Category Archives: National Park or Forest

National Park or Forest

Tucson, AZ Part 2, NOV 15, 2017

While we were in Tucson we visited Saguaro (sa-WAH-row) National Park.  They are actually two districts to the park:  Saguaro West-Tucson Mountain District and Saguaro East-Rincon Mountain District.  The two districts are separated by Tucson and are about thirty miles apart.  Together, they preserve over 91,000 acres of the Sonoran Desert, including the saguaro cactus. The saguaro cactus, the supreme symbol of the American Southwest, has been protected in the park since 1933.  When we visited Tucson in December, 2013 we visited the west side of the park.  This time we visited the west side again and also visited the east side.  We took time to see the movies at both Visitors Centers and drove through both parks, enjoying the views, especially of the saguaros and different cacti.IMG_20171109_155814

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This is what a saguaro looks like on the inside

 

First up was the Bajada Loop Drive in the Saguaro West District.IMG_20171109_150814IMG_20171109_151559IMG_20171109_151709IMG_20171109_15081420171109_151918IMG_20171109_155623IMG_20171109_160815

On another day we drove the Cactus Forest Drive in the Tucson East District.IMG_1565IMG_1567IMG_1569

After finishing our drive in the Tucson East District, we drove the Mount Lemmon Scenic Byway which took us to an elevation of 9,157 feet.  The temperature averages thirty degrees cooler here compared to Tucson.  At the top is a small ski resort, many lodges, restaurants and a general store.  IMG_1572IMG_1577IMG_1582IMG_1597IMG_1588IMG_1589IMG_1595IMG_1598

We enjoyed a picnic lunch at the top and it was so chilly we had to put on jackets.  The views of Tucson at the top and during the drive were beautiful.IMG_1593IMG_1594

Before we left Tucson we drove to a nearby RV park to meet up with two of Bill’s FMCA amateur radio buddies.  We enjoyed meeting them and their wives and after visiting for awhile we all went out to lunch.  Weekly they talk by radio where ever they maybe.

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KW4FD Bill, W0BEB Bruce and K5WF Howard

Next stop:. Casa Grande, AZ

Willcox, AZ OCT 30, 2017

After an overnight stop in Deming, New Mexico, we said a fond farewell to New Mexico and hello to Arizona.  We really enjoyed our two months in New Mexico and made many great memories, but the weather was getting colder and it was time to move on to warmer weather.  We crossed over the Continental Divide between Deming and Lordsburg, New Mexico, elevation 4,585 ft.  Unfortunately we passed by the sign too quickly to snap a picture.20171030_111505IMG_20171030_101204IMG_20171030_101248

 We knew for sure we had entered Arizona when we started seeing many signs on Interstate 10 warning of potential dust storms.  It seemed every few miles there were yellow dust storm warning signs followed by signs with advice on what to do if you encountered a dust storm. 20171030_110123 

Another way we knew we were near Mexico was when we passed through a border patrol checkpoint on I-10, even though we were really not that close to the border.  They photographed the vehicle as we slowly passed and the border patrol agent waved us through. We didn’t even have to come to a stop.

Our first stop was in Willcox where we stayed three nights at another nice Elks Lodge with electric and water hookups.  Willcox has a population of just over 3,700, a nice little town.  Cattle raising is important here as well as the cultivation of apples, peaches, pistachios, onions and tomatoes.  Willcox is also known for its vineyards.IMG_20171030_173757

On Tuesday we made the forty-five minute drive to Chiricahua National Monument.  This area is also called “Wonderland of Rocks” and was established as a monument in 1924 to protect the rocks. It exceeded our expectations and definitely had the WOW factor!  These lands were once owned by the Chiricahua Apaches who were led by the great Cochise.  Cochise led the Native American resistance to the white man’s advances during the 1860’s.IMG_20171031_132103

Twenty-seven million years ago violent eruptions from a nearby volcano covered the area with white hot ash and formed a twelve mile wide caldera.  The ash cooled and fused into an almost 2,000 foot layer of rock.  Over time erosion sculptured the rock into odd shaped rock pillars.

We stopped by the Visitors Center located in Bonita Canyon and saw a short movie on the area.IMG_20171031_134956

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This view is from the sun roof of our car

We drove the eight mile scenic drive where the rocks at times towered above us.  IMG_20171031_140534IMG_20171031_140718IMG_20171031_140831IMG_20171031_141535

We also took two hikes, both on rocky paths and we were glad we had our walking sticks.  IMG_20171031_143153IMG_20171031_143257IMG_20171031_143311IMG_20171031_144011IMG_20171031_143701IMG_20171031_144722IMG_20171031_144608IMG_20171031_144854IMG_20171031_150512IMG_20171031_145047

The views were amazing and reminded us of the magnificent national parks in Utah.  We especially enjoyed the balanced rocks and the grottoes, which are small cave like formations.IMG_20171031_152346IMG_20171031_154033IMG_20171031_155142IMG_20171031_155747IMG_20171031_160311IMG_20171031_160400

Next stop: Benson, AZ

Alamogordo, NM OCT 26, 2017

Leaving Lakewood on Thursday we headed west towards Alamogordo.  We again passed by the pumps pumping oil.  20171022_145029

We had to drive over the Cloudcroft summit, elevation 8,650 ft.  Due to the high elevation and the steep grade on the way down from the peak, we disconnected the car and I drove the car down the mountain.  I was able to snap a quick picture of Bill driving the RV through a tunnel on the way down.20171026_114759(0)

We arrived in Alamogordo and set up at the local friendly Elks Lodge where they have electric, water and sewer RV sites.  Alamogordo is home to the Holloman Air Force Base and much of the city’s industry is related to the Air Base and space travel.

