Tasermiut Fjord & Nanortalik, Greenland July 27 2024

As expected, our first port stop in Paamiut, Greenland was canceled due to high winds and unsafe tendering conditions. Instead, Captain Frank spent the day doing scenic cruising in the  44 mile long Tasermiut Fjord. It turned out to be a fantastic day of high mountain peaks with vertical walls, magnificent glaciers and majestic icebergs.

Passing through the Fjord, it was quiet, peaceful and serene as we slowly glided along, marveling at the wonders of nature.

We could sit inside and listen to the Cruise Director’s narration, or stand outside on various decks or our own balcony to observe all the beauty around us. The hard working crew passed out hot chocolate in the morning. 

In the evening, Captain Frank dropped anchor at our next port of call in preparation for the next day’s visit.  By the way, sunset in this region is around 10:30 PM with sunrise around 5:30 AM. 

Sunday, the 28th dawned bright and sunny with temperatures in the upper 30’s. This was a tender port and we were able to get on a boat with no wait. We were excited to step onto Greenland soil, a bucket list item for a long time.

Nanortalik, Greenland, pop 1,185, is located in southern Greenland. The name Nanortalik means “place of polar bears” and they have been known to walk through the town in early summer. Due to its location, it is one of the first parts of Greenland settled by the Vikings. The main source of income is fishing and seal hunting. It is a depressed area with little trade, no factories or large scale fishing. For several months of the year, ice buildup prevents fishing. There are no roads outside of the town so the only access to the outside world is by plane or boat.

We spent time wandering around the town. We saw few people out on this Sunday morning. As we walked towards the church we saw a few people headed down the hill, apparently just leaving church. What struck us most were all the colorful homes. Research told me the colorful homes date back to the 18th century Scandinavian colonial era. There are no house numbers or street names so the colors each have a specific meaning. Red buildings were schools, teachers’ or ministers’ houses. Yellow was hospitals, doctors and health care. Blue was fish factories and police were black.

We also noticed the beautiful wildflowers and the huge rocks. We found a geocache, thrilled we could log a geocache in Greenland. 

The church had a $5 admission fee which we gladly paid. The church was built in 1916 and is the only church in the town. It also has the oldest organ in Greenland, built by a Danish firm in 1861.

By the way, Greenland is part of the Kingdom of Denmark. However the Greenland people have been allowed to develop and run their own political system. The monarch of Denmark has executive power but it is mostly in a ceremonial capacity. The Danish krone is Greenland’s official currency.

Next up : cruising St Christian’s Sound and Isafjordur, Iceland 

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