Author Archives: William Selph

March 3, 2015 Taupo, New Zealand

We drove the Thermal Explorer Highway from Rotorua to Taupo, occasionally seeing steaming vents puffing steam from deep inside the earth amid the scenic farmland.  It was easy to see all around us where the land had been pushed up leaving tall pointed hills. After about an hour drive we entered Taupo, a beautiful town hugging the shoreline of huge Lake Taupo.  With many shops and restaurants lining the shoreline, this town PicsArt_1425590488482appeared more like a resort town.We stopped for lunch and parked in a P60 space (60 minute limit).  We noticed what appeared to be sensors in the asphalt under each car.  We surmised these must be a kind of device that keeps track of how long you have been in that parking spot.
For the first time since we arrived in New Zealand we saw several souvenir shops.  We did not see any in Thames and Rotorua only had one.
We checked into our motel with a small fridge, microwave and private patio with table and chairs where we could sit in the mornings or afternoons and relax with coffee or a drink.  No plunge pool.  Once again we were given a container of milk for coffee or tea, so Bill uses it for his cereal.
While in Taupo we visited the Aratiatia Rapids.  This once natural whitewater gorge was damned up behind the gates of the Aratiatia hydro-dam. Due to public outcry over the loss of the rapids, four times a day the floodgates are raised and a torrent of river water rages again through the Aratiatia gorge.  Beginning eight minutes before the gates are PicsArt_1425591243364PicsArt_1425591328771PicsArt_1425590743304raised and at two minute intervals, bells and whistles sound.  We had a choice of three viewing platforms and chose to hike to the highest one.  We arrived early enough to grab a geocache close by the viewing platform.  Bill showed a family walking nearby with small children the geocache and explained geocaching.  The parents were intrigued and the children thought it was really neat!  By the time the gates were raised all three viewing platforms were full of observers.PicsArt_1425590862347PicsArt_1425590925548
Also while in Taupo we visited Huka Falls.  This is advertised as one of the most beautiful tourist attractions in New Zealand.  The Falls are a 100 meter basalt crevice channeling the Waikato River over a 15 meter ledge.  The falls were lovely though we felt the viewing areas did not provide a really great view of the falls. The water flows through the crevice or channel at 62,000 gallons per SECOND!PicsArt_1425591054510
Our last day in Taupo we spent geocaching.  We searched the geocaching.com site and chose several caches where people had given the caches many favorite mark.  We have found that geocaching in new places takes us to beautiful areas we would not ordinarily know about and see.  And this day did not disappoint with two geocaches that led us to a cave and one with a beautiful view of Lake Taupo.PicsArt_1425590393444PicsArt_1425590130933
Some observations:
Tipping is not expected and the service reflects this.  Once your order is taken and your food delivered, you never see the waiter again.  No one checks to see if you need anything or if you like your food.  If you need something you flag a waiter down.  We learned after waiting for our check a couple times that your check is not delivered to the table.  You go inside to the register and they ring up the bill.
Salad and bread is never provided with your entree.  They are separate items on the menu.
When you order water with your meal it rarely has ice and they give you a decanter since they won’t be coming back!
If you order a burger and it says it comes with a salad, the salad is the lettuce and tomato on the burger.  After waiting a couple times for the salad that never came, we figured it out.
If you order a side salad with your entree it is delivered with the meal, not ahead of time.
The mattresses are on the floor.  There is no space between the box springs and the bed.PicsArt_1425589966804PicsArt_1425589831860PicsArt_1425589618705

March 1, 2015 Rotorua, New Zealand

 

