Category Archives: Waterfalls

waterfalls

Train Ride to Seward, AK June 24, 2018

Sunday morning we returned the rental car to the Anchorage airport and met up with representatives of Holland America for our week long cruise from Alaska to Vancouver, British Columbia. But first we had to take a bus from the airport to the train station. Along the way we passed the Alaska Statehood Monument which marks President Eisenhower’s signing of Alaska as the 49th state on January 3, 1959. 20180624_115247

From the train station we took a train to Seward to board our cruise ship, the Noordam. IMG_20180624_122150

This blog will describe our five hour train ride through the beautiful Alaska countryside and Chugach National Forest. We had driven from Anchorage to Seward by car our first day in Alaska a week earlier see Seward, Alaska June 17, 2018. But seeing it by train felt entirely different, and much more relaxing than driving. Even better, Bill’s college friend Peter and his wife Beth had flown in from Florida to join us for the cruise. The train was comfortable with a table where the four of us could sit together and chat. IMG_2252DSCN6253

I will let pictures describe the train ride. Some of these pictures are courtesy of Beth. Many thanks Beth for sharing your pictures and allowing us to use them in the blog! 

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An Icefield or Glacier

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The Glaciers are Getting Closer

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The Eagle’s Nest

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A Zoomed View of a Pretty Glacier

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The Train Followed This River

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Another Pretty Glacier

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The Train Went Through Several Tunnels and Here we Circled Back Over Our Own Tracks

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This is a Pedestrian Bridge Built For Hikers to Go To The Glacier

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Our Train Comes Into View on the Many Curves

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This Is a School For Training Pilots to Land on Water

About 5:30 pm we arrived in Seward and boarded the ship for this second half of our exciting Alaska adventure. 

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Panoramic View of Seward Waterfront and Mountain Range

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Our First Glacier We See As We Sail South

Denali National Park June 21, 2018

Denali National Park and Preserve in Alaska, established in 1917, was high on our bucket list for this year.  Dall sheep are the symbol of the park because over-hunting of the sheep and efforts to save them is the reason the park was established.  Hunters were entering the park in large numbers to hunt game to feed gold miners and railroad workers. The park is six million acres of snow-capped peaks, multicolored tundra, clear lakes and rivers, alpine meadows and a multitude of wildlife. The crown jewel of the park is the 20,310 foot peak called Denali, the highest peak in North America. The peak has certainly undergone an identity crisis. It was named Denali in the Native American Athabascan language and means The Great One” or “The High One”.  IMG_2075

President McKinley, 25th President of the U.S. was assassinated in 1901. The park and mountain were named McKinley in his honor. In 1975 an effort was undertaken by the Alaska Board of Geographic Names to change the name back to Denali which is the name preferred by Alaskans.  The effort was blocked by representatives from McKinley’s home state of Ohio. In 1980 President Carter named it the Denali National Park and Preserve and increased the size from two million to six million acres. However he kept the name Mount McKinley.  In 2015 President Obama changed the name of the mountain back to Mount Denali. When talking of the peak today, most people simply say Denali.

With our excitement mounting we left Fairbanks and made the three hour drive to Denali National Park and Preserve.  It also happened to be June 21st, the longest day of the year, meaning we would have about 22 hours of daylight. Even once the sun set, it never got dark enough for streetlights to come on. 20180621_091812

We headed straight to the Visitors Center to check it out and see the movie. IMG_20180621_13471420180621_123232 Denali is not the easiest park to visit. In an effort to preserve the park wilderness as well as the wildlife, private vehicles are only allowed into the first 15 miles of the park or you can take a free park shuttle to this point. If you want to see anymore of the park you have to pay a rather large sum to take a Wilderness Tour. The first day we drove the 15 miles allowed, stopping at various viewpoints and hiking trails.  On the way out of the  park we saw a moose eating leaves from a tree. IMG_2082IMG_2085IMG_2078

We booked several months in advance the Tundra Wilderness Tour so the next day we had to be at the park by 6:30 A.M.  The tour was on a school bus and lasted for 8 hours. There is no food service in that area of the park so we had to take snacks and drinks.  Every 90 minutes we would take a bathroom break and stretch our legs. IMG_2106

There were no flush toilets during the day. Eight hours on a school bus and no flush toilets sounds miserable doesn’t it?  Actually we had a great day and really enjoyed it. We had an entertaining bus driver/guide. Everyone on the bus kept an eye out for wildlife. The bus was equipped with TV monitors.  IMG_2105When wildlife was spotted the driver stopped, and using a camcorder was able to zero in on the wildlife and display it on the TV monitors.  What a tremendous improvement over tours where animals are so far away they look like tiny dots. We saw fox clubs playing, a full grown fox, IMG_2144

many caribou  IMG_2117IMG_2125

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Caribou photographed from our TV monitor

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Caribou photographed from our TV monitor

 and jackrabbits, moose, many eagles, dall sheep,   

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Dall sheep photographed on our TV monitor

