Category Archives: Hiking

hiking

Willcox, AZ OCT 30, 2017

After an overnight stop in Deming, New Mexico, we said a fond farewell to New Mexico and hello to Arizona.  We really enjoyed our two months in New Mexico and made many great memories, but the weather was getting colder and it was time to move on to warmer weather.  We crossed over the Continental Divide between Deming and Lordsburg, New Mexico, elevation 4,585 ft.  Unfortunately we passed by the sign too quickly to snap a picture.20171030_111505IMG_20171030_101204IMG_20171030_101248

 We knew for sure we had entered Arizona when we started seeing many signs on Interstate 10 warning of potential dust storms.  It seemed every few miles there were yellow dust storm warning signs followed by signs with advice on what to do if you encountered a dust storm. 20171030_110123 

Another way we knew we were near Mexico was when we passed through a border patrol checkpoint on I-10, even though we were really not that close to the border.  They photographed the vehicle as we slowly passed and the border patrol agent waved us through. We didn’t even have to come to a stop.

Our first stop was in Willcox where we stayed three nights at another nice Elks Lodge with electric and water hookups.  Willcox has a population of just over 3,700, a nice little town.  Cattle raising is important here as well as the cultivation of apples, peaches, pistachios, onions and tomatoes.  Willcox is also known for its vineyards.IMG_20171030_173757

On Tuesday we made the forty-five minute drive to Chiricahua National Monument.  This area is also called “Wonderland of Rocks” and was established as a monument in 1924 to protect the rocks. It exceeded our expectations and definitely had the WOW factor!  These lands were once owned by the Chiricahua Apaches who were led by the great Cochise.  Cochise led the Native American resistance to the white man’s advances during the 1860’s.IMG_20171031_132103

Twenty-seven million years ago violent eruptions from a nearby volcano covered the area with white hot ash and formed a twelve mile wide caldera.  The ash cooled and fused into an almost 2,000 foot layer of rock.  Over time erosion sculptured the rock into odd shaped rock pillars.

We stopped by the Visitors Center located in Bonita Canyon and saw a short movie on the area.IMG_20171031_134956

IMG_20171031_164731

This view is from the sun roof of our car

We drove the eight mile scenic drive where the rocks at times towered above us.  IMG_20171031_140534IMG_20171031_140718IMG_20171031_140831IMG_20171031_141535

We also took two hikes, both on rocky paths and we were glad we had our walking sticks.  IMG_20171031_143153IMG_20171031_143257IMG_20171031_143311IMG_20171031_144011IMG_20171031_143701IMG_20171031_144722IMG_20171031_144608IMG_20171031_144854IMG_20171031_150512IMG_20171031_145047

The views were amazing and reminded us of the magnificent national parks in Utah.  We especially enjoyed the balanced rocks and the grottoes, which are small cave like formations.IMG_20171031_152346IMG_20171031_154033IMG_20171031_155142IMG_20171031_155747IMG_20171031_160311IMG_20171031_160400

Next stop: Benson, AZ

Alamogordo, NM OCT 26, 2017

Leaving Lakewood on Thursday we headed west towards Alamogordo.  We again passed by the pumps pumping oil.  20171022_145029

We had to drive over the Cloudcroft summit, elevation 8,650 ft.  Due to the high elevation and the steep grade on the way down from the peak, we disconnected the car and I drove the car down the mountain.  I was able to snap a quick picture of Bill driving the RV through a tunnel on the way down.20171026_114759(0)

We arrived in Alamogordo and set up at the local friendly Elks Lodge where they have electric, water and sewer RV sites.  Alamogordo is home to the Holloman Air Force Base and much of the city’s industry is related to the Air Base and space travel.

After getting settled in we drove to the nearby New Mexico Museum of Space History. It is appropriate that the museum is here since this area of New Mexico is known as the cradle of America’s space program.  It was not the most extensive space museum we have ever been to, and some of the museum was under renovation and in disarray, but we enjoyed our visit.  IMG_20171026_13585920171026_14072320171026_140819

20171026_141214

This is the Elevator

On the grounds was the burial site of HAM, the first “Astrochimp”.  (Previously dogs and other animals had been launched by Soviets and NASA as merely passengers.) HAM was launched in a Mercury capsule on January 31, 1961.  Three months later the first manned flight was launched into space with Alan Shepard becoming the first American in space.   IMG_20171026_142931IMG_20171026_14294420171026_142947

We both enjoyed the Star Trek collection.20171026_150627IMG_20171026_151133IMG_20171026_151047

 Bill was especially interested in the Daisy Track.  It was used from 1955 to 1985 and was converted from rocket to air powered sled track. It was used to study the effects of acceleration, deceleration and impact on the human body of different equipment systems.  It was used for biological and mechanical research and testing for NASA’s Mercury space flights and the Apollo moon landings. It was used to test the idea of seat belts for automobile use.IMG_20171026_151629IMG_20171026_152437IMG_20171026_152827IMG_20171026_152907IMG_20171026_153025

Thursday evening was Wing Night at the Elks and we went over and had some wings in hot sauce, very hot sauce!

IMG_20171027_132702Friday we drove to White Sands National Monument.  Here, rare gypsum sands form beautiful white dunes that rise up to sixty feet above the Tularosa Basin floor at the northern end of the Chihuahuan Desert.  How were they formed?  Basically when the Permian Sea retreated millions of years ago, it left behind deep layers of gypsum fields.  Mountains rose and carried  the gypsum higher. The dunes were created when rain and melting snow dissolved gypsum from the surrounding mountains and carried it into Lake Lucero.  Desert heat evaporated the water, causing gypsum crystals to form.  Dry southwest winds exposed the crystals, eroding them into sand size particles that were blown to form the dunes.  

