Category Archives: State Park

State Park visited or camped here

Abilene, KS August 18, 2017

From Topeka we headed west to Milford Lake State Park in Milford, Kansas.  Milford Lake is the largest lake in Kansas made from the 16,000 acre Milford Reservoir, the largest reservoir in Kansas. IMG_20170817_121647 

One day we made the short drive to Abilene to visit the Dwight D. Eisenhower Presidential Library, Museum and Boyhood Home.  

Eisenhower is the 34th President and the only five star general to ever be elected President.IMG_20170817_154143IMG_20170817_154253

Located on a twenty-two acre site, the Eisenhower Presidential Library and Museum is made up of five buildings all within close walking distance.  Within the site:

  • twenty-six million pages of historical records and papers
  • 335,000 still photographs
  • 768,000 feet of original motion picture film
  • 70,000 artifacts

20170817_125937First we stopped by the Visitors Center and saw a twenty-five minute film on his life.  Next we visited his boyhood home.  Even though he was born in Denison, Texas in 1890, he always considered Abilene his hometown since his family moved there when he was a year and a half old.  He was one of seven sons.  All the boys were called “Ike”, an abbreviation of their last  name. By World War II, only Dwight still used the nickname.  

In the parlor of his boyhood home sits the radio the Eisenhower boys bought their mother so she could keep up with the news of the war. 20170817_133545 

The Boyhood Home was opened to the public in 1947.  The Eisenhower family lived here from 1898 until his mother died in 1946.  His parents were deeply religious and belonged to the River Brethren, a Mennonite sect with Dutch Pennsylvania origins.  The family often spent time reading aloud from the Bible.  His mother was a pacifist who was very saddened to learn  Dwight wanted to enter the military.  Growing up on the farm in Abilene his parents taught Ike humility, the value of hard work, respect for learning, discipline and spiritual devotion. Dwight’s mother sometimes had to take history books away from him so he would pay attention to his other subjects in school. IMG_20170817_133238 

His childhood heroes were Hannibal, George Washington and Robert E. Lee.  In 1909 the high school yearbook predicted that Dwight would become a history professor at Yale and his brother Edgar would be President of the United States.  Both his parents attended a small college and four of the sons graduated from college.  Every President since Eisenhower has had a college education.IMG_20170817_144727

Next we visited the museum, dedicated in 1954.  This museum was noticeably different from the previous Presidential museums we have visited.  Ten percent was dedicated to cowboy and pioneer life in old Abilene (Chisholm Trail), fifty-five percent to World War II and his military career and about thirty-five percent to his personal life and Presidency.  It is one of the very few Presidential Library and Museums we have been to without a replica of the Oval Office.20170817_134723a20170817_134756

Abilene was originally founded in 1856 and called Mud Creek, the town was renamed Abilene in 1860 after a Bible passage in the Book of Luke. The American style cowboy boot is believed to have started in Abilene when bootmaker Thomas C. McInerny made a pointed toe boot with a high heel that would stay in the saddle.  It replaced the Confederate Cavalry boot.  McInerny advertised his boots in the late 1860’s, probably making his shop the first to produce the modern cowboy boot in America. At one point McInerny employed fifteen men in his shop.  

Eisenhower enjoyed reading westerns and watching western  TV shows and movies.  He loved receiving western theme gifts.  On display is a pair of cowboy boots specially made for him.  Notice the capitol building on them.  He was a cattleman on his farm in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania where he raised Angus cattle (see our previous post of October 1, 2016).20170817_135101  

Eisenhower accomplishments:

  • Graduate of the United States Military Academy and a professional soldier.  Actually he had wanted to attend the Naval Academy at Annapolis, Maryland but at age twenty was too young to enlist there.  
  • At the Military Academy he was more interested in sports than academics. His final class standing was 61st in grades and 125th in demerits.20170817_135345
  • Served as Commander-in-Chief of Allied Forces in Europe during WWIIIMG_20170817_143723IMG_20170817_14424420170817_143510
  • Military governor of the American zone of occupation in Germany
  • Chief of Staff of the U.S. Army
  • Supreme Commander of NATO

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    Three Display Cases Contained His Metals and Awards

  • President of Columbia University
  • 34th President of the United States.  He was the first Republican president since Herbert Hoover left office in 1933.IMG_20170817_144727  
  • He began his presidential address with a prayer which is mounted on the wall of the chapel where he is buried.IMG_20170817_155518
  • Initiated the country’s first civil rights legislation since post-Civil War Reconstruction
  • Ordered U.S. Army troops to enforce the integration of Central High School in Little Rock, Arkansas, a highly controversial decisionIMG_20170817_152509
  • Construction of the Interstate Highway System which contributed to economic expansion and improved daily lives of AmericansIMG_20170817_151255IMG_20170817_15123520170817_150819
  • His diplomacy kept the “Cold War” cold.  
    • Under Eisenhower’s administration the North Korean and Chinese believed nuclear weapons would be used if necessary.  The two Koreas signed a truce agreement in 1953.  
    • Between 1955 and 1961 the U.S. provided over $1 billion in weapons, financial aid and advisors to the South Vietnamese government, but no military troops.  
    • During the Geneva Summit Eisenhower met with leaders of Great Britain, France and the Soviet Union.  The “Spirit of Geneva” that resulted in the meeting provided hope that a post-Stalin Russia would be less hostile to the United States.  
    • President Eisenhower recognized Castro’s threat in Cuba and approved a covert plan to replace the Castro regime.  His plan continued after he left office.  
  • Created Department of Health, Education and Welfare which Congress had refused under Roosevelt and Truman.  Through HEW, he extended Social Security benefits to previously ineligible retirees.  He pushed vocational rehabilitation to provide assistance to physically disabled people and also increased the minimum wage by 33 percent.
  • Instituted the National Defense Education Act authorizing $1 billion in loans and grants over seven years for college students majoring in science, math or foreign languages.  This was in response to Russia’s launching of Sputnik.
  • Supported nationwide distribution of the polio vaccine and appropriated $28 million to inoculate those who could not afford it.  
  • Convinced Congress to accept a larger public housing program because of a decline in urban cities due to middle class movement to the suburbs, leaving behind mostly poor, black Americans.
  • In response to Sputnik and at Eisenhower’s urging, Congress passed the National Aeronautics and Space Act in July, 1958, creating NASA.20170817_151104
  • Today many people view the technology revolution and breakthrough in satellites, atomic energy and jet airliners to be one of the most lasting accomplishments of the Eisenhower presidency.  He approved the development of reconnaissance aircraft and satellites to provide better technical information about Soviet military efforts.IMG_20170817_151535