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This young fox or pup was photographed from our TV monitor

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These ravens appear to having a noisy argument

and towards the end of the day a grizzly bear and her two cubs (probably two years old). IMG_20180622_125138IMG_20180622_125156IMG_2160IMG_2178IMG_2181IMG_2188IMG_2222IMG_20180622_144318

At times the bus ride was scary as we traveled on narrow winding roads at the top of cliffs and had to pass other buses.  We couldn’t take a very good picture to show how scary it was but I found this postcard which shows the road and bus. IMG_2153IMG_2223

We stopped at the Toklat rest stop where there was a National Geographic Outpost.  Bill held caribou antlers on his head. He is such a good sport when I ask him to do things for pictures to entertain you! IMG_20180622_100455IMG_2121IMG_2132

We really really wanted to see the elusive Denali mountain.  Because of the location of the Alaska Range which gets cold, dry air from the north and warm, moist air from the ocean from the south, the two systems collide and cause clouds.  Denali is so high it is often hidden in the clouds. Less than 30% of people actually see Denali. The gift shops even have a T shirt that says something like “I am one of the 30%”.  Unfortunately the chances of seeing it decreases in the summer which is high tourist season. IMG_2102

So did we see it you are probably asking?  Not the first day and not the second day, not even during the Wilderness Tour.  At one point our bus driver looked in his rear view mirror and said he got a peek of the top.  He stopped the bus and everyone scrambled for their cameras. IMG_2191By this time the clouds had covered it again.

The next day we checked out of our hotel and turned the car towards Anchorage.  We still had not seen Denali. The day was cloudy and overcast. We were very disappointed.  Does the Denali story end there? Stay tuned for the next blog.

interesting Facts:

  • By area, Alaska has more than fifty percent of the national parkland in the United States.
  • More than 600,000 people visited the park in 2016, about 30% of visitors to Alaska.  Of the 600,000 visitors, about 59% of them take the bus trip deep into the park.
  • Archeological evidence shows people have lived in this region for over 13,000 years, migrating from Asia over the Bering Strait.   No permanent settlement sites have been found in Denali. For this reason it is believed the area was used for seasonal hunting only.
  • One sixth of Denali’s six million acres is covered by glaciers.  Most of Denali’s glaciers have receded in length and thickness over the past 60 years.
  • Today, America has almost 110 million acres of designated wilderness.
  • More than a thousand climbers attempt to climb Denali each year in April and May when high pressure systems keep storms away and before warmer temperatures causes the threat of avalanches to make it unsafe.  In good weather up to two thirds reach the top. During stormy or less than ideal conditions, only 40% make it.
  • Denali has been described as the “coldest mountain in the world” with record temperatures of -60 degrees F, wind gusts of 100 miles per hour, and wind chills down to -100 degrees F. Only one day in three is storm free.  Most of the world’s high mountains lie at lower latitudes. Denali is just 200 miles below the Arctic Circle. Even though Denali is not as high as Everest or Aconcagua, some say Denali is the hardest mountain to climb because of the Arctic conditions.
  • Alaska has warmed by three degrees F in the last 60 years.  Photos from the 1900’s show areas of open tundra.  Today they are now thick with shrubs and young spruce trees.  If this continues it is estimated the area may become a forest.

Fairbanks, Alaska June 20,2008

After busy days with long drives, we welcomed our two night stay in Fairbanks. Located near the geographic center of Alaska and in a lowland, the climate is very different and there are no snow covered mountains in view. While we were there the daytime highs were in the low 80’s and we were hot in the clothing we had packed. During this time of year Fairbanks has almost 24 hours of daylight. Fairbanks was once a gold rush and then a pipeline boom town, so it is called the “Golden Heart of Alaska “.  Today it is Alaska’s second largest city after Anchorage.  20180620_152551IMG_20180620_150905

Fairbanks is the farthest north from the equator we have ever traveled. We traveled North to 65°03’15.7″N 147°25’33.2″W or 4,500 miles from the equator for a few geocaches.

In 1902 gold was found in Fairbanks. A trading post was built and the gold rush began. Today there are still operating gold mines here. Panning for gold is a popular tourist activity. The area mines have world class mineral deposits as well as gold.