Today, wind, snow and rain continue the process.  Inches below the surface is water which prevents the dunes from blowing away.  At 275 square miles, White Sands is the world’s largest gypsum dune field.  It is truly like no other place on earth and one of the world’s great natural wonders.  People are allowed to go dune sledding here.  President Herbert Hoover declared it a national monument in 1933.  

We saw an interesting movie in the Visitors Center on how the dunes were formed and are ever changing.  Of particular interest was a description of how the animals such as lizards and rodents have adapted to the harsh, white environment by evolving to a white color to camouflage themselves from their enemies. IMG_20171027_132756 

This can be a surprisingly dangerous environment where it is easy to get lost and lose your bearings in all the whiteness.  A couple years ago a family visiting from France became disoriented on one of the trails on a hot day.  They had failed to bring enough water with them on the hike.  The parents died and their son survived because the parents gave their water to their son.  IMG_1517IMG_1519IMG_1521IMG_1522IMG_1526IMG_1532IMG_1544IMG_1552

We walked on a couple of the easier trails.  In the parking lot of one of the trails we noticed a vehicle with Virginia license plates so of course we had to stop and talk with them.  They were from Henrico County and had been traveling full time in their RV for four months.  We stood in the parking lot and chatted with them for about an hour, sharing our experience over the last four years.  Always excited to meet someone from my birth state.  We exchanged contact information so hopefully we will meet up with this nice couple sometime down the road.IMG_1557IMG_1563IMG_1553

Nearby is White Sands Missile Range where the Trinity Site is located.  It was here on July 16,1945 the first atomic bomb was detonated.  From 1945 to 1949 the German V2 rockets and their engineers assembled and tested their rockets here. In the 1960’s, testing for the lunar module engines that propelled Apollo astronauts off the moon’s surface was done here.  Today the facilities are used for radar, laser and flight research.IMG_20171026_145557

On Saturday Bill helped some men from the Elks replace some electrical power cables.  Some of the electrical outlets at various campsites were not working.  When the men came on Saturday morning to fix them, Bill went out to ask if they needed help.  They accepted his offer so he spent several hours helping them pull power cables underground. Their next step will be to connect up the RV sites to the new cables.

Next up: Willcox, Arizona

Carlsbad Caverns NP, NM OCT 24, 2017

We left Valley of Fires and headed towards Carlsbad Caverns.  We hadn’t planned on visiting Carlsbad but decided since we had some extra days to spend in New Mexico and the Caverns were fairly close, now was a good time.  In November, 2015 we stopped there on our way back home to Florida.  We discovered the elevator was broken and it is a very long uphill climb out of the Caverns if you can’t take the elevator!  We decided to skip the tour and visit another time.  We usually are up for the challenge but back then I had a chest cold and didn’t feel like the exertion it would take to hike out.

Along the way we passed oil pumps pumping oil before pulling into an Escapees RV Park called The Ranch.   Located in Lakewood, it is about 45 minutes from Carlsbad Caverns.  Without a doubt Escapees are the nicest and friendliest people you would ever want to meet.  Immediately upon our arrival, someone rang the big bell outside the office and people starting walking up to greet us and invite us to the afternoon Happy Hour.

The next morning we drove to Carlsbad Caverns which required us driving through the city of Carlsbad.  The traffic was really tedious with lots of traffic lights, none of which appeared to be synchronized.IMG_20171024_091223

Carlsbad Caverns, located in the Chihuahuan Desert of the Guadalupe Mountains, is one of the largest caves in the Western Hemisphere.  It is also one of deepest, longest and darkest caverns ever found.  It is considered to be the Eighth Wonder of the World.

We decided to take the self guided tour and our Golden Age Pass prevented us from having to pay a fee to enter the Caverns.  We did rent a headset in the bookstore with a narrated tour.  We began by hiking 1.25 miles into the cave through the Natural Entrance.  IMG_20171024_095652IMG_20171024_095833IMG_20171024_101434

We descended 800 feet which was very steep in places and gave our legs and knees quite a workout.IMG_20171024_103452IMG_20171024_104302IMG_20171024_120002

The chambers of the Caverns were beautiful, though not as colorful as caverns we have visited in other states.  The prevalent color was brown and it felt drier than other caves.  The highlight was The Big Room, which at 8.2 acres is one of the world’s largest and most accessible underground chambers.IMG_20171024_104318IMG_20171024_115037

IMG_20171024_124511

The ripples are from water dropping into the pool

IMG_20171024_124001

This one is called “Rock of the Ages”

Carlsbad Caverns is a sanctuary to several hundred thousand Mexican bats.  During the day they congregate together in a section of the Caverns called the Bat Cave.  As we passed through this area we could hear them.  Since they have started their winter migration, we did not see their nightly flight from the Caverns which can be seen at other times of the year.  Back in the 1800’s settlers explored the Caverns and used the huge deposits left behind by the bats, called guano, as natural fertilizer.  IMG_20171024_110532IMG_20171024_114854IMG_20171024_105122IMG_20171024_115309IMG_20171024_122844IMG_20171024_113549IMG_20171024_113850IMG_20171024_113946IMG_20171024_114210IMG_20171024_114307IMG_20171024_114825IMG_20171024_114907IMG_20171024_124653IMG_20171024_114358IMG_20171024_124844

In the early 1900’s a cowboy named Jim White was the first person to extensively explore the Caverns and led the first tours.  It is hard to comprehend what it must have been like for them to enter such a huge, dark abyss.  Today there are paved walkways and electric lights.  It is  also hard to grasp the labor that went into putting in those walkways and lights.  After first becoming a national monument, it became a national park in 1930.

