Category Archives: Private RV Campground

Private RV Campground

July 1, 2015 Buffalo, Wyoming

IMG_20150629_103912We left Sundance and drove 135 miles to Buffalo, Wyoming.  The drive was rather boring, just an endless straight road with open plains and the occasional herds of cattle and some horses.  I will say the horses in this part of the country are beautiful, looking very much like the horses used by Indians in the old western movies and TV shows.

We arrived in Buffalo for our stay at a private campground.  The temperature was pretty hot and they had some nice shady spots.  Unfortunately in order to get our Dish satellite antenna to work we had to park in the section without a bit of shade.

The park provided internet and therefore we spent time researching and making reservations for November, December and January.  We were shocked and somewhat dismayed to learn many Florida RV parks have a three month minimum stay and most of the popular state parks were already booked!  Since we want to move around Florida during the winter, the three month minimum stay will not work for us.  Foiled by those snowbirds yet again!

IMG_0287While in Buffalo we made the 90 minute drive north into Montana to visit the Little Bighorn National Monument.  It was here in the valley of the Bighorn River that George Custer’s 7th Cavalry Regiment of 600 men met with a gigantic Indian village including several thousand Lakota, Arapaho and Northern Cheyenne braves. Custer divided the regiment into four battalions, keeping a force of 215 under his own command in June, 1876. IMG_0293IMG_0290IMG_0289IMG_0302

The 1.2 square mile site has a Visitors Center with Ranger talks throughout the day, a large memorial, a memorial to Native Americans and a drive around the battlefield with overlooks and descriptive signs.  On the battlefield are approximately 263 white markers showing where IMG_0305human remains were found.  Custer’s marker showing where he died is easy to locate due to its special black markings.  Custer’s brother also died near him.  In the park are two cemeteries.  At the large memorial on Last Stand Hill is buried the remains of those who were found in shallowIMG_0292IMG_0291 graves. The remains were buried together under the memorial.  I asked the ranger why the remains were disturbed and not buried where they were found and he said at that time:

  • they did not have the proper equipment to bury that many bodies in deep graves
  • Custer was buried 18 inches deep
  • in many cases only partial remains were found
  • many wounded solders needed to be transported ASAP to a hospital 500 miles away

The Native American memorial was completed in 2013.  The memorial is in the shape of a circle, which is considered sacred, and is open to ceremonial events.  The inside walls display the names of many who fought here and the words of some.  A “Spirit Warrior” sculpture is IMG_0295IMG_0296IMG_0297IMG_0298prominently displayed.  Throughout the battlefield are several red granite markers to mark the location of fallen Indian warriors.  The first red granite marker was placed on Memorial Day, 1999.  The red granite was chosen by Native Americans.  It was hard to locate the remains of Native Americans because they were removed from the battlefield by the Indians.IMG_0294IMG_0303

Also located in the park is a national cemetery established in 1879, which looks much like Arlington National Cemetery though much much smaller.  Veterans of all wars can be buried there but at this time the cemetery is at its limit.  Any man who fought at Little Bighorn and could be positively identified is denoted with a US flag next to the white marker.

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Marcus Reno was second in command under Custer and survived the battle

Custer was buried at this location but his body was later moved to West Point.  Custer is a controversial figure.  He was said to have bravely fought against Confederate troops during the Civil War, supposedly having eleven horses shot out from under him.  Some would say he was only following government orders in his various interactions with Native Americans.  Others would call him vicious, boastful and arrogant.

Bill and I readily admit we are biased when it comes to battles between the settlers and the Native Americans.  While we do not agree with everything the ranger said in his talk about the Battle of Little Bighorn, we cannot deny he did an excellent job in his presentation.  We learned more about the U.S. invasion of Indian territories.  The government was under pressure from people who wanted western expansion.  The discovery of gold only intensified this push.  As more settlers moved west the Native Americans saw more of their land being taken away with no regard to their way of life.  The American government, feeling it was cheaper to feed the Indians rather than fight them, initiated peace treaties with them which they then turned around and broke.  The 1868 Laramie peace treaty designated a large area of eastern Wyoming as a permanent Indian reservation and the government promised to protect them.  The treaty was broken in 1874 as thousands of gold seekers rushed the territory.  The government tried unsuccessfully to keep them out.  The government then tried to buy the Black Hills from the Indians but they refused to sell.  The Indians left the reservation and resumed raids on settlers and travelers.  In January, 1876 the government then ordered free Plains Indians, who are labeled “hostiles” to return to the small reservations.  When the Indians did not comply, the army was called in to enforce the order.IMG_0299

While this was Custer’s Last Stand, it was also the last stand for the Native Americans.  A huge public outcry over Custer’s defeat led to such events as the Battle of Wounded Knee and the Indians relocation on reservations.  At the Battle of Little Bighorn, the Indians may have won the battle but they lost their land, their culture, their way of life.  They won the battle but lost the war.

