Category Archives: Museum

Ely, MN June 23, 2017

We woke up to 48 degrees and a heavy fog on our travel day from Grand Marais to Ely, Minnesota.  By the time we were ready to pull out of the campground, the fog had lifted and we saw blue sky.

We headed south and west to Ely, MN.  The roads could have been worse, but they certainly could have been better too.  We said goodbye to Lake Superior, passing several small waterfalls along the side of the road.  The fields of wildflowers were lovely but unfortunately do not show up well when taking a picture from a moving vehicle.

Three hours later we arrived at Fall Lake Campground, a national forest campground in Superior National Forest.  Many campsites are not reservable so we got up at 6:30 AM to get there in plenty of time to secure a site, especially since campgrounds fill up very early in the summer the closer you get to the weekend.  We rarely get up that early, even on travel days!  Our early bird plans got us the worm since we were able to get a pull through site with 50 amp power.

IMG_20170624_150317Ely, population 3,400, is located at the gateway of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. The wilderness is a million acres of ancient forest and 1,500 waterways still untouched by civilization and is the largest wilderness area east of the Rockies.  The best way to experience it is by canoe like the Native Americans, trappers, fur traders and explorers did centuries ago. There are thousands of miles of canoe routes which are linked by rivers, lakes and portages.

The number one attraction in Ely is fishing with access to more than 5,000 lakes, streams and rivers in the area.  It is common to see fishing lodges, canoe outfitters, and many boats, canoes and kayaks everywhere.  It is said this part of Minnesota has some of the best fishing in North America.

Nicknamed “The End of the Road” because of its extreme north remote location, Ely was first home to the Ojibwe people in the late 1600’s, followed by the first French explorers in the early 1700’s.  Trapping and fur trade quickly grew and in the mid 1800’s the gold craze had begun.  Even though the region never produced gold, the precious metal iron ore was discovered.  Northern Minnesota’s early ore mines helped greatly with the needs of the nation’s steel industry.  Ore exploration led to the growth of the logging industry in the region. By the 1900’s recreational activities such as fishing, hunting and canoeing turned the area prevalently into a tourism industry.

Ely got its name from a rare rock formation known as Ely greenstone which formed more than two billion years ago when lava flows solidified underwater.  An outcropping of the Ely greenstone is visible in the town and is known as Pillow Rocks.IMG_20170623_162036

We enjoyed the many murals around town showing the rich history of the region.IMG_20170624_14405220170624_14334120170624_143238

On Friday we drove to the nearby town of Soudan to visit the Soudan Underground Mine State Park.  Our purpose for coming here was to take the underground mine tour.  IMG_20170623_10324020170623_104047We donned hardhats and rode the mine elevator shaft 2,341 feet underground.  IMG_20170623_112326IMG_20170623_112352We then boarded railroad cars that took us through a 3,000 foot tunnel deeper into the mine.  We climbed a narrow spiral staircase to reach Level 27 in the mine.  We had an excellent guide who talked about the process of mining iron ore as well as what working conditions were like for the miners. 20170623_112556He let us experience the mine without any lighting and then with a single candle. Miners had to provide there own lights and safety gear for many years. IMG_20170623_113802

During the gold rush of 1865, one prospector didn’t discover gold but he did discover iron ore which led to the mine opening in 1882. The mine is known as Minnesota’s oldest, deepest and richest iron mine and one of the richest iron ore deposits in the world.  The mine is 1.5 miles long and is part of the Vermilion Iron Range along the shore of Lake Vermilion.  It is called the Soudan Iron Mine and the ore from the mine was especially valuable because this ore had a high oxygen content that was used to make high quality steel in open-hearth furnaces.  Only this Minnesota mine and one other one in Michigan had this high oxygen content ore.  In 1962, technology changed and this type of ore was no longer economical.  Also the use of taconite pellets made from a low grade iron ore became popular.  Due to these two factors, the Soudan Mine closed in 1962. In 1965, US Steel donated the Soudan Mine to the State of Minnesota to use for educational purposes.20170623_10364820170623_104105

It was fascinating to be lowered in an 80-year-old electric mine hoist (elevator) and then travel in rail cars to tour the mine.  We really enjoyed our visit and had an even larger appreciation for what working conditions were like for miners in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.

IMG_20170623_161646After a picnic lunch in the car (cold and windy), we drove back to Ely and toured the International Wolf Center.  This is one of the top attractions in Ely and highly advertised.  We toured the facility with informative displays and sat in on a program on wolves.  We were a little disappointed they only had five wolves at the facility and we only saw three Arctic wolves visible behind glass.IMG_20170623_15585120170623_16003620170623_160240IMG_20170623_160508

Last year the center received two Arctic Wolves.IMG_20170623_143230

Here is what one of the new wolves look like today.IMG_20170623_155448

This is a collection of the wolf playing with his stick (animated).

Wolves are big animals.IMG_20170623_143636IMG_20170623_143645

On Saturday Bill attended the Ham Radio Field Day in Ely.  This once a year National Amateur Radio Field Day is held at public locations around the country.  The purpose of this event is to showcase amateur radio and allow people to experiment with electronics and radios.  In 2016 over 35,000 people from thousands of locations participated in Field Day.  Last year Bill participated with a group in New York.  Bill really enjoyed his time with the friendly Ely radio club. They entertainment Bill with stories of winter ice fishing and talked about the black bears they regularly feed.  One man spends the winter in Arizona at an RV park we are scheduled to visit in November so we will look him up!IMG_20170624_114850  

Next up:. Voyageur National Park and a boat ride

Ely recognitions:

  • 2016 “One of the World’s 9 Places to Go to Enjoy the Great Outdoors” (National Geographic)
  • 2014 “One of 10 Great Small Towns to Visit” (MSN Living Magazine)
  • 2012 “America’s Most Interesting Town” (Reader’s Digest)
  • 2009 “100 Best Adventure Towns” (National Geographic Adventure Magazine)
  • 2009 “One of the Top Best Small Towns in the Country” (Outside Magazine)

And many more not mentioned

Duluth, MN Part 2, June 16, 2017

On Friday we decided to drive from Duluth on what is called the North Shore Scenic Drive on Rt 61 along the shoreline of Lake Superior.  It was a beautiful day to enjoy the drive and the gorgeous scenery.IMG_20170616_120840

The Drive is 150 miles long from Duluth to Thunder Bay, Ontario with views of Lake Superior, glacier carved Sawtooth Mountains and Superior National Forest.  Along the way we suddenly spotted Bigfoot!!20170618_121048

We decided to only drive 55 miles and work our way back while stopping at points of interest.  Our first stop was at Tettegouche State Park where we took a short hike to an overlook with views of Lake Superior.20170618_12140820170618_124208

We had a picnic lunch at Palisade Head, an overlook 200 feet above Lake Superior.  We drank in the amazing views while enjoying lunch.IMG_20170616_123410IMG_20170616_123656

After lunch we found a geocache and Bill found a new friend!IMG_20170616_130011

IMG_20170616_132106Next we passed through the tiny towns of Silver Bay and Beaver Bay before stopping at Split Rock Lighthouse. The lighthouse, said to be the most visited spot on the North Shore, sits atop a sheer cliff 150 feet above Lake Superior and is one of the best preserved and most visited lighthouses in the country.  Split Rock Lighthouse was put into service in 1910.  It was built by the federal government because of a disastrous 1905 storm that sank or damaged 29 ships on Lake Superior.  This lighthouse was completely built from the lakeside because there were no roads at that time.  20170616_143221IMG_20170616_134424IMG_20170616_133838IMG_20170616_134226

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This is the light mechanism

In 1969 the lighthouse was decommissioned and deeded to the state of Minnesota.  It is a National Historic Landmark.  For a fee you can tour the lighthouse, a fog signal building, an oil house, three keepers’ houses, and storage barns.  The lighthouse and buildings appear as they did in the 1920’s.