Today the economic base of Fairbanks comes from the Pipeline, military bases, mining and the University of Alaska, the country’s northernmost University. Fairbanks is the midpoint of the 800 mile Pipeline. Here is a picture of the “pig” which flows through the pipeline to clean it, much like a pipe cleaner. IMG_2065IMG_2063IMG_2062

While in Fairbanks we visited Pioneer Park where we saw the Golden Spike Train. President Warren G. Harding used this railroad car when he came to Alaska in the summer of 1923 to drive the golden spike signaling the completion of the Alaska Railroad from Fairbanks to Seward. Harding died in San Francisco before he could return to Washington, DC. 20180620_201332IMG_20180620_201356

A steam wheeler boat was in the middle of the Pioneer Park. IMG_20180620_201450

We saw two statues at the park to honor pioneers. 20180620_201923-EFFECTS20180620_202219

One evening we ate dinner at a restaurant along the Chena River and saw kayaker enjoying the water on this long day of sunlight. IMG_20180620_193334IMG_20180620_193321

After dinner we visited Antler Arch downtown.  It reminded us of the similar ones in Jackson Hole Wyoming. IMG_20180620_195910IMG_20180620_195830

Several Alaskans warned us earlier in the week that there wasn’t much to see or do in Fairbanks and it wasn’t very pretty. We would agree it is certainly not picturesque compared to most other Alaska towns. But when you think of Alaska, one of the places you think of is Fairbanks, so we had to go and check it out!  And we learned that the mosquitoes in Alaska are as fierce as everyone says,  We can see why people joke they are the state bird!

Alaska facts:

  • Alaska does not have counties, it has boroughs.
  • Alaska has 3 million lakes, 3,000 rivers, 1,800 Islands, 100,000 glaciers and 586,000 square miles of untamed wilderness. And don’t forget about nine national parks and preserves and two huge national forests with 66 million acres of undisturbed land.
  • Alaska is nicknamed “The Last Frontier” and “Land of the Midnight Sun”. The name Alaska comes from the Native American word “Alyeska” which means the Great Land.
  • The distances from Fairbanks to London is 1,100 miles closer than Fairbanks to Miami because of the curvature of the earth. 20180620_15014820180620_150208
  • The Trans-Alaska Pipeline can withstand earthquakes up to 8.5 on the Richter scale and temperatures as low as minus 80 F.
  • Alaska has one of the largest populations of bald eagles in the world.
  • In a deal nicknamed “Seward’s Folly”, Secretary of State William Seward bought Alaska from Russia for two cents per acre in 1867.
  • In 1880 gold and huge deposits of precious metals are discovered in Juneau and other places in Alaska.
  • Alaska governor Sarah Palin is first Republican woman to be on a presidential ticket with John McCain.

Valdez to Fairbanks, AK July 19, 2018

Day three in Alaska began the same way, with rain. And just like the day before, the weather quickly improved and it became a magnificent day.

After breakfast we found a geocache along the picturesque Valdez Harbor located on Prince William Sound and at the foot of the Chugach Mountains. We set out on another long drive from Valdez to Fairbanks. Three hundred and sixty-three miles to be exact. Another long but fun filled day. By the way, we used the famous and invaluable Alaska travel planner/guide called “The Milepost” constantly during our travels. We highly recommend it to anyone planning a trip to Alaska.

We set off once again on the Richardson Highway, and headed up and over Thompson Pass.  As we crossed we could see the tall snow poles which snowplows use as guides. They were as tall as light poles!  Fortunately this time we crossed without the fog. Along the way we passed many gorgeous waterfalls such as Bridal Veil and Horsetail Falls as we drove through Keystone Canyon. We can see why this area is nicknamed “The Land of Waterfalls “.  The road is also known as “The Adventure Corridor “.

Bridal Veil Falls drops 600 feet and Horsetail Falls is 330 feet. They were two of our favorite. IMG_1969IMG_1972IMG_1973IMG_197620180619_103734

Our next stop was at Worthington Glacier where we walked on a short paved trail to view the glacier. IMG_1980IMG_1983

We continued on to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. This park has the country’s largest glacial field and at 13.2 million acres is our largest national park.  Yes, larger than Denali or Yellowstone! In fact it would hold SIX Yellowstone parks! It holds nine of the 16 tallest peaks in the United States. Much of the park is wild, isolated and inaccessible by road so is best viewed by boat or air. It wasn’t established as a national park until 1980.  With a long drive ahead we stopped at the Visitors Center and saw their movie about the park and continued on. IMG_2008

We had great views of the Trans-Alaska pipeline from Valdez to Fairbanks. Oil was discovered in Prudhoe Bay, Alaska in 1968 and by 1977 the Pipeline had been laid. The pipeline carries oil 800 miles from Prudhoe Bay on the Arctic Ocean to the pipeline terminus at Port Valdez. We stopped at several viewing areas with informational boards during our drive.  We were surprised at how the pipeline snaked along, sometimes on the right, sometime on the left, sometime above ground and sometimes below. This mainly depends on soil conditions. Where the warm oil would cause the icy soil to thaw and erode, the pipeline is above ground. If the frozen ground is mostly well-drained gravel or solid rock and thawing is not a problem, the pipeline is underground. The zigzag pattern often seen, as well as Teflon coated crossbeams, allows for pipe expansion or contraction due to temperature changes or movement caused by such things as earthquakes. The pipeline has an earthquake detection system where ground accelerometers at pump stations measure earth movement. There are computers to identify and check important supports, valves and other such items after an earthquake.  The pipeline design was tested in November, 2002 by a large 7.9 earthquake. Today the Pipeline carries less oil but over the last 40 years has transported over 17 billion barrels of crude oil to Valdez. Oil output peaked in 1988 at two million barrels of oil per day. At this rate it took 4.5 days for the oil to travel from one end to another. After the Pipeline was completed in 1977, some workers settled in small towns around the state and the population grew. The infrastructure created by the Pipeline has had a lasting economic impact, especially due to the taxes levied on oil allowing the state of Alaska to increase spending on various needs. IMG_1995IMG_1991IMG_1993IMG_2000IMG_2001IMG_2002IMG_2012IMG_2016IMG_2031IMG_2032IMG_2035