After getting settled in we drove to the nearby New Mexico Museum of Space History. It is appropriate that the museum is here since this area of New Mexico is known as the cradle of America’s space program.  It was not the most extensive space museum we have ever been to, and some of the museum was under renovation and in disarray, but we enjoyed our visit.  IMG_20171026_13585920171026_14072320171026_140819

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This is the Elevator

On the grounds was the burial site of HAM, the first “Astrochimp”.  (Previously dogs and other animals had been launched by Soviets and NASA as merely passengers.) HAM was launched in a Mercury capsule on January 31, 1961.  Three months later the first manned flight was launched into space with Alan Shepard becoming the first American in space.   IMG_20171026_142931IMG_20171026_14294420171026_142947

We both enjoyed the Star Trek collection.20171026_150627IMG_20171026_151133IMG_20171026_151047

 Bill was especially interested in the Daisy Track.  It was used from 1955 to 1985 and was converted from rocket to air powered sled track. It was used to study the effects of acceleration, deceleration and impact on the human body of different equipment systems.  It was used for biological and mechanical research and testing for NASA’s Mercury space flights and the Apollo moon landings. It was used to test the idea of seat belts for automobile use.IMG_20171026_151629IMG_20171026_152437IMG_20171026_152827IMG_20171026_152907IMG_20171026_153025

Thursday evening was Wing Night at the Elks and we went over and had some wings in hot sauce, very hot sauce!

IMG_20171027_132702Friday we drove to White Sands National Monument.  Here, rare gypsum sands form beautiful white dunes that rise up to sixty feet above the Tularosa Basin floor at the northern end of the Chihuahuan Desert.  How were they formed?  Basically when the Permian Sea retreated millions of years ago, it left behind deep layers of gypsum fields.  Mountains rose and carried  the gypsum higher. The dunes were created when rain and melting snow dissolved gypsum from the surrounding mountains and carried it into Lake Lucero.  Desert heat evaporated the water, causing gypsum crystals to form.  Dry southwest winds exposed the crystals, eroding them into sand size particles that were blown to form the dunes.  

Today, wind, snow and rain continue the process.  Inches below the surface is water which prevents the dunes from blowing away.  At 275 square miles, White Sands is the world’s largest gypsum dune field.  It is truly like no other place on earth and one of the world’s great natural wonders.  People are allowed to go dune sledding here.  President Herbert Hoover declared it a national monument in 1933.  

We saw an interesting movie in the Visitors Center on how the dunes were formed and are ever changing.  Of particular interest was a description of how the animals such as lizards and rodents have adapted to the harsh, white environment by evolving to a white color to camouflage themselves from their enemies. IMG_20171027_132756 

This can be a surprisingly dangerous environment where it is easy to get lost and lose your bearings in all the whiteness.  A couple years ago a family visiting from France became disoriented on one of the trails on a hot day.  They had failed to bring enough water with them on the hike.  The parents died and their son survived because the parents gave their water to their son.  IMG_1517IMG_1519IMG_1521IMG_1522IMG_1526IMG_1532IMG_1544IMG_1552

We walked on a couple of the easier trails.  In the parking lot of one of the trails we noticed a vehicle with Virginia license plates so of course we had to stop and talk with them.  They were from Henrico County and had been traveling full time in their RV for four months.  We stood in the parking lot and chatted with them for about an hour, sharing our experience over the last four years.  Always excited to meet someone from my birth state.  We exchanged contact information so hopefully we will meet up with this nice couple sometime down the road.IMG_1557IMG_1563IMG_1553

Nearby is White Sands Missile Range where the Trinity Site is located.  It was here on July 16,1945 the first atomic bomb was detonated.  From 1945 to 1949 the German V2 rockets and their engineers assembled and tested their rockets here. In the 1960’s, testing for the lunar module engines that propelled Apollo astronauts off the moon’s surface was done here.  Today the facilities are used for radar, laser and flight research.IMG_20171026_145557

On Saturday Bill helped some men from the Elks replace some electrical power cables.  Some of the electrical outlets at various campsites were not working.  When the men came on Saturday morning to fix them, Bill went out to ask if they needed help.  They accepted his offer so he spent several hours helping them pull power cables underground. Their next step will be to connect up the RV sites to the new cables.