Eisenhower suffered a serious heart attack in 1955 but agreed to run for a second term in 1956.  He won re-election against Adlai Stevenson by the largest landslide in history, carrying 41 out of 48 states.  He suffered a stroke in 1957 that left his speech slightly impaired from then on.20170817_135506IMG_20170817_152408IMG_20170817_153106IMG_20170817_152825IMG_20170817_140617

The end of the Eisenhower presidency and the beginning of Kennedy’s signified the end of one era and the beginning of another in many ways.  Eisenhower was the last president born in the nineteenth century, Kennedy the first born in the twentieth.  At that time Eisenhower was the oldest man ever elected president, Kennedy the youngest.  Leaders around the world knew Eisenhower from his leadership roles for over twenty years.  Many foreign heads of state barely knew Kennedy.IMG_20170817_153511

Eisenhower once wrote that he admired above all others three presidents – Washington, Lincoln and Theodore Roosevelt.

Interestingly, a ranking of presidents in 1965 placed Eisenhower well below average.  Over the years as more became known about his presidency, by the year 2000, he was ranked in the top ten. As part of C-SPAN’s third Historians Survey of Presidential Leadership in 2017, almost 100 historians and biographers rated him as fifth best President.IMG_20170817_141948

We finished our visit by stopping by the Place of Meditation, a chapel where President Eisenhower, Mamie and their son Doud are buried.  Doud died at the age of three of scarlet fever.  Eisenhower said his son’s death was “the greatest disappointment and disaster in my life”.IMG_20170817_155024IMG_20170817_155306

Eisenhower passed away in 1969 and was brought home to Abilene where he was buried in a regulation U.S. army casket.

I think you can learn a lot by reading a person’s quotes, or what others say about him.IMG_20170817_151421

Quotes by and about Eisenhower:

  • “The final battle against intolerance is to be fought – not in the chambers of any legislature – but in the hearts of men”. Campaign speech, 1956
  • “Always try to associate yourself closely with and learn as much as you can from those who know more than you, who do better than you, who see more clearly than you.  Apart from the rewards of friendship, the association might pay off at some unforeseen time – that is only an accidental byproduct.  The important thing is that the learning will make you a better person”.
  • “Desire may sometimes have to give way to a conviction of duty”.  (Eisenhower was reluctant to run for president, calling the idea absurd.  In 1945 President Truman told Eisenhower he would support him for President in 1948, even joking he would agree to be Vice-President.  In 1952 when leading Republican candidate Senator Robert A. Taft refused to support the United States providing troops to NATO, Eisenhower agreed to run.  By 1952, an estimated eighteen million American homes owned a television set, making it the first televised campaign.IMG_20170817_152703IMG_20170817_145730
  • “God help the nation when it has a President who doesn’t know as much about the military as I do.”
  • “Ike could be reelected even if dead.”   columnist Walter Lippmann on Eisenhower’s possible third term as president even though he was constitutionally prevented from running for a third term.  Eisenhower had an average approval rating of 64%.
  • “My principal political disappointment was the defeat of Dick Nixon in 1960.”
  • “There is no victory in any war, except through our imagination, through our dedication, and through our work to avoid it.”
  • “One of my major regrets is that as we left the White House I had to admit to little success in making progress in global disarmament or in reducing the bitterness of the East-West struggle.  But though, in this, I suffered my greatest disappointment, it has not destroyed my faith that in the next generation, the next century, the next millennium, these things will come to pass.”
  • “If all that Americans want is security, they can go to prison.”
  • “I wish to say a word directly to our young people.  It will soon be your country to run, and you should be interested and personally involved.”
  • “America will be a lonely land without him.  But America will always be a better nation – stronger, safer, more conscious of its heritage, more certain of its destiny – because Ike was with us when America needed him.” Lyndon Baines Johnson
  • “He was a general who truly hated war, but who hated the Nazis more.  He was the President who made a peace and kept the peace and this provided the conditions that made it possible for the American people to exercise their rights to pursue happiness.” Stephen E. Ambrose

Papillion, NE July 26, 2017

Under rainy skies we left Iowa and entered Nebraska.  We prefer to not travel in the rain but the area really needed it.  We reached our campsite at Walnut Creek Lake Recreation Area in the city of Papillion outside of Omaha and set up before the really heavy rain began to fall.  It would be the last rain we would see for awhile.  It was very hot in Iowa and the heat continued in Nebraska.  Papillion was named by French settlers after its beautiful butterflies.  Walnut Creek Lake Recreation Area is located on a 150 acre reservoir.  They do not accept reservations so we were very glad to find an available spot with a view of the water.

On Thursday we made the short drive into Omaha, population 450,000.  Our first stop was the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail – Headquarters located inside the National Park Service’s Midwest Regional Office.  

Nearby was the Bob Kerrey Pedestrian Bridge, completed in 2008 and spanning the Missouri River which Lewis, Clark and the Corps of Discovery navigated over 200 years ago.  The neat thing about this bridge is that it is the longest pedestrian bridge to link two states.IMG_20170727_105411IMG_20170727_110242

When walking across the bridge we started in Nebraska and crossed into Iowa about midway.  The 3,000 foot cable stay bridge connects Omaha, Nebraska and Council Bluffs, Iowa.  Cables suspend the bridge sixty feet above the river and the curved shape symbolizes the meandering Missouri River.IMG_20170727_110147IMG_20170727_110329

Next we drove downtown to the Pioneer Courage Park with amazing bronze and stainless steel sculptures depicting pioneer families and westward expansion.IMG_20170727_115022IMG_20170727_115218IMG_20170727_115408IMG_20170727_115521IMG_20170727_115910

Omaha is the home of the College World Series so we drove by TD Ameritrade Park. My hometown University of Virginia baseball team won the World Series here in 2015.IMG_20170727_113122IMG_20170727_113638

