Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, AZ NOV 28, 2017

We left Casa Grande and headed south to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument which is seven miles from the Mexican border.  Along the way we passed fields of cotton. 20171128_09342620171128_114235 

We settled in for a three night stay at the National Monument campground  called Twin Peaks (no utilities at their campsites).  Normally we get enough power from our solar panels but it was overcast the entire three days so we had to run our generator twice a day for about 45 minutes to charge the batteries completely.

After getting settled we drove over to the Visitors Center where we watched a movie about the park.  The National Monument is a 516 square mile “biosphere reserve” of rare cacti located in the Sonoran Desert.20171128_14435520171128_150935

One afternoon we drove along part of the southern boundary of the National Monument on the Puerto Blanco Drive which borders Mexico for 31 miles.  We could see some of the wall separating the United States and Mexico in the distance, but were shocked to see this “border” along the boundary of the National Monument!  IMG_1664IMG_1678IMG_1682

We looked and then asked each other if that could really be the only thing separating the two countries??  About that time a Border Patrol vehicle with two border agents came by and stopped to ask us if we were okay.  We asked if that was really the border fence.  They said yes and we commented on what a hard job they have and thanked them for their service.IMG_1669IMG_1675

We drove for about an hour and many many border patrol vehicles passed us as well as helicopters flying overhead.  What a tough and dangerous job they have.  A park brochure said the smuggling of drugs and humans goes on in the park.  In 2013 there were over 4,000 arrests and approximately 100,000 pounds of marijuana seized just in the National Monument alone!  At the Visitirs Center is a monument to a young park ranger named Kris Eggle who was killed in 2002 while attempting to apprehend illegal aliens. The National Monument Visitors Center is named the Kris Eggle Visitors Center in his memory. 20171128_144144 

It was not unusual to see signs like this in the park.  Our first day in the National Monument we talked with a Park Ranger driving through the park and asked him about safety concerns.  He told us most smugglers and migrants want to avoid detection and therefore avoid contact with people.  But we did take extra precautions at the campsite and while hiking.20171128_151319

Speaking of hiking, we learned if we walked at least five miles in the park we would earn a park pin.  We kept track of our hikes and on the last day we stopped by the Visitors Center and picked up our pins. We were pretty proud of them.20171130_152004

During our stay we took several nice hikes which were relatively easy except we had to walk on very rocky trails.  A little hard on the feet but at least I didn’t have to do any rock scrambling which I detest.  20171129_115334IMG_1622IMG_1628IMG_1645IMG_1649IMG_1652

We learned about the various types of cacti, including the organ pipe cactus for whom the park is named. It is easy to see why they are called organ pipe. IMG_1610 

This area is the furthest they grow north of Mexico and the only place they grow in large stands in the United States.  

IMG_1608

These Organ Pipe Cacti Grow On the South Side of the Ridge

On one hike we came across the remnants of an old homestead and corral.IMG_1653IMG_1655IMG_1657

Our second day in the National Monument we drove a scenic road called the Ajo Mountain Drive that wound along the foothills of the Ajo Mountain Range for 21 miles.  It was a dirt and gravel road and our car was really dusty by the time we finished!  The Ranger at the Visitors Center gave us a driving guide that explained various stops along the way.IMG_1619IMG_1631

While we were very happy not to see any snakes, we were disappointed we did not see any wildlife other than birds. We were especially disappointed we did not hear any coyotes at night.  We always heard them while in Tucson and felt certain we would hear them in this very remote park.

Here is the view of the border crossing.IMG_1683IMG_1684

When we left the National Monument we drove through the tiny village of Why.  Next to a gas station we saw a coyote and stopped to take his picture.  Normally they are shy and hard to take their picture.20171201_101028

Next stop: Yuma, AZ where we will be for seven weeks through the Christmas and New Year holidays.

Cactus facts:

  • A Saguaro cactus’ first arm appears at between 95-100 years of age.  It reaches its full height with two or more arms at 200 years of age!IMG_1644
  • Average height of the organ pipe cactus at maturity is fifteen feet.
  • They were named organ pipe by the early settlers who thought they looked like church organ pipes.
  • The organ pipe cactus produces its first flowers at around 35 years of age.
  • Organ pipe cactus, unlike saguaros, live around 150 years.

