Category Archives: Historic Landmark

Historic Landmark

Holstein, NE August 21, 2017

About a month or so ago we decided to change our travel route slightly so we could view the total eclipse of the sun Monday.   We settled in at Milford Lake State Park in Kansas for eight days until the big day arrived.  Our plan was to drive an hour and a half into Fairbury, Nebraska to a total eclipse location.  We had chosen a location within driving distance of our campground  and in an area that wasn’t  super crowded so we wouldn’t have to fight huge crowds and traffic jams.  We began to watch the weather forecast several days out and grew concerned as Mother Nature was working against us with cloudy weather predicted.  How potentially disappointing!  We had our solar sunglasses and solar eclipse tee shirts all ready to go.  But it looked like Mother Nature was going to have the last laugh.

On Sunday the forecast indicated mostly cloudy skies and I, ever the pessimist, suggested we just watch it from home.  Bill, ever the optimist, said, “Let’s just give it a try.”

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Let’s Go

Monday morning we awoke to cloudy skies in Milford, but Bill had spent a lot of time looking at weather forecasts in Nebraska and had a plan.  We jumped in the car and headed north and west towards Nebraska.  The further we traveled northwest, the clearer the skies became.  Our hopes would rise with the sun and then be dashed by big clouds obscuring the sun.  But we drove on, singing “please don’t take my sunshine away”.

After three hours of driving, we stopped in tiny Holstein, Nebraska, population 242.20170821_122455  The skies were fairly clear with some clouds, but they did not block our view.  We pulled over on a side street, aptly named “Sundown Rd”, set up our chairs and had a picnic lunch while we watched the progression to total eclipse.  It was amazing and beautiful.  It was hard to get a picture with a camera phone, but Bill did a fantastic job!  And just as the song by Bruce Springsteen suggested, we were “Dancing in the Dark”.20170821_123251

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This was taken with smartphone camera and Eclipse Glasses

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High Clouds Tried to Get In the Way

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More High Clouds

IMG_20170821_125805IMG_20170821_125810IMG_20170821_125818IMG_20170821_125827IMG_20170821_125834IMG_20170821_125841Far, far too soon it was over.  We continued watching the sun reappear for awhile, but it was anticlimactic after the total eclipse.  So we climbed back into the car for the three hour drive back home.  It was totally worth the long drive.  What an experience!  Thank you Bill for your persistence and optimism!!

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We hope you enjoyed Eclipse Day 2017

 

Abilene, KS August 18, 2017

From Topeka we headed west to Milford Lake State Park in Milford, Kansas.  Milford Lake is the largest lake in Kansas made from the 16,000 acre Milford Reservoir, the largest reservoir in Kansas. IMG_20170817_121647 

One day we made the short drive to Abilene to visit the Dwight D. Eisenhower Presidential Library, Museum and Boyhood Home.  

Eisenhower is the 34th President and the only five star general to ever be elected President.IMG_20170817_154143IMG_20170817_154253

Located on a twenty-two acre site, the Eisenhower Presidential Library and Museum is made up of five buildings all within close walking distance.  Within the site:

  • twenty-six million pages of historical records and papers
  • 335,000 still photographs
  • 768,000 feet of original motion picture film
  • 70,000 artifacts

20170817_125937First we stopped by the Visitors Center and saw a twenty-five minute film on his life.  Next we visited his boyhood home.  Even though he was born in Denison, Texas in 1890, he always considered Abilene his hometown since his family moved there when he was a year and a half old.  He was one of seven sons.  All the boys were called “Ike”, an abbreviation of their last  name. By World War II, only Dwight still used the nickname.  

In the parlor of his boyhood home sits the radio the Eisenhower boys bought their mother so she could keep up with the news of the war. 20170817_133545 

The Boyhood Home was opened to the public in 1947.  The Eisenhower family lived here from 1898 until his mother died in 1946.  His parents were deeply religious and belonged to the River Brethren, a Mennonite sect with Dutch Pennsylvania origins.  The family often spent time reading aloud from the Bible.  His mother was a pacifist who was very saddened to learn  Dwight wanted to enter the military.  Growing up on the farm in Abilene his parents taught Ike humility, the value of hard work, respect for learning, discipline and spiritual devotion. Dwight’s mother sometimes had to take history books away from him so he would pay attention to his other subjects in school. IMG_20170817_133238 

His childhood heroes were Hannibal, George Washington and Robert E. Lee.  In 1909 the high school yearbook predicted that Dwight would become a history professor at Yale and his brother Edgar would be President of the United States.  Both his parents attended a small college and four of the sons graduated from college.  Every President since Eisenhower has had a college education.IMG_20170817_144727

Next we visited the museum, dedicated in 1954.  This museum was noticeably different from the previous Presidential museums we have visited.  Ten percent was dedicated to cowboy and pioneer life in old Abilene (Chisholm Trail), fifty-five percent to World War II and his military career and about thirty-five percent to his personal life and Presidency.  It is one of the very few Presidential Library and Museums we have been to without a replica of the Oval Office.20170817_134723a20170817_134756

Abilene was originally founded in 1856 and called Mud Creek, the town was renamed Abilene in 1860 after a Bible passage in the Book of Luke. The American style cowboy boot is believed to have started in Abilene when bootmaker Thomas C. McInerny made a pointed toe boot with a high heel that would stay in the saddle.  It replaced the Confederate Cavalry boot.  McInerny advertised his boots in the late 1860’s, probably making his shop the first to produce the modern cowboy boot in America. At one point McInerny employed fifteen men in his shop.  

Eisenhower enjoyed reading westerns and watching western  TV shows and movies.  He loved receiving western theme gifts.  On display is a pair of cowboy boots specially made for him.  Notice the capitol building on them.  He was a cattleman on his farm in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania where he raised Angus cattle (see our previous post of October 1, 2016).20170817_135101  

Eisenhower accomplishments:

  • Graduate of the United States Military Academy and a professional soldier.  Actually he had wanted to attend the Naval Academy at Annapolis, Maryland but at age twenty was too young to enlist there.  
  • At the Military Academy he was more interested in sports than academics. His final class standing was 61st in grades and 125th in demerits.20170817_135345
  • Served as Commander-in-Chief of Allied Forces in Europe during WWIIIMG_20170817_143723IMG_20170817_14424420170817_143510
  • Military governor of the American zone of occupation in Germany
  • Chief of Staff of the U.S. Army
  • Supreme Commander of NATO

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    Three Display Cases Contained His Metals and Awards

  • President of Columbia University
  • 34th President of the United States.  He was the first Republican president since Herbert Hoover left office in 1933.IMG_20170817_144727  
  • He began his presidential address with a prayer which is mounted on the wall of the chapel where he is buried.IMG_20170817_155518
  • Initiated the country’s first civil rights legislation since post-Civil War Reconstruction
  • Ordered U.S. Army troops to enforce the integration of Central High School in Little Rock, Arkansas, a highly controversial decisionIMG_20170817_152509
  • Construction of the Interstate Highway System which contributed to economic expansion and improved daily lives of AmericansIMG_20170817_151255IMG_20170817_15123520170817_150819
  • His diplomacy kept the “Cold War” cold.  
    • Under Eisenhower’s administration the North Korean and Chinese believed nuclear weapons would be used if necessary.  The two Koreas signed a truce agreement in 1953.  
    • Between 1955 and 1961 the U.S. provided over $1 billion in weapons, financial aid and advisors to the South Vietnamese government, but no military troops.  
    • During the Geneva Summit Eisenhower met with leaders of Great Britain, France and the Soviet Union.  The “Spirit of Geneva” that resulted in the meeting provided hope that a post-Stalin Russia would be less hostile to the United States.  
    • President Eisenhower recognized Castro’s threat in Cuba and approved a covert plan to replace the Castro regime.  His plan continued after he left office.  
  • Created Department of Health, Education and Welfare which Congress had refused under Roosevelt and Truman.  Through HEW, he extended Social Security benefits to previously ineligible retirees.  He pushed vocational rehabilitation to provide assistance to physically disabled people and also increased the minimum wage by 33 percent.
  • Instituted the National Defense Education Act authorizing $1 billion in loans and grants over seven years for college students majoring in science, math or foreign languages.  This was in response to Russia’s launching of Sputnik.
  • Supported nationwide distribution of the polio vaccine and appropriated $28 million to inoculate those who could not afford it.  
  • Convinced Congress to accept a larger public housing program because of a decline in urban cities due to middle class movement to the suburbs, leaving behind mostly poor, black Americans.
  • In response to Sputnik and at Eisenhower’s urging, Congress passed the National Aeronautics and Space Act in July, 1958, creating NASA.20170817_151104
  • Today many people view the technology revolution and breakthrough in satellites, atomic energy and jet airliners to be one of the most lasting accomplishments of the Eisenhower presidency.  He approved the development of reconnaissance aircraft and satellites to provide better technical information about Soviet military efforts.IMG_20170817_151535