Nearby we visited the President Gerald R. Ford Birthsite and Gardens.  The house burned to the ground so there is now a nice portico that resembles the West Wing and a rose garden dedicated to Betty Ford.  The 38th President was born as Leslie King, Jr.  He moved with his mother to Grand Rapids, Michigan.  He was adopted by his stepfather and took the name Gerald R. Ford.IMG_20170727_121644IMG_20170727_122223

Omaha is also the home of Warren Buffet.  We rode by his home and office building.  His home is surprisingly small for such a wealthy man. IMG_20170727_131626IMG_20170727_131941 

IMG_20170727_134609Of course we had to shop at the Nebraska Furniture Mart, the largest home furnishing store in North America.  It has 420,000 square feet of retail space spread over 77 acres and several buildings. It was founded in 1937 by Mrs. B who sold a majority interest in the company to Warren Buffet in a handshake deal in 1983.  Now you are probably wondering why people who live in an RV would take the time to visit a furniture mart.  Besides furniture they also have flooring, appliances and electronics.  They also have locations in Iowa, Kansas and Texas.  One noticeable thing to us was how quick and helpful the employees were. If you stopped to look at the store map or looked the least bit confused, someone was right there to help you with a friendly smile and cheerful demeanor.

Next we toured the Mormon Trail Center at Historic Winter Quarters which is the location of the Mormons’ main settlement on the Missouri River.  Historical exhibits memoralized the hardships the pioneers faced, especially during the winter of 1846-47.IMG_20170727_143633IMG_20170727_150009

We finished the day at Kenefick Park where we saw “two of the greatest locomotives ever to power Union Pacific Railroad”: the Union Pacific Big Boy #4023 and the Union Pacific Centennial #6900.  We climbed sixty steps from the parking lot to where the locomotives sit high on a hilltop visible from the interstate.IMG_20170727_155542IMG_20170727_155606IMG_20170727_155243IMG_20170727_160256IMG_20170727_160458IMG_20170727_160542

IMG_20170728_142555On Friday we visited the Strategic Air Command (SAC) and Aerospace Museum in nearby Ashland.  It has the largest collection of Cold War aircraft including exhibits of spy planes, fighter jets including a F-101B Voodoo jet fighter, the FB111A Aardvark medium range bomber, the rare XF-85 Goblin fighter escort (one of only two ever built), helicopters, rockets, missiles, spacecraft, a Space Shuttle Atlantis training simulator and other airplanes. SAC was disestablished in 1992. SAC was responsible for control of two of the three components of the U.S. military’s nuclear strike forces.IMG_20170728_135821IMG_20170728_135831IMG_20170728_143604IMG_20170728_145055IMG_20170728_151017

This Link Aircraft Simulator was the very first simulator used to train pilots.
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IMG_20170728_151504Bill worked early in his career on a Weapons System Simulator (fighter jet) for this Phantom II jet by McDonnell Douglas.
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There is an exhibit on what was discovered about the horrors of World War II.IMG_20170728_153551IMG_20170728_153528IMG_20170728_153433
Two of the most famous planes used for reconnaissance is the U-2 and SR-71.IMG_20170728_162632IMG_20170728_165124
IMG_20170728_165042On Saturday we had a nice dinner with Bill’s cousin Jimmie who lives in Papillion.

Next stop: Lincoln, Nebraska

Nebraska Facts:

  • Nebraska has nearly 100,000 miles of roads.
  • Its nickname is the Cornhusker State and it is celebrating 150 years of statehood in 2017.
  • Omaha and Lincoln are the two largest cities.
  • Lewis, Clark and the Corps of Discovery navigated the Missouri River on their quest to find the Northwest Passage.  They averaged 10-12 miles a day as they moved upriver in a 55 foot long keelboat and two pirogues.  They were in the Omaha area in July and August of 1804.

Des Moines IA July 24, 2017

After a great Winnebago rally we left Forest City on Sunday and headed to Des Moines, Iowa’s state capital.  Along the way we continued to see corn, silos and wind turbines.  The corn was still not quite as high as an elephant’s eye, but it did seem to be crying out for rain.  Everything is so dry!20170723_120544

Our campground was the Walnut Woods State Park in West Des Moines.  The park has the largest natural stand of black walnut trees in North America.  There were also signs forbidding the collection of black walnuts in the park.

Our main reason for coming here was to visit Des Moines.  On Monday we made the short drive into the city.  The California Gold Rush once brought people here who stayed rather than continuing west.  The state capital was moved here from Iowa City in 1857.  Much of the economic and political action revolves around agriculture and the grain market.IMG_20170724_113345

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Cornerstone of the Capitol Building

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Our first stop was the state capitol building and it is one of the prettiest we have visited.  We had read that it was beautiful and it did not disappoint!  The capitol building is located on a hill surrounded by a 160 acre park with several monuments.

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Unusual to Allow Weapons inside the Capitol Building

The main dome is covered with 23 carat gold leaf and is flanked by four smaller domes.  The gold leaf covering the dome is so thin that 250,000 sheets pressed together would only measure one inch thick.  The building was begun in 1871 and completed in 1886.IMG_20170724_112418IMG_20170724_111720IMG_20170724_11195020170724_112918

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Can you find Diane?

The main dome, rising 275 feet above the Capitol grounds, is currently undergoing renovation and is covered with scaffolding.  

The interior is made of 29 types of marble and has ornately decorated ceilings and corridors as well as beautiful paintings and statues.IMG_20170724_111840IMG_20170724_112629IMG_20170724_113838IMG_20170724_114034IMG_20170724_114246

There is a scale model of the battleship Iowa which is currently docked in the Port of Los Angeles.  Bill toured the battleship in 2014 (see that blog here) when we were out west.  One of the battleship’s two bells, weighing 1,000 pounds is also on display.20170724_11504720170724_114509

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This is the Iowa State Flag

The capitol building had a glass display case of dolls representing all of the Iowa first ladies in their inaugural gowns.

We could have taken a guided tour but we picked up a guide pamphlet and did our own self guided tour.  The lady at the information desk told us to be sure and go into the law library.  It is not something we probably would have thought to visit but we sure were glad we did.  It was amazing with iron grillwork circular staircases at each end of the library.   Absolutely beautiful!

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Can you find Bill?