Split Rock is also a 2,057 acre Minnesota state park but the lighthouse is maintained by the Minnesota Historical Society.

Then we drove to Gooseberry Falls State Park so we could hike to Gooseberry Falls.  It was an easy hike to the two beautiful falls.IMG_20170616_15110320170616_151055IMG_20170616_151957

On the way home we stopped at the Two Harbors Lighthouse which is now a bed and breakfast and the only operating lighthouse in Minnesota.  Built in 1892, it is on the National Register of Historic Places.IMG_20170616_104947

It was a really great day with three state parks, two lighthouses, a beautiful overlook and some amazing scenery.

IMG_20170617_115916Saturday, our last day in Duluth, we drove across the bridge to Wisconsin.  We wanted to visit Pattison State Park thirteen miles south of Superior, Wisconsin.  The park is the location of Big Manitou Falls, which at 165 feet is the highest falls in Wisconsin and the fourth largest waterfall east of the Rockies.  It is said to be the same height as Niagara Falls, just a lot skinnier.

We had to walk in a tunnel under the road and then it was an easy hike to the viewpoints.  The water flows from the Black River and gets its dark color from decaying leaves and roots of vegetation.20170617_115205IMG_20170617_115227IMG_20170617_115621

Here is a video below we made of the falls.

After viewing the falls we found a geocache hidden in a tree.20170617_121638

This state park was very pretty with 80+ handcrafted stone and log buildings and structures built in the 1930’s by the CCC.  We really enjoyed this park, as well as the three Minnesota state parks we visited the day before, all possible because of the hard work of the young men of the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps).

We enjoyed our six days in Duluth.  There were lots of things left to do.  Until next time!

Lake Superior facts:

  • Lake Superior is the largest freshwater lake in the country, bigger than all the other Great Lakes combined. It is 350 miles long, 160 miles wide and has a surface area of 31,700 square miles
  • It contains 10% of the world’s fresh water with a volume of 440 trillion cubic feet
  • Average depth is 439 feet, with its deepest depth at 1,333 feet
  • Average water temperature is 42 degrees
  • There has been over 350 shipwrecks with more than 1,000 souls lost
  • Last time Lake Superior completely froze over was 1997, it was 90% frozen in 2013

Next stop:. Grand Marais, MN

Duluth, MN Part 1 June 12, 2017

On Monday we left Wild River State Park and headed further northeast to Duluth.  As we approached Duluth we had splendid views of Lake Superior.  Duluth with a population of 86,000, is located on Lake Superior and the St Louis River.  It is one of the largest inland seaports in the world and an important grain center.  All along the busy forty-nine miles of dock waterfront, you can see grain elevators, ore docks and shipyards.  Duluth has plenty of outside activities with more than 130 city parks, 178 miles of trails, and sixteen designated trout streams.IMG_20170612_153958

Duluth has a rich history.  In 1869, due to the booming lumber and mining industries as well as the arrival of the railroad, it was the fastest growing city in the United States. We crossed the railroad tracks to get to the campground and we saw this strange sign.IMG_20170614_132225

When we arrived at the campground it was 80+ degrees and sunny.  The next day it barely reached 50 degrees and was overcast with occasional rain showers.  

Wednesday was more of the same with a heavy fog blanketing the area and we heard occasional fog horns in the distance.  We didn’t want to spend another day at home missing all Duluth had to offer, so we bundled up and decided to visit two museums downtown.

The first was a very small museum called the Karpeles Manuscript Library Museum.  It was a museum we probably wouldn’t have taken time to visit on a sunny day, but on a cold rainy day it was great.  The library museum, housing one of the world’s largest private manuscript collections, is inside a former Christian Scientist Church. It had original manuscripts, documents and handwritten letters, including letters from the Wright Brothers, small collections of Egyptian carvings, old telephones, ship models, and Plains Indians Treaties.  Currently they have a special collection on Bob Dylan.  Dylan was born in Duluth and went to elementary school there.  There is a 1.8 stretch of road in Duluth named “Bob Dylan Way”.  The manuscript library had some of his personal handwritten letters, handwritten sheet music and a copy of his 2016 Nobel Prize in Literature.  We found out he was born Robert Zimmerman and changed his name to Bob Dylan.  They had a copy of the court order application to change his name.  IMG_20170614_150854IMG_20170614_151025IMG_20170614_151031IMG_20170614_152142IMG_20170614_152159

We learned the owners of the museum, David and Marsha Karpeles of California, also own museums in Jacksonville, FL, Buffalo, NY, Newburgh, NY, Tacoma, WA, Charleston, SC and Santa Barbara, CA.  The collections are rotated among the museums.  The Karpeles think that once someone has mastered textbooks and reference books in their field, they can then verify, analyze and extend their knowledge by examining and consulting original manuscripts written in an individual’s own handwriting.  The Karpeles see it as a way to see a person’s first thoughts since you can see on the documents thoughts and ideas crossed out, ideas added but left out in the final document, as well as additional thoughts added later between the lines.

20170614_160527Next we visited the Lake Superior Maritime Visitor Center.  Here they had informative displays on the history of Lake Superior shipping including replicas of ship cabins, an operating steam engine, scale models of ships and information on shipwrecks and bridges.  They also had interesting displays on the history of the Army Corps of Engineers.  We learned Congress authorized a Corps of Engineers in 1779 to support the Continental Congress.  Its first mission was the building of fortifications to defend Boston at the Battle of Bunker Hill.  After victory at Yorktown and peace in 1783, the Corps of Engineers was dissolved to save money.  IMG_20170614_155435IMG_20170614_155816IMG_20170614_160131

In 1802 President Thomas Jefferson signed legislation to organize and establish a Corps of Engineers to be stationed at West Point and to constitute a military academy.  They played a large role during the Civil War while building roads and railroad bridges, forts and batteries and destroying enemy supply lines.  In the 20th century the Corps of Engineers contributed much to military construction in supporting the U.S. Army and Air Force as well as works of a civil nature.  They helped with federal flood control, hydroelectric energy and the country’s leading provider of recreational facilities.