Casa Grande, AZ NOV 21, 2017

We arrived in Casa Grande for a relaxing twelve day stay at the Fiesta Grande RV Resort.  We stayed here in December 2013 when passing through the area.

On Saturday we drove to Phoenix to tour the state capitol building.  The traffic in Phoenix is terrible, even on a Saturday morning.  

IMG_20171118_104614

Phoenix Skyline

The capitol building is not the prettiest capitol we have seen and didn’t have beautiful architecture and paintings compared to other capitols. But it had one of the friendliest security guards we had encountered who went out of his way to be helpful.

It is the only capitol building we have been in that is a museum and not a working building.  Due to overcrowding, additions were built on either side of the museum for the House of Representatives and Senate to conduct business and the capitol building became a museum.  The museum capitol was built from Arizona rock, stone and granite, opened in 1901 and served as the terrorial capitol until Arizona became the 48th state in 1912.  On top is a copper dome with a large weathervane in the shape of Nike, the Greek goddess of victory.20171118_121342IMG_20171118_121053

In 1923 the large tile mosaic of the State Seal was laid.  Unfortunately the artist lived in Ohio and had never seen the Arizona State Seal before.  He was only furnished with a written description and some drawings.  When the tile mosaic was laid, it was missing the cow to the right of the miner. IMG_20171118_115343 

The artist offered to fix the mistake but it was determined to be too difficult to take up the tile to fix the mistake.  The motto Ditat Deus means God Enriches.  The sun rising symbolizes Arizona’s climate and the reservoir and dam represents water reclamation farming.  The irrigated fields of cotton and citrus trees symbolizes Arizona’s rich agriculture.  The quartz mill and miner represents Arizona’s mining industry.IMG_20171118_112136

We enjoyed walking through the museum with four floors of comprehensive exhibits on the history of Arizona.  The Miranda warning law used today was a result of the Miranda v. Arizona court case when a man by the last name of Miranda was arrested in Phoenix, not read his rights and was later convicted.  The case was taken all the way to the U.S. Supreme Court.20171118_114725

The Arizona State flag is divided into two parts.  The top half has thirteen alternating red and yellow rays representing the thirteen original colonies.  Because Arizona is a western state, the rays show a setting sun.  The red and yellow colors refer to the Spanish flags carried by Coronado when he came to Arizona in the sixteenth century.20171118_113635

The large copper colored star in the center identifies Arizona as the largest producer of copper in the United States.  The bottom half of the flag is solid blue, same as the blue in the United States flag.IMG_20171118_114044

The friendly security guard offered to allow us access to a part of the museum currently off limits to the public and under renovation.  Inside the large room were silver items originally on the battleship U.S.S. Arizona which had been removed before it was destroyed in Pearl Harbor. 20171118_120431 

There was also a model of the ship and a hull recovered from the ship.20171118_120606

20171118_120543

A piece of the Arizona Battleship

In front of the capitol are pieces of petrified wood found in the state.20171118_121201

On the way back to the car we stopped by a park dedicated to veterans and pioneers.20171118_12154320171118_12162720171118_12183420171118_12191620171118_122112IMG_20171118_121558
We also looked at a Confederate troops memorial.

IMG_20171118_12193220171118_122518

IMG_20171118_121932(1)

A Nation That Forgets Its Past Has No Future

While in Casa Grande we also celebrated Bill’s birthday on November 22nd and joined in a Thanksgiving dinner with others at the RV park.20171123_13284520171123_132856IMG_20171127_174229

It has been hot and dry.  We heard the weatherman out of Phoenix say they have not had rain in 100 days.

Next stop: Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument.

Tucson, AZ Part 2, NOV 15, 2017

While we were in Tucson we visited Saguaro (sa-WAH-row) National Park.  They are actually two districts to the park:  Saguaro West-Tucson Mountain District and Saguaro East-Rincon Mountain District.  The two districts are separated by Tucson and are about thirty miles apart.  Together, they preserve over 91,000 acres of the Sonoran Desert, including the saguaro cactus. The saguaro cactus, the supreme symbol of the American Southwest, has been protected in the park since 1933.  When we visited Tucson in December, 2013 we visited the west side of the park.  This time we visited the west side again and also visited the east side.  We took time to see the movies at both Visitors Centers and drove through both parks, enjoying the views, especially of the saguaros and different cacti.IMG_20171109_155814