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We walked around the grounds and saw a small replica of the Statue of Liberty and the Liberty Bell.  Did you know each capital city in the United States has a replica of the Liberty Bell somewhere in their city?IMG_20170724_121527IMG_20170724_122127

Next: John Wayne’s hometown Winterset IA

Federal Dam, MN June 29, 2017

We left Baudette under sunny skies and warmer temperatures and headed south.  Baudette was the northernmost campground location for our 2017 summer travels.

We talked about stopping in Bemidji to see the huge statue of Paul Bunyan and his Blue Ox.  Remember, legend has it that Blue Ox stomping through Minnesota is what caused the 10,000+ lakes to form.  20170701_124032We decided it wasn’t worth taking the RV towing the car off our route into Bemidji just to see a couple statues.  As luck would have it a bridge was out and we had to take a detour.  The detour took us right past the Bunyan and Blue Ox statues so I snapped a picture out of the window of the RV as we drove past.  20170629_115757We also noticed a sign saying that Bemidji was the first city on the Mississippi. 20170629_120000The Mississippi River is still narrow here approximately thirty miles from the Mississippi Headwaters.20170629_115833

We arrived at Leech Lake Recreation Area – Corps of Engineers Park, located in the very small city of Federal Dam MN.  Bill booked far enough ahead to get one of the few full hook up sites.  Leech Lake is Minnesota’s third largest inland lake and is located in the Chippewa National Forest.  One of three area Ojibwe Indian reservations is located at Leech Lake.IMG_20170630_211534IMG_20170630_211135IMG_20170630_211153

I was needing to do laundry and I was thrilled to find the campground had a laundry facility with what looked like new washers and dryers.  The best part was the washers and dryers were free!

IMG_20170701_114544While staying at Leech Lake we drove an hour to Itasca State Park near Park Rapids.  The park was established in 1891, making it Minnesota’s first state park.  It is the second oldest state park in the United States with only Niagara Falls State Park being older.IMG_20170701_134548

The park contains 32,690 acres, 220 campsites, cabins for rent as well as lodging at the historic Douglas Lodge.  Our main reason for visiting this park is because it is the headwaters of the Mississippi River.  With its source being Lake Itasca, it is here the Mississippi River begins its 2,552 journey to the Gulf of Mexico.  Minnesota has 694 miles of the Mississippi River, more than any other state.  It drains water into the Mississippi River from half the state.20170701_14120120170701_141037

We first stopped at the beautiful Visitors Center with many exhibits on the animals and plants in the park as well as the history of the area.  They had a nice display area honoring the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC).  The CCC program in Minnesota alone trained 84,000 men in job skills and conservation.   They worked forty hours a week and were paid $30 a month of which $25 was sent home to help their families.  The remaining $5 could be used by the men for personal items.   They also received medical and dental care.  The Visitors Center also had informative displays about the mighty Mississippi River.IMG_20170701_121902IMG_20170701_122224

We drove the Main Park Drive as well as the ten mile paved Wilderness Drive throughout the park stopping at several interesting exhibits.

At the headwaters of the Mississippi River is a 44 foot long outlet dam so tourists can wade across the river in shallow water.  IMG_20170701_143658IMG_20170701_144132IMG_20170701_144204IMG_20170701_144248IMG_20170701_145220There is also a bridge constructed of one big log.IMG_20170701_144000

Approximately 7-8,000 years ago Native Americans hunted in this region.  They ambushed bison, deer and moose at the animals’ watering holes and killed them with stone tipped spears.  20170701_122016There is a bison kill site uncovered in 1937 during the construction of Wilderness Drive.  Ancient bison bones dating back 8,000 years ago were unearthed as well as knives, spears and scrapers.  A large skull is on display at the park Visitors Center.  20170701_122159We stopped by the bison dump site but there is nothing to see there today. We could imagine bison grazing at the watering hole with Indians approaching.

Five hundred to a thousand years ago Woodland Indians lived in this region.  They made clay pots and hunted with bows and arrows.  Their burial mounds are at the Itasca Indian Cemetery.  There is nothing really to see here either. Just a pathway with fencing on each side of over grown grassy areas.20170701_135920

In 1832 explorer Henry Schoolcraft, with the help of an Ojibwe guide, found the source of the Mississippi River at Lake Itasca.  He named the lake Itasca from the Latin words “truth” and “head”.20170701_121456

We stopped by a replica of the pioneer store and homestead site from the late nineteenth century, home of Theodore and Johanna Wegmann, early park pioneers.IMG_20170701_130918

There was also a Pioneer Cemetery with the graves of over a dozen early Itasca homesteaders.20170701_125946

In the late nineteenth century concerns over logging and the need to protect the pine forests for the enjoyment of future generations led to the establishment of the state park.  The park includes the virgin red pine, Minnesota’s state tree.  Some of the red pine in the park are over two hundred years old.  This park is one of the few places in the state that has preserved these pines from destruction.

Retreating glaciers 10,000 years ago left 157 lakes in the 3,000 acre park of different sizes.

Overpopulation of white-tailed deer is a problem in the park with a deer density of 15 to 17 per square mile compared with 4-10 per square miles in other areas.  Annual deer hunts have been held since 1940 in an attempt to curb the deer population.

In the winter the average temperature is -4 F with average snowfall amounts of 54.6 inches!

What a wonderful day in a beautiful park!

IMG_20170701_173606On the way home we stopped in Akeley to see another Paul Bunyan statue.  This one is over thirty feet tall!  It was erected in 1984.  Akeley advertises itself on its welcome sign as the birthplace of Paul Bunyan.  Interesting since Paul Bunyan is a folklore hero.  Seems at least ten towns from Maine to Wisconsin to Michigan to Minnesota claim the same thing.  Apparently blatant attempts to increase tourism, but it got us to stop.  And we did buy gas while we were there, so they got us!  And you really can’t blame a small town with a population of 1,100 to use tricks to get tourist dollars.  At least they didn’t charge us admission!

Our last day in Leech Lake, with the arrival of July 1st, Minnesota, the land of 10,000 lakes turned into the state from hell.  Mosquitoes arrived with a vengeance.  Our last night in Leech Lake Bill killed over thirty mosquitoes INSIDE the RV!  We hope as we head south away from the lakes the number of mosquitoes will decrease.