Eisenhower suffered a serious heart attack in 1955 but agreed to run for a second term in 1956.  He won re-election against Adlai Stevenson by the largest landslide in history, carrying 41 out of 48 states.  He suffered a stroke in 1957 that left his speech slightly impaired from then on.20170817_135506IMG_20170817_152408IMG_20170817_153106IMG_20170817_152825IMG_20170817_140617

The end of the Eisenhower presidency and the beginning of Kennedy’s signified the end of one era and the beginning of another in many ways.  Eisenhower was the last president born in the nineteenth century, Kennedy the first born in the twentieth.  At that time Eisenhower was the oldest man ever elected president, Kennedy the youngest.  Leaders around the world knew Eisenhower from his leadership roles for over twenty years.  Many foreign heads of state barely knew Kennedy.IMG_20170817_153511

Eisenhower once wrote that he admired above all others three presidents – Washington, Lincoln and Theodore Roosevelt.

Interestingly, a ranking of presidents in 1965 placed Eisenhower well below average.  Over the years as more became known about his presidency, by the year 2000, he was ranked in the top ten. As part of C-SPAN’s third Historians Survey of Presidential Leadership in 2017, almost 100 historians and biographers rated him as fifth best President.IMG_20170817_141948

We finished our visit by stopping by the Place of Meditation, a chapel where President Eisenhower, Mamie and their son Doud are buried.  Doud died at the age of three of scarlet fever.  Eisenhower said his son’s death was “the greatest disappointment and disaster in my life”.IMG_20170817_155024IMG_20170817_155306

Eisenhower passed away in 1969 and was brought home to Abilene where he was buried in a regulation U.S. army casket.

I think you can learn a lot by reading a person’s quotes, or what others say about him.IMG_20170817_151421

Quotes by and about Eisenhower:

  • “The final battle against intolerance is to be fought – not in the chambers of any legislature – but in the hearts of men”. Campaign speech, 1956
  • “Always try to associate yourself closely with and learn as much as you can from those who know more than you, who do better than you, who see more clearly than you.  Apart from the rewards of friendship, the association might pay off at some unforeseen time – that is only an accidental byproduct.  The important thing is that the learning will make you a better person”.
  • “Desire may sometimes have to give way to a conviction of duty”.  (Eisenhower was reluctant to run for president, calling the idea absurd.  In 1945 President Truman told Eisenhower he would support him for President in 1948, even joking he would agree to be Vice-President.  In 1952 when leading Republican candidate Senator Robert A. Taft refused to support the United States providing troops to NATO, Eisenhower agreed to run.  By 1952, an estimated eighteen million American homes owned a television set, making it the first televised campaign.IMG_20170817_152703IMG_20170817_145730
  • “God help the nation when it has a President who doesn’t know as much about the military as I do.”
  • “Ike could be reelected even if dead.”   columnist Walter Lippmann on Eisenhower’s possible third term as president even though he was constitutionally prevented from running for a third term.  Eisenhower had an average approval rating of 64%.
  • “My principal political disappointment was the defeat of Dick Nixon in 1960.”
  • “There is no victory in any war, except through our imagination, through our dedication, and through our work to avoid it.”
  • “One of my major regrets is that as we left the White House I had to admit to little success in making progress in global disarmament or in reducing the bitterness of the East-West struggle.  But though, in this, I suffered my greatest disappointment, it has not destroyed my faith that in the next generation, the next century, the next millennium, these things will come to pass.”
  • “If all that Americans want is security, they can go to prison.”
  • “I wish to say a word directly to our young people.  It will soon be your country to run, and you should be interested and personally involved.”
  • “America will be a lonely land without him.  But America will always be a better nation – stronger, safer, more conscious of its heritage, more certain of its destiny – because Ike was with us when America needed him.” Lyndon Baines Johnson
  • “He was a general who truly hated war, but who hated the Nazis more.  He was the President who made a peace and kept the peace and this provided the conditions that made it possible for the American people to exercise their rights to pursue happiness.” Stephen E. Ambrose

Topeka, KS August 12, 2017

Our time in Independence, Missouri was over and we made the short trip over the border into Kansas, a new state for us.  We were excited about our plans to explore Kansas over the next several weeks.20170811_111743

First stop was at Rock Creek State Recreation Area in Perry, just outside of Topeka.  We had a lovely view of Perry Lake.  Bill has really reserved some campsites with wonderful views!20170813_133029

Topeka is the capital of Kansas, so on Saturday we headed into Topeka to tour the Capitol building.IMG_20170812_095326

The Capitol was built between 1866 and 1903 and is designed after the U.S. Capitol.  On top of the dome is a 4,420 pound, 22 foot high sculpture of a Kansa Indian.  It is named “Ad Astra” after the state motto “ad astra per aspera” meaning “to the stars through adversity”.  The arrow in his hand is pointing to the North Star. IMG_20170812_09563320170812_111748a 

Kansas was named for the Kansa Indians, a Siouan tribe in the region.  The French explorers were the first to write down the name Kansa.  One French explorer wrote Kansas on a map and soon everyone was calling it Kansas.20170812_104615

We don’t usually take guided tours of Capitol buildings because we prefer to take our time and wander around looking at exhibits and taking pictures.  But since a tour was about to begin when we arrived, we decided to go along.  IMG_20170812_101513

The building has beautiful murals and statues to famous Kansas people including Dwight Eisenhower, Amelia Earhart and Charles Curtis, the first Native American Vice-President of the United States.

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Dwight David Eisenhower 1890 – 1969 Soldier – US President

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Amelia Mary Earhart 1897 – 1937 (?) Aviation Pioneer

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The murals depicted pioneer life with one mural of abolitionist, John Brown.  Notice the tornado in the distance. IMG_20170812_102606IMG_20170812_11162920170812_10312520170812_101423 

The flags in the Rotunda represent  all the nations that have  claimed all or portions of Kansas: United Kingdom, French Monarchy, the French Republic, Mexico, Spain, Texas, United States and Kansas.  Representative Hall featured marble, gold leaf, and pink columns made  from faux marble. 20170812_101505 

The  Senate chamber featured several types of marble, original native Kansas wild cherry wood desks and hand cast columns with ornate circular grills that helps with air circulation.

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Senate Gallery

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House Gallery

We rode the cage elevator, installed in 1923 which requires an elevator operator.IMG_20170812_105522  20170812_110455aIMG_20170812_110645

In 2014, a thirteen year, $330 million dollar renovation was completed.