Next up: Willcox, Arizona

Carlsbad Caverns NP, NM OCT 24, 2017

We left Valley of Fires and headed towards Carlsbad Caverns.  We hadn’t planned on visiting Carlsbad but decided since we had some extra days to spend in New Mexico and the Caverns were fairly close, now was a good time.  In November, 2015 we stopped there on our way back home to Florida.  We discovered the elevator was broken and it is a very long uphill climb out of the Caverns if you can’t take the elevator!  We decided to skip the tour and visit another time.  We usually are up for the challenge but back then I had a chest cold and didn’t feel like the exertion it would take to hike out.

Along the way we passed oil pumps pumping oil before pulling into an Escapees RV Park called The Ranch.   Located in Lakewood, it is about 45 minutes from Carlsbad Caverns.  Without a doubt Escapees are the nicest and friendliest people you would ever want to meet.  Immediately upon our arrival, someone rang the big bell outside the office and people starting walking up to greet us and invite us to the afternoon Happy Hour.

The next morning we drove to Carlsbad Caverns which required us driving through the city of Carlsbad.  The traffic was really tedious with lots of traffic lights, none of which appeared to be synchronized.IMG_20171024_091223

Carlsbad Caverns, located in the Chihuahuan Desert of the Guadalupe Mountains, is one of the largest caves in the Western Hemisphere.  It is also one of deepest, longest and darkest caverns ever found.  It is considered to be the Eighth Wonder of the World.

We decided to take the self guided tour and our Golden Age Pass prevented us from having to pay a fee to enter the Caverns.  We did rent a headset in the bookstore with a narrated tour.  We began by hiking 1.25 miles into the cave through the Natural Entrance.  IMG_20171024_095652IMG_20171024_095833IMG_20171024_101434

We descended 800 feet which was very steep in places and gave our legs and knees quite a workout.IMG_20171024_103452IMG_20171024_104302IMG_20171024_120002

The chambers of the Caverns were beautiful, though not as colorful as caverns we have visited in other states.  The prevalent color was brown and it felt drier than other caves.  The highlight was The Big Room, which at 8.2 acres is one of the world’s largest and most accessible underground chambers.IMG_20171024_104318IMG_20171024_115037

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The ripples are from water dropping into the pool

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This one is called “Rock of the Ages”

Carlsbad Caverns is a sanctuary to several hundred thousand Mexican bats.  During the day they congregate together in a section of the Caverns called the Bat Cave.  As we passed through this area we could hear them.  Since they have started their winter migration, we did not see their nightly flight from the Caverns which can be seen at other times of the year.  Back in the 1800’s settlers explored the Caverns and used the huge deposits left behind by the bats, called guano, as natural fertilizer.  IMG_20171024_110532IMG_20171024_114854IMG_20171024_105122IMG_20171024_115309IMG_20171024_122844IMG_20171024_113549IMG_20171024_113850IMG_20171024_113946IMG_20171024_114210IMG_20171024_114307IMG_20171024_114825IMG_20171024_114907IMG_20171024_124653IMG_20171024_114358IMG_20171024_124844

In the early 1900’s a cowboy named Jim White was the first person to extensively explore the Caverns and led the first tours.  It is hard to comprehend what it must have been like for them to enter such a huge, dark abyss.  Today there are paved walkways and electric lights.  It is  also hard to grasp the labor that went into putting in those walkways and lights.  After first becoming a national monument, it became a national park in 1930.

After spending about three hours walking through the Caverns we took the elevator back up.  We were very happy to see it working this time!

The 1959 movie, “Journey to the Center of the Earth” was filmed here.

Next up: Alamogordo, NM

Valley of Fires, NM OCT 17, 2017

By the time we left Albuquerque we were really tired from all the early mornings and physical exertion from the Balloon Fiesta.  After filling the RV up with propane we headed south to Valley of Fires Recreation Area where we had a very nice electric and water site overlooking the lava fields.  This may be the youngest lava flow in the continental United States, with scientific evidence estimating that the most recent flow occurred 1,500 to 2,000 years ago.  The lava spewed from volcanic vents, covering the valley floor.  Occasionally it would surround areas of higher ground, forming islands called “kipukas”.  Our campground was located on a kipuka.

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The campground is surrounded by the lava field

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In the lava fields we hiked a very nice paved walkway where we saw lava, in some cases smooth like blocks and in other areas more ropy-looking.  20171020_13162120171020_13181020171020_132151

The lava is more than 160 feet thick near the center and covers over 125 square miles.  20171016_125532IMG_20171016_153241IMG_20171020_132521IMG_20171020_132545

We could see pressure ridges, collapsed lava bubbles, fissures, pits, collapsed lava tubes and rock shelters.  IMG_20171020_13034820171020_131158

We loved seeing all the cacti and plants growing among the lava.IMG_20171016_153322

Valley of Fires is located just outside of the town of Carrizozo, NM.  In the period between 1910 and 1920 it was a thriving railroad town and open for homesteading, with many railroad families claiming their 640 acres of free land.  With the modernization of railroad machinery and the introduction of new diesel engines, the need for the town’s railroad workforce was eliminated.  Today Carrizozo has a population of 940 and the town is showing signs of disrepair.  One of the main streets was used in a post apocalypse scene from the 2010 movie “The Book of Eli” with Denzel Washington.