Next stop: Aitkin, MN as we continue south

Mississippi River Facts:

  • The Mississippi is the fourth longest river in the world.  Many small rivers and streams flow into the Mississippi with the Missouri and Ohio Rivers being the largest.  Together all these connected rivers and streams make up the largest river system in North America with a combined waterway length of more than 15,000 miles.  The Mississippi River drains water from 31 states and two Canadian provinces.  It begins as a small stream at Itasca State Park and is over two miles wide by the time it reaches the Gulf of Mexico.IMG_20170701_120913
  • A raindrop that falls in Lake Itasca will arrive at the Gulf of Mexico in about 90 days.IMG_20170701_120817
  • The length of the Mississippi has been shortened over time by over 200 miles due to channelization.
  • The river is 1,475 feet above sea level at Itasca State Park and at sea level when it enter the Gulf of Mexico.  Over half the elevation drop occurs in the first third of the journey before it leaves Minnesota.
  • The average surface speed of the river is 1.2 miles per hour.
  • Although the air temperature in the winter may reach -40 F, the rocky headwaters where the water flows from the lake into the river rarely freezes over because springs feed enough water into the lake so the river flows all year.
  • The volume of water leaving Lake Itasca is six cubic feet per second, about a bathtub full of water per second.  The volume of water when it reaches the Gulf of Mexico is 468,000 cubic feet per second, about 80,000 times more than when it started.
  • The Mississippi River watershed drains 41% of the continental United States, between 1.2 and 1.8 million square miles.
  • The Mississippi River touches ten states.

Duluth, MN Part 2, June 16, 2017

On Friday we decided to drive from Duluth on what is called the North Shore Scenic Drive on Rt 61 along the shoreline of Lake Superior.  It was a beautiful day to enjoy the drive and the gorgeous scenery.IMG_20170616_120840

The Drive is 150 miles long from Duluth to Thunder Bay, Ontario with views of Lake Superior, glacier carved Sawtooth Mountains and Superior National Forest.  Along the way we suddenly spotted Bigfoot!!20170618_121048

We decided to only drive 55 miles and work our way back while stopping at points of interest.  Our first stop was at Tettegouche State Park where we took a short hike to an overlook with views of Lake Superior.20170618_12140820170618_124208

We had a picnic lunch at Palisade Head, an overlook 200 feet above Lake Superior.  We drank in the amazing views while enjoying lunch.IMG_20170616_123410IMG_20170616_123656

After lunch we found a geocache and Bill found a new friend!IMG_20170616_130011

IMG_20170616_132106Next we passed through the tiny towns of Silver Bay and Beaver Bay before stopping at Split Rock Lighthouse. The lighthouse, said to be the most visited spot on the North Shore, sits atop a sheer cliff 150 feet above Lake Superior and is one of the best preserved and most visited lighthouses in the country.  Split Rock Lighthouse was put into service in 1910.  It was built by the federal government because of a disastrous 1905 storm that sank or damaged 29 ships on Lake Superior.  This lighthouse was completely built from the lakeside because there were no roads at that time.  20170616_143221IMG_20170616_134424IMG_20170616_133838IMG_20170616_134226

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This is the light mechanism

In 1969 the lighthouse was decommissioned and deeded to the state of Minnesota.  It is a National Historic Landmark.  For a fee you can tour the lighthouse, a fog signal building, an oil house, three keepers’ houses, and storage barns.  The lighthouse and buildings appear as they did in the 1920’s.

Split Rock is also a 2,057 acre Minnesota state park but the lighthouse is maintained by the Minnesota Historical Society.

Then we drove to Gooseberry Falls State Park so we could hike to Gooseberry Falls.  It was an easy hike to the two beautiful falls.IMG_20170616_15110320170616_151055IMG_20170616_151957

On the way home we stopped at the Two Harbors Lighthouse which is now a bed and breakfast and the only operating lighthouse in Minnesota.  Built in 1892, it is on the National Register of Historic Places.IMG_20170616_104947

It was a really great day with three state parks, two lighthouses, a beautiful overlook and some amazing scenery.

IMG_20170617_115916Saturday, our last day in Duluth, we drove across the bridge to Wisconsin.  We wanted to visit Pattison State Park thirteen miles south of Superior, Wisconsin.  The park is the location of Big Manitou Falls, which at 165 feet is the highest falls in Wisconsin and the fourth largest waterfall east of the Rockies.  It is said to be the same height as Niagara Falls, just a lot skinnier.

We had to walk in a tunnel under the road and then it was an easy hike to the viewpoints.  The water flows from the Black River and gets its dark color from decaying leaves and roots of vegetation.20170617_115205IMG_20170617_115227IMG_20170617_115621

Here is a video below we made of the falls.

After viewing the falls we found a geocache hidden in a tree.20170617_121638

This state park was very pretty with 80+ handcrafted stone and log buildings and structures built in the 1930’s by the CCC.  We really enjoyed this park, as well as the three Minnesota state parks we visited the day before, all possible because of the hard work of the young men of the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps).

We enjoyed our six days in Duluth.  There were lots of things left to do.  Until next time!

Lake Superior facts:

  • Lake Superior is the largest freshwater lake in the country, bigger than all the other Great Lakes combined. It is 350 miles long, 160 miles wide and has a surface area of 31,700 square miles
  • It contains 10% of the world’s fresh water with a volume of 440 trillion cubic feet
  • Average depth is 439 feet, with its deepest depth at 1,333 feet
  • Average water temperature is 42 degrees
  • There has been over 350 shipwrecks with more than 1,000 souls lost
  • Last time Lake Superior completely froze over was 1997, it was 90% frozen in 2013

Next stop:. Grand Marais, MN

Wild Water & Interstate State Parks, MN June 11, 2017

On Sunday we drove to Wild River State Park located north of Minneapolis/St Paul. They were calling for severe weather to pass through that area so we delayed our departure from Whitewater State Park an hour to allow time for the bad weather to pass.  Even so, along the way the sky became dark as night and we found a safe place to pull over for the rain to pass and the sky to brighten.

20170611_132838We passed through St Paul, crossing the Mississippi River, and since it was a Sunday the traffic was light.  Luckily we did not encounter any severe weather but at one point we saw what looked like snow along the side of the interstate. We realized it was hail from the earlier storm.20170611_132724

We arrived at Wild River State Park located along the St Croix River.  It is called Wild River State Park because it is named after the St Croix River’s designation as a “National Wild and Scenic River”.