June 24, 2015 Sundance, Wyoming

After twelve days we left South Dakota and headed to Wyoming. We enjoyed our time in South Dakota but sure experienced some scary weather there. On our next to the last night in South Dakota we were hit with another frightening thunderstorm with winds over 45 mph, lightning, heavy rain and even more hail than we had in the Badlands.

IMG_0249We arrived in Sundance and checked into a nice campground. Wyoming is the least populous state in the country with approximately 544,270 residents spread out over more than 97,000 square miles. It is nicknamed “The Cowboy State” because of the estimated 11,000 farms and ranches. The Black Hills are 90% in South Dakota but this small area of northeast Wyoming, including Sundance, in part of The Black Hills. Our main reason for stopping in Sundance was to visit Devils Tower National Monument. This granite formation rises 1,267 feet from the prairie and has hundreds of parallel cracks making it one of the finest traditional rock climbing areas in North America. The site is sacred to the Lakota and other tribes. Legend has it that the rock rose up just in time to save seven young Indian girls from a bear and the rock rose higher and higher out of reach of the bear. The marks on the tower were caused by the bear’s claws. The girls were pushed up into the sky where they became seven stars (the Pleiades constellation).IMG_0250IMG_0248

The Devils Tower was proclaimed the first national monument in 1906 by President Theodore Roosevelt. Devils Tower is best remembered as the one of the sites in the 1978 Spielberg movie, “Close Encounters of the Third Kind”. I had never seen the movie and as luck would have it the campground office had it for rent so we watched it before going to see Devils Tower.IMG_0252IMG_0253

We walked the Tower Trail that circles the tower where you can see rockfalls of gigantic columns that have fallen. Devils Tower is 1,000 feet in diameter at the bottom and 275 feet at the top.  It was formed 40 million years ago when a column of molten lava pushed through the limestone.  As the rock cooled, it fractured into vertical columns.  The limestone eventually eroded away revealing the towering formation seen today.  It is a wonderful example of erosion.

After leaving Devils Tower we drove to Aladdin, population 15. Yes, you read that right. Population 15. The town is currently for sale if you want a town.IMG_0256

IMG_20150625_151142Sundance, population 1,182 is the largest town in the area. In 1879, Albert Hoge, a Prussian born immigrant staked his claim and named the town Sundance in honor of the “sun dance” performed by the Native Americans.  Perhaps what Sundance is best known for is the Sundance Kid, friend of Butch Cassity. The Sundance Kid, born Harry Alonzo Longabaugh, got his start as an outlaw when he stole a horse, gun and saddle. He spent the next eighteen months in the Sundance jail, earning him his name.  Outside the former jail is a statue of the Sundance Kid lounging in his cell. Not many towns have a statue of a horse thief and notorious bandit as the focal point of their town!

IMG_0261We drove to Belle Fourche (pronounced “Bell Foosh”) which is located in southwest South Dakota and therefore a closer drive from Sundance than from the Badlands. We came here because there is a Center of the Nation Monument in the shape of a compass rose carved out of South Dakota granite.  We were the only ones there at this 21 foot in diameter monument surrounded by the flags of all 50 states.  We love geographical places like this even though the real geographic center is located twenty miles north of Belle Fourche on private property.  IMG_0257This is the geographic center of the United States if you include Alaska and Hawaii.  It was interesting to read that when Alaska was admitted to the union the geographic center shifted 439 miles northwest and when Hawaii was added it shifted 6 miles west-southwest.  Along with the monument was a nice visitors center and an original 1876 log cabin from the gold rush days.  The cabin was hosted by an elderly gentleman, a Korean War Veteran, and since we were the only ones there he had plenty of time for us.  We certainly enjoyed spending time talking with him about the area and we found a geocache behind the cabin.IMG_0259IMG_0260

IMG_20150627_122423While we were in Sundance the ARRL (American Radio Relay League) was having their annual Field Day.  For 24 hours amateur radio operators contact as many other amateur radio operators around the world.  It is a popular contest and challenge among amateur radio enthusiasts.  An AARL group was getting together in the small town of Upton about thirty miles from Sundance so Bill drove over and spent some time with them.  He had a great time talking with fellow amateur radio enthusiasts!

