Category Archives: National Park or Forest

National Park or Forest

July 28, 2014 Glacier National Park, Part 2

Today we decided to hike one of the most popular trails in the park, the Avalanche Trail.  We were up early in an attempt to beat the heat and find a parking spot at the trailhead.  At 9:30 we got the last parking spot at the trailhead. Since there were numerous warnings about this being “Bear Country”, we were armed with a whistle in case we encountered Smokey theIMG_1620 IMG_1621 Bear.  We noticed hikers on the trail with bells attached to their backpacks and one even had two metal Sierra cups that clanged together as he walked.  These all did a great job of warning us that someone was coming up behind us, but truthfully the trail was so crowded that I expect any bears within miles had quickly retreated to someplace more quiet and peaceful.  Early on the trail we saw a beautiful waterfall and could see where over time the rushing water had carved a canyon through the rock.  Stunning!  The views of the valley and  mountains provided us with untouched beauty.IMG_1598 IMG_1600 IMG_1605

The five mile trail was a fairly steady climb of 500 feet and combined with the heat, we were glad to reach the end of the trail at Avalanche Lake with a gorgeous view of three waterfalls cascading down the mountain.

Avalanche Lake with high waterfalls in the distance

Avalanche Lake with high waterfalls in the distance

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The steep climb downhill had our toes screaming as they pushed against our hiking boots, and we were glad to reach the car and some AC!  The rest of the day was spent resting and enjoying the coolness of the RV.

The next day Bill went on a half day white water rafting trip on the Middle Fork Flathead River.  I was not feeling well from the effects of the heat and some dehydration from the previous day’s hike.  Bill went out on the water with an expert guide so I didn’t worry about him too much.  He had a great time and brought home some great pictures.  I am looking forward to going with him in the future!

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Middle Fork of Flathead river

Middle Fork of Flathead river

Middle Fork of Flathead river

Middle Fork of Flathead river

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July 27, 2014 Glacier National Park Part 1

We left Coeur d’ Alene knowing we had a long drive ahead of us.  We typically drive around 100 miles every 3 to 7 days.  But the wildfires in Washington changed our timetable and itinerary and we had to move faster than we like to get to our reservation in Coram, Montana.  Bill knows the importance of taking a break every hour or so when driving a large vehicle, so with a couple breaks and a nice lunch break, it took us 6 hours to reach Coram.  As we drove through the northern tip of Idaho and western Montana we were amazed at all the large, beautiful lakes and magnificent views.  We saw mile after mile of farmland with crops and freshly cut hay in the fields.  As we traveled farther and farther east, the temperature also continued to climb.

We reached the private campground in Coram, Montana about 5 miles from the entrance to Glacier National Park.  Since the temperature was in the nineties, we were really hoping for a site with some shade.  While the park has very few trees, they did assign us a spot with a small tree that afforded us a little shade.  Since many campsites were in the blazing sun, we were grateful for even a little shade.  During much of our week in Coram the daytime highs were in the low 90’s but in the 50’s at night.  We would start the day with the heat on and then by lunchtime we were turning on the AC.

Our first day we awoke eager to begin exploring the park.  Glacier National Park was established in 1910 and encompasses over a million acres, includes parts of two mountain ranges, has over 130 named lakes, over 700 miles of hiking trails, more than 1,000 species of plants and hundreds of species of animals.  Glacier National Park borders Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada and together the two parks are known as the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, established in 1932 as the world’s first International Peace Park.  Both parks are designated by the United Nations as World Heritage sites and Biosphere Reserves.IMG_20140728_110952