As the day wore on we began to bemoan the fact that in our travels we had not seen any wildlife. Lo and behold shortly after that conversation, up ahead on the side of the road was a moose. Just casually sauntering along the roadway. We slowed down and he looked over at us as if to ask, “What are you looking at? “ I bet he was thinking, “Gee, more crazy tourists! “ IMG_2020IMG_2023IMG_2026IMG_2027IMG_2027

Delta Junction Visitor Center was a nice rest break for us later in the afternoon. This is the official end of the Alaska Highway. The Alaska Highway was finished during WW II  and begins in Dawson Creek, British Columbia and end 1,422 miles later in Delta Junction. In the early 1940’s soldiers built the road in below zero temperatures in winter and muddy conditions in the summer. Many African American troops worked on building the road. IMG_2040IMG_2039

Next was another view of the pipeline. This 1200 foot long section is suspended across the Tanana River between two towers. This is the second longest of 13 major bridges along the 800 mile length. IMG_2044

We also passed Eielson Air Force Base but they had signs along the highway prohibiting the taking of photographs. I did read in The Milepost that the runway there is 14,507 feet to accommodate B-36 aircraft and is the second longest runway in North America.

Our last stop of the day before reaching Fairbanks was at the town of North Pole (pop 2,117). Not THE North Pole but just a town. Supposedly the town was named North Pole in the hopes it would attract tourism and perhaps a toy manufacturer. It didn’t work. We stopped there for a quick dinner at a fast food restaurant where it appeared they had a large group of teenagers hanging out looking for trouble. I blame in part the restaurant manager who could control such behavior if he cared or tried. Anyway, all the light poles are decorated like candy canes. We took a picture of Santa Claus at Santa’s House. It would have been fun to stop by the post office and have something postmarked North Pole. I didn’t think about it at the time. Frankly the town with the candy cane light poles and street names like Rudolph, Santa Claus Lane and St Nicholas Drive seemed tacky and overdone. Anything for tourism and a buck. IMG_2046IMG_2047IMG_2048IMG_2051

We ended the day pulling into the hotel after another 12 hour day. Really tired and really happy with everything we had seen today. As we thought about the day, we reflected on the roads we easily traveled today and the conditions workers encountered as they built those roads over glaciers, icefields and danger of avalanches in sub zero weather and much less than ideal conditions.

Next up: Two days in Fairbanks

Valdez, Alaska June 18, 2018

On our second day in Alaska we woke up in Seward to the sound of rain. It was not an encouraging sign for our long drive from Seward to Valdez. We got dressed, had breakfast, loaded the car and headed out. We had an eight hour drive ahead of us, not counting stops for breaks, eating and sightseeing. Since we wanted to cram as much of Alaska into our time here as possible, and with two drivers it was doable.

We started back up the Seward Highway which is both an All-America Road and a National Scenic Byway. It is easy to see why. Driving back towards Anchorage we passed through tiny towns with names such as Moose Pass. We passed many signs warning to watch for moose but to our disappointment we never saw any wildlife.

The further we got from Seward the better the weather became so as we approached Anchorage the sky was clearing and the sun was peeking through. To our relief it looked like the weather was on our side. We stopped for lunch at an overpriced restaurant. By day two we realized all the food in Alaska is expensive. Groceries as well as restaurant food is much more costly than we are used to paying in the lower 48.

We turned onto the Glenn Highway and the further we drove the more beautiful the scenery became. This highway is also designated as a National Scenic Byway.  IMG_1943IMG_1909IMG_1911IMG_1914IMG_1907

We stopped at the Matanuska Glacier and State Recreation Site for a view of the Matanuska Glacier. It is so hard to capture the beauty in pictures! This glacier is the largest road accessible glacier in North America. It is four miles wide and extends for many miles back into the Chugach Mountains.  IMG_192520180618_161609

We passed over Eureka Summit, elevation 3,322 ft, the highest point on the Glenn Highway. Here we had unobstructed views of the Chugach Mountains, the tallest coastal mountains in North America. IMG_1919IMG_1916

We saw the Tazlina Glacier at Tazlina Lake and many of the hundreds of glaciers, large and small found in this area of Alaska. It is hard to look up and not see a glacier!  IMG_1937

As we approached our turn south to Valdez the Wrangell Mountains appeared.  IMG_1952IMG_1953IMG_1955

It was getting late afternoon by the time we turned off Glenn Highway onto Richardson Highway, the last leg of our drive to Valdez. Richardson Highway was the first road built in Alaska and ties together many different highways.  IMG_1957

It was hard to believe possible but the scenery became even more amazing with waterfalls after waterfalls cascading down from the mountains. Between the spring thaw and the recent rainfall, they were gorgeous. But along with the beauty came increasing clouds and the threat of more rain. Along the way we had our first glimpse of the great Alaskan Pipeline.  We will have more about the waterfalls and Pipeline in the next blog.