After spending about three hours walking through the Caverns we took the elevator back up.  We were very happy to see it working this time!

The 1959 movie, “Journey to the Center of the Earth” was filmed here.

Next up: Alamogordo, NM

Valley of Fires, NM OCT 17, 2017

By the time we left Albuquerque we were really tired from all the early mornings and physical exertion from the Balloon Fiesta.  After filling the RV up with propane we headed south to Valley of Fires Recreation Area where we had a very nice electric and water site overlooking the lava fields.  This may be the youngest lava flow in the continental United States, with scientific evidence estimating that the most recent flow occurred 1,500 to 2,000 years ago.  The lava spewed from volcanic vents, covering the valley floor.  Occasionally it would surround areas of higher ground, forming islands called “kipukas”.  Our campground was located on a kipuka.

IMG_20171020_133558

The campground is surrounded by the lava field

20171020_124711

In the lava fields we hiked a very nice paved walkway where we saw lava, in some cases smooth like blocks and in other areas more ropy-looking.  20171020_13162120171020_13181020171020_132151

The lava is more than 160 feet thick near the center and covers over 125 square miles.  20171016_125532IMG_20171016_153241IMG_20171020_132521IMG_20171020_132545

We could see pressure ridges, collapsed lava bubbles, fissures, pits, collapsed lava tubes and rock shelters.  IMG_20171020_13034820171020_131158

We loved seeing all the cacti and plants growing among the lava.IMG_20171016_153322

Valley of Fires is located just outside of the town of Carrizozo, NM.  In the period between 1910 and 1920 it was a thriving railroad town and open for homesteading, with many railroad families claiming their 640 acres of free land.  With the modernization of railroad machinery and the introduction of new diesel engines, the need for the town’s railroad workforce was eliminated.  Today Carrizozo has a population of 940 and the town is showing signs of disrepair.  One of the main streets was used in a post apocalypse scene from the 2010 movie “The Book of Eli” with Denzel Washington.

IMG_20171017_132037We had planned to rest and relax here but we seem to always find things to do wherever we go!  Tuesday we drove an hour north to the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument.  This is made up of three pueblos and 17th century Spanish Franciscan missions.  The missions were abandoned in the late 17th century and the masonry ruins are surprisingly intact.  We first went to the Visitors Center to see a short film and view the exhibits.  

The three ruins, called the Abo Ruins, Gran Quivira Ruins and the Quarai Ruins, are within a thirty mile radius of each other.  Before the Spaniards came, these pueblos were major trade centers, with salt from the nearby salt lakes being an important trade commodity between the Pueblo and Plains Indians.  Between 1630 and 1680, Franciscan missionaries and Spanish colonists came and built churches using Indian labor and forced their religion and way of life on the Native Americans.  Drought, famine, disease and Apache raids were devastating on the Pueblo people.

IMG_20171017_133633First up was Quarai.  Here are remnants of church walls and remains of what was once a bustling Indian pueblo and Franciscan mission.  At one time the square was surrounded on three sides by blocks of stone houses three stories high.  Over 600 people hunted, farmed and traded goods and salt from nearby lake beds.  The first stone houses were built here around 1300.  By 1677, Quarai was deserted.20171017_13401420171017_13460220171017_134714IMG_20171017_135155

IMG_20171017_142306Next was the Abo Mission.  When the first Spanish priest walked into Abo in 1622, nothing would ever be the same for the Native Americans again.  Life as they knew it changed forever.  Artifacts uncovered from this area included a ceramic candlestick, mother-of-pearl cross and stone effigies all telling the story of conflicting religions.  We saw a large kiva, which is an underground meeting chamber for conducting religious ceremonies, teaching children, telling stories and weaving.  20171017_14271320171017_143008IMG_20171017_143044

The Franciscan priest supervised the construction of the massive church using Pueblo labor.  The walls were sandstone held together with mud mortar and plastered white with gypsum on the inside and whitewashed adobe on the outside.  When it was completed in 1651 it resembled the fortress churches in Mexico.IMG_20171017_142755

Last up was Gran Quivira, the largest of the pueblos.  At one time it was a village of more than twenty masonry house blocks and between 1,500 and 2,000 people.  There were approximately 300 rooms and six kivas.  They occupied this area for over 900 years.IMG_20171017_152715IMG_20171017_154304IMG_20171017_15442420171017_154902

20171018_131635Thursday we drove a short distance to the Three Rivers Petroglyph Site.  The Jornada Mogollon people carved more than 21,000 designs of humans, birds, animals, fish, insects, plants and geometric shapes in the basalt of the Three Rivers Valley in over 50 acres of the northern Chihuahuan Desert.  This area is one of the largest rock art sites in North America.  We followed a trail, somewhat challenging at times, through the desert looking at the petroglyphs and keeping a vigilant watch for rattlesnakes. 20171018_135949 

Thankfully we didn’t see any, but Bill did see a rattlesnake crossing the road across from our RV at the campground!  We only have a few pictures to show you because the pictures accidentally got deleted when transferring from the camera to the laptop.  Oh well, stuff happens sometimes!  

Here is a link to the BLM site where you can see some petroglyph pictures located at Flickr.