The best way to view the park is by driving along the Going-To-The-Sun Road.  This 50 mile road, which bisects the park from the east to west, is one of the world’s most spectacular roads and an engineering marvel.  The road follows the shores of the park’s two largest lakes, hugging cliffs below the Continental Divide until it reaches Logan’s Pass at an elevation of over 6,600 feet.  The views as you climb up into the sky are truly stunning with views of mountains, lakes and waterfalls.  It is hard to imagine how they put in this road alongside the cliffs.  As you look at the pictures try to pick out the Going-To-The-Sun Road in the middle of the pictures.  It is a small line in the middle of the picture.  That is the road weIMG_1663 IMG_1658 IMG_1537 IMG_1660 IMG_1550 IMG_1548IMG_1519 IMG_1536drove!  Two of our favorite waterfalls was Haystack Falls and Bird Woman Falls.  Bird Woman Falls is just west of the Continental Divide which means the water here will eventually make its way to the Pacific Ocean.  Amazing!  This falls was named for Sacajawea, the Native American guide who led Lewis and Clark through the wilderness.  The word Sacajawea means “Bird Woman”.

Haystack waterfall

Haystack waterfall

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Bird Woman Falls, nearly 500 feet tall fed by snowmelt

Bird Woman Falls, nearly 500 feet tall fed by snowmelt

On our first day we intended to drive as far as Logan’s Pass and turn around and drive back to our campground on the western side of the park, saving the eastern side of the Going-To-The-Sun Road for another day.  It took us quite awhile to get to Logan’s Pass because at every turn we wanted to stop at an overlook and take pictures and marvel at the views before us.  Near Logan’s Pass we saw mountain goats grazing alongside the mountains. IMG_1634 IMG_1551 When we reached Logan’s Pass the parking lot was full and the Ranger was waving everyone on to the next parking area a quarter of a mile away.  When we reached that area it too was full.  We decided to skip the Visitor’s Center and return another day.  We turned around but at that moment a helicopter landed in the middle of the road, blocking traffic in both directions.  We heard that someone had suffered an asthma attack and it appeared that it would be awhile before the road was open again.  We decided to turn around again and head east which meant we would have a much longer way home but at least we would end up seeing the eastern side of the park which was better than waiting in the hot sun for the road to eventually re-open.  The eastern area of the Going-To-The-Sun Road is undergoing some extensive road repair as they replace the stone retaining walls, drainage pipes, asphalt and everything else that deteriorates with age, traffic and winter weather since the road first opened in 1933.  This meant we drove through three areas of one lane roads with some minor delays.  It was while waiting at one of these delays that we saw a baby cub lumbering across the road right in front of our car. We looked for the mama bear but didn’t see her.

Can you find the bear cub?

Can you find the bear cub?

Saint Mary Lake

Saint Mary Lake

Once we left the park boundary on the east we drove through the Blackfeet Indian Reservation.  It was quite a long way home and while the Road-To-The-Sun is amazing, it is

Tepees come in many sizes

Tepees come in many sizes

the only road through the park, which can be pretty inconvenient.  If you are on the west and want to do something on the east side of the park, you either have to drive the 50 miles on the Road-To-The Sun which is very crowded and slow going with cars and tour buses pullingIMG_1562 in and out of overlooks or drive south outside the park around to the east and go in that entrance.  Either way it is over a two hour drive each way to get from one side to the other.  We also found if you want to get a parking place at Logan’s Pass or at one of the popular trailheads, you better get an early start in the morning.  The park has a marvelous free shuttle bus system that you can catch at various places throughout the park which takes you to different locations if you don’t want to drive or worry about parking.  We didn’t ride the bus but one of our neighbors at our campground and his wife are spending their summer  working for Glacier National Park driving the shuttle buses.

Our first day at Glacier National Park was pretty amazing!

Mountain reflection on Lake McDonald

Mountain reflection on Lake McDonald

McDonald Lake

McDonald Lake

 

July 18, 2014 Uh-oh Now what??