We arrived in Rotorua and checked into our motel.  Our room had a private patio area with our own plunge pool.  It is similar to a hot tub but without the jets.  The motel owner gave us milkIMG_3558 for our tea or coffee and bottle of gel for the plunge pool.  We enjoyed the small fridge and microwave in the room.
Tour books say Rotorua is known by locals as RotoVegas because of the strip of hotels that resembles the Vegas Strip.  I can tell you that comparison is a real stretch with Rotorua being nothing like Vegas!  Thank heavens!  We learned on a hike that Rotorua was the fourth city in New Zealand to have electricity.
Rotorua is an active geothermal area and it is common to see steam rising from the ground.  Another thing you immediately notice is the smell of rotten eggs that permeates the town, with some areas being smellier than others.  Just as many places in the western United States have taken advantage of solar and wind turbine power, the people in the Rotorua area have taken advantage of the geothermal activity.  A sign at the motel PicsArt_1425459178526described how they use the geothermal energy to heat the water we used for showers.  When we filled the plunge pool up the first time we were amazed at the steaming hot water coming from the faucet and had to quickly add cold water.
On one of our days in Rotorua we drove to the Hamurana Springs Loop Walkway for a short walk through a forest of California Coast redwoods.  Yes, I said California coast!  The IMG_3570IMG_3571redwoods were planted in 1901 as an experiment to test the suitability of different forest species for commercial planting.  They discovered other trees were faster growing and more suited to this area.  It was a beautiful walk through the 200 feet tall redwoods but did not begin to compare to the redwoods in California we saw last year.
Next we visited Okere Falls and the Kaituna Rapids.  At seven meters, this is the world’s largest commercially operated rafted waterfall drop.  We hiked the trail down many steps to the falls IMG_3564overlook and a cave.  We hoped to see some rafters shoot thru the rapids.  We waited awhile with no luck and since we had more to do that day we hiked back to the car.
We finished the day at Kuirau Park.  What a unique park this was located centrally in the middle of Rotorua.  Where else could you see a children’s playground, a ballfield, barbeque pits, picnic tables and beautiful walking paths amid seething mudpits and PicsArt_1425457411657steaming cauldrons spewing from the earth?  We spent time walking around looking at all the steaming vents and boiling sputtering mud pits.  We came across a foot pool provided for people to soak their feet in clean water heated from the geothermal activity.  Some Japanese tourists were sitting PicsArt_1425457344589PicsArt_1425457254945IMG_3581enjoying the water and invited me to join them.  I put one foot in and was shocked at how hot the water was.  I took my now very pink foot out of the water and we continued on our way.  We decided to finish our time at the park by finding a geocache located close by.  As we were searching it dawned on us that a young New Zealand couple near us was looking for the same geocache.  We struck up a conversation with them and joined forces in the quest for the elusive geocache.  Eventually it was found and we signed the log and told our new friends farewell.  It sure was fun geocaching with them!
On our last day in Rotorua we decided to hike the Whaka-Rewa-Rewa Viewpoint Trek.  We had read that this trail would take us to a beautiful view of Rotorua and the Pohutu Geyser.  This geyser was recently ranked as one of the world’s top 5 geysers by Lonely Planet.  It is said to erupt 100 feet twenty times a day.  It is said that eruptions can last for several minutes to several IMG_3590IMG_3594IMG_3597days.  In 2000-2001 it erupted for a straight 250 days.
We parked in the carpark and hiked up and down a fairly difficult trail which at times was no more than a deeply rutted path.  By the time we got to the lookout we were pretty hot and tired and with no shade or place to sit, began the wait for an eruption.  After close to an hour we were discouraged and ready to give up.  A Kiwi (New Zealander) came by and told us due to a drop in the water table and more and more people tapping into the area’s geothermal resources, the dependability and frequency of eruption is changing.  Broiling in the heat and sunburning by the second we decided to give up.  The Kiwi told us a shorter and easier way to get back to the carpark.  Even though we only got pictures of the Pohutu Geyser teasing us with lots of steam, we still enjoyed the views of Rotorua and if truth be told the exercise wasn’t bad for us either.  We did spend some time in the plunge pool that night relaxing our tired muscles.
The next morning as we were heading out of Rotorua we stopped by the Ohinemutu Village to see the impressive museum and some Maori carvings.  We noticed a group playing a game on the village green.  We found out it is a type of bowling played there since 1901.PicsArt_1425458206166PicsArt_1425458157844PicsArt_1425458109684
Some observations:
I struggle a lot with different food in new places.  Bill will eat anything and has enjoyed venison pie and lamb.
I do love their shortbread cookies here!
Coffee is ridiculously expensive at a minimum of $3 USD for a medium cup at McDonald’s or anywhere.
You do not see health signs in restaurants warning of everything that can cause cancer or birth defects.