Corps of Engineers projects included:

  • In Washington DC
    • Construction of the Washington Monument
    • US Capitol dome
    • Lincoln Memorial
    • Library of Congress
    • Washington DC water supply system and subways
  • Panama Canal
  • Bonneville Dam
  • The Manhattan Project
  • Planning and construction of the Pentagon
  • Everglades Restoration Plan
  • Construction at the Kennedy Space Center

We decided to run to Walmart to get some supplies and it was actually faster and closer to the campground to cross the bridge to Superior, Wisconsin than go to the one in Duluth.  The ports of Duluth and Superior are called “Twin Ports”.  They are the leading bulk cargo transshipment ports on the Great Lakes-St Lawrence Seaway system.  More than forty million tons of bulk cargo are shipped in and out each season, the most of the Great Lakes and one of the top twenty nationally.

On Thursday the temperature rose and the skies cleared so we decided to tour the Duluth lakefront area.  We parked at Bayfront Festival Park and walked over four miles.  Along the way we saw a replica of the Statue of Liberty,IMG_20170615_131340IMG_20170615_131438

Minnesota Slip Bridge,IMG_20170615_132333

the Aerial Lift Bridge,IMG_20170615_13063820170615_133234

Korean and Vietnam War Memorials,IMG_20170615_135126IMG_20170615_135104

and Leif Erikson Park where Erikson made his legendary landing somewhere along the rocky shore in approximately 1,001 AD (almost 500 years before Columbus).  IMG_20170615_141712IMG_20170615_141725

IMG_20170615_132916We also found the Duluth’s Ten Commandments Monument.  In 1946 a judge, who was a member of the Fraternal Order of the Eagles, sentenced a sixteen year old boy to memorize the Ten Commandments.  This led local chapters of the Fraternal Order of the Eagles to to finance construction of over 4,000 tablet shaped granite monuments to be dispersed around the nation.  Two Minnesota granite companies produced the monuments and in 1957 the monuments were donated to public places around the country.  This was done at the same time as the release of the movie “The Ten Commandments” and some stars of the film attended various monument dedications around the country.  This monument was displayed in front of the Duluth City Hall for almost 47 years.  Due to a threatened lawsuit by the American Civil Liberties Union of Minnesota it was removed in May 2004 and put up for auction.  Local citizens rallied to raise money but the winning bid came from a church in Lakeville, MN.  The church gave the monument to a group of Duluth citizens who placed it here on private property in late 2004.  

We enjoyed the great walk on a nice paved walkway with magnificent views of Lake Superior.  Across the Lake we could see Wisconsin in the distance.IMG_20170615_135432IMG_20170615_142819

After our walk we drove across the Aerial Lift Bridge to Park Point which is the world’s longest freshwater sandbar, spanning seven miles.  This area is popular for swimming and beach lovers.  We saw a sign saying the water temperature that day was 51 degrees.  Yikes!

On the way home we were held up at the Aerial Lift Bridge while we waited for the Mesabi Miner ship to pass under the bridge.  We were thrilled because we were able to see this very unusual 386 foot long bridge in action.  It is an elevator bridge that spans the Duluth Ship Canal.  The support columns on either side have counterweights that balance the lifting portion of the bridge.  The bridge can be raised to its full clearance of 135 feet in about a minute and has a 1,000 ton lift span.  It was first raised in 1930 and is raised about 5,000 times a year. The Mesabi Miner is an American coal and iron ore carrier that operates on the upper four North American Great Lakes.IMG_20170615_154407IMG_20170615_155333IMG_20170615_155354

Next blog: More exploring along the Minnesota North Shore

Minnesota Facts:

  • The company Target’s headquarters is in Minnesota.
  • Famous people from Minnesota include Judy Garland, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Peanuts cartoonist Charles Shultz, Bob Dylan, Prince, novelist Sinclair Lewis, former wrestler, actor and governor Jesse Ventura, Loni Anderson, Richard Dean Anderson, James Arness (Gunsmoke) and brother Peter Graves (Mission: Impossible), Eugene McCarthy, former Vice President Walter Mondale, Harry Reasoner, Jane Russell, Marion Ross

Eyota, MN June 5, 2017

We left Forest City, Iowa and headed north towards Minnesota, another new state for us.  Even though Minnesota is known as “The Land of 10,000 Lakes”, the landscape between Iowa and southern Minnesota did not really change.  We continued to see farmland, silos and many wind turbines.  All beautiful scenery.

Our next stop was four nights at Chester Woods County Park in Eyota.  I wasn’t happy to see the signs at the park entrance warning of ticks and Lyme Disease.  It was a nice county park with electric only sites.  It was about a fifth full while we were there during the week.  I am sure it is full on the weekends.

IMG_20170606_111725One day we drove to Austin, MN to visit the SPAM Museum.  The museum included interactive exhibits and galleries on the history of the company, but was mainly dedicated to their product, SPAM.  We didn’t know what to expect but found the museum very interesting.  We were welcomed by a friendly greeter and then immediately someone came over to give us a free sample of their teriyaki SPAM.  Bill said it was good, I passed.20170606_115430IMG_20170606_114530IMG_20170606_11252520170606_112424

Hormel Foods Corporation is based in Austin, Minnesota.  It was founded in 1891 by George A. Hormel and named George A. Hormel & Company.  In 1993 the name was changed to Hormel Foods.  Today they have 40 manufacturing and distribution facilities.  They developed the world’s first canned ham in 1926.  20170606_112512Dinty Moore beef stew and Hormel Chili was introduced in 1935.  When the Federal Government abruptly ended a Depression era program to aid livestock farmers which left Hormel with 500,000 empty cans, they decided to sell beef stew.   They acquired the Dinty Moore name from another company and sold beef stew for 15 cents a can.  

20170606_114800When Hormel introduced their Hormel Chili Con Carne they organized a twenty piece Mexican song and dance troupe called The Hormel Chili Beaners to promote the product and give away samples.  They also offered double money back to anyone dissatisfied with their chili.  

SPAM luncheon meat was introduced in 1937.IMG_20170606_11222320170606_113217

In 1941 Congress passed the Lend-Lease Act, in which the U.S. agreed to provide “as much aid, short of war,” to the people of Great Britain, France and Russia.  In response, Hormel Foods supplied 15 million cans weekly.  By 1945 over 133 million cans (100 million pounds) of SPAM, had been shipped overseas to feed hungry soldiers and civilians. Nikita Khrushchev once said, “Without SPAM, we wouldn’t have been able to feed our army”.IMG_20170606_11240520170606_112959

In 1942, the Austin Hormel Foods facility became a War Facility with its workers photographed and fingerprinted and its perimeter fenced.  During World War Two, 1,961 Hormel employees went off to to serve with written promises they would have jobs when they returned.  By 1944 more than 90% of the canned food produced by Hormel Foods was destined for war operations.  Supplying food to troops has continued through the Korean, Vietnam and Persian Gulf Wars and recently in the Middle East.20170606_113404