We have had a delightful 3 days in the North Cascades.  We will post pictures and details later. Yesterday we awoke to the news of wildfires in Eastern Washington.  Our plans were to leave the North Cascades and head east towards the tip of northern Idaho to Glacier National Park in northwestern Montana.  We were not terribly concerned since the fires at that time were not in the route we were going to be taking east.  Things changed quickly when we stopped in a small visitors center yesterday while sightseeing in the Cascades and saw a handwritten sign on the door notifying us that the road we were planning to take is now closed. 20140717_131727 It is the ONLY road east through the Cascades, no detours.  We have monitored the situation throughout the night and this morning the road remains closed with no sign of opening any time in the near future.  The fire is 0% contained at this time.  So we are now contemplating our future.  Do we take the LONG roundabout way back through Seattle and east on I-90 and then up to Montana?  Do we give up our dream of seeing Glacier National Park and cancel our plans?  Do we wait it out and hope the road opens in a week or so knowing we have to be in Redmond, Oregon in 4 weeks for a big rally?  What would you do?  What should we do?  One should always expect the unexpected when traveling.  Stay tuned.  We will give you our decision in the next blog.

July 16, 2014 Marblemount, Washington – North Cascades National Park

We arrived in Marblemount, population 203, and settled in at a small private campground. Marblemount is the last place to get gas and supplies for the next 75 miles before entering the park.  The campground was conveniently less than a mile from the entrance to North Cascades National Park.  After setting up camp we went to the closest ranger station to get maps and details on the park.

IMG_1373 North Cascades National Park, nicknamed “North American Alps”, is made up of 505,000 acres with jagged peaks, sheer canyons, countless waterfalls, and over 300 glaciers.  The area receives incredible amounts of snowfall each year and many parts of the park are closed from late November to late April.  Some of the roads we traveled had only been open since July 1st. Surprisingly, we found out that this park has more glaciers than any other US park other than Alaska. We thought that honor would have gone to Glacier National Park. A ranger told us that there is more water in one North Cascades glacier than all the glaciers in Glacier National Park.

IMG_1375 IMG_1377 IMG_1393 We spent time driving on the North Cascades Scenic Highway, stopping at many overlooks including Ross Lake, Ross Dam, Diablo Lake, Diablo Dam, Gorge Lake and Gorge Dam, which gave us incredible views of Canada to the north and valleys below.

At Diablo Lake Overlook we attended a Ranger talk about the power of ice.  One startling statistic she told us is that the number of glaciers has diminished by half, in less than 100 years, due to climate change.  We hesitate to use the words “global warming” but the Ranger had photographs of the glaciers in twenty year increments and it was amazing to see the shrinkage of the glaciers in recent times.  While the area gets a lot of snow, the amount of rain instead of snow is increasing.  She said the number of glaciers is increasing because some of the large glaciers are breaking up and becoming two or more instead of just one large glacier.  Her talk certainly gave us something to ponder.

IMG_1401 Ross, Diablo and Gorge dams were built between 1919 and 1967 as part of the Skagit River hydro-electric project and form three reservoirs which supply electricity to the city of Seattle.

Ross Dam

Ross Dam

25 mile long Ross Lake

25 mile long Ross Lake

Ross Lake, which begins in Canada, is the largest of the three reservoirs.

Diablo Lake

Diablo Lake

Find Diane on the Diablo dam?

Find Diane on the Diablo dam?

Diablo Lake is a brilliant turquoise blue caused by refracted light on fine rock sediment called glacial flour.

IMG_1390 We found a nice boardwalk trail through the forest with a lovely little waterfall.  Also during our visit to the park and surrounding area we were able to find several geocaches.  While getting one of the caches we met a husband and wife who were teachers on their summer vacation.  It is always nice to meet fellow cachers in our travels and find a geocache together.

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Mount Baker as viewed from the south

Mount Baker as viewed from the south

Zoomed in view of a Mount Baker glacier

Zoomed in view of a Mount Baker glacier

Another day we drove up to Baker Lake with a beautiful view of Mt Baker.  You will notice the water rushing downstream here is not blue but a gray color because of silt from the glaciers. Baker Lake is 9 miles long and a popular camping, fishing and boating area.