As we began the long climb up Thompson Pass, elevation 2,678 feet, the temperature dropped to 46 degrees and a heavy fog blanketed the summit.  In winter this pass averages fifty feet of snow and feeds the ice fields from which glaciers flow. We crept over the top and as we descended the fog began to clear as we dropped almost to sea level. It had been eleven hours since we left Seward and we were beginning to count the miles to Valdez.

As we entered Valdez (pop 4,000) the clouds again moved in and it became foggy with a light drizzle.  IMG_1961

Valdez is nicknamed “Switzerland of Alaska” because it is ringed by snow capped mountains. Like Seward, there really isn’t that much to do in Valdez unless you love to fish. Valdez is definitely more about the journey rather than the destination. After checking into the hotel we drove around the harbor but the fog definitely distracted from the beauty.  20180619_08195420180619_08190820180619_08201220180619_08015820180619_081826IMG_1967

Valdez was the jumping off point for the 1898 Alaska Gold Rush. Many residents arrived during the oil rush boom of the 1970’s and 1980’s but over the years the town has seen a decline in population. Since Valdez is the northernmost ice free port it is the end of the Alaska Pipeline.

Valdez has suffered two unfortunate events. On Good Friday, 1964, a 9.2 earthquake struck Alaska. It was the most powerful earthquake ever recorded in North America. Known as “The Great Alaska Earthquake, it killed 32 people in Valdez alone and the entire town was destroyed.  The town was then moved four miles from the end of the harbor to a safer location.

In 1989 Exxon Valdez dumped millions of gallons of crude oil into nearby Prince William Sound, the largest oil spill in North American history. Located just 25 miles from Valdez, the town became the center of clean up efforts.

Valdez is also known as the Snow Capital of Alaska. In the winter, with an average annual snowfall of 25 feet per year, houses can be buried up to their eaves in snow. It is usually early summer before the massive piles of snow heaped into mounds in the center of town is melted.

We were really tired so after looking around the town and eating dinner we fell into bed and fell asleep the minute our heads hit the pillows.

Next up: Waterfalls, the Alaska Pipeline and the drive to Fairbanks

Seward, Alaska June 17, 2018

On Sunday, June 17th we left the RV and car behind in Seattle and flew on Alaskan Airlines to Anchorage, Alaska.  20180617_110703

We had a nice three hour flight and as we approached Anchorage the views out the window were amazing, especially of the glaciers.  IMG_20180617_103703IMG_20180617_103722

We picked up a rental car at the airport and after a short stop for lunch at McDonald’s and the Anchorage Walmart for a cooler, ice and snacks. 20180617_122220

We drove two and a half hours on the Seward Highway to the small town of Seward (pop 2,700) The weather was very overcast with occasional drizzle which made it hard to take pictures. It is almost impossible to capture by camera the beauty of Alaska.  20180617_141806IMG_1866IMG_1858

Seward, an ice free port, is named for William Seward who negotiated the purchase of Alaska. In January, 1959 Alaska became our 49th state. Seward is best known for fishing, Kenai Fjords National Park which includes Exit Glacier, and is the town where many cruise ships depart on Alaskan cruises.  20180617_162039

It is also the home of the Alaska state flag. A seventh grader in Seward designed the flag consisting of seven stars of the Big Dipper and the North Star, a guiding light.  20180617_16264720180617_16245020180617_162441

We were very concerned about the weather because the weather forecast said the remnants of a tropical storm (yes, I said a tropical storm) was going to pass through the area the next two days with heavy rain and flooding.

We arrived at our lodge and my heart sank when the owner told us we were booked for a “rustic” cabin in the woods.  She repeated it was “rustic” but had heat, a microwave, small fridge and cable. I just had one question and my heart lifted when she confirmed it did have indoor plumbing. Whew!  What a relief. I neglected to get a picture of our little cabin in the woods but you can picture it since it truly was a little cabin in the woods. My heart sank again when we went in and it was COLD in there. But we turned on the two space heaters and the room warmed up quickly.  In fact at bedtime we turned off both heaters because it was too warm and we never got cold during the night. Our little cabin in the woods was well insulated!