IMG_20171017_132037We had planned to rest and relax here but we seem to always find things to do wherever we go!  Tuesday we drove an hour north to the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument.  This is made up of three pueblos and 17th century Spanish Franciscan missions.  The missions were abandoned in the late 17th century and the masonry ruins are surprisingly intact.  We first went to the Visitors Center to see a short film and view the exhibits.  

The three ruins, called the Abo Ruins, Gran Quivira Ruins and the Quarai Ruins, are within a thirty mile radius of each other.  Before the Spaniards came, these pueblos were major trade centers, with salt from the nearby salt lakes being an important trade commodity between the Pueblo and Plains Indians.  Between 1630 and 1680, Franciscan missionaries and Spanish colonists came and built churches using Indian labor and forced their religion and way of life on the Native Americans.  Drought, famine, disease and Apache raids were devastating on the Pueblo people.

IMG_20171017_133633First up was Quarai.  Here are remnants of church walls and remains of what was once a bustling Indian pueblo and Franciscan mission.  At one time the square was surrounded on three sides by blocks of stone houses three stories high.  Over 600 people hunted, farmed and traded goods and salt from nearby lake beds.  The first stone houses were built here around 1300.  By 1677, Quarai was deserted.20171017_13401420171017_13460220171017_134714IMG_20171017_135155

IMG_20171017_142306Next was the Abo Mission.  When the first Spanish priest walked into Abo in 1622, nothing would ever be the same for the Native Americans again.  Life as they knew it changed forever.  Artifacts uncovered from this area included a ceramic candlestick, mother-of-pearl cross and stone effigies all telling the story of conflicting religions.  We saw a large kiva, which is an underground meeting chamber for conducting religious ceremonies, teaching children, telling stories and weaving.  20171017_14271320171017_143008IMG_20171017_143044

The Franciscan priest supervised the construction of the massive church using Pueblo labor.  The walls were sandstone held together with mud mortar and plastered white with gypsum on the inside and whitewashed adobe on the outside.  When it was completed in 1651 it resembled the fortress churches in Mexico.IMG_20171017_142755

Last up was Gran Quivira, the largest of the pueblos.  At one time it was a village of more than twenty masonry house blocks and between 1,500 and 2,000 people.  There were approximately 300 rooms and six kivas.  They occupied this area for over 900 years.IMG_20171017_152715IMG_20171017_154304IMG_20171017_15442420171017_154902

20171018_131635Thursday we drove a short distance to the Three Rivers Petroglyph Site.  The Jornada Mogollon people carved more than 21,000 designs of humans, birds, animals, fish, insects, plants and geometric shapes in the basalt of the Three Rivers Valley in over 50 acres of the northern Chihuahuan Desert.  This area is one of the largest rock art sites in North America.  We followed a trail, somewhat challenging at times, through the desert looking at the petroglyphs and keeping a vigilant watch for rattlesnakes. 20171018_135949 

Thankfully we didn’t see any, but Bill did see a rattlesnake crossing the road across from our RV at the campground!  We only have a few pictures to show you because the pictures accidentally got deleted when transferring from the camera to the laptop.  Oh well, stuff happens sometimes!  

Here is a link to the BLM site where you can see some petroglyph pictures located at Flickr.

On Saturday we drove 45 minutes to Ruidoso to have lunch with Bill’s cousin Julie and her daughter.  Bill and Julie had not seen each other for 35 years!  We had a nice time catching up.IMG_20171021_145412

Next stop: A visit to Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Tent Rocks National Monument, NM SEPT 26, 2017

On Tuesday we drove just a few miles down the road to the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument.  The 4,645 acre Park was established in 2001 after being designated an Area of Critical Environmental Concern and is managed by the Bureau of Land Management.  IMG_20170926_104514

In order to access the Park you need to drive through the Pueblo de Cochiti Reservation.  Kasha-Katuwe means “white cliffs” in the native language of the Pueblos.  There is evidence of human occupation in the area for over 4,000 years with the first Pueblos in the 14th and 15th centuries. The cone or tent shaped rock formations were created 6 to 7 million years ago from volcanic eruptions of the Jemez volcano that left pumice, ash and volcanic rock over 1,000 feet thick.  The tent rock shapes can be up to 90 feet tall.  IMG_20170926_105103IMG_20170926_112330

Here we hiked two trails.  The first trail, the Slot Canyon Trail, was a difficult trail involving some difficult scrambling over rocks and rock climbing.  IMG_20170926_112341IMG_20170926_112403IMG_20170926_112552IMG_20170926_112908IMG_20170926_113609IMG_20170926_113748IMG_20170926_114018IMG_20170926_114603IMG_20170926_114706IMG_20170926_114800IMG_20170926_114826
I really enjoyed walking in the Slot Canyon but at one point I just didn’t have enough upper body strength and had to give up and let Bill go ahead while I waited.
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The second trail, the Cave Loop Trail was a shorter and easier trail.  IMG_20170926_122947IMG_20170926_123136IMG_20170926_123145IMG_20170926_123254IMG_20170926_123225IMG_20170926_123314IMG_20170926_123355IMG_20170926_123806