SPAM Fun Facts:
  • SPAM can be stored in the can for up to five years.
  • SPAM is sold in 44 countries around the world.
  • Over 8 billion cans of SPAM products have been sold.
  • Guam is the largest consumer of SPAM with an annual average of 16 cans per person.  Hawaii is second.20170606_112611
  • The SPAM JAM Festival is one of Hawaii’s largest festivals every year.
  • There are now over thirteen varieties of SPAM.20170606_113204
  • SPAM products are made from six simple ingredients.IMG_20170606_114139
  • Hawaii consumes 8+ million cans a year, more SPAM products than any other state.  It is sold all over the islands including at 7-Eleven, McDonalds and Burger King.  
  • In 2015 the SPAM Portuguese Sausage was created for Hawaii.20170606_112914
  • Dwight Eisenhower said in a letter to Hormel Foods on their 75th anniversary, “I ate my share of SPAM along with millions of soldiers.  I’ll even confess to a few unkind remarks about it.  As former Commander in Chief, I officially forgive you of your only sin: sending us so much of it”.
  • A U.S. Marine on leave from the South Pacific once said, “You never fully realize how delicious and good SPAM really is until you taste it out here in the bottom of a fox hole”.
Minnesota Fun Facts:
  • Even though it is nicknamed “Land of 10,000 Lakes”, there are actually around 15,000 lakes in Minnesota.
  • Legend is that Paul Bunyan’s Blue Ox named Babe trampled the land leaving his footprints in the mud which created 10,000 lakes.  Along roadways throughout Minnesota are statues of Paul Bunyan and Babe.  The real geological story is the grinding force of advancing and retreating glaciers left behind beautiful lakes and vast, fertile prairie.
  • The state was built by immigrants from Scandinavia, Germany, Finland, and other areas of Europe.
  • Early settlers used prairie grass sod that was cut and stacked to build crude shelters.  Many lived in these for years until they could afford to build a wooden prairie home.  This is described​ in Laura Ingalls Wilder’s account in “Little House on the Prairie”.
  • Minnesota is known for formidable winters with intense cold and large amounts of snow.  The first snowmobile was used in Minnesota.
  • The first permanent settlement was in 1819 at Fort St Anthony, later renamed Fort Snelling.
  • In 1858 Minnesota became the 32nd state.
  • In 1863 Dr William Mayo started a medical practice in Rochester that later became the Mayo Clinic.

West Branch, IA May 30, 2017

20170530_115021(1)On Tuesday May 30th we left Hannibal, Missouri and soon crossed over into Iowa, a new state for us.  On the way north we made a stop at the Herbert Hoover Presidential Library and Museum in West Branch, Iowa.  Another presidential library to mark off the list!IMG_20170530_141859

We started at the Visitors Center where we watched a twelve minute movie.  Then we began a walking tour of the area.  When Hoover was born in 1874 the town of West Branch had a population of 350 people who were mainly farmers.  IMG_20170530_150534Hoover’s father did not like farming so he had a blacksmith shop.  The walking tour around the Herbert Hoover National Historic Site included his birthplace cottage, the schoolhouse where he attended school, the Friends Meetinghouse where he attended church as a young boy with his family and a replica of his father’s blacksmith shop.IMG_20170530_144912

IMG_20170530_150506The birthplace cottage, 14 by 20 feet and built in 1871, was sold and later bought and restored by Herbert Hoover and his wife.  Hoover said the cottage “was physical proof of the unbounded opportunity of American life”.

The schoolhouse was built in 1853.  This Quaker community believed strongly in education for both boys and girls.  We saw evidence of how Hoover’s Quaker upbringing and faith shaped his life as we toured the Presidential Library and Museum.IMG_20170530_165204

The Friends Meetinghouse, built in 1857, was simply furnished with wooden benches and an iron stove.  Hoover’s family belonged to the Religious Society of Friends (Quakers), and his mother was a minister and devout Quaker who often spoke on temperance and other causes.  Services of silent meditation were held here twice a week.  People sat for long periods of time waiting for anyone who had an insight or spiritual message to feel compelled to speak.  Hoover said those services lasting hours taught him great patience and “intense repression”.  20170530_164919Notice in the picture there is a partition that could be lowered between the two sides.  Men and women were separated with the idea that the separation would allow women to feel more free to speak up.

IMG_20170530_150733Also in the historic area was a statue of Isis, the Egyptian Goddess of Life.  It was given to Herbert Hoover by the children and citizens of Belgium in gratitude for his work on their behalf during and after World War I when he was Chairman of Commission for Relief in Belgium.IMG_20170530_150719

IMG_20170530_151111Next was the Presidential Library and Museum, built in 1962 and dedicated by former Presidents Hoover and Truman.  The library/museum was small but well done and gave us great insight into our 31st President.  Before this visit we thought of Hoover as a lesser known President who led us into the Great Depression and was a failure as President.  We came away with a greater appreciation of Hoover the man and the struggles he faced as president.

As a young child Hoover faced great tragedy.  His father died in 1880 when Hoover was six.  His mother used life insurance money to buy food and clothing and did needlepoint to bring in extra money.  His mother made sure the children remained strong in their community, school and religious activities.  Four years later in 1884 he was orphaned at the age of ten when his mother died of typhoid and pneumonia.  Hoover and his two siblings were split up when Hoover went to live with a maternal aunt and uncle in Oregon he hardly knew.  He left West Branch with a suitcase full of clothing, a little food, and two dimes sewn in his clothing.  His siblings remained in Iowa but in separate homes.

In Oregon he was quickly put to work, spending long hours helping at home.  His time there was not a happy one, though his aunt and uncle loved him and taught him a strong work ethic. He dropped out of school at the age of thirteen and went to work at his uncle’s real estate office. He later went to night school and attended Stanford University where he graduated with a degree in mining.  While at Stanford he met his wife, Lou Henry.

After graduation he worked as a mining engineer in Nevada, California and Australia.  Later Hoover and his wife lived in China where he was a chief mining engineer.  While in China the Boxer Rebellion trapped them there in 1900.  While the city they lived in was under fire, the Hoovers worked to help defend the city, with Hoover guiding U.S. Marines around during the battle because he knew the terrain.  Mrs. Hoover helped in hospitals and was fearless as she carried on her duties with a 38 pistol strapped to her side.

20170530_151504Hoover became an independent mining consultant, traveling around the world, and becoming a millionaire by the age of 40.  He had investments on every continent and offices in San Francisco, London, New York City, St Petersburg, Paris and Burma.  He specialized in helping troubled mining operations, bringing them back into the black and taking a share of the profits for his expertise. By 1914 he had an estimated fortune of $4 million.

After World War I began in 1914, Hoover helped organize the return of around 120,000 Americans from Europe, distributing food, clothing, steamship tickets and cash.  When Belgium suffered a food crisis after they were invaded by Germany in 1914, Hoover led an immense relief effort to feed the entire Nation during the war.  They obtained and imported millions of tons of food to distribute to the Belgium people, being sure none of it went to the German army.

20170530_152125In 1917 President Woodrow Wilson appointed Hoover to head the U.S. Food Administration to ensure the United State’s food needs during the war. Hoover believed “food will win the war” and in an attempt to avoid rationing he came up with “meatless Mondays, wheatless Wednesdays and the slogan when in doubt eat potatoes”.

After his efforts during World War I, Hoover was well known, perhaps second only to President Wilson.  His rags to riches story and humanitarian efforts were very appealing to the American people.  But it wasn’t yet his time to achieve success in politics though he considered running in 1920.