On our last day in Sundance we drove the Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway which took us briefly back into South Dakota.  We stopped at two waterfalls, the only waterfalls we saw in South Dakota.  The Spearhead Falls was especially beautiful and had a cool refreshing mist blowing on us from the falls.  The sign said Spearhead Canyon was older than the Grand Canyon.IMG_0273IMG_0277IMG_0271

IMG_0280We drove through Deadwood, a western town much like Tombstone, Virginia City or any other tourist attraction with fake gunfights and plenty of places to spend money.  Wild Bill Hickok was killed here in Saloon #10 and is buried in a cemetery nearby.

IMG_0286Before heading back over the border into Wyoming we drove through Sturgis, famous for one of the largest annual motorcycle events held in the world.  Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world come here in August.  This year will be the 75th anniversary.  We heard the tiny town makes 90% of their income for the year during that one week in August!  The streets were relatively quiet and we could only imagine what the town is like during that week in August!

June 16, 2015 Rapid City and Custer S.P. South Dakota

While staying at Mount Rushmore we drove to Rapid City, population 70,000, the second largest city in South Dakota.  The town was founded in 1876 by a group of prospectors who had come to the Black Hills in search of gold and named the town after a spring fed creek which passes through it. We took a 90 minute trolley ride tour which included a visit to Dinosaur Park on a hill overlooking the city.  The park has seven life size concrete dinosaur replicas as well as a spectacular view of Rapid City.IMG_0187

Rapid City is known as the “City of Presidents” because of its proximity to Mount Rushmore but also because of a public art project that resulted in 43 life size bronze presidential statues of all past presidents which are located on street corners downtown.  Using a map to guide us we enjoyed finding the statues.  The figures are displayed in different poses and tries to emphasize a unique part of their personality such as Ronald Reagan wearing a cowboy hat. Rapid City was another small western town we have enjoyed on our travels this year.IMG_0199IMG_0200IMG_0194IMG_0196IMG_0189IMG_0190IMG_0201

Another day we wanted to drive back to Custer State Park to continue exploring the rest of the park. At 71,000 acres, it is one of the nation’s largest state parks. We drove towards the park on the Needles Highway through pine and spruce forests with meadows surrounded by rugged IMG_0206IMG_0203IMG_0210IMG_0207granite mountains. The road gets its name from the many needle like granite formations along the highway. The roadway was planned by former South Dakota governor Peter Norbeck who marked the entire course on foot and horseback. With the aid of 150,000 pounds of dynamite, construction was completed in 1922. We passed through three very narrow tunnels.

The State Game Lodge in Custer State Park was the summer White House for President Calvin Coolidge and was visited by Dwight Eisenhower. A really neat time to visit the park would be the last Friday in September when they do the bison roundup. Some of these bison are auctioned off in November with the money going towards operating costs of the park.

Next we drove to Wind Cave National Park. We had driven through a small section of the park on our way to Mount Rushmore and we wanted to continue to explore more of the park and stop by the Visitors Center.

Wind Cave National Park was established in 1903 and is the eighth national park created. It was the first national park set aside to protect a cave. Wind Cave is one of the world’s longest and most complex caves. Currently there are over 143 miles of twisting passageways under only 1.2 square miles of surface area. Close your eyes and visualize what a maze of tunnels that creates deep below the surface of the land! Portions of Wind Cave are believed to be over 300 million years old, making it one of the oldest caves in the world. Barometric wind studies estimate that only five percent of the total cave has been discovered.

Wind Cave is considered sacred and culturally significant to Native Americans who roamed the area for centuries. You could say it was rediscovered in 1881 by Tom and Jesse Bingham when they heard whistling noises coming from the small entrance to the cave.

We enjoyed touring the Visitors Center where they had a movie and many interesting exhibits about the cave.