On Saturday we drove 45 minutes to Ruidoso to have lunch with Bill’s cousin Julie and her daughter.  Bill and Julie had not seen each other for 35 years!  We had a nice time catching up.IMG_20171021_145412

Next stop: A visit to Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Tent Rocks National Monument, NM SEPT 26, 2017

On Tuesday we drove just a few miles down the road to the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument.  The 4,645 acre Park was established in 2001 after being designated an Area of Critical Environmental Concern and is managed by the Bureau of Land Management.  IMG_20170926_104514

In order to access the Park you need to drive through the Pueblo de Cochiti Reservation.  Kasha-Katuwe means “white cliffs” in the native language of the Pueblos.  There is evidence of human occupation in the area for over 4,000 years with the first Pueblos in the 14th and 15th centuries. The cone or tent shaped rock formations were created 6 to 7 million years ago from volcanic eruptions of the Jemez volcano that left pumice, ash and volcanic rock over 1,000 feet thick.  The tent rock shapes can be up to 90 feet tall.  IMG_20170926_105103IMG_20170926_112330

Here we hiked two trails.  The first trail, the Slot Canyon Trail, was a difficult trail involving some difficult scrambling over rocks and rock climbing.  IMG_20170926_112341IMG_20170926_112403IMG_20170926_112552IMG_20170926_112908IMG_20170926_113609IMG_20170926_113748IMG_20170926_114018IMG_20170926_114603IMG_20170926_114706IMG_20170926_114800IMG_20170926_114826
I really enjoyed walking in the Slot Canyon but at one point I just didn’t have enough upper body strength and had to give up and let Bill go ahead while I waited.
IMG_20170926_114832IMG_20170926_114907IMG_20170926_114931

The second trail, the Cave Loop Trail was a shorter and easier trail.  IMG_20170926_122947IMG_20170926_123136IMG_20170926_123145IMG_20170926_123254IMG_20170926_123225IMG_20170926_123314IMG_20170926_123355IMG_20170926_123806

Bill found a snakeskin but luckily not the owner!  IMG_20170926_122942

We met a very nice couple from Ohio on the trail and enjoyed talking with them along the way.  Before heading home we drove to the Veterans’ Memorial Scenic Overlook with a beautiful view of the picturesque Peralta Canyon and Jemez Mountain peaks.IMG_20170926_124034IMG_20170926_124706IMG_20170926_132648IMG_20170926_132713IMG_20170926_134515

Next up: Albuquerque and the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta.IMG_20170926_104809

Cochiti Lake COE, NM SEPT 25, 2017

After a short stop in White Rock we headed to Cochiti Lake Corps of Engineering campground about thirty miles outside of Santa Fe. It was a beautiful drive.20170922_10594220170922_112220

Cochiti Lake is located on the Rio Grande, the fifth longest river in North America.  The name Cochiti comes from the Native Americans who have lived in the area for over seven hundred years.  We passed through several Indian reservations on our way from White Rock to Cochiti Lake.  Many had signs prohibiting photography.IMG_20170924_155357

Cochiti Lake has one of the ten largest earthen dams in the United States.  It is 5.5 miles long and is 251 feet tall to enclose water from the Rio Grande and Santa Fe Rivers.  We paid a visit to the Dam Visitors Center.  A couple from Martinsville, Virginia was also visiting and it was nice to meet someone from my birth state!IMG_20170924_154626

On Monday we drove into Santa Fe, the oldest (407 years) and highest (7,000 ft above sea level) capital city in the United States.  We were there in 2015 and you can read about that visit here: Santa Fe, NM May 23, 2015 IMG_20170925_130324

This visit we wanted to tour the state capitol building.  The original capitol building was the Palace of Governors built in 1609 on the Plaza and served the Spanish, Mexican and American governments.  This current capitol building was constructed in 1966 and is the only round state capitol building in the United States.  IMG_20170925_122655IMG_20170925_123033

The building design forms the Zia sun symbol, a design found on a 19th century water jar from the Zia Pueblo.  The sun with four rays symbolizes the four directions, the four seasons, the four times of the day (sunrise, noon, evening and night) and life’s four divisions (childhood, youth, adulthood and old age).  The circle represents the circle of life, without a beginning or end.IMG_20170925_124249

 The Zia also believed man has four sacred obligations: strong body, clear mind, pure spirit and devotion to the welfare of his people.  We enjoyed walking around looking at the beautiful Native American and southwestern artwork. 20170925_12333420170925_12352220170925_12455820170925_12484620170925_124950

Of particular interest was a buffalo head made completely out of recycled materials including old paintbrushes, paper-mache, scrap metal and movie film.IMG_20170925_124309IMG_20170925_124454IMG_20170925_124503

On the way to lunch we stopped by Cross of the Martyrs, a park that was once the site of Fort Marcy and has a spectacular view of Santa Fe.  The white cross commemorates 21 Franciscan priests killed during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680.IMG_20170925_131428

We had lunch at a local recommended Mexican restaurant.  We struggled to eat our lunch with the hot green chile sauce.  Can you see the pain on Bill’s face?20170925_135626IMG_20170925_135646

After lunch we drove several miles east to the Pecos National Historical Park.  The Park was formed in 1990 and had a Visitors Center with an interesting movie and exhibits.IMG_20170925_143622

The area has a rich history.  From 1350-1838 it was home to the powerful Pecos Pueblo with pueblos rising four to five stories high and home to 2,000 people, including 500 warriors.  In the 1540’s Spain tried to colonize the area and convert the people to Catholicism.  Coronado and his men searching for the seven cities of gold clashed with the powerful, determined Pecos.  In the early 1600’s Franciscan friars again tried to convert the Pecos, destroying kivas, smashing statues and banning Pueblo ceremonies.  In 1621 a friar arrived who acknowledged the Pueblo culture, language and beliefs while also trying to educate and convert them.  A large mission church was built, some of which is still standing and we were able to visit.20170925_14480720170925_15081820170925_150834

By the late 1700’s, drought, disease, migration and Comanche raids greatly decreased the Peso population and by 1838 the last of the inhabitants had moved from the region.  From 1915-1929 archeological excavations of the site were done to study and save the remnants of six hundred plus years of human occupation.20170925_15153020170925_15164720170925_15173820170925_15191220170925_152648IMG_20170925_152117IMG_20170925_152609IMG_20170925_152011

In 1925, a man purchased 5,500 acres and created the Forked Lightning Ranch which was sold in 1941 to Buddy Fogelson, husband of actress Greer Garson.  In 1991 Greer Garson sold the ranch to a Conservation Fund which then donated it to the National Park Service.20170925_150917

There is always work to do!