After Harding was elected president in 1920, he appointed Hoover as Secretary of Commerce.  He remained in that office until 1928, serving under both Harding and Coolidge.  Much of his work as Commerce Secretary centered around eliminating waste and increasing efficiency in business and industry.  He worked on the early organization, development and regulation of radio broadcasting and was influential in the early development of air travel.20170530_152826

20170530_153946He ran for president in 1928 on the Republican ticket and won a landslide victory with 58% of the popular vote.20170530_153818

Hoover held a press conference on his first day in office and in his first 120 days in office held more press conferences than any other president, then or since.

His plan was to reform the nation’s regulatory system, believing a federal bureaucracy should have limited regulation over the country’s economic system.  Hoover wanted a balance among labor, capital and the government.

Hoover early on tried to warn of the dangers of speculation and rampant investments in the Stock Market.  He tried to discourage people from uncontrolled investments and encouraged people to invest in bonds rather than stocks.  But only months after he took office the Stock Market Crash of 1929 occurred, resulting in the Great Depression.

20170530_155002Hoover implemented many policies in an attempt to pull the country out of the Depression but in 1930 the unemployment rate was 8.9%, rising to 24.9% in 1932.  Businesses had defaulted in record numbers on loans and more than 5,000 banks failed.  Homeless people lived in shantytowns called “Hoovervilles”.

Hoover believed in a balanced budget and to pay for government programs and make up for lost revenue he signed the Revenue Act of 1932 which raised taxes.  Top earners were taxed at 63%, up from 25% when Hoover took office.  Also estate tax was doubled and corporate taxes were raised almost 15%.

Hoover did not take a salary as president, instead he split his salary between a number of charities and put the rest toward the salaries of his staff.

Hoover ran against Franklin Roosevelt in 1932.  As he campaigned around the country he faced the most hostile crowds of any sitting president as he was pelted with eggs and rotten fruit and heckled during speeches.  On several occasions the Secret Service stopped attempts on his life.

20170530_154413Despite Hoover’s efforts, he was blamed for causing the Great Depression.  Roosevelt won the election 57.4% to Hoover’s 39.7%.  Roosevelt was the first Democratic Presidential nominee to win a majority of the popular vote since the Civil War.

20170530_154356Hoover left office bitter at his election loss and continuing unpopularity.  He was a constant critic of Roosevelt and the New Deal.  He wrote more than a dozen books, many critical of the New Deal, and even hoped to possibly run for president again in 1936 and 1940.  He lost to other Republican candidates both times during the nominating process.

Following World War II Hoover became friends with President Truman.  Truman appointed Hoover to a commission to reorganize the executive departments which became known as the Hoover Commission.20170530_153138

In his retirement he continued writing books and was a major fundraiser for the Boys Club of America.  He died at the age of 90 in 1964. (Mrs. Hoover passed away in 1944). They are both buried a short walk from the Presidential Library and Museum in very simple graves, reflecting the Quaker ideals.IMG_20170530_163843IMG_20170530_163809

His time as president was unfortunate.  Perhaps he is best remembered as the “Humanitarian President”.  As well as feeding millions during wartime, he increased the Federal budget to include children’s programs.  He had the first ever White House Conference on Child Health and Protection.  In 1949 he co-founded UNICEF.  He oversaw disaster relief for ten states after the Great Mississippi Flood of 1927.  He achieved unprecedented prison reform including building new prisons and increasing rights and humanitarian treatment of prisoners.  He increased the amount of land in the National Park System and canceled private oil leases on public land.  There can be no denying the influence his early life as the poor son of Quakers in a small town in Iowa had on the man who would one day become President.

IMG_20170530_142723My country owes me no debt.  It gave me, as it gives every boy and girl, a chance.  It gave me schooling, independence of action, opportunity for service and honor.  In no other land could a boy from a country village, without inheritance or influential friends, look forward with unbounded hope.  My whole life has taught me what America means.  I am indebted to my country beyond any human power to repay“.  Herbert Hoover, 1920

Next stop: Forest City, Iowa

Hannibal, MO May 28, 2017

Our time in St Louis came to an end and we left with great memories of a wonderful and historic city.  We drove north to a Corps of Engineers park outside of Hannibal, crossing the Missouri River.  The park was located on the Mark Twain Lake, a result of the construction of the Clarence Cannon Dam and Power Plant.  The campground was full for the Memorial Day weekend and we were glad to be off the road and away from the holiday traffic.

IMG_20170528_143010Our main reason for coming to Hannibal was to see the Mark Twain locations.  First we went to the tiny town of Florida, Missouri which was the birthplace of Samuel Clemens who became known as Mark Twain.  The population of the tiny town has declined over the years and according to the ranger the current population is four.  Yes, she said four!

IMG_20170528_134430The Mark Twain Birthplace and Museum, owned by the Missouri State Parks was quite impressive.  Mark Twain’s parents moved here from Tennessee in 1835 and Twain was born later that same year in November, two weeks after the appearance of Halley’s Comet.IMG_20170528_134526IMG_20170528_134545

IMG_20170528_141225He died in 1910, one day after Halley’s Comet appeared once again.  When Twain was four the family moved to Hannibal which was the inspiration for St Petersburg, the fictional home of Huckleberry Finn and Tom Sawyer. His birthplace, a two room cabin, was moved to the current site at the museum and the museum was built around the small house.IMG_20170528_142337IMG_20170528_142433IMG_20170528_143643IMG_20170528_143656

There were many exhibits on Twain’s life including a handwritten manuscript of “The Adventures of Tom Sawyer” and furnishings from his Hartford, Connecticut home.IMG_20170528_144436

Over the course of his life Twain was:

  • an apprentice for a printer (after quitting school after fifth grade),
  • riverboat pilot,
  • miner,
  • writer,
  • humorist,
  • entrepreneur,
  • publisher
  • and lecturer.

Twain’s personal life was tragic.  Twain’s father died when he was eleven.  His only son died at nineteen months, two of his three daughters and his wife Olivia predeceased him.IMG_20170528_144647IMG_20170528_144659

Twain lost a substantial amount of money on bad investments.  His writings and lectures helped him recover financially, including a year long around the world tour in 1895 for the purpose of paying off his debts.  We were surprised at the amount of time Twain and his family lived overseas in Europe, mainly England and Austria.  Later in life Twain suffered from depression due to the deaths of his wife and children.  There are no known descendants.

Afterwards we drove the short distance to the original location of the cabin where a red granite monument marks the spot.

We then drove to Hannibal, population 18,000.  Here Mark Twain tourism is evident.  There is the Mark Twain Boyhood Home and Museum (privately owned), IMG_20170528_170823IMG_20170528_163959the Mark Twain Cave and the Mark Twain Riverboat to name a few.  In the area were a number of buildings including Becky Thatcher’s house,IMG_20170528_163948IMG_20170528_163910

reconstructed Huckleberry Finn’s houseIMG_20170528_165152IMG_20170528_165124

and a statue of Tom and Huck.IMG_20170528_164821

Hannibal is a pretty little riverboat town and we walked over for a glimpse of the Mississippi River.IMG_20170528_165652IMG_20170528_165643IMG_20170528_165603IMG_20170528_165708IMG_20170528_165858

IMG_20170528_171632Before leaving town we rode by the Molly Brown Birthplace and Museum.  Molly was born in Hannibal and is best known as a survivor on the Titanic who helped with the ship’s evacuation and had to be persuaded to get into Lifeboat No. 6.  She insisted the boat go back to look for survivors and threatened to throw the crew overboard if they didn’t.  She became known as “The Unsinkable Molly Brown”.  I remember watching a movie by that name starring Debbie Reynolds in 1964 and there have been many movies and musicals about her life.