Bill found a snakeskin but luckily not the owner!  IMG_20170926_122942

We met a very nice couple from Ohio on the trail and enjoyed talking with them along the way.  Before heading home we drove to the Veterans’ Memorial Scenic Overlook with a beautiful view of the picturesque Peralta Canyon and Jemez Mountain peaks.IMG_20170926_124034IMG_20170926_124706IMG_20170926_132648IMG_20170926_132713IMG_20170926_134515

Next up: Albuquerque and the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta.IMG_20170926_104809

Cochiti Lake COE, NM SEPT 25, 2017

After a short stop in White Rock we headed to Cochiti Lake Corps of Engineering campground about thirty miles outside of Santa Fe. It was a beautiful drive.20170922_10594220170922_112220

Cochiti Lake is located on the Rio Grande, the fifth longest river in North America.  The name Cochiti comes from the Native Americans who have lived in the area for over seven hundred years.  We passed through several Indian reservations on our way from White Rock to Cochiti Lake.  Many had signs prohibiting photography.IMG_20170924_155357

Cochiti Lake has one of the ten largest earthen dams in the United States.  It is 5.5 miles long and is 251 feet tall to enclose water from the Rio Grande and Santa Fe Rivers.  We paid a visit to the Dam Visitors Center.  A couple from Martinsville, Virginia was also visiting and it was nice to meet someone from my birth state!IMG_20170924_154626

On Monday we drove into Santa Fe, the oldest (407 years) and highest (7,000 ft above sea level) capital city in the United States.  We were there in 2015 and you can read about that visit here: Santa Fe, NM May 23, 2015 IMG_20170925_130324

This visit we wanted to tour the state capitol building.  The original capitol building was the Palace of Governors built in 1609 on the Plaza and served the Spanish, Mexican and American governments.  This current capitol building was constructed in 1966 and is the only round state capitol building in the United States.  IMG_20170925_122655IMG_20170925_123033

The building design forms the Zia sun symbol, a design found on a 19th century water jar from the Zia Pueblo.  The sun with four rays symbolizes the four directions, the four seasons, the four times of the day (sunrise, noon, evening and night) and life’s four divisions (childhood, youth, adulthood and old age).  The circle represents the circle of life, without a beginning or end.IMG_20170925_124249

 The Zia also believed man has four sacred obligations: strong body, clear mind, pure spirit and devotion to the welfare of his people.  We enjoyed walking around looking at the beautiful Native American and southwestern artwork. 20170925_12333420170925_12352220170925_12455820170925_12484620170925_124950

Of particular interest was a buffalo head made completely out of recycled materials including old paintbrushes, paper-mache, scrap metal and movie film.IMG_20170925_124309IMG_20170925_124454IMG_20170925_124503

On the way to lunch we stopped by Cross of the Martyrs, a park that was once the site of Fort Marcy and has a spectacular view of Santa Fe.  The white cross commemorates 21 Franciscan priests killed during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680.IMG_20170925_131428

We had lunch at a local recommended Mexican restaurant.  We struggled to eat our lunch with the hot green chile sauce.  Can you see the pain on Bill’s face?20170925_135626IMG_20170925_135646

After lunch we drove several miles east to the Pecos National Historical Park.  The Park was formed in 1990 and had a Visitors Center with an interesting movie and exhibits.IMG_20170925_143622

The area has a rich history.  From 1350-1838 it was home to the powerful Pecos Pueblo with pueblos rising four to five stories high and home to 2,000 people, including 500 warriors.  In the 1540’s Spain tried to colonize the area and convert the people to Catholicism.  Coronado and his men searching for the seven cities of gold clashed with the powerful, determined Pecos.  In the early 1600’s Franciscan friars again tried to convert the Pecos, destroying kivas, smashing statues and banning Pueblo ceremonies.  In 1621 a friar arrived who acknowledged the Pueblo culture, language and beliefs while also trying to educate and convert them.  A large mission church was built, some of which is still standing and we were able to visit.20170925_14480720170925_15081820170925_150834

By the late 1700’s, drought, disease, migration and Comanche raids greatly decreased the Peso population and by 1838 the last of the inhabitants had moved from the region.  From 1915-1929 archeological excavations of the site were done to study and save the remnants of six hundred plus years of human occupation.20170925_15153020170925_15164720170925_15173820170925_15191220170925_152648IMG_20170925_152117IMG_20170925_152609IMG_20170925_152011

In 1925, a man purchased 5,500 acres and created the Forked Lightning Ranch which was sold in 1941 to Buddy Fogelson, husband of actress Greer Garson.  In 1991 Greer Garson sold the ranch to a Conservation Fund which then donated it to the National Park Service.20170925_150917

There is always work to do!