February 28, 2015 Karangahake Gorge, New Zealand

We left Thames and headed to Rotorua (Row-toe-roo-a).  Along the way we stopped at Karangahake Gorge.  Here the Waitawheta River charges out of its steep rocky canyon IMG_3522and merges with the Ohinemuri River.  Almost all the names of streets, road, cities and towns and geographical places are named by the Maori people.  Generations ago canoes of Maori ancestors sailed from East Polynesia and landed in New Zealand.  Due to mixed marriages there are now very few Maori of pure Maori descent in New Zealand.
Here at the Karangahake Gorge we elected to do the Windows Walk which took us over two swinging bridges, up many many steps, and through tunnels which required IMG_3527IMG_3531IMG_3538flashlights which fortunately we had brought from Phoenix.  The mine tunnels had a series of openings or windows which looked down at the remains of the batteries and river below.  Panels along the path told the story of how over 100 years ago gold was mined in this area.  Gold was extracted from quartz ore and was the nation’s third largest and most productive quartz gold mine.  An incredible four million ounces of goldIMG_3535IMG_3533 was removed from this area.
After our hike we stopped to view Owharoa falls then we continued on to Mt MaunganuiIMG_3540 which is really a lovely and popular beach town in the shadows of Mt Maunganui, an extinct volcano.  This seemed much like a California beach town with many shops andIMG_3553 restaurants as well as sun worshipers.  We saw people making the long trek up to the top of the volcano for theIMG_3552IMG_3547 view of the town below, but we found people watching more entertaining.  On this day they were having youths between the ages of 10 and 14 competing in an ocean lifeguard event.  All of the youth had qualified to be lifeguards and this competition was to recognize the best of the best.  We chatted with one of the mothers of the competitors and she said that since New Zealand is surrounded by water, children train at a young age to be lifeguards since they are in high demand.

Some observations:
Everything in New Zealand is metric so we are having to refresh our knowledge of the metric system.
A “track” is a walk and a “tramp” is a hike and expect some challenging terrain.
A “torch” is a flashlight.
A large pizza and a large coffee is the size considered medium in the U.S.
New Zealand does not have many traffic lights or stop signs.  Instead there are round-abouts everywhere.  Bill loves them and I hate them.
All the beef used in fast food restaurants is 100% New Zealand beef and it is really good.
The New Zealand people are friendly and eager to help.  They are curious about where we have been and where we are going in their country.  Strangers say hello and wish you a good day.