Next stop: Iowa

St Louis, MO Part 4 May 25, 2017

We originally planned to stay in the St Louis area for four nights, but it became evident we couldn’t see everything in four days so we extended our stay an additional night.

20170525_103805Thursday we had two places to visit.  First up was Grant’s Farm.  This 281 acre farm is operated by Anheuser- Busch and is the ancestral estate of the Busch family.  Open since 1954, it has 900 animals, a Clydesdale stable and breeding farm, animal shows, a collection of the Busch family’s carriages and trophies and the replica of a 19th century Bavarian village.  The farm is named in honor of Ulysses S. Grant who built a cabin here in 1856 on land he once owned and farmed.20170525_104254

The tram guide pointed out that this fence was made from welded civil war gun barrels.IMG_20170525_143127IMG_20170525_143142

Entrance to the farm is free but you do have to pay $12 to park.  The only way in and out of the farm and village area is by riding a free tram with a narrated tour of the property.  Lines to the tram can get quite long and by the time we left in the early afternoon the line stretched back to the parking area.

It would be pretty impossible for the farm to match our zoo experience the day before, and it didn’t.  We didn’t expect it to.  Our main reason for visiting Grants Farm was for the camel ride.  For $6 each we were able to mark an item off our bucket list.  We rode a camel and didn’t have to go to the Middle East to do it!  It was lots of fun riding Ruby but I found it very uncomfortable sitting on the hump, especially without a saddle.  I certainly would not want to ride one across the desert!IMG_20170525_104850IMG_20170525_105005

We attended an elephant show where the trainers told us about elephants and had the elephant do some tricks.20170525_11195120170525_111745IMG_20170525_11234120170525_112826

We had lunch at the little Bavarian village with Bill getting a Bratwurst and each visitor over 21 receiving free beer.IMG_20170525_121838IMG_20170525_122231IMG_20170525_105905IMG_20170525_105601IMG_20170525_105752

We enjoyed our time at Grant’s Farm but it is definitely geared more for small children.

IMG_20170525_142600Next we drove down the road to the Ulysses S. Grant National Historic Site.  First we watched a sixteen minute introductory film and then walked up to look at the house.  This 9.65 acre site was the family home of Grant’s wife Julia Dent.  Ulysses and Julia purchased the farm from her family during the Civil War.  Tours of the house are available but we did not take it.  IMG_20170525_132353We did spend time inside the stable which is now an interpretive museum, similar to a presidential library.  The museum was very well done and informative covering his early years, military career including leading the Union Army during the Civil War, and two terms as president from 1869-1877.  20170525_141331IMG_20170525_14240120170525_141645During his presidency he stabilized the country in the years after the war ended and enforced civil rights and voting laws.  20170525_134950He signed the Civil Rights Act of 1875 and strengthened the Republican party in the South.  His administration implemented the gold standard and tried to strengthen the dollar. He was unable to effectively halt a five year depression after the “Panic of 1873”.  This produced high unemployment and bankruptcies.  Corruption charges escalated during his second term and Grant’s administration faced more charges of corruption than any other 19th Century president.  20170525_13453220170525_134628Grant died from throat cancer in 1885 at the age of 63.  He had been a heavy cigar smoker.  He is buried at Grant’s Tomb in New York City along with his wife Julia.20170525_141612

On our last day in St Louis we made another stop by Ted Drewes Frozen Custard for one last treat.

We must say we really really enjoyed our time in St Louis.  We were impressed with all the free attractions and friendly people.  The traffic in and out of the city was not at all bad, even with all the construction around the Arch.  There is still so much we didn’t get to see so we hope to return someday.

Next stop: Hannibal, Missouri to visit Mark Twain

St Louis, MO Part 3 May 24, 2017

On Tuesday we took the RV to get two new front tires which took a good part of the day.  On Wednesday morning we were ready to head out for some more St Louis sightseeing.  Our plan for the day was to visit Forest Park where there were several places we wanted to see.

IMG_20170524_103109Forest Park is one of the largest municipal parks in the United States (larger than Central Park) and covers 1,300 acres.  This park was the site of the 1904 World’s Fair.  First we stopped at the Visitors Center to purchase a $2.00 all day trolley pass that would allow us to hop on and off at various places in Forest Park.IMG_20170524_165938

IMG_20170524_101553We hopped on the trolley and our first stop was at the St Louis History Museum.  A free museum, it was built on the site of the main entrance to the 1904 World’s Fair.  It was originally built as the first national monument to Thomas Jefferson and honors Jefferson’s role in the Louisiana Purchase, preceding the Jefferson Memorial in Washington DC.  IMG_20170524_101857Exhibits feature the history of St Louis from 1764 to the present day.  While we were there they were having a special exhibit on Route 66 called “Route 66: Main Street Through St Louis”.  Route 66 was known as the “Mother Road” and the “Main Street of America”.  We really enjoyed seeing the exhibits on the important role this famous road had in American history.    IMG_20170524_103411IMG_20170524_104326IMG_20170524_104602IMG_20170524_104735IMG_20170524_104829IMG_20170524_105124

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Do you know what these are? (Answer at end of Blog)

They also had a replica of the Spirit of St Louis airplane. This Spirit of St Louis Sister Plane was used in the 1957 Jimmy Stewart movie.IMG_20170524_110201

We rode the trolley to our next stop, the St Louis Science Museum, another free museum and one of only two free science centers in the United States.  Advertised as one of the largest in the country, one of the top five Science Museums in the country and one of the most visited in the world with 700+ permanent galleries as well as a planetarium and OMNIMAX Theater, our expectations were really high and we were somewhat disappointed.

IMG_20170524_115013IMG_20170524_121921 It was a great science center for children but did not have much for adults.  Unfortunately we just missed a King Tut exhibit set to open May 27th.  Our favorite thing was the pedestrian bridge over the interstate connecting the north and south sections of the Center.  The bridge had glass windows in the floor where you could look down and see the vehicles pass underneath you. They also had windows with radar guns so you could clock the speed of the vehicles as they passed by.

also

We took the trolley back to our car and drove a short distance to Pickles Deli, a highly rated deli where Bill got his favorite Reuben sandwich.  On the way out of Forest Park we stopped to take a picture of a Confederate​ statue.  We noticed a news van and some people milling round.  Ironically minutes later on the way to the deli we were listened to the local radio station and heard that this very statue was vandalized the evening before.  Like many other Confederate statues across the country today, discussions are being held about removing this Confederate statue from Forest Park.IMG_20170524_123407IMG_20170524_123335

On the way back to Forest Park we drove by the beautiful Cathedral Basilica of Saint Louis, built between 1907 and 1914.  We didn’t have time to go inside but that is definitely on our list for next time.IMG_20170524_132228

Our final stop of the day was the St Louis Zoo. This zoo is free and is advertised as one of the top zoos in the United States and was voted America’s top free attraction.  This zoo really wowed us and we really enjoyed our time here and was quite impressed.  During our time in St Louis we were really impressed with all the free museums and other places that usually charge an admission in other cities.  Well done, St Louis!IMG_20170524_144333IMG_20170524_144452

The zoo has over 24,000 animals, many of them rare and endangered.