As we drove around the park we continued to see buffalo and a lot of prairie dogs. We stopped to watch them and take pictures as they played a game with us of now you see us, now you don’t.  The prairie dogs live in large social groups called towns.  The round mound of dirt that surrounds the prairie dog hole keeps rain water from running into the burrow and serves as an observation post to watch for danger.IMG_0216IMG_0219IMG_0222IMG_0228IMG_0225IMG_0229IMG_0233IMG_0237

Tomorrow we leave Mount Rushmore for the Badlands of South Dakota.

June 12, 2015 Mount Rushmore NP, South Dakota

Bill and I had both waited a long time to see Mount Rushmore so the next morning we eagerly made the drive to Mount Rushmore National Park.  While there is no charge to get in, you have to pay $11 to park with the money going to pay for the large parking garage built to accommodate all the tourists. No federal money was used to pay for the garage. The parking pass is good for a year. We were told that the garage will be paid off in 2016 and the trustees will give the garage to the park service.IMG_0153

Mount Rushmore is an amazing place with an Information Center, Visitors Center, three bookstores, a gift shop, sculptor’s studio, two theaters with movies, nature trails and an amphitheater. A Grand View Terrace to view Mount Rushmore is at the end of the Avenue of Flags where flags from all fifty states are displayed. IMG_0142IMG_0147We enjoyed the exhibits and movie and spent time just looking at the faces of Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln. We had lunch at the cafe there and Bill tried the buffalo chili which he said was good.IMG_0136IMG_0140

Between 1927 and 1941, sculptor Gutzon Borglum carved the memorial with the help of over 400 workers. When Borglum died his son Lincoln Borglum supervised the completion. Work stopped in October, 1941 near the beginning of World War II. It was interesting to read that Gutzon Borglum wanted to build a special place to share important pieces of American history so he planned to build a large room which would be carved into the vertical wall of the canyon behind the faces. This room would be called the Hall of Records and would store important documents like the Declaration of Independence, the U.S. Constitution and the Bill of Rights. Work on the Hall of Records began in 1938 but the U.S. government would not approve funding for the addition and workers were only able to carve a doorway and small hallway before Congress stopped the Hall of Records project.IMG_0149IMG_0150

IMG_0154After leaving Mount Rushmore we drove through part of Black Hills National Forest and Custer State Park along the Iron Mountain Road and the Wildlife Loop Road where we encountered “pigtail curves”. Back in Denver we were excited to see buffalo in the distance behind a fence. Little did we know we would see herds of buffalo here. We saw a lot of buffalo and calves.IMG_0157 The buffalo were right by the side of the road and a couple times we had to stop and wait while they crossed the road. The buffalo were shedding their winter coats so they looked especially scruffy.IMG_0169IMG_0163

Today the park is home to as many as 1,450 head of North American bison, also known as buffalo. There were once millions of bison, but by 1900 fewer than 1,000 bison remained on the entire continent. Peter Norbeck, known as the “Father of Custer State Park”, decided to take action to preserve the bison.  In 1914 the park purchased thirty-six bison which grew to 2,500 by the 1940’s. The bison numbers are great enough today to have a roundup each year and some of the bison are auctioned off.IMG_0159IMG_0161IMG_0162IMG_0164IMG_0166IMG_0171IMG_0175IMG_0176

We came across prairie dogs chattering as they popped up from their holes in the ground, deer and a lazy burro.IMG_0180IMG_0178

Later that evening we returned to the Mount Rushmore Amphitheater for the Evening Lighting Ceremony. IMG_0181IMG_0184IMG_20150612_213230After watching a patriotic movie the faces on Mount Rushmore were lighted, we sang the National Anthem and the flag was then lowered. They invited all past and current members of the military service to come down to the stage. The stage was full and each person was asked to give their name and rank. Several of them participated in the folding of the flag.

Some facts about Mount Rushmore:

  • Each face is 60 feet tall. Each eye is 11 feet wide.
  • Washington’s nose is 21 feet long. All the other noses are 20 feet long.
  • Washington’s mouth is 18 feet wide.
  • Washington’s head is as tall as a six story building.
  • Total cost was $989,992.32
  • Main tool was dynamite and the drill was the jackhammer.
  • The rock is Harney Peak Granite.