After touring the Capitol we drove to the nearby Brown v Brown Board of Education National Historic Site.  IMG_20170812_114309It is the only national park named for a U.S. Supreme Court case.  It is located in the former Monroe School, at one time one of four schools for black children in Topeka.  In 1949 parents of six students who attended the school participated in the Brown v. Board of Education lawsuit. IMG_20170812_114346 

On May 17, 1954, the U.S. Supreme Court ruled that “in the field of public education, separate educational facilities are inherently unequal”.  Inside the school today is a museum to the Civil Rights Movement, especially in the field of public education.20170812_123739a

  • Kansas became a state in 1861, the 34th state.
  • President Eisenhower signed the Federal Aid Highway Act in 1956 which began the effort to build a nationwide system of highways.   Today the national system is called the Dwight D. Eisenhower National System of Interstate and Defense Highways and stretches over 46,000 miles across the country.  Kansas was the first state in the country to open an Interstate highway with a portion of Interstate 70 passing through  Topeka.
  • Some early travelers crossed the Kansas plains in wind wagons–wagons outfitted with sails.  It is said they traveled up to forty mph as the wind blew over the plains.
  • The state bird is the western meadowlark.  It is also the state bird of Montana, Nebraska, North Dakota, Oregon and Wyoming!
  • Kansas is part of “Tornado Alley”, an area of the country hit by more tornadoes than any other place in the world, along with Missouri, Nebraska, Oklahoma and Texas.  Kansas doesn’t lead in states with the total number of tornadoes, but it has the record for the highest number of F-5 intensity (most intense) tornadoes since 1880.
  • Kansas state flower is the wild native sunflower.  The sunflower image is on their state road signs.  They flower from July to September and can be up to ten feet tall.IMG_20170812_100143
  • Kansas state tree is the cottonwood.
  • Topeka was established in 1854 by a group of antislavery settlers, seven years before statehood was granted in 1861.  It had one of the most complex Underground Railroad networks in the country, with as many as 23 stops.
  • Payless Shoes was started in Topeka in 1956.  Mars, Inc came to Topeka in 2015 and now produces Peanut M&M’s and Snickers at its Topeka plant.  If you see TOP on the wrapper, it was made in Topeka!

Next stop: Milford, Kansas

Kansas City, MO August 9, 2017

While we were staying near Independence we drove one day into Kansas City to visit The National WWI Museum and Memorial, the world’s most comprehensive WWI collection.  The museum was amazing!

On the top of the Memorial are two Assyrian Sphinxes.  One, named Memory, faces east toward the battlefields of France, shielding its eyes from the horrors of war.  The other Sphinx is named Future and faces west, shielding its eyes from an unknown future.  Around the top of the Tower are carved Guardian Spirits of Honor, Courage, Patriotism and Sacrifice. We began our visit by taking an elevator to the top of Liberty Memorial, a 217 foot tower completed in 1926 with views of Kansas City. IMG_20170809_131238IMG_20170809_133103IMG_20170809_163018 

Sixty-five million people served in the Great War (later referred to as World War One), nine million died and the war involved over thirty-six countries around the world.

On the outside wall of the museum is the Great Frieze, one of the largest sculptures of its kind in the world.  Dedicated in 1935, it is 148 feet by 18 feet and represents the progression of humankind from war to peace.IMG_20170809_162519

The current museum was expanded in 2006 and designated a National Historic Landmark.  To enter the museum you walk on a glass bridge over a symbolic red poppy field, a symbol of the war because they grew profusely on the European fields of war. 

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These 9,000 Poppies Each Represent 1,000 Soldier Lost

Inside are two main galleries, 1914-1917 and 1917-1919.  The amount of information presented through pictures and exhibits was overwhelming.  Each year 500,000 people visit this museum.

One of the best known symbols of WWI was trench warfare.  Both sides dug deep trenches and by the end of 1914 there was a network of over 400 miles of trenches across Belgium and France.  By 1917 there were 35,000 miles of trenches across the Western Front.  Poet John Masefield who served in the British Army called it “the long grave already dug”. Replicas of trenches were located throughout the museum.20170809_145112IMG_20170809_14473520170809_14531520170809_150452IMG_20170809_144709IMG_20170809_145330IMG_20170809_15490220170809_14491120170809_15062020170809_150925

President Woodrow Wilson signed the declaration of war against Germany on April 6, 1917.  Millions were inducted, given basic combat training and by June 1917, U.S. troops had arrived in France.  The army was small and poorly equipped with uniforms the same as those used in 1898 during the Spanish-American War.  Equipment was scarce so in some cases they had to train with wooden guns and rifles.  For many, it was their first time in the military.20170809_15075720170809_153159

Americans across the country answered the call to help by rationing food, buying war bonds or stamps, worked longer hours and enlisted.  Industries switched to producing weapons, ammunition and uniforms.  The American Red Cross auctioned wool from sheep grazing on the White House Lawn, raising $100,000.  The wool was used by Americans to knit socks and sweaters for the troops.  Within a year, America had a military force of four million men and women.20170809_15281220170809_15282120170809_15290020170809_15330420170809_154944IMG_20170809_155638IMG_20170809_155702

Bill’s Grandfather Robert Tucker was a dispatcher motorcycle rider on a motorcycle like this for General MacArthur, 42nd Division, Rainbow Division.

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20,000 1917 Harley-Davidson Motorcycles were sent Over There!

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By November 11, 1918 fighting ended on the Western Front and Germany signed an armistice and began to withdraw its forces.  The Treaty of Versailles to end the war was drafted in January by the leaders of the United States, England and France.  In June, Germany signed it but protested the harsh conditions. 20170809_155937 

At the end of the year the U.S. Congress rejected both the Treaty and the recently formed League of Nations.  The United States later signed its own treaty with Germany and never joined the League of Nations.  The League of Nations was replaced 26 years later after World War II by the United Nations.

What else happened during WWI:

  • Herbert Hoover announced the United States sent $1.4 billion worth of food to the Allies in 1917.
  • Wartime Prohibition began with the Food Production Bill, making the U.S. completely “dry” until demobilization was completed.
  • President Woodrow Wilson signed the Selective Service Act which required all men between the ages of 21 to 30 to register for the draft.  It was later extended to men 18 to 45.  On the first day, over 9.2 million men registered at their local draft boards.  Only 252,294 men failed to report.
  • June 1917, Congress enacts the Espionage Act allowing the government to censor mail and making it a crime to aid enemy nations or interfere with the draft.  On July 20th, the first American draftees are chosen by lottery.
  • U.S. Post Office began airmail service and issued the first airmail stamps.
  • “Over There”, a patriotic song written by George M. Cohan was recorded by Enrico Caruso.
  • The first Choctaw Code Talkers, in which Indian languages was used as a substitute for code, occurred during WWI.  They translated field telephone calls, radio messages and field orders.  The code was never broken by the German intelligence.  This led to a greater use of Navajo and other languages as codes by U.S. forces in WWII.
  • March 31, 1918 U.S. begins daylight savings time by Congressional Act to save daylight.
  • The American Legion was formed in 1919 as well as the Women’s Overseas Service League was formed to aid returning WWI veterans.  Congress authorized disability compensation and vocational rehabilitation.
  • “I am back from the front and believe me!!…I have just come out of one of the worst battles and the most deciding battle of the war.  The American soldiers are the most gallant, brave, witty and stubborn fighters in the world”. Corporal John Lewis Barkley, 4th Infantry, 3rd Division in a letter home, November, 1918

IMG_20170809_171117After touring the museum we were famished and made the short drive to Kansas City, Kansas to have dinner at Joe’s Kansas City Barbecue. Bill had ribs and I had beef brisket.  Both really, really good.  Located in a gas station, the long line attested to their reputation.  A newspaper clipping on the wall named them one of the thirteen best places to eat before you die (see #13).IMG_20170809_173531

Kansas City Missouri Facts:

  • Population 460,000
  • Has more than 200 fountains, giving it the nickname “The City of Fountains”; more fountains are here than almost anywhere else except Rome.  In the 1800’s the fountains were used as water troughs for horses.
  • Locals say Kansas City has more barbecue restaurants per capita than any city in the country, earning it another nickname, “Barbecue Capital of the World”.
  • During the 1800’s Kansas City was the last stop for travelers to get provisions as they headed west.
  • During the 1920’s and 1930’s, Kansas City was known as “The Paris of the Plains” because of the many jazz clubs, gambling halls and disregard of Prohibition.
  • Across from the museum was Union Station, built in 1914 and formerly a train station but now a science museum.  We read that more than 79,000 trains passed through the terminal in 1917 and half of all GIs deployed during World War Two passed through this Union Station.IMG_20170809_164252

Next stop: Topeka, Kansas

Independence, MO August 7, 2017

Sunday we left Papillion Nebraska and headed towards Independence, Missouri.  It was a longer travel day than usual for us, but the miles passed quickly.  We passed over the Missouri River and as we passed through Kansas City we caught a glimpse of Kauffman Stadium where the 2015 World Series Champion Kansas City Royals were playing a home game.20170806_10104420170806_133850

We arrived at our campsite at Blue Springs Lake Campground just outside Independence.