Baker Lake

Baker Lake

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As mentioned in an earlier posting, our plans changed due to the horrible Washington wildfires.  It was shocking to see on the news the reports of the devastation in towns not far from us.  Our hearts and prayers go out to the people affected by the fires and we pray for the safety of the firefighters.  Originally we planned to drive through the North Cascades National Park into eastern Washington to the northern tip of Idaho and then into northwestern Montana to Glacier National Park.  We have decided to continue on to Glacier National Park which means we backtrack down to Seattle and take I-90 across the state.  It makes for a longer drive and the interstate will not be nearly as beautiful and interesting as the drive through the Cascades, but we are determined to get to Glacier National Park this year.  Many thanks to all of you for your concern for our safety.  We will be on the move for the next week and will probably not have much time to post to the blog.  We will check in when we can.

 

July 10, 2014 Sedro-Woolley, Washington

We left behind all the Seattle traffic and headed further north to Sedro-Woolley, a town of about 10,000.  It was a sweet, small town with beautiful flowering baskets hanging on every street corner of Main Street and farmers markets selling cherries, raspberries and blueberries. We stayed at a city park campground with electric and water hookups and the nicest camp host we have ever encountered.  We liked it so much there we ended up staying six days instead of the scheduled four. While there we drove down to the city of Mukilteo to meet Bill’s friend Todd and his lovely wife Jayne.  Bill and Todd went to college together in Florida forty years ago.  It was so nice visiting them in their beautiful home with a breathtaking view of Puget Sound.  Todd works for Boeing and Bill enjoyed talking with him about our visit to the Boeing factory. While in Sedro-Woolley we got our tow car serviced with an oil change and tire rotation and also had time to do some sightseeing. One day we drove to Fidalgo island and visited the city of Anacortes and their lovely city park called Washinton Park.  The park has a scenic drive where we took pictures and found geocaches.  Next we went to Desperation Pass State Park on Whidbey island with beautiful views of Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. IMG_1312 IMG_1319 IMG_1315 Deception Pass is a strait separating Whidbey Island from Fidalgo Island.  It connects Skagit Bay, which is part of Puget Sound, with the Strait of Juan de Fuca.IMG_1326 IMG_1324 IMG_1325 While on Whidbey Island we also visited Fort Ebey State Park.  Besides being a beautiful park with a campground and beach, it was the site of a coastal defense fort built during World War II where we walked through the earth covered concrete structure.  Once again the location afforded us fantastic views of Puget Sound and people were out on the grassy area reading and flying kites.

One of three entrances to a bunker used to supply the two guns at Fort Ebey

One of three entrances to a bunker used to supply the two guns at Fort Ebey

Another day we took a day trip up the Mount Baker Highway to Artist Point to catch a close IMG_1369

The Canadian/USA border is about eight miles from this point. These mountains in the background are in Canada.

The Canadian/USA border is about eight miles from this point. These mountains in the background are in Canada.

up glimpse of Mount Baker.  Also a volcano, it is the second highest mountain in Washington

Mount Baker 10,781 FT

Mount Baker 10,781 FT

Mount Baker

Mount Baker

and according to a park ranger, it is one of the snowiest places on earth.  We climbed up to an elevation of 4,700 feet along a steep twisting road with amazing views and quite a bit of snow, which felt so strange since it was 77 degrees!  People were having a grand time IMG_1357 IMG_1354 IMG_1350climbing up the snow banks and playing in the snow in their shorts and sandals.  Even though the snow was still deep and hard packed in places, it felt soft and mushy to the touch.  The road to Artist Point had only been open since July due to late spring snows.  From the parking lot we were able to see Mount Baker,

Mount Shuksan 9,127 FT

Mount Shuksan 9,127 FT

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Mount Shuksan

Mount Shuksan

IMG_1336completely covered in snow as well as Mount Shuksan.

While in Sedro-Woolley we came to the realization that a heat wave had gripped the east side of Washington State.  While the Sedro-Woolley area was warm but comfortable, once we left the North Cascades and traveled over the mountain, temperatures of 100 to 108 degrees awaited us.  This forced us to cancel some reservations and make new plans.  We had originally planned to do some dry camping in the Cascades but decided the high temperatures would make it unpleasant in the RV and damage our stuff.  We canceled some reservations and replanned some routes to take us away from the hot weather or at least at campgrounds where we would have electricity for the AC.  It can get really hot inside an RV when the temperatures begin to climb and the RV has to work extra hard to keep us cool.