After unpacking the car we headed out to visit the Kenai Fjords National Park Visitors Center located in Seward.  Most of the park is accessible only by a long boat cruise and if the weather had been better and we had more time we would have taken the tour. We had even contemplated booking it well in advance and staying in Seward two days instead of one, but since the weather was so bad with the approaching tropical storm, we were glad we hadn’t. The Visitors Center was very small and didn’t have a movie so we didn’t stay long.  IMG_1893

Next we drove a few miles to Exit Glacier located in the park and walked the short trail to the closest viewing area.  It was drizzling but we put on raincoats and didn’t let a little rain stop us.  IMG_1883IMG_1886

Exit Glacier is part of the Harding Icefield in the Kenai Mountains.  Even though it is one of the smaller of the Harding Icefield glaciers, it is a major attraction in Kenai Fjords National Park and one of the most visited because of its easy accessibility.  IMG_1892IMG_1899IMG_1903IMG_1902

It is named Exit Glacier because it was the exit for the first recorded crossing of the Harding Icefield in 1968.  Whether one believes in global warming and climate change or not, the recession of the glacier is evident. As we walked along the trail, dates along the way indicated where the glacier once reached. For example one date was 1926, the year my mother was born. Exit Glacier has retreated about a mile since 1926.  The glacier retreated approximately 187 feet from 2013 to 2014. Needless to say park rangers are monitoring the glacier. A park ranger told us as the glacier recedes more and more, the park is struggling to find ways to continue to keep the glacier accessible to the public by adding more boardwalks and trails.

After dinner we returned to the cabin and went to bed early. This time of year in Alaska the days are approximately twenty hours of sunlight and four hours of night. When we went to bed it felt so strange because it was still light outside. During the night the tropical storm began to pass through and we were awakened throughout the night by heavy rain and wind. But our little cabin in the woods kept us warm and dry.

Next up: Valdez, Alaska

Woodland, WA June 3, 2018

After two wonderful weeks at Seaside, Oregon we headed northeast and crossed over Columbia River into Washington state.  20180603_16050120180603_16053420180603_160621We settled into a private campground in the town of Woodland. We loved our campsite with a front row view of the Columbia River.  During our week-long stay we really enjoyed watching the ships, boats and tugs sailing between Portland and the Pacific Ocean. 

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This boat is being towed by four togs.

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This is an auto carrier that was coming from San Francisco to Portland

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This Navy ship is on the way to Fleet Week at Portland

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Unfortunately the day after our arrival Bill came down with a very bad stomach virus so several days there were spent recovering.

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Mount Hood in Oregon

Later in the week we took a drive along the Historic Columbia River Highway where we passed back into Oregon and visited two waterfalls.  

First up was the popular Multnomah Falls, which at 620 feet is the tallest waterfall in Oregon. IMG_20180606_114214IMG_20180606_113934IMG_20180606_115255

We last visited here in 2014. We had hoped to hike to the bridge you see in the picture.  We were very disappointed to learn the trail to the bridge has been closed due to severe damage from wildfires last year. The wildfires that did millions of dollars in damage was caused by a child playing with firecrackers.  We asked a couple people when the trail and bridge would be reopened. One person said a couple weeks and another said a few years!

From there we drove to Latourell Falls.  We hiked up a short but very steep trail to a view of this lovely 250 foot waterfall. IMG_20180606_132306IMG_20180606_131340-EFFECTSIMG_20180606_131718

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Mount Adams in Washington

On the way home we stopped at The Crown Point Vista House with a fabulous view 733 feet above the Columbia River.  The Vista House is a museum of the Columbia River area and a memorial to Oregon pioneers. IMG_20180606_133817IMG_20180606_135744

Next stop:  Chehalis, WA

Pacific City, Oregon May 16, 2018

We left Salem and headed west toward the Oregon coast on narrow, winding two lane roads for most of the two hour drive. We drove through the Siuslaw National Forest including 5 one lane bridges.

We arrived at our campground in Pacific City (pop 1,035) and found a nice site for a four night stay. We couldn’t see or hear the waves but we were within walking distance of the beach and the campground provided a nice walking trail to the beach. IMG_1851IMG_1855

We saw signs throughout the campground warning of bear activity but never saw any, just several adorable bunnies. 20180517_142331IMG_20180518_105943

They must be used to people because they were totally unafraid of us taking pictures but we respected the fact they were not pets and didn’t get too close.

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With the hope that the weather would improve the next day we stayed home for the first day and I did laundry. The better weather advertised by the Weather Channel never materialized and as you can see by the pictures the weather was cloudy, windy and chilly during our entire stay with heavy cloud and fog cover. With only two days left to explore, we had to ignore the weather, bundle up and set off exploring this part of the Oregon coast. IMG_1775IMG_1778IMG_1780

We had a long list of things to see so we headed north up the coast. Sometimes the road took us right along the coast and sometimes we were more inland. Not to whine, sometimes we would stop at an ocean overlook and I would just imagine how beautiful this would look on a bright, sunny day. IMG_20180516_143634IMG_1787IMG_1792IMG_1840IMG_1843

We did lots of hiking and geocaching both days. We loved seeing the huge rocks in the ocean, so typical of the Pacific Coast. We especially liked the rocks with windows and arches eroded from the waves and wind. IMG_1796

You can see that even though the population in these coastal cities is small, they appear congested as people want to build houses close to the water. Who wouldn’t with those amazing views! IMG_20180518_155151

We drove past the Tillamook Cheese Factory where they give tours to more than 1.3 million people a year but didn’t take the time to stop. We did purchase some Tillamook ice cream at the local Safeway which was really really good.