IMG_20170612_092130Upon arrival I was alarmed to see signs asking to brake for snakes, and we were not happy to find out that the earlier storm had knocked out power to the campground.  We were supposed to have an electric site but the power never came back on until about five minutes before we left.IMG_20170612_095237IMG_20170612_095140

On Monday we drove to nearby Interstate State Park​.  Established in 1895, Interstate State Park is made up of two parks, one in Minnesota and one in Wisconsin.  The Minnesota park is 1,330 acres and the Wisconsin park is 298 acres.  They​ both straddle the Dalles of the St Croix River, a deep basalt gorge with glacial and rock formations.

IMG_20170612_100930A billion years ago basalt rock formed here when lava escaped from a crack in the earth’s crust.  Ten thousand years ago, water from melting glaciers carved the river valley.  Within that melting water were fast moving whirlpools of swirling sand and water that wore deep holes in the rock, called glacial potholes.  There are more than 400 examples​ of the glacial potholes in the Minnesota park.  IMG_20170612_100503IMG_20170612_101827IMG_20170612_103426IMG_20170612_103109

We walked along the Glacial Pothole Trail where we could see some of the larger potholes.IMG_20170612_101153IMG_20170612_101204IMG_20170612_101347IMG_20170612_101442IMG_20170612_103025IMG_20170612_103031

This large pothole has stairs.IMG_20170612_102602IMG_20170612_102254IMG_20170612_102452IMG_20170612_102146

We then drove back to Wild River State Park, packed up and headed to Duluth.

Next stop: Duluth, Minnesota

Altura, Wabasha & Winona, MN June 8, 2017

IMG_20170609_154231Leaving Chester Woods County Park on Thursday, we continued traveling north through Minnesota’s dairyland.  We only had to drive a short distance to Whitewater State Park near Altura, Minnesota.  This is a lovely state park with lots of green areas and nice spacing between sites.

After getting settled into our spot, we decided to take a short hike in the park to Chimney Rock.  We crossed a pretty bridge with a little babbling creek beneath it.  The hike was rated as moderate and it definitely was not easy with many steps, some steps high and requiring stepping up high, not easy for someone with short legs like me.  Along the way I really wished I had brought along my walking sticks, but Bill is always willing to give me a helping hand.IMG_20170608_145345IMG_20170608_141441IMG_20170608_145157IMG_20170608_143154IMG_20170608_143101IMG_20170608_141341

20170609_103047On Friday we drove to nearby Wabasha to visit the National Eagle Center.  Wabasha is a lovely historic town, one of the oldest towns on the upper Mississippi River and the oldest continuous City in Minnesota.  Across the river you can see Wisconsin.  Wabasha is named after Sioux Nation Indian Chief Wapasha III.IMG_20170609_102740  It has over fifty buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  Wabasha was called the “City of the Healing Waters” by Mark Twain.

The scenery along the riverwalk at the Eagle Center was lovely.20170609_10281520170609_104742

The writer of the movies “Grumpy Old Men” and “Grumpier Old Men” starring Jack Lemmon and Walter Matthau, had a grandfather who lived in Wabasha.  He thought the little historic river town was the perfect setting for the movie.  The town celebrates the “Grumpy Old Men Festival” the last Saturday of February each year.IMG_20170609_122730

IMG_20170609_123555The National Eagle Center is dedicated to educating the public about eagles and caring for injured eagles brought to the center.  The center is an impressive two story building with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the Mississippi River.  We saw three bald eagles and a golden eagle.  We attended an excellent, informative show presented by a center volunteer.  The center also had many educational exhibits about these majestic raptors.  We really enjoyed our time there.IMG_20170609_10283120170609_10411420170609_104542(1)IMG_20170609_104001IMG_20170609_104011IMG_20170609_11331920170609_113435IMG_20170609_114115IMG_20170609_115053IMG_20170609_11491920170609_11572820170609_11582120170609_120024

20170609_122011After lunch at an Irish pub in Wabash, we decided to cross the bridge into Wisconsin and drive along the Mississippi River on what is called the “Great River Road”.  Along the way we saw limestone bluffs common in this part of Wisconsin and Minnesota.  This southeastern part of Minnesota is the only a part of the state that did not once have glacial activity.  A shallow sea covered much of North America, including southeastern Minnesota five hundred million years ago.  Sediment accumulated which turned into rock hundreds of feet thick.  The sea withdrew over four hundred million years ago and erosion has been cutting through the bedrock, creating these bluff lands.IMG_20170609_133345

Along the way we stopped in the tiny town of Alma, Wisconsin to see Lock and Dam #4, one of a series of many locks and dams along the Mississippi River.  It was not unusual to see population signs of 400 or less as we passed through these small towns.IMG_20170609_134635IMG_20170609_134653

We crossed from Wisconsin back into Minnesota across a new 2,300 foot concrete bridge and ended our tour in the town of Winona.  It was founded in 1851 by a steamboat captain.  Winona profited early on from the lumber industry and by 1900 it claimed to have more millionaires per capita than any other place in the United States.  Today it still has a large number of architecturally significant historic buildings and grand homes. It is the largest Minnesota river town south of the Twin Cities.  While there we drove to the Garvin Heights Overlook where we stood on a 575 foot tall bluff with a fantastic view of Winona and the Mississippi River valley.  Another great day!IMG_20170609_143834PANO_20170609_143749

Saturday temperatures were forecasted to climb into the 90’s so we stayed close to home and visited the Whitewater State Park Visitors Center.  The only negative about the park is it sits deep down in a valley and therefore we had no cell phone service and therefore no internet.  The Visitors Center had WiFi so we checked our email while we were there.

Sunday we head further north to Wild River State Park near Center City, Minnesota.

St Louis, MO Part 4 May 25, 2017

We originally planned to stay in the St Louis area for four nights, but it became evident we couldn’t see everything in four days so we extended our stay an additional night.