Santa Fe facts:

  • Population of 82,800 (Santa Fe county is 147,423)
  • 37 square miles (Santa Fe county is 121,298 square miles)
  • Averages 325 days of sunshine a year
  • USA Today Readers’ Choice named it one of Top Historic Cities in the U.S.

Riana-Abiquiu COE, NM SEPT 12, 2017

After a very enjoyable stay in Eagle Nest, we traveled west and crossed Palo Flechado Pass, elevation 9,109 feet.  After a gradual descent we continued through the Carson National Forest and then followed the Rio Grande River further west.  The scenery, especially the red rocks, was absolutely breathtaking.IMG_20170914_152356

We arrived at the Riana-Abiquiu Campground COE located near Abiquiu (AH-be-cue) in northern New Mexico, about an hour northwest of Santa Fe.  This is a very nice Corps of Engineers campground with a few electric and water hookups.  We did not have a reservation and hoped to get a first come first serve electric campsite, so we hoped arriving early on a Sunday would help.  When we arrived the campground was pretty full and we were not sure they would have an electric site for us.  Bill was talking to the campground host who assigns the available sites.  The subject of football came up and the host mentioned he loved the Redskins.  Bill said his wife loved the Redskins too.  The host said in that case, he just had to get us a good site.  We ended up with an electric and water site with a beautiful view of the 5,200 acre Abiquiu Lake, the northern most flood control reservoir in New Mexico.  Never expected being a Redskins fan would help me in New Mexico.  Strange, small world!IMG_20170913_144811

The host also told Bill to be careful of rattlesnakes.  He said people and dogs had been bitten, to be careful in the park bathrooms as they had been seen there, and advised against wearing flip flops.  Great, just great.  My one and only phobia and he had to tell us that news.

From our RV we could see Cerro Pedernal, a distinctive flat top mesa rising 9,862 feet.  This was Georgia O’Keefe’s favorite subject to paint.IMG_20170917_105253

One day we drove to the nearby Abiquiu Dam Visitors Center with exhibits on the Dam, area history and natural resources of the area.  Farming and ranching in the area is made possible through flood control and irrigation provided by Abiquiu Dam.  Most of the water is headed to Albuquerque, but irrigation ditches provide water to the area’s arid land.IMG_20170913_142324IMG_20170913_144834

On another day we spent the day touring northern New Mexico.  The geological beauty of the spectacular red cliffs, rock formations and mesas is enough to take your breath away and bring tears to your eyes.  This area was the inspiration for much of the work of Georgia O’Keefe and inspired her to leave New York City and make her home in New Mexico.IMG_20170914_152505IMG_20170916_135747IMG_20170916_135825IMG_20170916_135901IMG_20170916_140014IMG_20170916_140022

We stopped by Ghost Ranch where O’Keefe owned a summerhouse and painted scenes of the area.  It was formerly a 21,000 acre ranch but is now a Presbyterian education and retreat center. The movie “3:10 to Yuma” was filmed extensively at Ghost Ranch.IMG_20170916_142106IMG_20170916_140240IMG_20170916_140405

In the distance we could see Chimney Rock, a well known landmark.IMG_20170916_141145IMG_20170916_141156

Next we drove to the nearby Echo Amphitheater where a natural walled area of sandstone creates an echo chamber.IMG_20170916_142810IMG_20170916_144113IMG_20170916_144620IMG_20170916_145343

We finished the day at Plaza Blanca (White Place), made famous by Georgia O’Keefe’s paintings.  The area is actually on the grounds of a mosque, but they welcome visitors to hike and enjoy the amazing landscape of 60 foot tall towering white stone pillars and hoodoos.  The 2011 movie “Cowboys and Aliens” was filmed here.IMG_20170916_153832IMG_20170916_154405IMG_20170916_154411IMG_20170916_154632IMG_20170916_154713IMG_20170916_155037

Along with sightseeing we spent many relaxing, fun days just enjoying the gorgeous scenery from our RV windows.IMG_20170913_144938

Interesting tidbits:

  • Abiquiu is known among New Mexican Hispanics as a former dwelling place of witches.  Many tales are told by the local villagers about witches that still roam Abiquiu.  In the mid 1760’s there was an outbreak of witch hysteria in the area.
  • Kit Carson was among one of the first Anglo-Americans to arrive in the area.  He served as an Indian agent at Abiquiu.

Federal Dam, MN June 29, 2017

We left Baudette under sunny skies and warmer temperatures and headed south.  Baudette was the northernmost campground location for our 2017 summer travels.

We talked about stopping in Bemidji to see the huge statue of Paul Bunyan and his Blue Ox.  Remember, legend has it that Blue Ox stomping through Minnesota is what caused the 10,000+ lakes to form.  20170701_124032We decided it wasn’t worth taking the RV towing the car off our route into Bemidji just to see a couple statues.  As luck would have it a bridge was out and we had to take a detour.  The detour took us right past the Bunyan and Blue Ox statues so I snapped a picture out of the window of the RV as we drove past.  20170629_115757We also noticed a sign saying that Bemidji was the first city on the Mississippi. 20170629_120000The Mississippi River is still narrow here approximately thirty miles from the Mississippi Headwaters.20170629_115833

We arrived at Leech Lake Recreation Area – Corps of Engineers Park, located in the very small city of Federal Dam MN.  Bill booked far enough ahead to get one of the few full hook up sites.  Leech Lake is Minnesota’s third largest inland lake and is located in the Chippewa National Forest.  One of three area Ojibwe Indian reservations is located at Leech Lake.IMG_20170630_211534IMG_20170630_211135IMG_20170630_211153

I was needing to do laundry and I was thrilled to find the campground had a laundry facility with what looked like new washers and dryers.  The best part was the washers and dryers were free!