IMG_20171109_161545

This is what a saguaro looks like on the inside

 

First up was the Bajada Loop Drive in the Saguaro West District.IMG_20171109_150814IMG_20171109_151559IMG_20171109_151709IMG_20171109_15081420171109_151918IMG_20171109_155623IMG_20171109_160815

On another day we drove the Cactus Forest Drive in the Tucson East District.IMG_1565IMG_1567IMG_1569

After finishing our drive in the Tucson East District, we drove the Mount Lemmon Scenic Byway which took us to an elevation of 9,157 feet.  The temperature averages thirty degrees cooler here compared to Tucson.  At the top is a small ski resort, many lodges, restaurants and a general store.  IMG_1572IMG_1577IMG_1582IMG_1597IMG_1588IMG_1589IMG_1595IMG_1598

We enjoyed a picnic lunch at the top and it was so chilly we had to put on jackets.  The views of Tucson at the top and during the drive were beautiful.IMG_1593IMG_1594

Before we left Tucson we drove to a nearby RV park to meet up with two of Bill’s FMCA amateur radio buddies.  We enjoyed meeting them and their wives and after visiting for awhile we all went out to lunch.  Weekly they talk by radio where ever they maybe.

IMG_20171114_120116

KW4FD Bill, W0BEB Bruce and K5WF Howard

Next stop:. Casa Grande, AZ

Titan Missile Museum, AZ NOV 13, 2017

Continuing with our time in Tucson, on Monday we drove to nearby Sahuarita to visit the Titan Missile Museum.  IMG_20171113_144234IMG_20171113_124255IMG_20171113_124801

After watching a short video, we took a guided tour of the underground control center and saw the 103 foot tall Titan II missile in its underground silo.  IMG_20171113_142220IMG_20171113_142228

We had an excellent guide who gave an in depth description of the missile facility.  This was once an active intercontinental Ballistic Missile complex.  Of the Titan II sites in the U.S. weapon system, this is the only one not destroyed.  At one time there were 54 missiles sites, with eighteen each distributed over three locations (Little Rock, Arkansas, Wichita, Kansas and Tucson, Arizona).

IMG_20171113_142514

The Missile Silos Around Tuscon

IMG_20171113_142450

Site in 1962

IMG_20171113_142457

Site in 2012

The elevator into the underground silo was under maintenance so we took the 55 steps in and then back out, not too strenuous.  Anyone over six feet tall was required to wear a hard hat because we were entering low areas and they didn’t want to risk anyone injuring their head.  For sanitary reasons each hard hat had a hair net, giving the wearer an unusual look!  Bill didn’t seem to mind.  He is always such a good sport.IMG_20171113_131859

The Titan II is the largest ballistic missile developed by the United States.  It can carry a warhead of nine megatons, equal to nine million tons of TNT.  The amount of TNT needed to equal the explosive power of the Titan II warhead would require a train of 90,000 boxcars.  The train would be 1,534 miles long, stretching from Tucson to Lexington, Kentucky.  While we were in the launch command center the guide simulated what a launch would have been like.  It was sobering and rather scary to think what might have been.IMG_20171113_141158IMG_20171113_141150

During the Cold War the facility, and others like it, was manned twenty four hours a day, waiting for the command to launch.  While they waited, men and women worked keeping the extremely complex system of hundreds of electronic and mechanical systems which must interact perfectly with each other, safe and ready to fire. IMG_20171113_133240IMG_20171113_133246IMG_20171113_133313IMG_20171113_135335 IMG_20171113_135504

There was an accident at a Titan II missile site in Little Rock, Arkansas.  IMG_20171113_124920IMG_20171113_124954

A movie made for television, called “Disaster at Silo Seven” was filmed here.  Also in 1996 part of the movie “Star Trek: First Contact” was filmed at this facility.