20170525_103805Thursday we had two places to visit.  First up was Grant’s Farm.  This 281 acre farm is operated by Anheuser- Busch and is the ancestral estate of the Busch family.  Open since 1954, it has 900 animals, a Clydesdale stable and breeding farm, animal shows, a collection of the Busch family’s carriages and trophies and the replica of a 19th century Bavarian village.  The farm is named in honor of Ulysses S. Grant who built a cabin here in 1856 on land he once owned and farmed.20170525_104254

The tram guide pointed out that this fence was made from welded civil war gun barrels.IMG_20170525_143127IMG_20170525_143142

Entrance to the farm is free but you do have to pay $12 to park.  The only way in and out of the farm and village area is by riding a free tram with a narrated tour of the property.  Lines to the tram can get quite long and by the time we left in the early afternoon the line stretched back to the parking area.

It would be pretty impossible for the farm to match our zoo experience the day before, and it didn’t.  We didn’t expect it to.  Our main reason for visiting Grants Farm was for the camel ride.  For $6 each we were able to mark an item off our bucket list.  We rode a camel and didn’t have to go to the Middle East to do it!  It was lots of fun riding Ruby but I found it very uncomfortable sitting on the hump, especially without a saddle.  I certainly would not want to ride one across the desert!IMG_20170525_104850IMG_20170525_105005

We attended an elephant show where the trainers told us about elephants and had the elephant do some tricks.20170525_11195120170525_111745IMG_20170525_11234120170525_112826

We had lunch at the little Bavarian village with Bill getting a Bratwurst and each visitor over 21 receiving free beer.IMG_20170525_121838IMG_20170525_122231IMG_20170525_105905IMG_20170525_105601IMG_20170525_105752

We enjoyed our time at Grant’s Farm but it is definitely geared more for small children.

IMG_20170525_142600Next we drove down the road to the Ulysses S. Grant National Historic Site.  First we watched a sixteen minute introductory film and then walked up to look at the house.  This 9.65 acre site was the family home of Grant’s wife Julia Dent.  Ulysses and Julia purchased the farm from her family during the Civil War.  Tours of the house are available but we did not take it.  IMG_20170525_132353We did spend time inside the stable which is now an interpretive museum, similar to a presidential library.  The museum was very well done and informative covering his early years, military career including leading the Union Army during the Civil War, and two terms as president from 1869-1877.  20170525_141331IMG_20170525_14240120170525_141645During his presidency he stabilized the country in the years after the war ended and enforced civil rights and voting laws.  20170525_134950He signed the Civil Rights Act of 1875 and strengthened the Republican party in the South.  His administration implemented the gold standard and tried to strengthen the dollar. He was unable to effectively halt a five year depression after the “Panic of 1873”.  This produced high unemployment and bankruptcies.  Corruption charges escalated during his second term and Grant’s administration faced more charges of corruption than any other 19th Century president.  20170525_13453220170525_134628Grant died from throat cancer in 1885 at the age of 63.  He had been a heavy cigar smoker.  He is buried at Grant’s Tomb in New York City along with his wife Julia.20170525_141612

On our last day in St Louis we made another stop by Ted Drewes Frozen Custard for one last treat.

We must say we really really enjoyed our time in St Louis.  We were impressed with all the free attractions and friendly people.  The traffic in and out of the city was not at all bad, even with all the construction around the Arch.  There is still so much we didn’t get to see so we hope to return someday.

Next stop: Hannibal, Missouri to visit Mark Twain

REVISED: St Louis, MO Part 3 May 24, 2017

This replaces previous post of the same name; three videos are available below.
On Tuesday we took the RV to get two new front tires which took a good part of the day.  On Wednesday morning we were ready to head out for some more St Louis sightseeing.  Our plan for the day was to visit Forest Park where there were several places we wanted to see.

IMG_20170524_103109Forest Park is one of the largest municipal parks in the United States (larger than Central Park) and covers 1,300 acres.  This park was the site of the 1904 World’s Fair.  First we stopped at the Visitors Center to purchase a $2.00 all day trolley pass that would allow us to hop on and off at various places in Forest Park.IMG_20170524_165938

IMG_20170524_101553We hopped on the trolley and our first stop was at the St Louis History Museum.  A free museum, it was built on the site of the main entrance to the 1904 World’s Fair.  It was originally built as the first national monument to Thomas Jefferson and honors Jefferson’s role in the Louisiana Purchase, preceding the Jefferson Memorial in Washington DC.  IMG_20170524_101857Exhibits feature the history of St Louis from 1764 to the present day.  While we were there they were having a special exhibit on Route 66 called “Route 66: Main Street Through St Louis”.  Route 66 was known as the “Mother Road” and the “Main Street of America”.  We really enjoyed seeing the exhibits on the important role this famous road had in American history.    IMG_20170524_103411IMG_20170524_104326IMG_20170524_104602IMG_20170524_104735IMG_20170524_104829IMG_20170524_105124

IMG_20170524_105611

Do you know what these are? (Answer at end of Blog)

They also had a replica of the Spirit of St Louis airplane. This Spirit of St Louis Sister Plane was used in the 1957 Jimmy Stewart movie.IMG_20170524_110201

We rode the trolley to our next stop, the St Louis Science Museum, another free museum and one of only two free science centers in the United States.  Advertised as one of the largest in the country, one of the top five Science Museums in the country and one of the most visited in the world with 700+ permanent galleries as well as a planetarium and OMNIMAX Theater, our expectations were really high and we were somewhat disappointed.

IMG_20170524_115013IMG_20170524_121921 It was a great science center for children but did not have much for adults.  Unfortunately we just missed a King Tut exhibit set to open May 27th.  Our favorite thing was the pedestrian bridge over the interstate connecting the north and south sections of the Center.  The bridge had glass windows in the floor where you could look down and see the vehicles pass underneath you. They also had windows with radar guns so you could clock the speed of the vehicles as they passed by.

select video above also

Select video above

We took the trolley back to our car and drove a short distance to Pickles Deli, a highly rated deli where Bill got his favorite Reuben sandwich.  On the way out of Forest Park we stopped to take a picture of a Confederate​ statue.  We noticed a news van and some people milling round.  Ironically minutes later on the way to the deli we were listened to the local radio station and heard that this very statue was vandalized the evening before.  Like many other Confederate statues across the country today, discussions are being held about removing this Confederate statue from Forest Park.IMG_20170524_123407IMG_20170524_123335

On the way back to Forest Park we drove by the beautiful Cathedral Basilica of Saint Louis, built between 1907 and 1914.  We didn’t have time to go inside but that is definitely on our list for next time.IMG_20170524_132228

Our final stop of the day was the St Louis Zoo. This zoo is free and is advertised as one of the top zoos in the United States and was voted America’s top free attraction.  This zoo really wowed us and we really enjoyed our time here and was quite impressed.  During our time in St Louis we were really impressed with all the free museums and other places that usually charge an admission in other cities.  Well done, St Louis!IMG_20170524_144333IMG_20170524_144452

The zoo has over 24,000 animals, many of them rare and endangered.