Santa Fe facts:

  • Population of 82,800 (Santa Fe county is 147,423)
  • 37 square miles (Santa Fe county is 121,298 square miles)
  • Averages 325 days of sunshine a year
  • USA Today Readers’ Choice named it one of Top Historic Cities in the U.S.

White Rock, NM SEPT 20, 2017

We left Abiquiu COE campground and headed to White Rock, New Mexico, elevation 6,365, just outside Los Alamos.  This was a short two night stopover, mainly to visit the Valles Caldera National Preserve, one of three super volcanoes in the United States.  The 89,000 acre Preserve is one of the newest additions to the National Park Service in October, 2015.  The Valles Caldera supervolcano erupted 1.2 million years ago and the center of the volcano collapsed, creating a volcanic caldera 13.7 miles wide.IMG_20170921_080004IMG_20170921_075645

Since they only allow thirty cars a day to drive around the backcountry of the Preserve, we got up earlier than we normally do to make the thirty minute drive there in order to arrive when they opened at 8:00 A.M.  It was a good thing we did because archery hunting season has begun and by the time we arrived fifteen of the passes had already been given out to hunters looking for elk.IMG_20170921_075709IMG_20170921_084139

We received our car pass from the ranger at the Valle Grande Contact Station and began our drive around the Preserve.  We were at an elevation of almost 10,000 feet and the car thermometer registered 28 degrees!IMG_20170921_083421  Can’t remember the last time we were in weather that cold. As we began the drive in the Valle Grande Valley, we saw a couple prairie dogs. We drove on unpaved roads around the dormant volcano caldera with expansive valley meadows, lush forested volcanic domes and streams where we saw an occasional fisherman.  Even though herds of elk and black bear also live in the Preserve, we only saw deer, cattle and prairie dogs.  Scenes from the 2013 movie “Lone Ranger” were filmed here.

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Prairie Dog

Los Alamos is famous as “The Secret City”, site of the top secret Manhattan Project during World War II which focused on atomic bomb design and testing.  When we were here in 2015 we toured the Bradbury Science Museum and the Los Alamos History Museum Campus.  You can read the blog about that visit here: Los Alamos, NM May, 20 201520170921_13224420170921_132336IMG_20170921_14503020170921_13200320170921_132059

This visit we wanted to see the new Manhattan Project National Historical Park operated by the National Park Service.  It is one of the few national parks that focuses on American science, technology and industry during World  War II.  We watched the movie about the Manhattan Project and looked at exhibits in the Visitors Center which focused not only on science but also the social and cultural life of the people who lived and worked in the “Secret City”.  Located in the Historical Park are life size bronze statues of Dr. J. Robert Oppenheimer and General Leslie R. Groves, leaders of the Manhattan Project.IMG_20170921_145021IMG_20170921_124449

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This is Where Dr. J. Robert Oppenheimer Lived

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Since we were last there the History Museum had been remodeled and additional exhibits added so we paid a second visit there.IMG_20170921_152816

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The Road To Los Alamos

The two days went by quickly and it was time to head to Cochiti Lake, outside of Santa Fe.

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Available at Local Grocery Store

Baudette and NW Angle, MN June 27, 2017

As we drove from Kabetogama to Baudette we followed the Rainy River with views of Canada across the river.  We were glad to see sunny skies and warmer temperatures.  20170627_121912We settled in at a nice city campground.  This area of Minnesota is known as Lake of the Woods and Baudette is located in Lake of the Woods County.   Baudette is known as the Walleye Capital of the World.  Can you guess what a walleye is? IMG_20170628_145609There are no stoplights in the entire county.  Established in 1923, it is the youngest Minnesota county and there are only three and a half people per square mile.  There are two schools in the county.  One is just west of Baudette and serves preschool through 12th grade.  The other school is in Northwest (NW) Angle and serves children through sixth grade.

Our purpose for coming this far north in Minnesota was to visit the NW Angle, the northernmost point in the contiguous United States and the only place in the contiguous United States north of the 49th parallel at 49.3 degrees.  We had been to the southernmost point and the easternmost point in our travels, so we couldn’t pass this up.  Lake of the Woods has 14,552 islands and NW Angle is where the islands begin in the lake.

The thing is, in order to get to NW Angle, you have to drive to the top of Minnesota, enter Manitoba, Canada, exit Canada and re-enter Minnesota, about two hours each way from Baudette.  Which means you better have your passport handy and you have to deal with border crossings.  That never stops us, so off we went.

IMG_20170627_162205We passed into Canada after stopping at the border, showing our passports and answering the usual questions.  The Canadian border agent made us lower the back window and open the trunk.  He asked us several times if we knew anyone in Canada or were visiting anyone.  Then he sent us on our way.  After driving in Canada for about fifty miles we crossed back into Minnesota and arrived at NW Angle, population 119.  It is hard to believe this remote location is still part of Lake of the Woods County and part of Minnesota.  Signs directed us to Jim’s Corner where we had to check in with the U.S. border patrol.  This is where it really got different!  At Jim’s Corner there was a small shed.  Inside was a videophone.  IMG_20170627_164207IMG_20170627_180513There were two buttons on the phone.  One button had a U.S. flag symbol and the other button a Canadian flag.  We pushed the U.S. flag and spoke with a U.S. border patrol agent.  He asked us our names, birthdates and car tag.  Then the usual why and how long we were there questions.  We were then free to begin exploring the area​.  