June 10, 2015 Cheyenne, Wyoming & Wind Cave NP, South Dakota

We left Denver and continued to head toward South Dakota.  Cheyenne, Wyoming was a convenient place for a stopover on the way.  We stayed two nights which gave us a full day to explore Wyoming’s state capitol.IMG_20150610_150743

IMG_20150610_155151Having just been to Denver, Colorado’s state capitol, we were really struck by the difference.  Downtown Cheyenne was quiet with little traffic and few people milling around.  Finding a parking place or slowing down to take pictures was not a problem.  It looked like any small western city.  We noticed several statues of eight foot tall boots located around the city. Our favorite boot was one with the capitol painted on it.  The boots were created for a fundraiser for the Cheyenne Depot Museum in 2004.  Nineteen boots were painted and decorated by local artists and auctioned off.  We enjoyed finding them as we toured the town.IMG_20150610_152901IMG_20150610_151001

IMG_0097We had planned on taking the route through Lusk, Wyoming to cross over into South Dakota. All the rain and flooding changed our plans. The major bridge in Lusk had been washed out and roads were closed with flash flood warnings still in effect so we took a route across the plains of Nebraska. We crossed mile after mile of farmland and open plains. As we neared the South Dakota line we began to see some interesting rock formations in Nebraska and the weather deteriorated with rain and fog quickly moving in making visibility poor. I wasn’t able to get a picture of the South Dakota welcome sign because of the rain and fog. Rats!! It was a nice one with a picture of Mount Rushmore.IMG_0099IMG_20150611_111712IMG_0103

Once in South Dakota we traveled through a part of Wind Cave National Park. IMG_0108We stopped along the side of the road to look at some buffalo right by the car.  Some were busy drinking from a small mud puddle. With the windows open we could hear them slurping and snorting as they drank.IMG_0127IMG_0118IMG_0121IMG_0122IMG_0132IMG_0135

After a long seven and a half hour drive we arrived at a campground in Hill City, about fifteen  minutes from Mount Rushmore. We stayed at a nice private campground and enjoyed watching the birds who often gathered at the bird feeder outside our door.

Some facts about Cheyenne:

  • With a population of 62,400, it is still the most populous city in Wyoming.
  • It is named for the Cheyenne nation, one of the Great Plains Tribes.
  • It began in 1867 during the construction of the Union Pacific Railroad and as a headquarters for cavalry troops protecting pioneers and railroad workers. Originally called Fort Russell and later renamed F. E. Warren Air Force Base, it is one of the nation’s oldest continually active installations.
  • Back in the mid 19th century it was overrun with gamblers, cowboys and speculators, earning it the name “Hell on Wheels”. By 1869 it had been cleaned up and became the capitol in 1890 when Wyoming became the 44th state.
  • Nellie Tayloe Ross, the first woman governor in the country is from Cheyenne.
  • Wild Bill Hickok and sportscaster Curt Gowdy are from Cheyenne. We were unable to get a reservation at Curt Gowdy State Park because it was full.

May 24, 2015 Albuquerque, New Mexico

Sunday we made the short drive to Old Town Albuquerque.  This area was not as large as Old Town Santa Fe and was mainly restaurants and souvenir shops.  Both Old Towns had a central Plaza where tourists seemed to gather to listen to live music or magic shows.  In both Old Town Santa Fe and Old Town Albuquerque we saw chilies hanging to dry.  Chilies are a staple in IMG_20150524_123529IMG_20150524_122828

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Chilies hanging everywhere
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San Felipe De Neri, oldest church in Albuquerque, serving since 1706

IMG_20150524_131937almost every southwest dish.  Bill enjoyed chatting with two men who served in World War II as Navajo Code Talkers.  They were signing copies of their book.  During World War II the Japanese were able to intercept radio military communications so Navajos spoke their own code in the Navajo language and the Japanese were unable to break the code.

Saturday while on the way to Santa Fe we stopped by the Sandia Peaks Aerial Tram.  Since it was a Saturday and a holiday weekend there was a three hour wait to ride the tram so we decided to return Tuesday.  On Tuesday there was barely a line and we were able to get on the next tram.  We don’t know why they call this a tram since it seems much more like a gondola to us.  It is advertised as the world’s longest single span aerial tramway.  We rode 2.7 miles across deep canyons with rocky walls to the top of the Sandia Peak at an elevation of 10,400 feet.  It was much colder at that elevation and we had a view of 11,000 square miles, including Albuquerque in the distance.  This is a double reversible passenger aerial tramway so we passed another tram both going up and coming down.IMG_20150526_105611IMG_20150526_105759IMG_20150526_113729PANO_20150526_112314IMG_20150526_110448IMG_20150526_112925IMG_20150526_114440IMG_20150526_115432IMG_20150526_115826