Luckily our plans were flexible and allowed for an unexpected change.  With this lifestyle you have to be flexible and willing to go with the unexpected.  Sometimes that makes it even more fun and exciting!

Update:  Since I began writing this post our plans have once again been disrupted and changed due to wildfires in eastern Washington.  Stay tuned for more updates!

July 3, 2014 Mount Rainier, Washington

We left Seaquest State Park the day before the 4th of July. We noticed that early in the morning the rangers had put new reservation cards on all the campsites. The park was going to be full for the holiday and we had been able to enjoy the quiet before the storm of campers.

After a brief time on the freeway, we turned east and were on small state roads as we headed towards Mount Rainier National Park. We arrived at a very small private campground for our four night stay.  We were unable to get cell phone, internet or satellite tv as we were under a thick canopy of trees. This campground was very convenient as it was less than a mile from the entrance to the park.

After setting up we headed to one of the Visitors Centers called Paradise in the park. The drive there was beautiful as we rose to an elevation of 5400 feet, passing small waterfalls fed by melting snow along the way. IMG_1105 IMG_1110

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mount Rainier National Park became a park in 1899 and was the nation’s fifth national park.

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More than 97% of the park is wilderness which includes glaciers, forests, meadows, lakes and wetlands. One of the Rangers at ParadiseIMG_1107 told us that this area is the second snowiest place on earth, with Mount Baker, also in north Washington State being the first. This is due to the amount of moisture it receives from the Pacific Northwest. We were somewhat taken aback when we asked the Ranger about hiking trails and he told us the trails at Paradise were currently snow covered with three to six feet of packed snow.IMG_1165 If we wanted to do any hiking in the park without snow we would have to go to a lower elevation.

 

We looked out of the massive windows at the Visitors Center and could see people walking up and down one of the snow packed trails. We could see those coming down often slipping and falling as the snow packed trail had turned to ice.

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No thanks! We were unable to catch a glimpse of Mount Rainier as he was hiding behind a thick cloud cover. Once we reached a lower elevation on our drive down, Bill was able to capture a picture, though he had to be patient and wait for some clouds to pass.IMG_1116 IMG_1124

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next day which was the 4th of July, we arose early to get a head start on the holiday crowd. We drove to another location in the park called Sunrise Visitors Center.IMG_1161 With an elevation of 6,400 feet, this is the highest point you can drive to in the park, and the views were amazing.

 

 

 

It was a bright sunny day and we were able to get great views of Mount Rainier and the surrounding mountains and valleys. 20140704_085931-1 IMG_1160 IMG_1170 IMG_1166

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Along the way we came upon a brown bear eating some grass along the side of the road.

20140704_110243-1 IMG_1144 We were pretty amazed to see him! We stopped and rolled down the window to take some pictures. He ignored us and kept eating, at one point crossing the road in front of the car to continue his lunch on the other side. By this time cars on both sides of the road had stopped to take pictures.

Mt Rainier is a 14,410 foot tall ice covered volcano. It is in the same class of volcanoes as Mt St Helens. Though the glaciers are not as massive as they once were, the 35 square miles of glaciers constitute the largest single peak glacier system in the lower 48 states. IMG_1191 IMG_1163There are at least 25 glaciers with six of them originating at the summit ice cap. Each year approximately 10,000 people attempt to climb Mount Rainier. Almost half of those reach the summit. When we were at the Visitors Center they had a telescope outside and Bill spotted three climbers who looked like tiny dots high on the mountain. IMG_1173

 

 

 

 

 

 

We ate our picnic lunch while savoring this gorgeous view

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and then drove back down to a lower elevation where we hiked to a beautiful waterfall.  I loved the bridge made from a log.