February 27, 2015 Thames, New Zealand

We left Auckland and headed toward the town of Thames ( pronounced Tims).  Along the way we drove to the Coromandel Peninsula.  This stretch of scenic highway is considered one of the best on the North Island.  The road hugs the coast of the Firth of Thames (a bay) and has narrow roads and several one lane bridges with signs telling you which side has to “give away” (yield).  We passed through one particularly harrowing stretch of road that was extremely narrow and we wondered what would have happened if we had passed one of the many large trucks traveling the road.
We stopped along the way at a rest/camping area and talked awhile with a New Zealand couple camping there in their camper van.  They owned their camper van but this also IMG_3495IMG_3499seems like a popular way for tourists to travel in New Zealand since they are readily available for rent.  New Zealand is very friendly to campers and there are several options available with campgrounds as well as places you can camp for free for two nights. This couple was staying in a free two night area near the water where they could swim and fish.  We seriously considered this option when planning our trip but decided to go the rental car/hotel route.IMG_3498
We arrived in Thames for a two night stay.  We usually do not do bread and breakfast places, but this place had excellent ratings and private chalets.  We were greeted warmly by the owner and given homemade shortbread cookies and a bottle of liqueur.  We loved our little chalet which was bigger than a hotel room and had a small fridge, microwave and hot plate/convection oven.  We had access to the hot tub steps away from our chalet and the use of their large barbecue grill.  We certainly enjoyed relaxing in the hot tub and watching the sun set over the Firth of Thames.
The new day we drove to Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach.  Cathedral Cove is known as the most beautiful small beach on the North Island.  We were lucky to find a IMG_3508parking spot in their very small lot and walked around admiring the beautiful views.  It is possible to hike from the parking lot down a very long steep path to the beach, but on this hot day we decided to pass on the hike and admire the beauty from afar.
Our next stop was Hot Water Beach.  This is one of the North Island’s biggest tourist attractions.  During low tide scalding hot water pulses out of the sand.  You can rent a shovel and dig yourself a spot to make your own spa pool.  All this must be done withinIMG_3517IMG_3516IMG_3514 two hours of low tide and since low tide was 9AM and 9 PM we missed it.  Somehow knowing we had a nice clean hot tub waiting for us at the chalet made the thought of wallowing in hot mud less attractive anyway.  IMG_3519IMG_3521IMG_3502
Some observations:
A car park is a parking lot.
The New Zealand sun is very intense and hard on fair skin.  It is possible to get a sunburn through the car window and 50 SPF doesn’t help much.
The New Zealand currency is much like the U.S. dollar in some ways.  They have coins for one and two dollars instead of paper.  The smallest coin they have is 10 cents so if you purchase something and need change less than ten cents they keep the difference.  Hey!  That adds up!
The days here are 13 hours long.
Bill says the coffee is not very strong.
Living out of a suitcase and moving every two or three days has its challenges.  If I had 10 cents for every time we said “I can’t find” or “do you know where….”, I would have enough money to buy me one of those $4 cans of Diet Coke!
A note on immigration.  The government here makes it very hard to immigrate to New Zealand.  Before we boarded the plane the airlines made it clear to everyone boarding the plane that you better have proof of a return ticket when you got to Customs in New Zealand.  When we arrived they did ask us how long we were staying and we signed a customs form declaring that to be true.  They did not ask us for any proof.

Auckland, New Zealand February 24, 2015

We are now in New Zealand! After a short flight from Phoenix to Los Angeles, we changed planes and flew to Honolulu. We felt it would be easier on us physically to break the long flight up with an overnight stay in Honolulu to get a good night’s rest at a hotel near the airport. The flight to Honolulu was easy except by the time we got to our hotel it was almost midnight. Since we had gotten up that morning at 5:00 AM, it made for a long day.
Luckily our flight the next day to New Zealand left in the afternoon so we were able to sleep in the next morning.
We flew to both Honolulu and then to New Zealand on Hawaiian Airlines. They really do a nice job and as far as I know they are the only airlines still providing free meals which included complimentary wine.
Nine hours later, after crossing the equator and the International Date Line,
we arrived in Auckland, New Zealand. Right before we landed they announced that after we landed everyone was to remain in their seats with their seatbelts fastened. A Customs official would enter the plane at which time the flight attendants would open up all the overhead bins and spray them. Sure enough they opened up the bins and walked up and down the aisles and sprayed some unknown substance??? After waiting several minutes we were told we could depart the plane.
We made it through customs without any problems. They x-rayed our luggage and when they saw we had hiking boots they made us open the bags and remove the boots so they could inspect them. We had read before going that this might happen so we had already washed and brushed the bottoms of the boots before packing them.
Our hotel provided a shuttle from the airport to the hotel and we had no problem finding a courtesy phone to call for the shuttle to pick us up. It was again almost midnight when we arrived at the hotel.
The next day we picked up our rental car and Bill was able to rent a New Zealand Sim card at a Vodafone store so we could make calls and internet access while we are here if needed.
Bill has done a great job driving on the left side of the road with the steering wheel on the right side. I haven’t tried it yet. The advice the rental car agent gave was "to do exactly opposite of whatever your instincts tell you to do".
Our first stop after leaving Auckland will be the town of Thames for a two night stay.
Our next blog post will have pictures. Some observations so far:
When driving on a multi lane highway, the slow lane is on the left and the fast lane is on the right.
We are still having trouble figuring out what day it is since the USA is a day behind us.
People from New Zealand are called Kiwis.
Chippies are potato chips and chunky chips are French fries.
Grocery carts are called trolleys and elevators are lifts.
If the grocery store has signs warning "Filling in Progress" it means they are stocking the shelves.
New Zealand has a lot of McDonald’s, some KMarts, Subway, Carl Jrs, KFC, and Pizza Hut but NO Walmart or snakes.
New Zealand McDonalds does not have Bill’s sweet tea much to his disappointment.
Restrooms are called Ladies toilets and Mens toilets and you have two options for flushing to save water.
Bathrooms have only hand dryers and no paper towels and restaurants never give you enough napkins.
Soft drinks are ridiculously high. About $29 New Zealand dollars for 24 cans. In the hotel they charge you $4 a can. I am trying hard to kick my Diet Coke addiction.
I love the New Zealand accent!