20170807_151330Our main reason for coming to northwestern Missouri was to tour the Truman Presidential Library and Museum in Independence, population 117,000.  This was the first presidential library to be created under the provisions of the 1955 Presidential Libraries Act.  The Presidential Library and Museum was dedicated on July 6, 1957 and Truman actively participated in the day to day operations of the library.  In the lobby is a beautiful mural entitled “Independence and the Opening of the West”.  We began our visit with a video detailing Truman’s life from birth to the beginning of his presidency in 1945.IMG_20170807_134230

Harry Truman, our 33rd President, (1945-1953) was a very simple, common man.  In no way do I mean that in a negative way.  He was a man with humble beginnings on a farm in Missouri.  He did not attend college because his family could not afford it.  He worked in Clinton’s Drug Store at the age of 14, before and after school and all day on weekends, making $3.00 a week.  He was never comfortable with the pomp and circumstance of life in the White House and never warmed to being served his meals by butlers and servants.  After his presidency ended he spent time at his presidential library personally training docents, talking with school groups, answering phones giving directions and answering questions.  

Truman was convinced the White House was haunted.  He didn’t realize it was the White House about to fall down around him!  20170807_14333820170807_143511

We found Truman’s reflections on life in the White House and his thoughts on previous Presidents in letters to his wife and daughter fascinating.  I know these are not easy to read because they didn’t photo well, but I hope you can make them out.20170807_143431(1)20170807_14343120170807_14300320170807_143112

Truman’s political career began as a county administrator.  He once said his years in the Senate were the ten happiest years of his life.  In the Senate he found a brotherhood unlike any other he had ever experienced.

Truman was chosen as Roosevelt’s running mate as a “Missouri Compromise”. Democratic party leaders knew Roosevelt would most likely not survive another term.  They distrusted the current Vice President, Henry Wallace, and Truman was seen as a moderate border state Senator, acceptable to both liberal and conservative Democrats.  At first Truman did not want the job of Vice President.  During the Democratic National Convention, Roosevelt told Truman if he refused the nomination he would be responsible for breaking up the Democratic Party in the middle of the war.  Truman felt the call to duty and accepted.

On April 12, 1945 Truman was summoned to the White House where Eleanor Roosevelt told him the President was dead.  He had only been Vice-President for 82 days.  When he asked Mrs. Roosevelt if there was anything he could do for her, her response was, “Is there anything we can do for you?  For you are the one in trouble now”.  

He was sworn in as the 33rd President later that evening.  The next morning Truman asked reporters to pray for him and said “it felt like the moon, the stars, and all the planets had fallen on me”.20170807_152335

Truman took over as President with a country at war.  Few presidential acts have been met with as much controversy as his decision to use atomic weapons against Japan.  Even though seventy years has passed, the debate continues.20170807_152536IMG_20170807_152705

After the war ended Truman had his hands full with the challenges of shortages, inflation and labor unrest.  The worst shortage was in housing as soldiers came home, married and started families.  During the war little permanent housing had been built because building materials were needed for defense production.  Truman tried to remedy the situation with public housing and federally subsidized homes but his plans were derailed by Congress who felt the marketplace would fix itself.  The shortage persisted.20170807_152942

Here is his Oval Office with TV and back then the reporters were briefed in the Oval Office.IMG_20170807_151840IMG_20170807_152007

During the war, wage and price controls had kept inflation under control but once the war ended, restrictions eased and unions began striking for higher pay.  By February 1946, over two million workers had gone on strike, many in key industries like steel, mining, railroads and automobiles.  Truman ordered government takeover of the mines, railroads and threatened to draft railroad workers into the army.  These steps damaged his relationships with labor unions.

After price and wage controls were lifted after the war, there was a massive rise in inflation. During the second half of 1946, consumer prices rose at an annual rate of 30% and wholesale prices rose 50%, especially in food like meat.  The double digit inflation continued into 1947 and Truman’s popularity plummeted with some wondering if he was up to the job of President.  

But as the economy adjusted to peacetime, production continued to increase which generated large investments in manufacturing along with government spending for military and domestic projects.  The United States was now the world’s economic powerhouse with 7% of the earth’s population which produced half of the world’s manufacturing output.  Per capita income was 50% higher than any other country and unemployment barely averaged 4%.  Americans were now consuming and earning more than ever and the GI Bill provided healthcare, Education Grant’s, as well as home and business loans for veterans.

In 1948, the state of Israel was announced and Truman immediately recognized the new nation, the first country to do so and against the advice of Secretary of State George C. Marshall.  Marshall and others felt the new nation had little chance of survival and it would anger oil producing Arab countries.  Truman felt deeply about the horrors of the Holocaust and the plight of displaced European Jews, but he also knew it would provide Jewish support in the upcoming 1948 presidential election.

He ran for President in 1948, crisscrossing the country in the Ferdinand Magellan, the Presidential railroad car (we have pictures of the car in our Miami blog).  20170807_154741He was the first president to fly on a regular basis. With economic difficulties and low popularity, some questioned his electability.  He lost the support of Southern Democrats with his support of civil rights while others in the party attacked his policy on the Soviet Union.  The Republican Congress had rejected almost all his domestic reform policies.  Many felt he would not even win the Democratic nomination.  The Democratic Party was split.20170807_154659

Who can forget the famous incorrect newspaper headline the day after Election Day?20170807_15480520170807_154849

The Presidential Museum had interesting exhibits on the beginning of the Cold War which dominated his second term, overshadowing his domestic agenda of national health insurance, housing, civil rights and federal  education.  Little of what he called the “Fair Deal” was made law.20170807_155006

Truman’s foreign plan was to abandon isolationism and contain the Soviet Union through economic and military action. This led to the Truman Doctrine in 1947 and in 1948 the Marshall Plan.20170807_15413820170807_154227

From 1793 to 1949, America made no military treaties with European nations but Truman changed that with the formation of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO).  America joined Canada and ten European nations in a treaty of mutual defense to defend Europe from Soviet attack with the agreement that an attack on one is an attack on all.

In June, 1950 North Korea invaded South Korea and Truman sent troops to South Korea.  By 1951 some wanted Truman to bomb China and end the war.  Truman feared this would lead to worldwide nuclear war.  General Douglas MacArthur favored the bombing saying “there is no substitute for victory”.  Truman, favoring a “limited war” and fired MacArthur citing the constitutional precedent that civilians, not generals, control the nation’s military policy.  The firing was the most unpopular decision he ever made. His failure to end the war quickly led to further unpopularity at home.20170807_155218  

On display was a Purple Heart and the letter from the father of a  serviceman killed in Korea. The letter said since Truman was responsible for his son’s death, he might as well have his Purple Heart too.  As the war dragged  on his popularity  continued to  plummet and by the time he left office his popularity was below 30%.20170807_155946

IMG_20170807_161137Truman expanded presidential power by reorganizing the executive branch and creating new agencies responsible to the President, including the Department of Defense, Atomic Energy Commission, Council of Economic Advisers and the National Security Council.  He set a precedent for future presidents actions when he waged war in Korea without congressional declaration.