The power of the Titan wasn’t all potentially devastatingly destructive.  When no longer needed as a weapon, the Titan also launched the Gemini Program’s astronauts into orbit, sent the Viking probes to Mars and launched Voyager into the outer solar system.  While it can be said the Titan missile prevented a possible catastrophic war with the Soviet Union, it also advanced the exploration of space.IMG_20171113_125143

After our tour we walked around outside.  We saw the cover over the missile which allows satellites from other countries to see the missile silo is inactive.  Our guide told us we had to explain to our potential enemies why we wanted to keep one of the missiles instead of destroying them all.IMG_20171113_141344IMG_20171113_141312IMG_20171113_14140320171113_141817IMG_20171113_125101

Bill was also excited to find an amateur radio antenna where ham radio operators can bring their radios and talk to people around the world using this very large antenna.20171113143704

Tucson, AZ Part 1, NOV 9, 2017

On Thursday November 9th we drove from Benson to Tucson, settling in at Justin’s Diamond J RV Park in the Sonoran Desert.  It was easy to tell we were in Tucson when we saw the tall saguaros and heard the coyotes howling at night.  We were last in Tucson in December, 2013.  You can read about that visit here: Tucson, Tucson Mountain Park and Tucson Desert Museum.

20171111_104058With temperatures averaging 10 to 14 degrees above average, on Saturday we spent a very hot day at Old Tucson.  In 1939 Columbia Pictures began building a replica of the 1860 Tucson city as a setting for the movie “Arizona” starring Jean Arthur and William Holden.  Over 350,000 handmade adobe bricks were used to build the dusty town. 20171111_104235IMG_20171111_125840IMG_20171111_111033

Old Tucson has been used for 400 films and commercial productions.  Some example movies:  

  • “Gunfight at the OK Corral”
  • “Cimmaron”
  • “McLintock”
  • “El. Dorado”
  • “Joe Kidd”

20171111_10404020171111_10442220171111_104846

and many episodes of TV shows: 

  • “Wagon Train”
  • “Little House on the Prairie”
  • “Bonanza”
  • “The High Chaparral”
  • “Death Valley Days”
  • “ Gunsmoke” to name just a few.  20171111_104654

In the museum they had the shirt and hat worn by Hoss in “Bonanza” as well as some of the clothes worn on “Little House on the Prairie”.20171111_10510920171111_104512

It was easy to spend an entire day there riding the little train around the park, viewing live western shows, riding a stagecoach, touring an old mine and seeing reenactments of western scenes. IMG_20171111_111423IMG_20171111_122330IMG_20171111_152705 20171111_12352920171111_124432IMG_20171111_133506IMG_20171111_133552IMG_20171111_111229IMG_20171111_152249

Next up: more Tucson

Tombstone, AZ NOV 2, 2017

On November 2nd we left Willcox and arrived in Benson where we stayed for seven days at Valley Vista RV Park.  Benson is another small town, population 5,100.  Because it is on the Southern Pacific Railroad route, it once was a prime distribution center for copper and silver mines.  When the railroads began to decline in the 1920’s, like many similar towns Benson changed into more of a stopover for tourists traveling west and snowbirds seeking a warmer winter climate.

Saturday we made the short drive to Tombstone, known as the “town too tough to die”.  In the early 1880’s the town produced millions of dollars in silver and gold mining.  After seven years of mining, rising underground water forced the mining to end.IMG_20171104_133845IMG_20171104_13403220171104_105716IMG_20171104_124508IMG_20171104_132858

Much like Dodge City, Kansas and other western towns, Tombstone was known for lawlessness and violence.  The most infamous gunfight battle fought there was between Wyatt Earp and his brothers against the Clanton brothers.20171104_110019IMG_20171104_130803

We walked the old historic streets of Tombstone browsing some of the many souvenir and western apparel shops.  In one shop we met a couple visiting from Jacksonville, Florida.  They had vacationed on the west coast and were on their way back home.  We really enjoyed chatting with this nice couple from Bill’s hometown.20171104_105754IMG_20171104_11093020171104_13085220171104_131656

We had lunch at Big Nose Kate’s where Bill had their famous reuben sandwich.  Big Nose Kate’s was from Hungary and was Tombstone’s first prostitute.  She was also the longtime companion and common law wife of gunfighter Doc Holliday.  No, she didn’t have a big nose.  She got that name because she was always sticking her nose in other people’s business!  Big Nose Kate died just five days before her 90th birthday.IMG_20171104_125137IMG_20171104_121005IMG_20171104_130707IMG_20171104_125214

We took a narrated stagecoach ride which took us around Tombstone and told us some of the history of the area. IMG_20171104_11014320171104_12570820171104_125850 

Bill made sure to thank the horses for the ride!20171104_132028

The rest of our time in Benson went by quickly with laundry, grocery shopping and RV chores.