Also on Tuesday we drove to Petroglyph National Monument.  Here they have the world’s largest accessible collection of prehistoric rock art.  There are more than 17,000 ancient petroglyphs carved into the remnants of boulders of dormant volcanoes by Native American and Spanish settlers 400 to 700 years ago.  The monument was established in 1990 to protect the petroglyphs and surrounding area.  No, we did not find all 17,000 petroglyphs, but Bill did take pictures of a few.IMG_20150526_132658IMG_20150526_135517IMG_20150526_135829IMG_20150526_140657IMG_20150526_141240IMG_20150526_135900

May 23, 2015 Santa Fe, New Mexico

We made the short drive from Los Alamos to our campground in Bernalillo right outside of Albuquerque.  We had a nice long pull through site with our own ramada.  We noticed in the southwest and Mexico it is quite common to have these ramadas, but it is not everyday each campsite gets their own. IMG_20150525_160149 We planned on staying here five nights to explore the Albuquerque and Santa Fe area.

One day we drove into Santa Fe, which is the oldest capital city in the country (1610) and also the capital city with the highest elevation (6,989 ft).  Santa Fe has the nickname “The City Different” and it truly IMG_20150523_122225looks very different from any other city in the country.  Thousands of years ago the Pueblo Indians used adobe, a mixture of earth, straw and water which was shaped into bricks and dried in the sun.  In 1912 a code was passed requiring the use of a style called Spanish Pueblo Revival which meant an architecture of earth-toned, flat topped buildings, wood beamed ceilings and doors and window frames painted white or turquoise.  Most of the buildings are stucco that resemble IMG_20150523_153536adobe called non-authentic adobe.  Consequently everything in Santa Fe looks adobe, including McDonald’s!  They also have a regulation that no building can be taller than three stories, or the height of the cathedral.

We concentrated our time in the Old Town section of Santa Fe.  We began by taking aIMG_20150523_130410 90 minute trolley tour that gave us a nice history of the town and took us to some areas we may not have found on our own.  We rode past a statue of Sacagawea, IMG_20150523_124114IMG_20150523_123636IMG_20150523_124811some interesting art and metal work, and ended up at a huge bronze replica of a stagecoach on the Santa Fe Trail.  This section of New Mexico is full of information on the Santa Fe Trail and there are signs everywhere showing where the trail came through.  Likewise there are signs denoting Historic Route 66 along the roadways.

The Palace of the Governors was built inIMG_20150523_134742IMG_20150523_122621 1610 and is considered one of the oldest public buildings in the U.S.  Along the sidewalks around the building you find many Native Americans selling handmade items.  Our tour guide said they have to show up very early in the morning to participate in a lottery system to get a spot on the sidewalk amid the tourists.

The San Miguel Mission Church, constructed in 1610, is thought to be the country’s oldest active church.IMG_20150523_123110

The beautiful Cathedral Basilica of St Francis of Assisi is one of the few buildings in the city that is not adobe.  Since it was a Saturday the church bells were frequently ringing as one wedding ended and immediately limousine doors would open and another bride emerged to enter the church.IMG_20150523_134308IMG_20150523_145041IMG_20150523_145208

Santa Fe was a very unique town and we really enjoyed our time there.

 

May 20, 2015 Los Alamos, New Mexico

We left Mancos, Colorado and drove five hours to White Rock, New Mexico just outside of Los Alamos.  There is plenty of nothing between Mancos and White Rock in the way of towns, but the scenery was beautiful.  Southwest Colorado looks very much like New Mexico.  The snow capped Jemez Mountains provided a gorgeous backdrop to the towering red rock formations in northern New Mexico.IMG_20150519_143826IMG_20150519_143837IMG_20150519_144041IMG_20150519_144517

We arrived at the White Rock RV Park which is located next to the White Rock Visitors Center. The park only provides electrical hookups, but since we had originally planned on dry camping in the area and the nights were cold, we were very thankful for the electricity.