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Golden Lion Tamarin

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We did pay to ride the Emerson Zooline train which is the nation’s largest miniature rail line, providing a 1.5 mile long narrated tour through the 90+ acre park.  The train engines are one third size replicas of the Iron Horse, the historic steam locomotive that helped build the transcontinental railway.  We passed through two tunnels as we traveled around the park.IMG_20170524_140416

We loved seeing all the animals but our favorites were the giraffes, hippos and penguins.  We were amazed at how close we got to the animals and were especially thrilled with the large number of penguins.IMG_20170524_150803IMG_20170524_150756IMG_20170524_163202

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By the time we got back to the car our Garmin pedometers said we had walked over seven miles. What a great day!

Next:. Our last day in St Louis and a camel ride!
Answer: Speakers used at a drive-in theatre.

St Louis, MO Part 2 May 22, 2017

Monday morning we were up and out the door early.  We had purchased tickets online to take the 11:00 elevator/tram to the top of the Gateway Arch.  The drive into the city was surprisingly easy with no traffic backups.  We had scoped out parking the day before so we were able to bypass all the construction around the Arch area and pull right into the parking garage.

IMG_20170521_163536Currently there is a $380 million construction makeover of the Arch area including a new Plaza, museum and visitors center.  We had to go to the Old Courthouse to check in and be sure our online tickets were okay since this is the location of the ticketing center during the construction projects.  The Old Courthouse is a beautiful building constructed in 1828 with renovations from 1839-1862.  Inside are restored courtrooms and exhibits on the Dred Scott slavery trials where Dred and Harriet Scott sued for and were granted their freedom in 1846 and Virginia Minor fought for women’s rights.  A gorgeous cast-iron dome designed after the dome on St Peter’s Basilica in Rome wowed us.  The dome was constructed in 1861 at the same time as the U.S. Capitol building in Washington D.C.PANO_20170522_095858IMG_20170521_163522

IMG_20170522_124555We walked seven blocks from the Old Courthouse to the Gateway Arch, stopping to take pictures at the Old Cathedral, consecrated in 1834.

IMG_20170522_104147The Gateway Arch by law is the tallest structure in St Louis, the tallest man-made monument in the United States, the highest point in downtown St Louis and one of the most recognized landmarks in the country.  It was designed by architect Eero Saarinen and is a monument to President Jefferson and his vision of westward expansion across the continent. Nearly 2.4 million people visit the Gateway Arch each year.  The Arch is part of the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial, a 90 acre park operated by the National Park System and was designated a national historic site in 1935.  It is located on the banks of the Mississippi River, steps from where Lewis and Clark completed their historic journey.20170522_10242620170522_102415IMG_20170522_123622IMG_20170522_102231IMG_20170522_101226IMG_20170522_101836

IMG_20170522_110728After checking in we waited until our designated time to board the “Journey to the Top”.  The ride is composed of barrel shaped tram capsules with five cramped seats in each capsule joining together to form a train like vehicle that runs on tracks inside the hollow legs of the Arch.  The capsules remain level during the ride which takes four minutes up and because of gravity three minutes to come back down. The ride design is a combination of a Ferris wheel and elevator technology that carried us 630 feet to the viewing platform at the top of the Arch.  IMG_20170522_111420IMG_20170522_111450IMG_20170522_111325IMG_20170522_111628IMG_20170522_111805At the top is a room with a series of small windows with great views of St Louis and the Mississippi River.

These exhibits were at the bottom of the Arch.

IMG_20170522_103442IMG_20170522_103542IMG_20170522_103616We finished our visit to the Arch by viewing a movie at the Tucker Theater located at the bottom of the Gateway Arch titled “Monument to the Dream”.  It is an excellent movie detailing the construction of the 630 foot Arch from February, 1963 until its completion on October 28, 1968.  The Arch is made up of stainless steel on the outside, carbon steel on the inside and concrete in the middle.IMG_20170521_165844IMG_20170521_170044IMG_20170522_102445IMG_20170522_122905

We grabbed a quick lunch and visited the “Inside the Economy Museum” located inside the Federal Reserve Bank of St Louis.  This Federal Reserve is one of twelve Reserve banks in the U.S. along with the Board of Governors in Washington, D.C. that make up the country’s central bank.

IMG_20170522_133505IMG_20170522_135948We had to show our driver’s licenses, go through security and get a visitor’s badge.  We had hoped there would be a guided tour of the Economy Museum but it was only a self guided tour with movies and exhibits on Global Economy, The Federal Reserve, Markets, Banking, Inflation, etc.  One neat thing was a video where that showed opening up a vault door then we could see real Federal Reserve workers handling and counting money which had been brought to the Reserve to be shredded.

IMG_20170522_154827We then drove to a neighborhood of St Louis called the Delmar Loop.  This is a vibrant, funky and culturally diverse neighborhood.  An eight foot tall statue of Chuck Berry is dedicated to the Father of Rock and Roll.  Our main reason for coming here was to see the St Louis Walk of Fame, with more than 150 stars dedicated to famous St Louisans and plaques summarizing their achievements and connection to the city.  It is much like the Hollywood Walk of Fame in California. We spent some time walking around looking at the stars.  Some of the famous people included Betty Grable, Tina Turner, Bob Costas, Yogi Berra, Joe Garagiola, John Goodman, Maya Angelou, Phyllis Diller, Vincent Price, Shelley Winters,  Charles Lindbergh, and Tennessee Williams.  20170522_15110520170522_15115920170522_15254520170522_15313820170522_15314220170522_153210Also along the sidewalk was the Delmar Loop Planet Walk which takes you on a three billion mile walk (2,880 feet) from the Sun to Neptune on the scale model of the solar system with informative markers at each planet.20170522_15333720170522_153431

IMG_20170522_162218By this time our Garmin pedometers told us we had walked over five miles so we decided to treat ourselves to custard at the famous “Ted Drewes Frozen Custard” on the way home.  This business has been selling frozen custard since 1929 and its location is on a designated section of historic U. S. Route 66.  IMG_20170522_162730They are known for their “concrete” custard which is so thick that if you turn it upside down it will not fall out of the cup.  I had banana and Bill had chocolate and banana flavor.  Super good!

 “History, by apprising the people of the past, will enable them to judge of the future; it will avail them of the experience of other times and other nations; it will qualify them as judges of the actions and designs of men;” Thomas Jefferson, 1782.