Next stop: Tucson, AZ

Arizona fun facts:

  • Arizona and Hawaii are the only two states that do not observe daylight savings time.
  • The Arizona Cardinals are the longest running continuous franchise in the National Football League (1898).
  • Autumn is an active season for rattlesnakes because they are finding food before hibernating for the winter.

Willcox, AZ OCT 30, 2017

After an overnight stop in Deming, New Mexico, we said a fond farewell to New Mexico and hello to Arizona.  We really enjoyed our two months in New Mexico and made many great memories, but the weather was getting colder and it was time to move on to warmer weather.  We crossed over the Continental Divide between Deming and Lordsburg, New Mexico, elevation 4,585 ft.  Unfortunately we passed by the sign too quickly to snap a picture.20171030_111505IMG_20171030_101204IMG_20171030_101248

 We knew for sure we had entered Arizona when we started seeing many signs on Interstate 10 warning of potential dust storms.  It seemed every few miles there were yellow dust storm warning signs followed by signs with advice on what to do if you encountered a dust storm. 20171030_110123 

Another way we knew we were near Mexico was when we passed through a border patrol checkpoint on I-10, even though we were really not that close to the border.  They photographed the vehicle as we slowly passed and the border patrol agent waved us through. We didn’t even have to come to a stop.

Our first stop was in Willcox where we stayed three nights at another nice Elks Lodge with electric and water hookups.  Willcox has a population of just over 3,700, a nice little town.  Cattle raising is important here as well as the cultivation of apples, peaches, pistachios, onions and tomatoes.  Willcox is also known for its vineyards.IMG_20171030_173757

On Tuesday we made the forty-five minute drive to Chiricahua National Monument.  This area is also called “Wonderland of Rocks” and was established as a monument in 1924 to protect the rocks. It exceeded our expectations and definitely had the WOW factor!  These lands were once owned by the Chiricahua Apaches who were led by the great Cochise.  Cochise led the Native American resistance to the white man’s advances during the 1860’s.IMG_20171031_132103

Twenty-seven million years ago violent eruptions from a nearby volcano covered the area with white hot ash and formed a twelve mile wide caldera.  The ash cooled and fused into an almost 2,000 foot layer of rock.  Over time erosion sculptured the rock into odd shaped rock pillars.

We stopped by the Visitors Center located in Bonita Canyon and saw a short movie on the area.IMG_20171031_134956

IMG_20171031_164731

This view is from the sun roof of our car

We drove the eight mile scenic drive where the rocks at times towered above us.  IMG_20171031_140534IMG_20171031_140718IMG_20171031_140831IMG_20171031_141535

We also took two hikes, both on rocky paths and we were glad we had our walking sticks.  IMG_20171031_143153IMG_20171031_143257IMG_20171031_143311IMG_20171031_144011IMG_20171031_143701IMG_20171031_144722IMG_20171031_144608IMG_20171031_144854IMG_20171031_150512IMG_20171031_145047

The views were amazing and reminded us of the magnificent national parks in Utah.  We especially enjoyed the balanced rocks and the grottoes, which are small cave like formations.IMG_20171031_152346IMG_20171031_154033IMG_20171031_155142IMG_20171031_155747IMG_20171031_160311IMG_20171031_160400

Next stop: Benson, AZ

Alamogordo, NM OCT 26, 2017

Leaving Lakewood on Thursday we headed west towards Alamogordo.  We again passed by the pumps pumping oil.  20171022_145029

We had to drive over the Cloudcroft summit, elevation 8,650 ft.  Due to the high elevation and the steep grade on the way down from the peak, we disconnected the car and I drove the car down the mountain.  I was able to snap a quick picture of Bill driving the RV through a tunnel on the way down.20171026_114759(0)

We arrived in Alamogordo and set up at the local friendly Elks Lodge where they have electric, water and sewer RV sites.  Alamogordo is home to the Holloman Air Force Base and much of the city’s industry is related to the Air Base and space travel.