We had two main reasons for visiting this area.  One reason was to visit Bandelier National Monument.  Established in 1916, this park is one of the National Park Service’s oldest sites.  Evidence of Ancestral Pueblo people is shown by petroglyphs, multi-story adobe dwellings and dwellings in the rock cliffs going back over 11,000 years.  The park is made up of over 33,000 acres of canyons and mesas.  The Rio Grande River, a mere trickle now, flowed nearby.  To reach the park entrance you have to drive up an elevation change of 1,000 feet and then down 800 feet to the visitor center.IMG_20150520_123526

We first stopped by the Visitors Center in Frijoles Canyon to see a movie about the park.  They had a large area of exhibits about the Pueblo people.  We noticed on the time lines they had BCE or CE after the dates.  I walked over and asked one of the rangers about the initials.  He told us the initials BCE stood for Before Common Era and CE stood for Common Era and those initials now took the place of BC and AD.  Bill and I both found that troubling and will make a point from now on to see what appears on other park displays around the country.

We walked the main loop trail that took us past the remains of ancient homes called the Tyuonyi Village.  IMG_20150520_134508IMG_20150520_135632IMG_20150520_135647IMG_20150520_141119Starting in approximately 1150 AD, the Ancestral Pueblo people began to build homes in this area, the Pajarito Plateau. The interesting walk included walking up and down stone steps through narrow passages which led us to cliff homes built into the rock face.  IMG_20150520_141219We could climb ladders into the homes like the Pueblo did thousands of years ago.  By the mid 1500’s the Ancestral Pueblo deserted these homes and moved further south along the Rio Grande. One thing we especially noticed was the pumice appearance of the rocks in the cliff face.IMG_20150520_140823IMG_20150520_140854IMG_20150520_141440IMG_20150520_141447

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This is a back wall of a three story high adobe dwelling

By the way, the park is named for Adolph Bandelier, an anthropologist who studied and explored much of the southwest.

Our second reason for visiting the area was to learn more about the Manhattan Project.  It was in Los Alamos that some top scientists and engineers, led by J. Robert Oppenheimer, perfected new nuclear technologies in World War II that led to the world’s first atomic bombs.IMG_20150521_160636

Formerly the Los Alamos Ranch School, established in 1917 and closed in 1943, the buildings and roads from the school were just the right remote location for the United States Government’s Project Y of the top secret Manhattan Project.  “One way the Los Alamos school differed from other health schools at the time was its integration with Boy Scouts. Boys in the school belonged to Los Alamos Troop 22, the first mounted scout troop in the country and now one of the nation’s oldest continuous troops.” see History of the Los Alamos Ranch SchoolIMG_20150521_120129IMG_20150521_115616

We made the short drive from our campsite at White Rock up another 1,000 feet in elevation to the mesas of Los Alamos and first toured the Los Alamos Historical Museum with several rooms of exhibits and artifacts of Los Alamos from the times of the Ancestral Pueblo to the Manhattan Project, with emphasis on the latter.  IMG_20150520_154001IMG_20150521_122204We then drove to the nearby Bradbury Science Museum, a magnificent and impressive museum with movies and over 40 interactive exhibits on the Manhattan Project and the ongoing science and research of Los Alamos National Laboratory. IMG_20150521_153706There were three main galleries focusing on Defense, Research and History.  In the Defense gallery they had models of Little Boy and Fat Man, the first nuclear bombs dropped on Japan that ended World War II.  IMG_20150521_152007IMG_20150521_152042IMG_20150521_151014A movie told us about the Los Alamos National Laboratory and its current mission to maintain the country’s aging weapons without nuclear testing.  In the History section of the museum we saw an excellent movie about the Manhattan Project and Los Alamos from 1942 to 1945 that showed us what life was like back then.IMG_20150521_151503

We have visited many museums over the years and almost all of them have charged an admission.  Both the Los Alamos Historical Museum and the Bradbury Science Museum were free of charge.  The Bradbury Science Museum is funded by the Department of Energy, so I guess we are paying admission in a round about way!

Located today in Los Alamos is the Los Alamos National Laboratory.  The facility is called one of the premier scientific institutions in the world.  It has an annual budget exceeding $2 billion, has 2,100 individual facilities across 38 square miles of Los Alamos, and employs 11,000 people.  The Lab is operated for the U.S. Department of Energy by Los Alamos National Security.  The core mission of the Laboratory is national security in regard to ensuring the safety and reliability of nuclear deterrent, reduce the proliferation of weapons of mass destruction and to counter terrorism.