IMG_20170701_114544While staying at Leech Lake we drove an hour to Itasca State Park near Park Rapids.  The park was established in 1891, making it Minnesota’s first state park.  It is the second oldest state park in the United States with only Niagara Falls State Park being older.IMG_20170701_134548

The park contains 32,690 acres, 220 campsites, cabins for rent as well as lodging at the historic Douglas Lodge.  Our main reason for visiting this park is because it is the headwaters of the Mississippi River.  With its source being Lake Itasca, it is here the Mississippi River begins its 2,552 journey to the Gulf of Mexico.  Minnesota has 694 miles of the Mississippi River, more than any other state.  It drains water into the Mississippi River from half the state.20170701_14120120170701_141037

We first stopped at the beautiful Visitors Center with many exhibits on the animals and plants in the park as well as the history of the area.  They had a nice display area honoring the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC).  The CCC program in Minnesota alone trained 84,000 men in job skills and conservation.   They worked forty hours a week and were paid $30 a month of which $25 was sent home to help their families.  The remaining $5 could be used by the men for personal items.   They also received medical and dental care.  The Visitors Center also had informative displays about the mighty Mississippi River.IMG_20170701_121902IMG_20170701_122224

We drove the Main Park Drive as well as the ten mile paved Wilderness Drive throughout the park stopping at several interesting exhibits.

At the headwaters of the Mississippi River is a 44 foot long outlet dam so tourists can wade across the river in shallow water.  IMG_20170701_143658IMG_20170701_144132IMG_20170701_144204IMG_20170701_144248IMG_20170701_145220There is also a bridge constructed of one big log.IMG_20170701_144000

Approximately 7-8,000 years ago Native Americans hunted in this region.  They ambushed bison, deer and moose at the animals’ watering holes and killed them with stone tipped spears.  20170701_122016There is a bison kill site uncovered in 1937 during the construction of Wilderness Drive.  Ancient bison bones dating back 8,000 years ago were unearthed as well as knives, spears and scrapers.  A large skull is on display at the park Visitors Center.  20170701_122159We stopped by the bison dump site but there is nothing to see there today. We could imagine bison grazing at the watering hole with Indians approaching.

Five hundred to a thousand years ago Woodland Indians lived in this region.  They made clay pots and hunted with bows and arrows.  Their burial mounds are at the Itasca Indian Cemetery.  There is nothing really to see here either. Just a pathway with fencing on each side of over grown grassy areas.20170701_135920

In 1832 explorer Henry Schoolcraft, with the help of an Ojibwe guide, found the source of the Mississippi River at Lake Itasca.  He named the lake Itasca from the Latin words “truth” and “head”.20170701_121456

We stopped by a replica of the pioneer store and homestead site from the late nineteenth century, home of Theodore and Johanna Wegmann, early park pioneers.IMG_20170701_130918

There was also a Pioneer Cemetery with the graves of over a dozen early Itasca homesteaders.20170701_125946

In the late nineteenth century concerns over logging and the need to protect the pine forests for the enjoyment of future generations led to the establishment of the state park.  The park includes the virgin red pine, Minnesota’s state tree.  Some of the red pine in the park are over two hundred years old.  This park is one of the few places in the state that has preserved these pines from destruction.

Retreating glaciers 10,000 years ago left 157 lakes in the 3,000 acre park of different sizes.

Overpopulation of white-tailed deer is a problem in the park with a deer density of 15 to 17 per square mile compared with 4-10 per square miles in other areas.  Annual deer hunts have been held since 1940 in an attempt to curb the deer population.

In the winter the average temperature is -4 F with average snowfall amounts of 54.6 inches!

What a wonderful day in a beautiful park!

IMG_20170701_173606On the way home we stopped in Akeley to see another Paul Bunyan statue.  This one is over thirty feet tall!  It was erected in 1984.  Akeley advertises itself on its welcome sign as the birthplace of Paul Bunyan.  Interesting since Paul Bunyan is a folklore hero.  Seems at least ten towns from Maine to Wisconsin to Michigan to Minnesota claim the same thing.  Apparently blatant attempts to increase tourism, but it got us to stop.  And we did buy gas while we were there, so they got us!  And you really can’t blame a small town with a population of 1,100 to use tricks to get tourist dollars.  At least they didn’t charge us admission!

Our last day in Leech Lake, with the arrival of July 1st, Minnesota, the land of 10,000 lakes turned into the state from hell.  Mosquitoes arrived with a vengeance.  Our last night in Leech Lake Bill killed over thirty mosquitoes INSIDE the RV!  We hope as we head south away from the lakes the number of mosquitoes will decrease.