After getting settled in we drove to the nearby New Mexico Museum of Space History. It is appropriate that the museum is here since this area of New Mexico is known as the cradle of America’s space program.  It was not the most extensive space museum we have ever been to, and some of the museum was under renovation and in disarray, but we enjoyed our visit.  IMG_20171026_13585920171026_14072320171026_140819

20171026_141214

This is the Elevator

On the grounds was the burial site of HAM, the first “Astrochimp”.  (Previously dogs and other animals had been launched by Soviets and NASA as merely passengers.) HAM was launched in a Mercury capsule on January 31, 1961.  Three months later the first manned flight was launched into space with Alan Shepard becoming the first American in space.   IMG_20171026_142931IMG_20171026_14294420171026_142947

We both enjoyed the Star Trek collection.20171026_150627IMG_20171026_151133IMG_20171026_151047

 Bill was especially interested in the Daisy Track.  It was used from 1955 to 1985 and was converted from rocket to air powered sled track. It was used to study the effects of acceleration, deceleration and impact on the human body of different equipment systems.  It was used for biological and mechanical research and testing for NASA’s Mercury space flights and the Apollo moon landings. It was used to test the idea of seat belts for automobile use.IMG_20171026_151629IMG_20171026_152437IMG_20171026_152827IMG_20171026_152907IMG_20171026_153025

Thursday evening was Wing Night at the Elks and we went over and had some wings in hot sauce, very hot sauce!

IMG_20171027_132702Friday we drove to White Sands National Monument.  Here, rare gypsum sands form beautiful white dunes that rise up to sixty feet above the Tularosa Basin floor at the northern end of the Chihuahuan Desert.  How were they formed?  Basically when the Permian Sea retreated millions of years ago, it left behind deep layers of gypsum fields.  Mountains rose and carried  the gypsum higher. The dunes were created when rain and melting snow dissolved gypsum from the surrounding mountains and carried it into Lake Lucero.  Desert heat evaporated the water, causing gypsum crystals to form.  Dry southwest winds exposed the crystals, eroding them into sand size particles that were blown to form the dunes.  

Today, wind, snow and rain continue the process.  Inches below the surface is water which prevents the dunes from blowing away.  At 275 square miles, White Sands is the world’s largest gypsum dune field.  It is truly like no other place on earth and one of the world’s great natural wonders.  People are allowed to go dune sledding here.  President Herbert Hoover declared it a national monument in 1933.  

We saw an interesting movie in the Visitors Center on how the dunes were formed and are ever changing.  Of particular interest was a description of how the animals such as lizards and rodents have adapted to the harsh, white environment by evolving to a white color to camouflage themselves from their enemies. IMG_20171027_132756 

This can be a surprisingly dangerous environment where it is easy to get lost and lose your bearings in all the whiteness.  A couple years ago a family visiting from France became disoriented on one of the trails on a hot day.  They had failed to bring enough water with them on the hike.  The parents died and their son survived because the parents gave their water to their son.  IMG_1517IMG_1519IMG_1521IMG_1522IMG_1526IMG_1532IMG_1544IMG_1552

We walked on a couple of the easier trails.  In the parking lot of one of the trails we noticed a vehicle with Virginia license plates so of course we had to stop and talk with them.  They were from Henrico County and had been traveling full time in their RV for four months.  We stood in the parking lot and chatted with them for about an hour, sharing our experience over the last four years.  Always excited to meet someone from my birth state.  We exchanged contact information so hopefully we will meet up with this nice couple sometime down the road.IMG_1557IMG_1563IMG_1553

Nearby is White Sands Missile Range where the Trinity Site is located.  It was here on July 16,1945 the first atomic bomb was detonated.  From 1945 to 1949 the German V2 rockets and their engineers assembled and tested their rockets here. In the 1960’s, testing for the lunar module engines that propelled Apollo astronauts off the moon’s surface was done here.  Today the facilities are used for radar, laser and flight research.IMG_20171026_145557

On Saturday Bill helped some men from the Elks replace some electrical power cables.  Some of the electrical outlets at various campsites were not working.  When the men came on Saturday morning to fix them, Bill went out to ask if they needed help.  They accepted his offer so he spent several hours helping them pull power cables underground. Their next step will be to connect up the RV sites to the new cables.

Next up: Willcox, Arizona

Carlsbad Caverns NP, NM OCT 24, 2017

We left Valley of Fires and headed towards Carlsbad Caverns.  We hadn’t planned on visiting Carlsbad but decided since we had some extra days to spend in New Mexico and the Caverns were fairly close, now was a good time.  In November, 2015 we stopped there on our way back home to Florida.  We discovered the elevator was broken and it is a very long uphill climb out of the Caverns if you can’t take the elevator!  We decided to skip the tour and visit another time.  We usually are up for the challenge but back then I had a chest cold and didn’t feel like the exertion it would take to hike out.