President Truman integrated the armed services and federal civil service and worked to end discrimination in voting, education, jobs and housing.  Even though Congress blocked most of his proposals, they led the way for future civil rights leaders.

He did not seek a third term in office, saying he had had enough of Washington and preferred his life back home in Missouri.  He had compared the White House to a big white prison on occasion.

Also on the grounds of the library are the gravesites of Harry and Bess as well as their daughter Margaret and her husband.IMG_20170807_161518IMG_20170807_161531  

There is also Truman’s office he used daily after his Presidency from 1957 to 1966.IMG_20170807_161818

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NOV 18, 1961 President JF kennedy, Vice President LB Johnson, President Eisenhower & President HS Truman at Sam Rayburn’s funeral

IMG_20170807_161751We stayed over three hours at the Presidential Library and Museum.  The Museum was well done and informative.  We learned though Truman was a simple man, he served as President during a very complex time in American history.

After touring the library we made the short drive to the Truman home where they lived from the time of their marriage in 1919 until his death in 1972. Truman loved to walk and the city of Independence uses his silhouette.IMG_20170807_150659IMG_20170807_163051IMG_20170807_163031

 Bess Truman continued to live there until she passed away in 1982 at the age of 97.  Their daughter Margaret was born in the house in 1924.  The house originally belonged to Bess Truman’s maternal grandfather and is where Bess and her family moved to in 1909.  When Harry and Bess married they lived there with her mother.  It served as the Summer White House during his Presidency.  His Winter White House was in Key West, Florida (we have pictures of it in our Key West blog).  Upon her death Bess Truman left the home in Independence to the United States to preserve the legacy of her husband and his presidency.

Truman Trivia:

  • Truman was born on May 8, 1884 in Lamar, Missouri.  The “S” in his name is only an initial to honor his grandfathers.
  • The family moved to Independence when he was six and he always considered Independence his home town.
  • As a child he dreamed of being a concert pianist and loved reading, especially history. By the time he was 14 years old he has read all the books in the Independence Public Library.IMG_20170807_161912
  • Truman’s jobs included a bank clerk in Kansas City in 1903 as well as working on the family farm from 1906 to 1917.  He wanted to attend college but after his father lost the family savings in risky investments he went to work as a bank clerk.  He gave up that job to work on the 600 acre family farm because his family needed him.  He worked twelve hour days planting crops and tending the farm animals.  
  • When his father died in 1914 he assumed responsibility of the farm.  He left the farm in 1917 to enlist in World War I.  He said his time on the farm taught him the value of hard work and common sense.IMG_20170807_144554

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    The only known picture without his glasses

  • Harry married Bess Wallace on June 28, 1919 after he returned from World War I.  They both loved to write love letters to each other, especially on their anniversary.  There are more than 1300 handwritten letters from Harry to Bess in at the Presidential Library and Museum with a few on display.IMG_20170807_140954
  • He and a friend opened a haberdashery store in Kansas City in 1919 after he returned from World War I but it went bankrupt.  While he struggled to make a living with other jobs, he found success in the military. He started with the rank of Private in the National Guard of Missouri and left military service 37 years later as a Colonel in the U.S. Army Officers’ Reserve Corp.
  • As Vice President Truman was the “forgotten man of the Roosevelt Administration.  After the inauguration he only met with President Roosevelt twice.  He presided over the Senate and once said, “I am trying to make a job out of the vice presidency and it’s quite a chore”.IMG_20170807_145758
  • Truman and his family lived in Blair House for four years while the White House was being renovated. It is amazing to see how they gutted and rebuilt the White House from the inside.IMG_20170807_142411IMG_20170807_142708IMG_20170807_142523
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    Bulldozer inside the White House

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  • An assassination attempt was made on his life in 1950 while living at Blair House.
  • “Our Goal Must Be – Not Peace In Our Time – But Peace For All Time”. Harry Truman at Independence Day address delivered at Monticello, Virginia July 4, 1947.
  • “There can be no greater service to mankind, and no nobler mission, than devotion to world Peace.” Harry S. TrumanIMG_20170807_161614

Lincoln, NE August 1, 2017

From Papillion outside of Omaha we made the short trip to Lincoln, the state capital.  We had a reservation at Branched Oak State Recreation Area with a great full hook up site overlooking the lake.  Branched Oak Lake is the largest of ten Salt Creek flood control projects built by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to protect the city of Lincoln and surrounding communities.  The Branched Oak Lake Recreation Area is made up of an 1,800 acre lake and 3,960 acres of land.20170804_125954We stayed at Branched Oak for a week and spent much of the week relaxing and enjoying the lake views.

On Tuesday we drove into Lincoln to tour the state capitol building, named one of the Seven Modern Architectural Wonders of the World by the American Institute of Architects.  We did not find the building as visually appealing both inside or out as most of the other state capitol building we have visited.  The inside was very dark.  We rode an elevator to the 14th floor to the observation deck for a view of the city of Lincoln. IMG_20170801_104945IMG_20170801_105319 IMG_20170801_110952

The Capitol was built between 1922-32, the state’s third capitol building.  There is a 400 foot tower visible for miles.  It is said to be the first capitol building designed for function rather than as a memorial, and the first to deviate from the design of the U.S. Capitol. On top is “The Sower”, a bronze sculpture of a barefoot man casting grain seeds.IMG_20170801_110402IMG_20170801_111428IMG_20170801_11104620170801_111430IMG_20170801_110618IMG_20170801_111128IMG_20170801_111236IMG_20170801_111350

Remember I told you each state capital city has a replica of the Liberty Bell?  We found Lincoln’s in Antelope Park.IMG_20170801_145624

The University of Nebraska was founded in 1869.  We rode by Memorial Stadium, home of the Nebraska Cornhusker.  It was built in 1923 and was named in honor of Nebraskans who have sacrificed their lives in military service to the country.  It seats 90,000 and the stadium is said to be the third largest city in Nebraska on game days.  Every home day has been sold out since 1962.  Across the four corners of the stadium are words written by former Nebraska professor of philosophy Harley Burr Alexander.  My favorite is on the southwest front of the stadium:.  “Not the Victory But the Action, Not the Goal But the Game, In the Deed The Glory”.  I also like his words on the northwest corner:  “Courage; Generosity; Fairness; Honor; In these are the true awards of manly sport”.20170801_115002

IMG_20170801_151539We were looking for a geocache to do in Lincoln and noticed one located in a cemetery.  It said it was located at the grave of a famous actor/singer.  To get credit for the cache we had to name the person and the inscription on the tombstone.  We were intrigued so we set out to find it.  The grave belonged to Gordon MacRae.  He was best known for the movies “Oklahoma” and “Carousel”.  The inscription, by President Ronald Reagan, was “Gordon will always be remembered wherever beautiful music is heard”.

On Thursday we did drive an hour south to the 211 acre Homestead National Historic Monument of America located in the Tallgrass Prairie.  IMG_20170803_113129In 1862 President Abraham Lincoln signed the Homestead Act which granted 160 acres of land to anyone over 21 and head of a household who agreed to live on the land for at least five years, build a home and cultivate crops. It was part of Lincoln’s plan to modernize the west and end slavery. This prompted thousands of settlers to migrate west to the Nebraska Territory.  President Thomas Jefferson had proposed something similar in the early 1780’s.  Many in the industrial North hoped the Homestead Act would lure excess workers from crowded cities.  Eventually the Homesteaders created a vast market for agricultural equipment which helped factories in the east.  20170803_12312220170803_133059IMG_20170803_132912

One interesting example was barbed wire, invented by Michael Kelly in 1868 and Joseph Glidden in 1874.  Used by Homesteaders to fence off their property and keep off free ranging cattle that trampled crops, the barbed wire was mass produced in factories.  