Highlights of our two drives were:

  • The Octopus Tree which measures 46 feet in diameter and has no central trunk. Instead the limbs extend horizontally from the base as much as 16 feet before turning upward. It is 105 feet tall and is estimated to be 250 to 300 years old. The cause for the octopus shape is still being debated. Was it caused by natural forces or by Native Americans. What do you think? 20180518_162638IMG_1789
  • This Big Spruce, a Sitka spruce, was designated the state champion in 2008 for being the largest of the species in Oregon. It is 144 feet tall, 48 feet in circumference, fifteen and a half feet in diameter and is estimated to be an amazing 750 to 800 years old! IMG_20180518_172817
  • The Cape Meares Lighthouse which was lit in 1890 and at 38 feet is the shortest lighthouse on the Oregon coast. The light beam is an alternating red and white light as it turns which distinguishes it from other lighthouses. 20180518_164356
  • While at the lighthouse we saw a mother whale and her calf playing in the water for quite awhile, a real highlight for us! IMG_1808IMG_1810 The above picture is an animated collage of the two whales.
  • Munson Falls, which at 319 feet is the highest on the Oregon coast. IMG_1848

Over the two days we loved our hikes through the forest with the tree limbs covered in moss giving the area a very eerie feeling. IMG_1846

As we drove along the Three Capes Scenic Loop we found geocaches overlooking the ocean along with views of kayakers on waterways where sand spits separated the ocean from the bays. IMG_20180519_144702

Of particular note is the Tillamook Bay, an “estuary of national significance”, one of only twenty in the country. Five rivers flow into the bay which then mixes with the salty waters of the Pacific. IMG_1782

Bill was happy to find a geocache at the entrance to a Boy Scout Camp called Camp Meriwether and Camp Clark. IMG_20180519_124823

Another geocache took us to the marker for Captain Robert Gray, the first American to circumnavigate the globe. IMG_1784

The area is known for fresh delicious seafood and Bill had a delicious halibut lunch at a small food truck along the water.

As you can see cars are allowed to drive on the beach. At one county park we found the dunes crowded with ATV vehicles. IMG_20180516_144647IMG_20180519_132433

Despite the weather we enjoyed our time along the section of the Oregon coast.

Next stop:  Seaside, Oregon for hopefully sunny weather

Salem, Oregon May 9, 2018

After leaving Grants Pass our initial plan was to spend four nights in Eugene and three nights in Salem.  The day before our departure we decided to skip Eugene and go straight to Salem, the state capital. It made for a longer than usual travel day but the idea of spending nine nights in one spot without having to move really appealed to us. One of the great things about not having reservations is the ability to change plans at the last minute which we have done several times already this year.

We pulled into the Salem Elks Lodge and were directed into a long full hookup site.  Really nice. Along with sightseeing, the long stay gave us a chance to get labwork done, order several things we needed through Amazon, make some dental appointments and do some planning, cleaning and maintenance on the RV. Somehow we managed to get a chip in the RV windshield so one day we had Safelite come out and repair the chip.

On Friday we drove three miles to the Oregon state capitol building to continue our goal of visiting all the state capitol buildings in the country. We were given a tour by an excellent tour guide. The building was constructed from 1936-1938 and is the third capitol building after the first two were both destroyed by fire. It is an example of Modernistic architecture and looks very different from most state capitol which are usually modeled after the U. S. capitol. Only four other states have Art Deco state capitols – – Alaska, Louisiana, Nebraska and North Dakota. The base is granite and on top is the 23 foot bronze statue gilded in gold leaf of a pioneer. IMG_20180511_131850IMG_20180511_132000IMG_20180511_132028

The pioneer faces north and looks west. IMG_20180511_142730IMG_20180511_142801

Inside the capitol building is a dome with 33 stars painted on the ceiling to recognize that Oregon was the 33rd state admitted to the Union in 1859 after first becoming a territory in 1848. IMG_20180511_132902

The paintings and sculptures in the capitol focused on Euro-European settlement. 

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Meriwether Lewis and William Clark with Party at Celilo Falls on their way to the Pacific, 1805

 

We visited the Senate and House Galleries where around the top of both rooms are the names of 158 people significant to the history of Oregon including Thomas Jefferson, Meriwether Lewis, William Clark, Sacajawea, Washington Irving, John Quincy Adams, and James Polk. IMG_20180511_141019IMG_20180511_134807IMG_20180511_141010

In 1843 the people of Oregon territory drew a line in the dirt and the frontiersmen stepped on one side or the other. One side was to remain British and the other to become part of the United States. We know which side won and the concept of a government with open democratic voting began in Oregon.