Along the way we passed oil pumps pumping oil before pulling into an Escapees RV Park called The Ranch.   Located in Lakewood, it is about 45 minutes from Carlsbad Caverns.  Without a doubt Escapees are the nicest and friendliest people you would ever want to meet.  Immediately upon our arrival, someone rang the big bell outside the office and people starting walking up to greet us and invite us to the afternoon Happy Hour.

The next morning we drove to Carlsbad Caverns which required us driving through the city of Carlsbad.  The traffic was really tedious with lots of traffic lights, none of which appeared to be synchronized.IMG_20171024_091223

Carlsbad Caverns, located in the Chihuahuan Desert of the Guadalupe Mountains, is one of the largest caves in the Western Hemisphere.  It is also one of deepest, longest and darkest caverns ever found.  It is considered to be the Eighth Wonder of the World.

We decided to take the self guided tour and our Golden Age Pass prevented us from having to pay a fee to enter the Caverns.  We did rent a headset in the bookstore with a narrated tour.  We began by hiking 1.25 miles into the cave through the Natural Entrance.  IMG_20171024_095652IMG_20171024_095833IMG_20171024_101434

We descended 800 feet which was very steep in places and gave our legs and knees quite a workout.IMG_20171024_103452IMG_20171024_104302IMG_20171024_120002

The chambers of the Caverns were beautiful, though not as colorful as caverns we have visited in other states.  The prevalent color was brown and it felt drier than other caves.  The highlight was The Big Room, which at 8.2 acres is one of the world’s largest and most accessible underground chambers.IMG_20171024_104318IMG_20171024_115037

IMG_20171024_124511

The ripples are from water dropping into the pool

IMG_20171024_124001

This one is called “Rock of the Ages”

Carlsbad Caverns is a sanctuary to several hundred thousand Mexican bats.  During the day they congregate together in a section of the Caverns called the Bat Cave.  As we passed through this area we could hear them.  Since they have started their winter migration, we did not see their nightly flight from the Caverns which can be seen at other times of the year.  Back in the 1800’s settlers explored the Caverns and used the huge deposits left behind by the bats, called guano, as natural fertilizer.  IMG_20171024_110532IMG_20171024_114854IMG_20171024_105122IMG_20171024_115309IMG_20171024_122844IMG_20171024_113549IMG_20171024_113850IMG_20171024_113946IMG_20171024_114210IMG_20171024_114307IMG_20171024_114825IMG_20171024_114907IMG_20171024_124653IMG_20171024_114358IMG_20171024_124844

In the early 1900’s a cowboy named Jim White was the first person to extensively explore the Caverns and led the first tours.  It is hard to comprehend what it must have been like for them to enter such a huge, dark abyss.  Today there are paved walkways and electric lights.  It is  also hard to grasp the labor that went into putting in those walkways and lights.  After first becoming a national monument, it became a national park in 1930.

After spending about three hours walking through the Caverns we took the elevator back up.  We were very happy to see it working this time!

The 1959 movie, “Journey to the Center of the Earth” was filmed here.

Next up: Alamogordo, NM

Valley of Fires, NM OCT 17, 2017

By the time we left Albuquerque we were really tired from all the early mornings and physical exertion from the Balloon Fiesta.  After filling the RV up with propane we headed south to Valley of Fires Recreation Area where we had a very nice electric and water site overlooking the lava fields.  This may be the youngest lava flow in the continental United States, with scientific evidence estimating that the most recent flow occurred 1,500 to 2,000 years ago.  The lava spewed from volcanic vents, covering the valley floor.  Occasionally it would surround areas of higher ground, forming islands called “kipukas”.  Our campground was located on a kipuka.