IMG_20170524_144729

Golden Lion Tamarin

IMG_20170524_155952IMG_20170524_153157IMG_20170524_154133IMG_20170524_145239IMG_20170524_152131IMG_20170524_145440IMG_20170524_145908IMG_20170524_162154

We did pay to ride the Emerson Zooline train which is the nation’s largest miniature rail line, providing a 1.5 mile long narrated tour through the 90+ acre park.  The train engines are one third size replicas of the Iron Horse, the historic steam locomotive that helped build the transcontinental railway.  We passed through two tunnels as we traveled around the park.IMG_20170524_140416

We loved seeing all the animals but our favorites were the giraffes, hippos and penguins.  We were amazed at how close we got to the animals and were especially thrilled with the large number of penguins.IMG_20170524_150803IMG_20170524_150756IMG_20170524_163202

Select video above

IMG_20170524_154713IMG_20170524_154900IMG_20170524_155154IMG_20170524_155228

By the time we got back to the car our Garmin pedometers said we had walked over seven miles. What a great day!

Next:. Our last day in St Louis and a camel ride!
Answer: Speakers used at a drive-in theatre.

St Louis, MO Part 3 May 24, 2017

On Tuesday we took the RV to get two new front tires which took a good part of the day.  On Wednesday morning we were ready to head out for some more St Louis sightseeing.  Our plan for the day was to visit Forest Park where there were several places we wanted to see.

IMG_20170524_103109Forest Park is one of the largest municipal parks in the United States (larger than Central Park) and covers 1,300 acres.  This park was the site of the 1904 World’s Fair.  First we stopped at the Visitors Center to purchase a $2.00 all day trolley pass that would allow us to hop on and off at various places in Forest Park.IMG_20170524_165938

IMG_20170524_101553We hopped on the trolley and our first stop was at the St Louis History Museum.  A free museum, it was built on the site of the main entrance to the 1904 World’s Fair.  It was originally built as the first national monument to Thomas Jefferson and honors Jefferson’s role in the Louisiana Purchase, preceding the Jefferson Memorial in Washington DC.  IMG_20170524_101857Exhibits feature the history of St Louis from 1764 to the present day.  While we were there they were having a special exhibit on Route 66 called “Route 66: Main Street Through St Louis”.  Route 66 was known as the “Mother Road” and the “Main Street of America”.  We really enjoyed seeing the exhibits on the important role this famous road had in American history.    IMG_20170524_103411IMG_20170524_104326IMG_20170524_104602IMG_20170524_104735IMG_20170524_104829IMG_20170524_105124

IMG_20170524_105611

Do you know what these are? (Answer at end of Blog)

They also had a replica of the Spirit of St Louis airplane. This Spirit of St Louis Sister Plane was used in the 1957 Jimmy Stewart movie.IMG_20170524_110201

We rode the trolley to our next stop, the St Louis Science Museum, another free museum and one of only two free science centers in the United States.  Advertised as one of the largest in the country, one of the top five Science Museums in the country and one of the most visited in the world with 700+ permanent galleries as well as a planetarium and OMNIMAX Theater, our expectations were really high and we were somewhat disappointed.

IMG_20170524_115013IMG_20170524_121921 It was a great science center for children but did not have much for adults.  Unfortunately we just missed a King Tut exhibit set to open May 27th.  Our favorite thing was the pedestrian bridge over the interstate connecting the north and south sections of the Center.  The bridge had glass windows in the floor where you could look down and see the vehicles pass underneath you. They also had windows with radar guns so you could clock the speed of the vehicles as they passed by.

also

We took the trolley back to our car and drove a short distance to Pickles Deli, a highly rated deli where Bill got his favorite Reuben sandwich.  On the way out of Forest Park we stopped to take a picture of a Confederate​ statue.  We noticed a news van and some people milling round.  Ironically minutes later on the way to the deli we were listened to the local radio station and heard that this very statue was vandalized the evening before.  Like many other Confederate statues across the country today, discussions are being held about removing this Confederate statue from Forest Park.IMG_20170524_123407IMG_20170524_123335

On the way back to Forest Park we drove by the beautiful Cathedral Basilica of Saint Louis, built between 1907 and 1914.  We didn’t have time to go inside but that is definitely on our list for next time.IMG_20170524_132228

Our final stop of the day was the St Louis Zoo. This zoo is free and is advertised as one of the top zoos in the United States and was voted America’s top free attraction.  This zoo really wowed us and we really enjoyed our time here and was quite impressed.  During our time in St Louis we were really impressed with all the free museums and other places that usually charge an admission in other cities.  Well done, St Louis!IMG_20170524_144333IMG_20170524_144452

The zoo has over 24,000 animals, many of them rare and endangered.

IMG_20170524_144729

Golden Lion Tamarin

IMG_20170524_155952IMG_20170524_153157IMG_20170524_154133IMG_20170524_145239IMG_20170524_152131IMG_20170524_145440IMG_20170524_145908IMG_20170524_162154

We did pay to ride the Emerson Zooline train which is the nation’s largest miniature rail line, providing a 1.5 mile long narrated tour through the 90+ acre park.  The train engines are one third size replicas of the Iron Horse, the historic steam locomotive that helped build the transcontinental railway.  We passed through two tunnels as we traveled around the park.IMG_20170524_140416

We loved seeing all the animals but our favorites were the giraffes, hippos and penguins.  We were amazed at how close we got to the animals and were especially thrilled with the large number of penguins.IMG_20170524_150803IMG_20170524_150756IMG_20170524_163202

IMG_20170524_154713IMG_20170524_154900IMG_20170524_155154IMG_20170524_155228

By the time we got back to the car our Garmin pedometers said we had walked over seven miles. What a great day!

Next:. Our last day in St Louis and a camel ride!
Answer: Speakers used at a drive-in theatre.