Little Rock & Hot Springs AR May 7, 2017

20170506_114226Leaving Mississippi behind, we crossed the mighty Mississippi River where we could see evidence of the recent flooding. We skirted around Memphis, luckily passing through on a Saturday morning so the traffic was light.  The roads around Memphis were really rough and full of potholes.  Quickly we crossed over into the beautiful state of Arkansas.  We continued to see a lot of flooded farmland as we traveled towards Little Rock, the capital and largest city in the state.  The last time we were in Little Rock in Oct 2013 a government shut down closed the Clinton Presidential Library, so we were looking forward to checking another presidential library off our list.20170506_114205

We arrived at Downtown Riverside RV Park located right in the heart of North Little Rock.  It is little more than a parking lot with hookups, but wow, what a location!  It is located right on the Arkansas River with views of the Clinton Presidential Library in the distance across the river and a view of the Little Rock skyline.IMG_20170507_092842

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Pedestrian bridge looking toward campground from the Presidential Library

A walkway from the RV park led to the Clinton Presidential Park Bridge, which is a pedestrian bridge, so the Library was just a short walk away, no need to even drive your car.  The Park had security and a gated entrance so we felt safe even though we were in the heart of North Little Rock.  At night the bridge was lit up with lights that changed color. IMG_20170508_205345IMG_20170508_205337 Across the Bridge was the Arkansas River Trail, an 88 mile multi-use loop trail perfect for walking or biking.  The Clinton Presidential Park Bridge, dedicated on September 11, 2011, is one of Little Rock’s six bridges and connects pedestrians to Little Rock from North Little Rock.

IMG_20170507_114004On Sunday we decided to make the drive to Hot Springs to visit Hot Springs National Park.   The town of Hot Springs received its name from the rising steam from more than forty boiling springs. Native Americans were drawn to the area during the late 1700s and early 1800s for the healing potions given by the Great Spirit.  People today still come for the therapeutic auras and spas.  It is also the boyhood home of Bill Clinton.

The springs are found along the western slope of Hot Springs Mountain where thermal water, which is naturally sterile, begins as rainwater.  It is absorbed into the mountains and carried 4,000 to 8,000 feet underground where the earth’s extreme heat raises its temperature to 143 F.  The purified water makes its way back to the surface through cracks and pores in the form of hot springs.  The entire process takes around 4,000 years!  The 47 springs have an average daily flow of approximately 750,000 gallons.  The water is collected into one central system where it is distributed to bathhouses and drinking fountains.  Tub baths as well as fancy spa baths are available for a cost.

In 1832, because of the number of people coming to the area for the medicinal benefits, the federal government set aside the springs and surrounding area as the country’s first park-type federal reservation created to protect a natural resource.  In 1921 it became a national park.  The park Visitors Center is located in one of eight bathhouses known as Bathhouse Row.  The popularity​ of the springs began to decline in the 1950s.

IMG_20170507_121136It was definitely the strangest national park Visitors Center we have ever visited.  We parked in a parking garage and walked to the Visitors Center located in the restored Fordyce Bathhouse in the middle of Bathhouse Row.  There we found the usual park rangers, a film, exhibits and a self guided tour of 23 restored rooms furnished as they appeared during the height of the area’s popularity.   Behind the Visitors Center were display springs where we could feel how hot the water was as it emerges from the ground.  We found a couple of geocaches and then wanted to explore more of the natural areas of the park.  We drove to the nearby West Mountain Summit Drive where the car wound around Hot Springs Mountain with some nice views of the town below. A short hike in the park took us to another geocache.IMG_20170507_120202IMG_20170507_112205IMG_20170507_112119IMG_20170507_134002

Sunday morning before heading to Hot Springs I discovered a rash on my thighs that was very itchy.  Bill and I both thought it was bug bites.  During our visit in Hot Springs the rash and itching intensified and at times I felt dizzy and lightheaded.20170508_153446

By Monday morning the rash now covered a larger part of my body, the itching was driving me crazy and I was weak and very dizzy.  Bill took me to a nearby walk in clinic in North Little Rock.  By this time I was so lightheaded I could barely walk from the car to the waiting room.  As I walked to the examining room I briefly passed out and was sick to my stomach.  As the nurse asked me questions I mentioned that eight days earlier I had been bitten by a tick while hiking at Wind Creek State Park in Alabama.  That comment immediately alerted the nurse and doctor who diagnosed my sickness as a tick borne illness.  They gave me a shot at the clinic and i was put on Doxycycline antibiotic, Prednisone and an anti nausea medicine.  It has taken a week of treatment and excellent care from my wonderful husband for me to start feeling better.  The side effects of the Prednisone has been pretty unpleasant as well as the rash. I had no idea a tick bite could make a person so ill.  I have heard this is going to be a particularly bad year for ticks.  Please check yourself after any outdoor activities and check your pets as well!!

Needless to say our sightseeing in Little Rock did not happen as planned.  We drove by places I had hoped to walk around and visit.

IMG_20170509_114917One really beautiful place was The Old Mill at T.R. Pugh Memorial Park a short distance from the campground.  The Old Mill was built in 1933 and is on the National Register of Historic Places.  It was never a real working mill but was built to be a replica of an old water powered grist mill that was in service in Arkansas in the early 1800s as a tribute to Arkansas pioneers.  What caught my attention was it was used in the opening scene of  the 1939 classic film “Gone With the Wind” and is the last standing structure from the film.  The Old Mill was honored on the 50th anniversary of the film and was the site of the unveiling of the Gone With the Wind commemorative stamp.IMG_20170509_115220IMG_20170509_115313IMG_20170509_115602IMG_20170509_115107

It is truly a gorgeous setting.  I made it to the mill bridge while Bill went inside and looked around.

We drove by the state capitol building, something we try to do in all capital cities.  Constructed between 1899 and 1911, I had hoped to see the six doors at the front of the building up close. They are made of four inch thick bronze fashioned by Tiffany of New York .  In the early 20th century they cost $10,000 each.  Today all six would cost 1.5 million.  The capital grounds also include many memorials and monuments.  All that will have to wait for another visit.20170509_13205220170509_132301

IMG_20170509_130822Bill toured the MacArthur Museum of Arkansas Military History.  Located in the historic tower of the Old Arsenal which was built in 1840 as part of a frontier military post, it is the birthplace of General Douglas MacArthur and a National Historic Landmark.  MacArthur was born here while his father was stationed at the arsenal.  It houses exhibits of Arkansas military history from Territorial days to the present as well as exhibits about the Civil War, World War I and World War II.IMG_20170509_121955IMG_20170509_121927

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Bill’s Grandfather Robert Tucker served with the Rainbow Division

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The main reason we came to Little Rock was to see another presidential library, in this case the William J. Clinton Presidential Center and Park.  The original plan was to leave the car at the RV park and walk across the Clinton Presidential Park Bridge with its magnificent river views of Little Rock.  But a tiny little Alabama tick had other plans for me so we drove over instead.  The glass building projects over the Arkansas River representing a “bridge to the 21st century”.  There is 20,000 square feet of exhibition space including the largest collection of presidential archives and artifacts in U.S. history.  Also included are replicas of the Oval Office and Cabinet Room.  There is a penthouse suite above the museum where President Clinton often stays.IMG_20170509_140943

IMG_20170509_151900IMG_20170509_151729We began our visit with a twelve minute film about President Clinton’s life and political career before touring the museum. I sat on a lot of benches but Bill was able to spend time looking at the exhibits.IMG_20170507_161604

We liked Little Rock very much and there is certainly much to see and do there.  It certainly deserves another visit in the future.

Next stop: Bentonville, Arkansas to see my Aunt Shirley!