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June 30, 2014 Mount St. Helens, Washington

We left Bainbridge Island on June 29th which was the first year anniversary of our new life living on the road in our RV.  From the beauty of Picture Rocks and Sleepy Bear Dunes in Michigan, to walking among the Gila Cliff Dwellers in New Mexico, to camping among the giant saguaros in Arizona, seeing the breathtaking Pacific coastline, standing where Lewis and Clark looked out over the Pacific, walking and driving among the ancient redwoods, hiking the rain forests in Oregon, and seeing the power of Mount St Helens and majesty of Mount Rainier, what a truly magnificent year it has been!!  We can’t wait to see what delights our second year brings.

We spent one night on the road at a private campground in Olympia, the capital of Washington.  We got a peak at the capitol building as we passed by on the freeway.

Much of this drive was on Interstate 5, and it had been awhile since we had driven on a freeway. We hadn’t missed the freeway traffic over the past several weeks and it was not a welcome reunion.

We arrived at Seaquest State Park and to our surprise there was only one other RV parked in the full hookup section of the park. Since this is summer and the week of July 4th, we expected the park to be crowded. It remained empty during our entire stay, and when we drove through other parts of the campground they were also fairly empty. It was nice having that section of the park to ourselves, making for a nice quiet stay, very unusual for a state park in the summer. Our stay there was made even more relaxing by a lack of cell phone and internet reception in the park. Bill was able to get satellite tv.

The next day we drove 54 miles to MT ST Helens National Volcanic Monument on the Spirit Mountain Highway. We crossed the 2,340-foot-long Hoffstadt Creek Bridge, built to replace the original bridge after it was destroyed by a torrent of volcanic mud and rock traveling at speeds of more than 100 mph after the 1980 eruption. As we drove up the highway we could see the devastating effects of the 1980 eruption on the landscape and forests and the recovery efforts taking place with lots of tree plantings. After driving to an elevation of 4,200 feet we arrived at the Johnson Ridge Observatory, named for the volcanologist killed at this site.IMG_1083 IMG_1087 It was a very windy day, one of those days when you can’t keep a hat on and my visor blew across the walkway and was almost gone forever. Even though the wind was a bit of a nuisance, it blows all the clouds away that blocks visibility needed when viewing mountainous areas.

 

 

 

 

At the Johnson Ridge Observatory we saw live seismographs, geologic exhibits, and viewed an excellent movie on the eruption of MT ST Helens on May 18, 1980. The eruption was an incredible explosion with such force that it blew 1,313 feet off the north face of the volcano and blew smoke and ash 80,000 feet into the air. It released a mile wide avalanche that raised Spirit Lake by more than 200 feet and shattered forests like matchsticks. Morning became night in minutes, halting traffic for a hundred miles and covering parts of three states with a fine gray powder. Today MT ST Helens stands at 8,365 feet. IMG_1081 IMG_1086 IMG_1088 IMG_1092

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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We attended two Ranger talks at the Observatory. During one talk the Ranger explained the difference between lava flows at MT ST Helens and those in Hawaii. The lava from ST Helens is a thicker, silt based gray lava whereas the ones in Hawaii are more fluid based and red. He talked about the 1980 eruption and gave demonstrations on how eruptions occur, to the delight of some school children present.

The second Ranger talk focused on how scientists watch for and monitor volcanic activity and predict future eruptions. Two months before the 1980 eruption, scientist noticed puffs of steam and ash, increased seismic activity, as well as a growing bulge on the north side that grew five feet a day. They knew it was a matter of WHEN, not IF, the volcano would erupt and took precautions, however fifty-seven people died during the eruption. Until then, the mountain had been asleep for 123 years.