There are no tours of the Laboratory and security around the facility is tight.  When we were driving from Bandelier National Monument back to our campsite the road took us through land owned by the Lab.  As we were exiting the area we had to go through a checkpoint where Bill had to show his driver’s license and explain where we were going.  The guard then said, “Do you vouch?” Bill said, “What?????” The guard then said, “Do you vouch for your passenger?” Strange.  Why didn’t he just ask for my driver’s license too!

We enjoyed our time in the White Rock/Los Alamos area.  We found the drivers to be especially courteous and the people friendly.  We loved our campsite where we could look out the windows at snow capped mountains.  The weather was chilly during the day and cold at night.  During our time there we had some very heavy rain and a few thunderstorms, one of which presented us with a gorgeous rainbow.PANO_20150521_192044

February 4, 2015 Lake Havasu and Yuma, Arizona

We left the dazzling lights of Las Vegas and headed back towards Arizona. We decided to break up the trip by staying overnight in Quartzsite at the same spot we had previously stayed. On the way we decided to stop in Lake Havasu to see the London Bridge. Yes, a real London Bridge.

The old London Bridge of nursery rhyme fame was built between 1176 and 1209. During its 600 years, over 30 severed heads of traitors were displayed on the bridge as was the custom of the time.IMG_3489IMG_3488IMG_3490

By the end of the eighteenth century the old London Bridge needed extensive repair and was too narrow for river traffic. The new bridge was begun in 1799 and completed in 1831. However as time passed the new bridge began sinking at a rate of an inch every eight years. By 1924 the east side of the bridge was three to four inches lower than the west side. The bridge simply had not been designed to withstand 20th century automobile traffic. In 1967 the city of London placed the bridge on the market.

On April 18, 1968, the winning bid went to entrepreneur and Lake Havasu City founder Robert P. McCulloch for $2,460,000. Each block of the bridge was meticulously numbered before the bridge was disassembled and shipped overseas through the Panama Canal to California and then trucked from Long Beach to Arizona. The bridge was reconstructed in Lake Havasu City and finally dedicated on October 10, 1971. Including the expense for relocation and reassembly, the total cost of the bridge was $5.1 million.

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Colorado River held up by Parker dam

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Havasu Springs resort area

Lake Havasu City was incorporated in 1978 and became a legal municipality in 1987. It is quite a young city which makes the growth we saw pretty amazing. The city has shopping malls including a Dillards, as well as many box stores and restaurants. The motto of Lake Havasu is “Play Like You Mean It”. The city appears to be popular with snowbirds, though we did not see as many RV parks as other cities in Arizona.

As we continued on our way to Quartzsite we passed beautiful Lake Havasu Springs Resort. It certainly looked like a beautiful place to spend some time in the winter!

After a quick overnight stop in Quartzsite we continued on to Yuma where we stayed for a week. We drove over to Los Algodones, Mexico one day where Bill got a great deal on some sunglasses and had shrimp tacos for lunch. I got a great haircut, wash and blow dry for $10. The only downside to the day was the 90 minute wait to get through customs and walk back across the border. It seems every snowbird in Arizona was in Los Algodones that day making for very long lines. We spent the wait chatting with other snowbirds and watching all the vendors walk up and down the sidewalk trying to make that last sale before we crossed back over into the US.

While we were in Yuma the temperatures hovered in the upper 80’s. Life is tough!IMG_20150208_143436~2

February 2, 2015 Las Vegas, Nevada Part 2

Another day we headed down to the strip where we walked around beautiful Caesar’s Palace with its statues, fountains, a colorful dragon in the Forum Shops area, and the first curved escalator we had ever seen.  With all the twists and turns throughout the enormous Palace, it was very easy to get lost.IMG_20150203_111921IMG_20150203_113827IMG_20150203_111718IMG_20150203_120529

We attended a Rod Stewart concert at the Coliseum in Caesar’s Palace.  He put on a great show and at one point walked into the audience very close to where we were sitting.  The show ended with colorful balloons falling from the ceiling as he performed his closing number.  It is hard to believe he turned 70 last month!IMG_20150203_210041IMG_20150203_191212~2~2IMG_20150203_203724IMG_20150203_210506

After the concert we walked over to the Bellagio to see their nightly water and light show.  The Las Vegas strip is an amazing place to see at night with all the lights!IMG_20150203_213240IMG_20150203_213553IMG_20150203_213214IMG_20150203_212429