This free land opportunity appealed to immigrants eligible to become citizens, former slaves who became eligible after the 13th Amendment abolished slavery and the 14th Amendment guaranteed equal treatment, Civil War veterans and women.  Foreign language advertisements distributed in Eastern Europe where famine in the 1870’s had destroyed crops and caused famine, promoted the idea of America, the Land of Plenty and the American Dream.  In the first half of 1862 twenty-five thousand Europeans, mostly Germans crossed the Atlantic.  By 1870 one fourth of the population of Nebraska was foreign born.  By the turn of the century, over two million Anglo-Americans, Italians, Danes, Swedes, Finlanders, Hollanders, Hungarians, Icelanders, Russians, Poles and Ukrarians had relocated to the Great Plains.  

But along with this Land of Plenty they were often unprepared to face extreme drought, prairie fires, hailstorms, tornadoes, grasshopper plagues and crushing loneliness.  270,000,000 acres of land in thirty states or 10% of U.S. controlled land was distributed to homesteaders. Surveyors, relying on the 1785 Land Ordinance Act, laid out 36 square mile townships.  This townships were then split into 640 acre (one square mile) sections.  These sections were  then subdivided into four 160 acre homesteads.  

160 acres was thought to be the ideal size for a family farm.  By 1900, 95% of Indian land had been lost to homesteading and other land politics. The Native Americans were forced from their ancestral homes and relocated to reservations, usually on the least desirable lands. A lot of the land was taken from the native American Indians. 20170803_13221920170803_13215620170803_132634IMG_20170803_132804

In 1976 the U.S. Congress repealed the Homestead Act.  According to a sign at the Heritage Center, there are more than 93,000,000 descendants of homesteaders today.

Along the sidewalk leading inside to the Heritage Center were outlines of each state included in the Homestead Act.  The square cut out in each state represented the amount of state land given in the Homestead Act.  20170803_11363720170803_113649

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Florida Homestead about 1876

We visited the wonderful Heritage Center with a movie and many exhibits on the Western Expansion and pioneer life.  The monument is located on the site of the Daniel Freeman homestead.  Daniel Freeman was the first to apply for the free land on January 1,1863, giving him Patent #1.  His grave, along with his wife and family is located on the monument property.IMG_20170803_134654IMG_20170803_134601IMG_20170803_135226

In the Heritage Center they have computers where you can research family whose state was part of the Homestead Act.  Since Bill has relatives from Alabama, a Homestead state, he spent some time researching the park system’s sites.20170803_115748IMG_20170803_120041IMG_20170803_135649

Nearby is the Freeman School, the longest running one room schoolhouse in Nebraska.IMG_20170803_141447

On the way home we stopped in the tiny town of Malcolm, population 472, at Lippy’s BBQ.  It was the best brisket I had ever eaten.  So good that since it was only three miles from the campground we drove back the day before we left and bought pulled pork and more beef brisket to take with us to Missouri.

Next stop: Independence, Missouri

Lincoln Facts:

  • Lincoln was named one of Lonely Planet’s Top Ten Places to Travel in the U.S. for 2017 (Lonely Planet is the largest travel guide book published worldwide.)
  • Lincoln’s average yearly temperature is 63.1 with a January temperature of 35 and July average of 89.  Annual precipitation is 28.9 inches and annual snowfall of 26 inches.
  • Lincoln has over 6,000 acres of parks and natural land, 125 parks and 131 miles of trails.
  • Lincoln has a population of over 250,000, smaller than Omaha.

More Nebraska Facts:

  • Nebraska is the nation’s 16th largest state.
  • Famous Nebraskans include Fred Astaire, Marlon Brando, Warren Buffet, Gerald Ford, and Henry Fonda.

Papillion, NE July 26, 2017

Under rainy skies we left Iowa and entered Nebraska.  We prefer to not travel in the rain but the area really needed it.  We reached our campsite at Walnut Creek Lake Recreation Area in the city of Papillion outside of Omaha and set up before the really heavy rain began to fall.  It would be the last rain we would see for awhile.  It was very hot in Iowa and the heat continued in Nebraska.  Papillion was named by French settlers after its beautiful butterflies.  Walnut Creek Lake Recreation Area is located on a 150 acre reservoir.  They do not accept reservations so we were very glad to find an available spot with a view of the water.

On Thursday we made the short drive into Omaha, population 450,000.  Our first stop was the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail – Headquarters located inside the National Park Service’s Midwest Regional Office.  

Nearby was the Bob Kerrey Pedestrian Bridge, completed in 2008 and spanning the Missouri River which Lewis, Clark and the Corps of Discovery navigated over 200 years ago.  The neat thing about this bridge is that it is the longest pedestrian bridge to link two states.IMG_20170727_105411IMG_20170727_110242

When walking across the bridge we started in Nebraska and crossed into Iowa about midway.  The 3,000 foot cable stay bridge connects Omaha, Nebraska and Council Bluffs, Iowa.  Cables suspend the bridge sixty feet above the river and the curved shape symbolizes the meandering Missouri River.IMG_20170727_110147IMG_20170727_110329

Next we drove downtown to the Pioneer Courage Park with amazing bronze and stainless steel sculptures depicting pioneer families and westward expansion.IMG_20170727_115022IMG_20170727_115218IMG_20170727_115408IMG_20170727_115521IMG_20170727_115910

Omaha is the home of the College World Series so we drove by TD Ameritrade Park. My hometown University of Virginia baseball team won the World Series here in 2015.IMG_20170727_113122IMG_20170727_113638

Nearby we visited the President Gerald R. Ford Birthsite and Gardens.  The house burned to the ground so there is now a nice portico that resembles the West Wing and a rose garden dedicated to Betty Ford.  The 38th President was born as Leslie King, Jr.  He moved with his mother to Grand Rapids, Michigan.  He was adopted by his stepfather and took the name Gerald R. Ford.IMG_20170727_121644IMG_20170727_122223

Omaha is also the home of Warren Buffet.  We rode by his home and office building.  His home is surprisingly small for such a wealthy man. IMG_20170727_131626IMG_20170727_131941 

IMG_20170727_134609Of course we had to shop at the Nebraska Furniture Mart, the largest home furnishing store in North America.  It has 420,000 square feet of retail space spread over 77 acres and several buildings. It was founded in 1937 by Mrs. B who sold a majority interest in the company to Warren Buffet in a handshake deal in 1983.  Now you are probably wondering why people who live in an RV would take the time to visit a furniture mart.  Besides furniture they also have flooring, appliances and electronics.  They also have locations in Iowa, Kansas and Texas.  One noticeable thing to us was how quick and helpful the employees were. If you stopped to look at the store map or looked the least bit confused, someone was right there to help you with a friendly smile and cheerful demeanor.

Next we toured the Mormon Trail Center at Historic Winter Quarters which is the location of the Mormons’ main settlement on the Missouri River.  Historical exhibits memoralized the hardships the pioneers faced, especially during the winter of 1846-47.IMG_20170727_143633IMG_20170727_150009

We finished the day at Kenefick Park where we saw “two of the greatest locomotives ever to power Union Pacific Railroad”: the Union Pacific Big Boy #4023 and the Union Pacific Centennial #6900.  We climbed sixty steps from the parking lot to where the locomotives sit high on a hilltop visible from the interstate.IMG_20170727_155542IMG_20170727_155606IMG_20170727_155243IMG_20170727_160256IMG_20170727_160458IMG_20170727_160542

IMG_20170728_142555On Friday we visited the Strategic Air Command (SAC) and Aerospace Museum in nearby Ashland.  It has the largest collection of Cold War aircraft including exhibits of spy planes, fighter jets including a F-101B Voodoo jet fighter, the FB111A Aardvark medium range bomber, the rare XF-85 Goblin fighter escort (one of only two ever built), helicopters, rockets, missiles, spacecraft, a Space Shuttle Atlantis training simulator and other airplanes. SAC was disestablished in 1992. SAC was responsible for control of two of the three components of the U.S. military’s nuclear strike forces.IMG_20170728_135821IMG_20170728_135831IMG_20170728_143604IMG_20170728_145055IMG_20170728_151017

This Link Aircraft Simulator was the very first simulator used to train pilots.
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IMG_20170728_151504Bill worked early in his career on a Weapons System Simulator (fighter jet) for this Phantom II jet by McDonnell Douglas.
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There is an exhibit on what was discovered about the horrors of World War II.IMG_20170728_153551IMG_20170728_153528IMG_20170728_153433
Two of the most famous planes used for reconnaissance is the U-2 and SR-71.IMG_20170728_162632IMG_20170728_165124
IMG_20170728_165042On Saturday we had a nice dinner with Bill’s cousin Jimmie who lives in Papillion.