Next stop: Aitkin, MN as we continue south

Mississippi River Facts:

  • The Mississippi is the fourth longest river in the world.  Many small rivers and streams flow into the Mississippi with the Missouri and Ohio Rivers being the largest.  Together all these connected rivers and streams make up the largest river system in North America with a combined waterway length of more than 15,000 miles.  The Mississippi River drains water from 31 states and two Canadian provinces.  It begins as a small stream at Itasca State Park and is over two miles wide by the time it reaches the Gulf of Mexico.IMG_20170701_120913
  • A raindrop that falls in Lake Itasca will arrive at the Gulf of Mexico in about 90 days.IMG_20170701_120817
  • The length of the Mississippi has been shortened over time by over 200 miles due to channelization.
  • The river is 1,475 feet above sea level at Itasca State Park and at sea level when it enter the Gulf of Mexico.  Over half the elevation drop occurs in the first third of the journey before it leaves Minnesota.
  • The average surface speed of the river is 1.2 miles per hour.
  • Although the air temperature in the winter may reach -40 F, the rocky headwaters where the water flows from the lake into the river rarely freezes over because springs feed enough water into the lake so the river flows all year.
  • The volume of water leaving Lake Itasca is six cubic feet per second, about a bathtub full of water per second.  The volume of water when it reaches the Gulf of Mexico is 468,000 cubic feet per second, about 80,000 times more than when it started.
  • The Mississippi River watershed drains 41% of the continental United States, between 1.2 and 1.8 million square miles.
  • The Mississippi River touches ten states.

Grand Marais, MN June 18, 2017

We left Duluth and drove up the North Shore Scenic Drive to Grand Marais, forty miles from the Canadian border.  Grand Marais, population 1,351 is a beautiful town situated on Lake Superior.  It has a summer vacation destination vibe with small tourist shops, restaurants, a few hotels and tons of gorgeous scenery.  There are no fast food restaurants or big stores located in Grand Marais.  Like the rest of Minnesota, it is a fisherman’s dream come true.20170619_13432920170619_134220IMG_20170619_133607

We stayed at a city campground/marina with beautiful water views.  The campground was a short walk from the small downtown area.  One day we strolled downtown and wandered along the waterfront.  Bill had a great fish lunch at the Dockside Fish Market where you can buy lunch or pick up fresh fish to take home.  Bill had fish and chips with what he said was delicious whitefish.  The only way to get it fresher was to go out with your own fishing pole!20170619_14221620170619_130722IMG_20170620_103636

Tuesday we drove forty miles up to Grand Portal State Park located right at the US/Canadian border. IMG_20170620_113532 In fact when we turned into the entrance to the park we could see the border crossing just ahead and the welcome to Minnesota sign for those arriving from Canada.  The state park, established in 1989, is actually located on the Grand Portage Indian Reservation.  The Native Americans lease the land to the state of Minnesota for $1 a year.IMG_20170620_114509IMG_20170620_11462620170620_114528

Our purpose for coming here was to see the High Falls, which at 120 feet is the tallest waterfall in Minnesota.  To view the Falls we walked an easy half mile along a beautiful boardwalk through a forest setting.IMG_20170620_120159

The High Falls were gorgeous and we could see the Pigeon River which is part of the international border between Canada and the United States.  Here, the Pigeon River is twenty miles of a series of treacherous cascades and waterfalls on its way to Lake Superior, making this section of the river completely unnavigable.  For this reason a “Grand Portage” was necessary.  In this case, the Portage consisted of a 8.5 mile foot path used to carry boats and supplies from Lake Superior to the Pigeon River.  It was followed by voyageurs (French for travelers) to Port Charlotte and the boundary waters separating Minnesota and Canada. Through this portage passed all the trade goods from Montreal and furs from the Canadian Northwest.  Along this 8.5 mile path voyageurs carried two 90 pound packs as well as their canoes.IMG_20170620_12132720170620_122501

Native Americans were the first to develop and use the portal from Lake Superior inland for centuries.  The Ojibwe called the portage “The Great Carrying Place”.  The Ojibwe people frequently traveled the portage carrying birch bark canoes and baskets of fish, garden seed, wild rice, and copper. The two oldest copper sites in North America come from the Lake Superior basin. When the French traders came in the 17th century the Native Americans showed them the portage which they then used to transport goods from large lake canoes to smaller canoes.  The Grand Portage was the earliest European presence in the Great Lakes region with the first documented travel along the Grand Portage in 1731.20170620_13211820170620_132407IMG_20170620_132421

Next we stopped at the nearby Grand Portage National Monument.  We saw an excellent movie on the history of the area, with an emphasis on the Native American viewpoint.  The Visitors Center also had interesting exhibits and displays.  We then walked down the hill to a reconstructed Ojibwe village and Voyageur Encampment reconstructed based on archeological excavations.  The furnishings are in the 1797 style.  The settlement consisted of a stockade, great hall, kitchen and warehouse.IMG_20170620_131434IMG_20170620_13163320170620_13192920170620_14022520170620_14021020170620_14042520170620_13590520170620_135926

In 1763 after the French and Indian War, France ceded Canada to Great Britain and the British took control of the fur trade away from the French. From 1784 to 1803 the North West Company, owned by Highland Scots, ran a very profitable fur trading operation in the Great Lakes area.  The company’s headquarters was located at Grand Portage and was the largest fur trade depot on the continent.  It was a profitable time for the Europeans as well as the Native Americans.  They got along well and traded goods each needed.  The Native Americans taught them how to build birch bark canoes and traded pelts and their immense knowledge of the area for glass beads, wool clothing, kettles, axes, firearms and liquor.  20170620_143240IMG_20170620_141537Some of the voyageurs even married Native American women.  Much of the settlement was empty most of the year as the men were out hunting, but every July they held the Rendezvous, an annual gathering when furs from wintering posts in Canada were delivered to Grand Portage.  20170620_13220820170620_132532

Hundreds of vogageurs came to the Grand Portage and it was a time of great celebration for the voyageurs as well as the Native Americans.  The North West Company shipped fur pelts originating from over 100 trading posts through the Grand Portage.  In the 1700 and early 1800’s, fur pelts were used for fashionable clothing.  Furs for hats made up more than 65% of all English fur imports.  Beaver pelts accounted for over 60% of total pelts traded in one season during the height of the Grand Portage between 1785-1802. The use of beaver pelts for hats severely depleted the beaver population in North America, Europe and Russia.  In 1793 alone 182,000 beaver pelts passed through the Grand Portage.  Beaver was considered the highest quality fur. The Rendezvous was when the voyageurs received their pay for the past year’s work and once the celebration ended the trappers headed out for another season of travel and trade.