February 4, 2015 Lake Havasu and Yuma, Arizona

We left the dazzling lights of Las Vegas and headed back towards Arizona. We decided to break up the trip by staying overnight in Quartzsite at the same spot we had previously stayed. On the way we decided to stop in Lake Havasu to see the London Bridge. Yes, a real London Bridge.

The old London Bridge of nursery rhyme fame was built between 1176 and 1209. During its 600 years, over 30 severed heads of traitors were displayed on the bridge as was the custom of the time.IMG_3489IMG_3488IMG_3490

By the end of the eighteenth century the old London Bridge needed extensive repair and was too narrow for river traffic. The new bridge was begun in 1799 and completed in 1831. However as time passed the new bridge began sinking at a rate of an inch every eight years. By 1924 the east side of the bridge was three to four inches lower than the west side. The bridge simply had not been designed to withstand 20th century automobile traffic. In 1967 the city of London placed the bridge on the market.

On April 18, 1968, the winning bid went to entrepreneur and Lake Havasu City founder Robert P. McCulloch for $2,460,000. Each block of the bridge was meticulously numbered before the bridge was disassembled and shipped overseas through the Panama Canal to California and then trucked from Long Beach to Arizona. The bridge was reconstructed in Lake Havasu City and finally dedicated on October 10, 1971. Including the expense for relocation and reassembly, the total cost of the bridge was $5.1 million.

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Colorado River held up by Parker dam

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Havasu Springs resort area

Lake Havasu City was incorporated in 1978 and became a legal municipality in 1987. It is quite a young city which makes the growth we saw pretty amazing. The city has shopping malls including a Dillards, as well as many box stores and restaurants. The motto of Lake Havasu is “Play Like You Mean It”. The city appears to be popular with snowbirds, though we did not see as many RV parks as other cities in Arizona.

As we continued on our way to Quartzsite we passed beautiful Lake Havasu Springs Resort. It certainly looked like a beautiful place to spend some time in the winter!

After a quick overnight stop in Quartzsite we continued on to Yuma where we stayed for a week. We drove over to Los Algodones, Mexico one day where Bill got a great deal on some sunglasses and had shrimp tacos for lunch. I got a great haircut, wash and blow dry for $10. The only downside to the day was the 90 minute wait to get through customs and walk back across the border. It seems every snowbird in Arizona was in Los Algodones that day making for very long lines. We spent the wait chatting with other snowbirds and watching all the vendors walk up and down the sidewalk trying to make that last sale before we crossed back over into the US.

While we were in Yuma the temperatures hovered in the upper 80’s. Life is tough!IMG_20150208_143436~2

July 1, 2013 St Joseph’s Peninsula FL

After spending our first night at Manatee Springs State Park, we arrived on July 1st at Port St Joe FL and stayed at St Joseph Peninsula State Park .   As you can see from the pictures, even in the middle of summer, the beach is not at all crowded.    It doesn’t look like it, but there were strong winds while we were there, so they had red warning flags flying during our stay.  Beautiful beach and gorgeous sunsets!  Who could ask for anything more!

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June 29, 2013 Day One

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House has been sold.  Bill is retired.  We are finally on our way!!  As we drove out of town there was a feeling of excitement and also a strong feeling of…..is this REALLY FINALLY happening???!!!  After months of planning, preparation and hard work, our dream was finally being realized.  WOW!

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