IMG_20170627_162251NW Angle has a total land area of 596 square miles with 123 miles being land and 473 miles of water. Seventy percent of the land is held in trust by the Red Lake Indian Reservation, part of the Ojibwa tribe.  IMG_20170627_162325IMG_20170627_170057NW Angle was given to the U.S. by mistake during the Canada-U.S. border agreement in the Treaty of Paris.  A mapmaker’s error misrepresented the source of the Mississippi River which was an agreed upon boundary.  When the mistake was discovered, the British wanted to change the boundary in the Treaty of Ghent, but the U.S. refused to secede any land.

I must say NW Angle had the biggest black flies we have ever seen in our lives.  Whenever we stopped they immediately attacked the car with such intensity it was very unsettling.  The pings as they hit the windows and sides of the car was like something out of a  Sci Fi horror movie.  The really strange thing was the wind was blowing and whenever we got out of the car they didn’t bother us and didn’t bite.  They just attacked the car.IMG_20170627_170148

We had planned on finding some geocaches and at first I refused to get out of the car because of the flies.  But after Bill got out and convinced me the flies wouldn’t attack me, we both enjoyed finding the geocaches.  There was one geocache near this original single room schoolhouse.IMG_20170627_170235

We stopped at the smallest post office in the continental U.S.IMG_20170627_170659

Here is the one room schoolhouse which is the only school in NW Angle and the last remaining one room schoolhouse in the state. The school is K through sixth grade, has one teacher and twelve students, with enrollment and attendance varying seasonally.  29714055462_bc515bdb54_bSome children arrive by boat from nearby islands.  In the winter some students travel to school by snowmobile.

We found the northernmost marker which looked exactly like the marker in Key West, Florida except this one was blue.IMG_20170627_173231

In 1997 some residents of NW Angle suggested leaving the United States and becoming part of Canada.  This angered the leaders of the Red Lake Indian Reservation which holds most of the land.  The residents’ main gripe was what they considered to be unequal fishing regulations between the U.S. and Canada.  The NW Angle residents worked with their Congressman to get an amendment introduced to bring equity in the ways the two nations were treated under NAFTA.

After a couple hours exploring it was time to head home.  But first we had to go back to the shed at Jim’s Corner and check in with the Canadian patrol.  This time we pressed the Canadian flag symbol on the phone, but we were put on hold for almost twenty minutes.  We were very grateful we were waiting inside the shed and not outside with the flies.  There is a second phone outside in case there are people waiting.  Finally a Canadian agent came on the line and asked us almost the same questions we had been asked before.  She then gave us a four digit number to use in case we were stopped by Canadian police.  The number would prove we had checked in.

We left NW Angle and re-entered Canada.  Our drive through Canada back to the Minnesota border was uneventful.  When we re-entered the U.S. at the Canadian border we now had a real in person United States border agent.  He didn’t ask us to open the trunk, just wanted to know what we did in Canada and if we had anything to declare.  Very easy getting back in.

I read that the lack of in person border patrols at NW Angle has caused some safety concerns since 9-11.  It is possible to enter the area by car or boat without being easily detected.

We arrived back home after our six hour adventure.  And what an adventure it was!

This is the northernmost point in our 2017 summer travels.  When we leave Baudette we will head back south.

Next stop:. Leech Lake Recreation Area, MN

Voyageur National Park, MN June 25, 2017

Minnesota has certainly been cooler and wetter than we expected and things did not change as we moved from Ely northwest to Kabetogama, Minnesota and stayed at the Woodenfrog State Forest Campground.  We were there for two nights and both nights it got down into the forties.

After getting settled in our campsite we drove twenty five miles north to International Falls, population 6,400.  We were curious to see what the city was like and we were definitely underwhelmed considering it is a key port of entry and supply point for Ontario, Canada.  We drove to the International Bridge linking the United States and Canada and were disappointed to see just an ordinary bridge.  We didn’t even take a picture.  International Falls has a paper mill and there was a bad smell that permeated the area.

Next we visited the Smokey the Bear Park and found a geocache.  At 26 feet tall, made of steel and fiberglass and weighing 82 tons, it is the largest Smokey the Bear statue of its kind in the country.  It was unveiled in 1954.IMG_20170625_153902

We also found a geocache at Big Vic, a 30 foot statue of a voyageur, honoring the French-Canadian fur traders who once navigated the rivers and lakes in this rugged area of Minnesota.IMG_20170625_155855

Since we left Duluth we have had to rely on small local markets for groceries.  The choices are extremely limited and the prices high.  So I was happy to find that International Falls had a Super One grocery store and before heading back home we stopped for some groceries.