Next stop: Lincoln, Nebraska

Nebraska Facts:

  • Nebraska has nearly 100,000 miles of roads.
  • Its nickname is the Cornhusker State and it is celebrating 150 years of statehood in 2017.
  • Omaha and Lincoln are the two largest cities.
  • Lewis, Clark and the Corps of Discovery navigated the Missouri River on their quest to find the Northwest Passage.  They averaged 10-12 miles a day as they moved upriver in a 55 foot long keelboat and two pirogues.  They were in the Omaha area in July and August of 1804.

Winterset IA July 25, 2017

Tuesday we drove to Winterset to visit the John Wayne Birthplace and Museum.  Wayne was born in the small four room house in 1907 and was named Marion Robert Morrison.  He weighted thirteen pounds! Adjacent to the birthplace is the museum with original movie posters, wardrobes from his films, movie scripts, contracts, letters, artwork and sculptures.IMG_20170725_131909IMG_20170725_13253420170725_14070420170725_141239IMG_20170725_142801

They had his last customized automobile in which the top had been raised to accommodate his height of 6’4”.20170725_135931IMG_20170725_135845IMG_20170725_135735IMG_20170725_14022720170725_13520920170725_13261920170725_132619(1)

Did you know John Wayne got his nickname “The Duke” from a dog? He had a dog named Duke and they were together so much they became known as “Little Duke” and “Big Duke”. Wayne from a Revolutionary War General he portrayed.20170725_145630IMG_20170725_140829IMG_20170725_143003IMG_20170725_142954

There was a small movie theater where we watched a documentary on Wayne’s life and career.  We sat in seats which originally were used at Grauman’s Chinese Theater in Hollywood.20170725_132932IMG_20170725_141608

IMG_20170725_164454Winterset is located in Madison County, Iowa, the setting for Iowa novelist Robert Waller’s 1992 novel The Bridges of Madison County which was also made into a movie in 1995.  Scenes for the movie were shot in Winterset and the town of Adel, Iowa.  People still talk about seeing Clint Eastwood sitting at the lunch counter of the local restaurant!  At one time Madison County had nineteen covered bridges and there are currently six remaining.  The bridges are covered to preserve their large flooring timbers which are expensive to replace.  We drove to the 1883 Roseman Covered Bridge, 107 feet in length and featured in the movie. It is the most popular of the covered bridges and is located far out in the county on a dusty gravel road.IMG_20170725_162848

Before leaving Winterset we also drove to Clark Tower in Winterset’s City Park.  Erected in 1926, it is an unusual monument to the county’s first pioneer family by their descendants.  Constructed of native limestone and 25 feet high, it made for an interesting drive up a very narrow one way road to the top of a hill to the monument.  We climbed to the observation point of the tower but trees prevented a clear view of the Middle River valley below.IMG_20170725_151815IMG_20170725_152200

We really enjoyed our visit to Des Moines and Winterset.IMG_20170725_14274020170725_14352020170725_143528

Next up: Nebraska!

Des Moines IA July 24, 2017

After a great Winnebago rally we left Forest City on Sunday and headed to Des Moines, Iowa’s state capital.  Along the way we continued to see corn, silos and wind turbines.  The corn was still not quite as high as an elephant’s eye, but it did seem to be crying out for rain.  Everything is so dry!20170723_120544

Our campground was the Walnut Woods State Park in West Des Moines.  The park has the largest natural stand of black walnut trees in North America.  There were also signs forbidding the collection of black walnuts in the park.

Our main reason for coming here was to visit Des Moines.  On Monday we made the short drive into the city.  The California Gold Rush once brought people here who stayed rather than continuing west.  The state capital was moved here from Iowa City in 1857.  Much of the economic and political action revolves around agriculture and the grain market.IMG_20170724_113345

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Cornerstone of the Capitol Building

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Our first stop was the state capitol building and it is one of the prettiest we have visited.  We had read that it was beautiful and it did not disappoint!  The capitol building is located on a hill surrounded by a 160 acre park with several monuments.

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Unusual to Allow Weapons inside the Capitol Building

The main dome is covered with 23 carat gold leaf and is flanked by four smaller domes.  The gold leaf covering the dome is so thin that 250,000 sheets pressed together would only measure one inch thick.  The building was begun in 1871 and completed in 1886.IMG_20170724_112418IMG_20170724_111720IMG_20170724_11195020170724_112918

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Can you find Diane?

The main dome, rising 275 feet above the Capitol grounds, is currently undergoing renovation and is covered with scaffolding.  

The interior is made of 29 types of marble and has ornately decorated ceilings and corridors as well as beautiful paintings and statues.IMG_20170724_111840IMG_20170724_112629IMG_20170724_113838IMG_20170724_114034IMG_20170724_114246

There is a scale model of the battleship Iowa which is currently docked in the Port of Los Angeles.  Bill toured the battleship in 2014 (see that blog here) when we were out west.  One of the battleship’s two bells, weighing 1,000 pounds is also on display.20170724_11504720170724_114509

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This is the Iowa State Flag

The capitol building had a glass display case of dolls representing all of the Iowa first ladies in their inaugural gowns.

We could have taken a guided tour but we picked up a guide pamphlet and did our own self guided tour.  The lady at the information desk told us to be sure and go into the law library.  It is not something we probably would have thought to visit but we sure were glad we did.  It was amazing with iron grillwork circular staircases at each end of the library.   Absolutely beautiful!

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Can you find Bill?

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We walked around the grounds and saw a small replica of the Statue of Liberty and the Liberty Bell.  Did you know each capital city in the United States has a replica of the Liberty Bell somewhere in their city?IMG_20170724_121527IMG_20170724_122127

Next: John Wayne’s hometown Winterset IA

Aitkin, Minneapolis & St Paul, MN July 4, 2017

Hoping we left the terrible mosquitoes behind, we headed further south to the tiny town of Aitkin, MN.  We settled here for the Fourth of July holiday, glad to be off the busy highways.  Our four days went by quickly and since there wasn’t much to see or do in the area, we used the time to do some chores around the RV.  We installed extra insulation in the pantry and the upper cabinets to hopefully keep those areas cooler.  We cleaned the vents and Bill changed the water filter and ice maker filter.  We vacuumed out the tow car, washed it, and Bill applied wax.  He also applied 303® Aerospace Protectant™ to the dashboard.  He worked hard getting all the dead bugs off the front of the RV.  We even managed to get a couple blogs published.  It was a busy and productive four days!  And on Independence Day the RV park had a golf cart parade.IMG_20170703_162137IMG_20170703_162108-PANO

On Thursday we moved to the Farmington, MN fairgrounds located about thirty minutes south of the Minneapolis/St Paul area.