IMG_20171020_133558

The campground is surrounded by the lava field

20171020_124711

In the lava fields we hiked a very nice paved walkway where we saw lava, in some cases smooth like blocks and in other areas more ropy-looking.  20171020_13162120171020_13181020171020_132151

The lava is more than 160 feet thick near the center and covers over 125 square miles.  20171016_125532IMG_20171016_153241IMG_20171020_132521IMG_20171020_132545

We could see pressure ridges, collapsed lava bubbles, fissures, pits, collapsed lava tubes and rock shelters.  IMG_20171020_13034820171020_131158

We loved seeing all the cacti and plants growing among the lava.IMG_20171016_153322

Valley of Fires is located just outside of the town of Carrizozo, NM.  In the period between 1910 and 1920 it was a thriving railroad town and open for homesteading, with many railroad families claiming their 640 acres of free land.  With the modernization of railroad machinery and the introduction of new diesel engines, the need for the town’s railroad workforce was eliminated.  Today Carrizozo has a population of 940 and the town is showing signs of disrepair.  One of the main streets was used in a post apocalypse scene from the 2010 movie “The Book of Eli” with Denzel Washington.

IMG_20171017_132037We had planned to rest and relax here but we seem to always find things to do wherever we go!  Tuesday we drove an hour north to the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument.  This is made up of three pueblos and 17th century Spanish Franciscan missions.  The missions were abandoned in the late 17th century and the masonry ruins are surprisingly intact.  We first went to the Visitors Center to see a short film and view the exhibits.  

The three ruins, called the Abo Ruins, Gran Quivira Ruins and the Quarai Ruins, are within a thirty mile radius of each other.  Before the Spaniards came, these pueblos were major trade centers, with salt from the nearby salt lakes being an important trade commodity between the Pueblo and Plains Indians.  Between 1630 and 1680, Franciscan missionaries and Spanish colonists came and built churches using Indian labor and forced their religion and way of life on the Native Americans.  Drought, famine, disease and Apache raids were devastating on the Pueblo people.

IMG_20171017_133633First up was Quarai.  Here are remnants of church walls and remains of what was once a bustling Indian pueblo and Franciscan mission.  At one time the square was surrounded on three sides by blocks of stone houses three stories high.  Over 600 people hunted, farmed and traded goods and salt from nearby lake beds.  The first stone houses were built here around 1300.  By 1677, Quarai was deserted.20171017_13401420171017_13460220171017_134714IMG_20171017_135155

IMG_20171017_142306Next was the Abo Mission.  When the first Spanish priest walked into Abo in 1622, nothing would ever be the same for the Native Americans again.  Life as they knew it changed forever.  Artifacts uncovered from this area included a ceramic candlestick, mother-of-pearl cross and stone effigies all telling the story of conflicting religions.  We saw a large kiva, which is an underground meeting chamber for conducting religious ceremonies, teaching children, telling stories and weaving.  20171017_14271320171017_143008IMG_20171017_143044

The Franciscan priest supervised the construction of the massive church using Pueblo labor.  The walls were sandstone held together with mud mortar and plastered white with gypsum on the inside and whitewashed adobe on the outside.  When it was completed in 1651 it resembled the fortress churches in Mexico.IMG_20171017_142755

Last up was Gran Quivira, the largest of the pueblos.  At one time it was a village of more than twenty masonry house blocks and between 1,500 and 2,000 people.  There were approximately 300 rooms and six kivas.  They occupied this area for over 900 years.IMG_20171017_152715IMG_20171017_154304IMG_20171017_15442420171017_154902

20171018_131635Thursday we drove a short distance to the Three Rivers Petroglyph Site.  The Jornada Mogollon people carved more than 21,000 designs of humans, birds, animals, fish, insects, plants and geometric shapes in the basalt of the Three Rivers Valley in over 50 acres of the northern Chihuahuan Desert.  This area is one of the largest rock art sites in North America.  We followed a trail, somewhat challenging at times, through the desert looking at the petroglyphs and keeping a vigilant watch for rattlesnakes. 20171018_135949 

Thankfully we didn’t see any, but Bill did see a rattlesnake crossing the road across from our RV at the campground!  We only have a few pictures to show you because the pictures accidentally got deleted when transferring from the camera to the laptop.  Oh well, stuff happens sometimes!  

Here is a link to the BLM site where you can see some petroglyph pictures located at Flickr.

On Saturday we drove 45 minutes to Ruidoso to have lunch with Bill’s cousin Julie and her daughter.  Bill and Julie had not seen each other for 35 years!  We had a nice time catching up.IMG_20171021_145412

Next stop: A visit to Carlsbad Caverns National Park