Our reason for coming to this area was to visit Voyageurs National Park, the only national park in Minnesota. The park is 218,000 acres with 30 lakes, 1,000 islands and 600 miles of bedrock shoreline between Minnesota and Canada.  There are four main lakes in the park which eventually drain into the Hudson Bay.  Lake levels are controlled by dams at the international border at Fort Frances, Ontario Canada and International Falls, MN as well as dams at Kettle Falls and Squirrel Falls on Namakan Lake.

Our campground was near the Kabetogama Visitors Center in Voyageurs National Park, one of three visitors centers.  The visitors centers are accessible for road, but the interior of the park is accessible only by water.IMG_20170625_143840  There are many resorts and private campgrounds near the park, but the campsites in the park are only accessible by boat.  We advance booked a boat tour since it is the only way to see the park.  In the summer the park can be accessed by motorboat, houseboat, canoe or  kayak.  In the winter it is accessible by snowmobile, snowshoe or cross country skis once the lakes freeze.  The Park Service plows miles of ice roads on Rainy Lake for ice fishing and wildlife viewing.  Voyageur National Park became a national park in 1975.

When we left the RV Monday morning to head to the boat it was 55 degrees, pretty chilly to be out on the water!  Not far from the campground Bill spotted a red fox on the side of the road, but it ran away before we could get a picture.

We boarded the pontoon boat with a park guide and a park employee driving the boat.20170626_09394120170626_09522120170626_135731  We were provided with binoculars  and a blanket which came in very handy for the next two hours.  We toured the park with views of Canada across the water.  We stopped at several locations to see bald eagles, birds and a loon which is the state bird of Minnesota.  IMG_20170626_101438IMG_20170626_105042IMG_20170626_10402220170626_10411620170626_111116IMG_20170626_111529IMG_20170626_141905IMG_20170626_144321IMG_20170626_144539We were amazed at all the bald eagle nests and the guide told us there are many more in the park we couldn’t spot.  We saw several fishing boats as well as some houseboats which the guide told us are available to rent from some concessionaires in the area.20170626_140950

We stopped at the Kettle Falls Hotel for lunch.  Built in 1913, the hotel was frequented by loggers, prospectors and commercial fishermen.  During Prohibition bootleggers took advantage of the hotel’s proximity to Canada and its remote location to smuggle liquor south of the border.  Legend has it that a Madam financed the construction of the hotel who later staffed the hotel with the “fancy ladies” who “entertained” the guests.  William E. “Big Ed” Rose, a timberman, sold his Kettle Falls holdings to Robert Sloan Williams in 1918 for $1000 and four barrels of whiskey. IMG_20170625_143924IMG_20170626_11585120170626_120145The hotel and restaurant was sold to the National Park service in 1977 and is operated jointly by the Park Service and a concessionaire.  The hotel is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  Kettle Falls got its name from the naturally formed kettles in the bedrock below the falls.  The kettles were formed by hard rock being swirled around soft rock over thousands of years.

The hotel restaurant was understaffed and it seemed to take forever to get served lunch.  While we waited we walked around the hotel.  We noticed the badly slanting floor in the bar area.  When the hotel was built the owner wanted it done as cheaply as possible so they did not build a foundation.  The clay soil often accumulates water which builds up and can become mushy over time, causing the earth to sink.  The hotel floor sank creating a sloping floor for the entire bottom level of the hotel.  IMG_20170626_123754When the Park Service renovated the hotel in the 1970’s they decided to repair the foundation of the floor but preserve the sloping in order to preserve the uniqueness of the hotel. The original hotel had eighteen guest rooms but since the National Park Service acquired the property and brought it up to fire code it now has twelve guest rooms.  It is still being used as a hotel today and they had one room open to visit.  The hotel’s original owner furnished the hotel with second hand furnishings or castaway items.  It really is a high class hotel…notice the box fan for air conditioning and the fly swatter on the wall.   The hotel is not open in the winter because there is no heat upstairs and there are no televisions or Wifi either.20170626_12391720170626_12393020170626_124007

After lunch our guide led us on a short walk to the Kettle Falls Dam.  IMG_20170626_134737The falls are now under the dam.  There is a stake in the ground showing the boundary of the United States and Canada.  IMG_20170626_134953When standing at the Kettle Falls overlook and looking towards the dam, it is one of the only places in the continental United States where you look south to Canada.

We then boarded the boat for the trip back.  While we were walking to the dam it started to lightly rain.  IMG_20170626_135647We have learned that bright blue skies in Minnesota in the morning does not guarantee a day without rain.  It was a very cold ride back even with a blanket and coats.  Even though the boat was covered we occasionally felt the rain and the ride back was sometimes  rocky.  We saw the Minnesota’s state bird the Common loon.IMG_20170626_151430 By the time we got back we had been gone for six hours, four of which was on the water.  IMG_20170626_150057We were cold and glad to get back on land and in the warm car.  On the way home we saw a doe and her fawn. IMG_20170626_155638 

Next stop: Baudette, MN