20170706_182729After settling in we drove up to Bloomington to the Mall of America.  The Mall of America is the largest entertainment and shopping destination in North America with 520 stores and more than sixty restaurants.  It is four stories, sits on 96 acres and has 12,500 parking spaces.  The most amazing thing was the amusement park in the center with a roller coaster, a boat ride as well as many other thrilling rides.  After dinner at Bubba Gump Shrimp we spent a couple hours walking around the colossal complex. PANO_20170706_19424220170706_194122 20170706_193931

IMG_20170706_204754In the Mall is a memorial to Thomas Burnett who died on 9/11 after his plane was overtaken by terrorists and went down in the fields of Pennsylvania.  Burnett was born in Bloomington and attended school there during his childhood years.  He was married and the father of four daughters when he died.  I found it interesting that a year before the plane went down he started attending church because of a strong sense of foreboding which he expressed to his wife.  On the day of the attack Burnett was one of four passengers to storm the cockpit, foiling the terrorists’ plan to crash the plane into the White House or U.S. Capitol.  He is buried at Fort Snelling National Cemetery in Minnesota.  

On September 11, 2002 the Mall of America dedicated the Tom Burnett 9/11 Memorial with a plaque entitled “Do Something” and an open door representing the cockpit door with the message “To Deem Life Important and to Act Affects All of Those That Bear Witness…”.  The open door also represents a door to a brighter, safer future and encourages people to walk toward the future intent on doing something good, something kind, something noble and something right.

On Friday we had our six month blood work done and got service done on the Honda tow car.

Sunday we took advantage of lighter traffic and drove into Minneapolis and St Paul.  Minneapolis and St Paul are ranked first and second by the Trust for Public Land for best city parks in the nation.  Minneapolis-St  Paul claims to have the coldest average temperature of any major metro area in the lower 48 states and because of this Minneapolis has a continuous network skyway system with enclosed pedestrian bridges that is purportedly the world’s largest. St Paul has five miles of glass tunnels to allow people to go from building to building.  About 18 years ago Bill worked for six weeks in Minneapolis in late November, early December and he will never forget how cold it was out on the streets.  Especially for someone from Florida!!  He used those enclosed pedestrian walkways a lot!

We had quite a lengthy list of places to visit so we got a very early start.  First up was Minneapolis which is a large city with many tall buildings.  Very different from smaller St Paul.

IMG_20170709_122608We stopped by the Minneapolis Visitor Information Center to see the statue of Mary Richards.  Who can forget this popular character from The Mary Tyler Moore Show!  The statue was given by TV Land to the city.  It used to be outside but construction on Nicolette Street forced the statue to be moved inside.  We then drove to a nearby neighborhood to see the turn of the century Victorian house shown on the series where Mary supposedly had an apartment.  We noticed the private residence is now for sale.  There are other locations around the city featured on the show but there just wasn’t enough time to see them all.IMG_20170709_115152

We visited the St Anthony Falls Visitor Center Lock and Dam.  At one time St Anthony Falls was the only natural major waterfall on the Upper Mississippi River.  After the falls partially collapsed in 1869, the natural falls were replaced by a concrete overflow spillway.  In the 1950’s and 1960’s a series of locks and dams was constructed to extend navigation.  

20170709_103631From 1880 to around 1930, Minneapolis was the “Flour Milling Capital of the World”.  Evidence of this can be seen in the Washburn Mill ruins of what was once the largest flour mill in the world located near the falls.20170709_104230

The Mississippi National River and Recreation Area (a U.S. National Park) protects a 72-mile and 54,000-acre corridor along the Mississippi River from the cities of Dayton and Ramsey, Minnesota to just downstream of Hastings, Minnesota. In the middle of Minneapolis is the St Anthony Falls Lock and Dam. IMG_20170709_101759IMG_20170709_101050

Overlooking St Anthony Falls Lock and Dam on one side and the mills ruins on the other is the beautiful Stone Arch Bridge.  Constructed in 1883, this is a former railroad bridge which crosses the Mississippi River and is the only arched bridge made of stone on the entire Mississippi River.  The second oldest bridge on the Mississippi, it is made of native granite and limestone and measures 2100 feet with 21 stone arches.  The bridge is now a pedestrian and bicycle bridge and is an Historic Civil Engineering Landmark and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1971.  We enjoyed walking on part of the bridge with beautiful views of St Anthony Falls, the Mississippi River and the Minneapolis skyline.

Next we visited Guthrie Theater because we wanted to walk on the Endless Bridge. This 178 foot long cantilevered structure is neither endless nor a bridge but a steel truss that is counterbalanced by the weight of the building.  The Endless Bridge is in the left of the picture of the building. The attraction here is the magnificent views of the city, the Stone Arch Bridge and St Anthony Falls Lock and Dam.20170709_104648

We drove by the U.S. Bank Stadium which is where the Minnesota Vikings play football.  The massive stadium is in the shape of a Viking ship.  Really neat but hard to get a good picture of the entire stadium from our car. IMG_20170709_095451 

Next was Target Field where the Twins play baseball.  They had a home game today but we were early enough to avoid the crowd and traffic.  The Twin Cities will host the Super Bowl LII in 2018 and the NCAA Final Four in 2019.IMG_20170709_094219IMG_20170709_094653

The Basilica of St Mary, named the first basilica in the United States by Pope Pius XI in 1926, is located here.  It was completed in 1915, has a 200 foot high dome and a rose window.IMG_20170709_120825

We went by the Sculpture Garden but since we were running out of time and parking was scarce, we snapped a couple pictures of two of the most popular sculptures, the cherry and the blue chicken.IMG_20170709_120731IMG_20170709_120747

By now it was lunchtime and time to move on to St Paul, the capital of Minnesota.  Minneapolis and St Paul is divided by an “S” shape carved by the Mississippi River. It is approximately a six mile drive between the two cities.  At 26.2 miles, St Paul has more miles of Mississippi riverfront than any other city in the U.S.  IMG_20170709_141227It is known as a “City of Neighborhoods” which celebrates different heritages and diversity.  After grabbing lunch at a barbecue joint, we headed to the State Capitol building.IMG_20170709_133953

The Minnesota State Capitol is a Renaissance Revival Style building, with the second largest self supported dome in the world after Saint Peter’s.  It was modeled after Saint Peter’s Basilica in Rome with the dome inspired by the U.S. Capitol dome.  The building is made of 25 different types of stone including 16 varieties of marble from around the world as well as Minnesotan granite and limestone.  Construction on the capitol was started in 1896 and completed in 1905 at a cost of $4.5 million.  Above the southern entrance is a gilded chariot with four horses representing the power of nature; earth, wind, fire and water.  The women leading the horses symbolize civilization and the man on the horse, prosperity.IMG_20170709_133623

Near the capitol is the Cathedral of Saint Paul, the third largest churches in North America, seating 3,000 people.  It has a 175 foot copper dome and six chapels. The cornerstone was set in 1907 and the design was Inspired by churches in France.IMG_20170709_134027

Charles Schultz of the Peanuts cartoon fame, was born in Minneapolis but spent most of  his childhood in St Paul where his father owned a barbershop.  During this time Schultz and his  father were known to purchase newspapers from Minneapolis and St Paul to  be sure they saw every cartoon strip printed locally.  For five summers after his death in 2,000, artists from all over St Paul designed and displayed renditions of Peanuts characters.  In Rice and Landmark Parks as well as throughout St Paul you can see the Peanut characters.IMG_20170709_145548IMG_20170709_145710IMG_20170709_144107IMG_20170709_145437

We ended the day with a stop at Minnehaha Regional Park to see the beautiful 53 foot Minnehaha Falls, one of the most photographed sites in in Minnesota.  The name Minnehaha comes from the Dakota language and means waterfall. Even though he never visited Minnehaha Falls, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow made the Falls famous in his poem, “The Song of Hiawatha”.IMG_20170709_154405IMG_20170709_154929  

Enjoy the following video: 

A bronze statue of Hiawatha carrying Minnehaha is located on a small island in the park.  The statue was created in 1893 and placed in the park in 1912.IMG_20170709_161516

We enjoyed our time in Minneapolis and St Paul, however the two cities, especially Minneapolis, are very frustrating to drive in with many confusing one way streets complicated by construction and road closures.

Next up: Albert Lea and our last days in Minnesota