The North West Company left the Grand Portage in 1803 when the new United States claimed the area in a border agreement with Canada.  The Company knew possibly doing business with the new United States led to issues of citizenship, licensing and import duties they wanted to avoid.  Their leaving the area after years of profitable trade with the Indians led to hard times for the Native Americans in what they called “The Starving Times”.IMG_20170620_143357

In the early 1800’s there was an intense and sometimes violent rivalry between the North West Company and the Hudson Bay Company for business.  The two companies merged in 1821 into the Hudson Bay Company.

In 1958 the Grand Portage Band of the Minnesota Chippewa tribe donated the land to the United States and it became a national monument.

On our last morning in Grand Marais, Bill took some great pictures of a sunrise and found a beaver friend swimming in the bay.IMG_20170621_050124IMG_20170621_050938IMG_20170621_050329
IMG_20170621_050333

IMG_20170621_050345

Beavers like to slap the water every now and then

IMG_20170621_051819

Here are two videos for you to select and view:


Next stop: Ely, Minnesota

Duluth, MN Part 2, June 16, 2017

On Friday we decided to drive from Duluth on what is called the North Shore Scenic Drive on Rt 61 along the shoreline of Lake Superior.  It was a beautiful day to enjoy the drive and the gorgeous scenery.IMG_20170616_120840

The Drive is 150 miles long from Duluth to Thunder Bay, Ontario with views of Lake Superior, glacier carved Sawtooth Mountains and Superior National Forest.  Along the way we suddenly spotted Bigfoot!!20170618_121048

We decided to only drive 55 miles and work our way back while stopping at points of interest.  Our first stop was at Tettegouche State Park where we took a short hike to an overlook with views of Lake Superior.20170618_12140820170618_124208

We had a picnic lunch at Palisade Head, an overlook 200 feet above Lake Superior.  We drank in the amazing views while enjoying lunch.IMG_20170616_123410IMG_20170616_123656

After lunch we found a geocache and Bill found a new friend!IMG_20170616_130011

IMG_20170616_132106Next we passed through the tiny towns of Silver Bay and Beaver Bay before stopping at Split Rock Lighthouse. The lighthouse, said to be the most visited spot on the North Shore, sits atop a sheer cliff 150 feet above Lake Superior and is one of the best preserved and most visited lighthouses in the country.  Split Rock Lighthouse was put into service in 1910.  It was built by the federal government because of a disastrous 1905 storm that sank or damaged 29 ships on Lake Superior.  This lighthouse was completely built from the lakeside because there were no roads at that time.  20170616_143221IMG_20170616_134424IMG_20170616_133838IMG_20170616_134226

IMG_20170616_134207

This is the light mechanism

In 1969 the lighthouse was decommissioned and deeded to the state of Minnesota.  It is a National Historic Landmark.  For a fee you can tour the lighthouse, a fog signal building, an oil house, three keepers’ houses, and storage barns.  The lighthouse and buildings appear as they did in the 1920’s.

Split Rock is also a 2,057 acre Minnesota state park but the lighthouse is maintained by the Minnesota Historical Society.

Then we drove to Gooseberry Falls State Park so we could hike to Gooseberry Falls.  It was an easy hike to the two beautiful falls.IMG_20170616_15110320170616_151055IMG_20170616_151957

On the way home we stopped at the Two Harbors Lighthouse which is now a bed and breakfast and the only operating lighthouse in Minnesota.  Built in 1892, it is on the National Register of Historic Places.IMG_20170616_104947

It was a really great day with three state parks, two lighthouses, a beautiful overlook and some amazing scenery.

IMG_20170617_115916Saturday, our last day in Duluth, we drove across the bridge to Wisconsin.  We wanted to visit Pattison State Park thirteen miles south of Superior, Wisconsin.  The park is the location of Big Manitou Falls, which at 165 feet is the highest falls in Wisconsin and the fourth largest waterfall east of the Rockies.  It is said to be the same height as Niagara Falls, just a lot skinnier.

We had to walk in a tunnel under the road and then it was an easy hike to the viewpoints.  The water flows from the Black River and gets its dark color from decaying leaves and roots of vegetation.20170617_115205IMG_20170617_115227IMG_20170617_115621

Here is a video below we made of the falls.

After viewing the falls we found a geocache hidden in a tree.20170617_121638

This state park was very pretty with 80+ handcrafted stone and log buildings and structures built in the 1930’s by the CCC.  We really enjoyed this park, as well as the three Minnesota state parks we visited the day before, all possible because of the hard work of the young men of the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps).

We enjoyed our six days in Duluth.  There were lots of things left to do.  Until next time!

Lake Superior facts:

  • Lake Superior is the largest freshwater lake in the country, bigger than all the other Great Lakes combined. It is 350 miles long, 160 miles wide and has a surface area of 31,700 square miles
  • It contains 10% of the world’s fresh water with a volume of 440 trillion cubic feet
  • Average depth is 439 feet, with its deepest depth at 1,333 feet
  • Average water temperature is 42 degrees
  • There has been over 350 shipwrecks with more than 1,000 souls lost
  • Last time Lake Superior completely froze over was 1997, it was 90% frozen in 2013

Next stop:. Grand Marais, MN