The Oregon state seal has 33 stars, an eagle with an olive branch and arrows symbolizing peace through strength. Two ships, one American arriving and one British ship leaving symbolize Oregon becoming part of the United States. Oregon’s economy is symbolized with timber, grain, pickax and plow. The covered wagon symbolizes pioneers on the Oregon Trail and the mountains and elk represent Oregon’s natural environment. The state seal is somewhat in the shape of a heart because it became a state on February 14, 1859.  One of the trees growing on the capitol grounds came from a seedling which went to the moon and back! IMG_20180511_140121

We found time to do some geocaching, including finding some very unusual ones! 20180513_140229IMG_20180513_153604

The trees, bushes and flowers in Oregon are just beautiful this time of year. 20180511_131837

We passed several fields of red clover as well as Christmas tree farms. 20180513_141509IMG_20180514_142854

Toward the end of our stay in Salem we drove thirty miles east to Silver Falls State Park, the largest state park in Oregon. It became a state park in 1935 and we enjoyed the trails thanks to the work of 200 CCC workers and skilled workers of the Works Projects Administration. IMG_20180514_142959IMG_20180514_110846We spent the day hiking to several beautiful waterfalls, enjoying the lush environment which included moss covered trees. Two trails even took us behind the waterfalls for a unique view.  We hope to return someday for more hiking.

We visited the South Falls first at 177 feet tall. IMG_20180514_114654IMG_20180514_114926IMG_20180514_115313IMG_20180514_115503IMG_20180514_115705IMG_20180514_123345

The Upper North falls is 65 feet. IMG_20180514_131140IMG_20180514_131809IMG_20180514_135950

We had time for only one more of the ten waterfalls – North Falls at 136 feet. IMG_20180514_133412IMG_20180514_133936IMG_20180514_134400IMG_20180514_135215IMG_20180514_133915IMG_20180514_140410

Next up we head west to spend some time along the Oregon coast.

Below is a link to a waterfall video we made, enjoy the sound of the falling water. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5VRzbF8iA4

Paradise & Weed, CA APR 26, 2018

We left Nicolaus and made the drive north to Paradise, CA. We were excited to visit Paradise because we were going to visit Sara, a former coworker of mine from my teaching days in Charlottesville, VA.  Sara and I last saw each other twelve years ago. IMG_20180427_120221

The Elks Lodge was almost full and was a nice place to stay with full hookup sites. After settling in we met Sara and her family to attend Sara’s daughter’s violin recital. Lucy played ten pieces she had memorized.  She is so talented and it was amazing for someone her age to memorize so many pieces. IMG_20180426_191216

The next day we went on a hike on Table Mountain in nearby Oroville. It was a great day that included waterfalls, beautiful wildflowers and even some kite flying! IMG_20180427_112838IMG_20180427_122309

We finished the day at Sara’s house where her husband Ross showed us his excellent barbecuing skills! One of the many wonderful thing about this lifestyle is being able to catch up with dear friends around the country. Thank you so much Sara, Ross, John, Lucy, Oliver and Franki! We can’t wait to see you again down the road! IMG_20180427_120032

Our next stop as we continued north was Weed, CA.  After almost three months in California, this was our last stop before crossing over into Oregon. As we traveled north we were excited to see Mount Shasta in the distance. 20180501_110027

We were last in Weed in the fall of 2014. A week after we left, a catastrophic wildfire burned hundreds of acres and destroyed more than 150 structures including 140 homes, two churches, the library and community center. But most important, no lives were lost. It has been a long recovery for the town and we were told many people took the insurance money and left instead of rebuilding.

We settled into our campsite with an amazing view of Mount Shasta, elevation 14,179 feet. IMG_20180501_150039

Last time we were here was in September and most of the snow on Mount Shasta had melted. This time was very different. Mount Shasta has seven named glaciers. IMG_1768

One day we drove up Mount Shasta but discovered the upper road was still blocked  by snow. We still managed to go up almost 7,000 feet. Last time we were here we were able to drive all the way up to the Alpine Lodge. IMG_1765IMG_1767

We stopped throughout the day to find many geocaches.  One geocache took us to the headwaters of the Sacramento River.  A really neat and unexpected place which reminded us of the headwaters of the Mississippi River we visited last summer at Itasca State Park in Minnesota. IMG_20180502_14291220180502_142923IMG_20180502_142815

At one point on a beautiful pedestrian bridge a man stopped to ask Bill if he needed any help since Bill appeared to be searching for something lost. Bill decided to take the opportunity to introduce him to geocaching. He thought it was pretty cool. IMG_1770IMG_177220180502_155325

Next stop: Grants Pass, Oregon