MT ST Helens last erupted from 2004 to early 2008, leaving a 1,320 foot tall lava dome which is formed from the cooling of lava on the crater floor. The lava during this three and a half year eruption was enough to fill 36,800 Olympic swimming pools and replaced about 7% of the volume lost during the 1980 blast. While the mountain appears quiet, the watching and waiting continues.  IMG_1100 IMG_1095

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

While in the area we drove 45 minutes south to Vancouver, Washington to meet Bill’s friend Robert and his wife Sandy for dinner. Bill and Robert worked together in Florida about 15 years ago. It was nice for Bill to visit with old friends, and nice for me to meet new friends!

June 20, 2014 Port Angeles, Washington

We left the town of Forks and headed northeast on Highway 101 where we passed beautiful Lake Crescent, a 650 foot deep, 12 mile long glacially carved lake that is part of the Olympic National Park. 20140620_110905 The lake is the second deepest in Washington and in order to keep it environmentally friendly, quiet and peaceful, it only allows kayaks, canoes and row boats. We turned onto the Strait of Juan de Fuca Scenic Byway, following the shoreline of the glacial fjord connecting Puget Sound to the Pacific Ocean.  The Strait of Juan de Fuca separates the Olympic Peninsula from Vancouver Island, British Columbia and reaches farther into the cold North Pacific than any other mainland point in the lower 48 states. We arrived at our campground in the Salt Creek Recreation Area.  This was once the location of Camp Hayden, a World War 2 harbor defense military base.  The campground has three tiers of campsites and our site was on the highest tier with a marvelous view of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Crescent Bay, and Vancouver Island, British Columbia.  In the distance we could see snow capped Mt Baker, which looked more like a cloud than a mountain. 20140622_142907           Our first night there we had a cloudy, but still beautiful sunset.20140620_213908 20140620_214007     Our first full day we drove to Port Angeles and caught a ferry over to Victoria, British Columbia.  Port Angeles was a 19th century mill town and today is a bustling harbor with a population of around 19,000.  Murals throughout the town document the town’s history. IMG_0852         We caught the ferry which took us eighteen miles across the Strait of Juan De Fuca to Victoria in Canada. IMG_0836           Both on the way over and on the way back we had magnificent views of snow capped Olympic mountains.  IMG_0811 IMG_0822       On the ferry we saw many people with suitcases, bikes and tennis rackets, going for an overnight adventure.   IMG_0809                   We saw several seaplanes which transport people to and from the city of Vancouver. IMG_0812 Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, has a population of 300,000.  It goes back to colonial days with the first government building erected in 1859.  Even though it is a metropolitan city, it still had a small town feel.  It was clean and felt very safe. At one point we were stopped by a volunteer ambassador who could tell we were tourists and stopped to ask if we were enjoying our visit and had any questions. Since we decided not to take our car on the ferry, we figured the easiest way to see the island was to take the Hop On, Hop Off buses.  The hour and a half tour included the impressive Empress Hotel,IMG_0837           the magnificent Parliament Building,IMG_0835 Chinatown, Fishermen’s Wharf,         and Mile 0 which is the start of Canada’s Highway No. 1 which stretches through all ten provinces of Canada between the Pacific and the Atlantic coasts. IMG_0825           We also saw Craigdarroch Castle as well as a statue of James Cook IMG_0838 IMG_0839               and Queen Victoria.  IMG_0842 IMG_0841 IMG_0833                                   The bus driver stopped at Christ Church Cathedral and gave us time to go inside. IMG_0829 IMG_0832 IMG_0826 IMG_0828                         He pointed out the cornerstone of the church which had been laid by Sir Winston Churchhill. IMG_0830           With the price of our bus ticket we also had access to the water taxis going back and forth in the harbor. IMG_0844         We had a delicious lunch at an Irish Pub and did some geocaching and shopping before catching the ferry home.  We enjoyed the totem poles throughout the port area IMG_0845 IMG_0840               as well as a statue of a girl welcoming her father home from war which was placed in honor of World War 2 veterans.  IMG_0814         The next day we drove to Hurricane Ridge,IMG_0876 elevation 5,242 feet, in Olympic National Park         with some of the most magnificent views of snow capped mountains I have ever seen, IMG_0886 IMG_0883including Mount Olympus with an elevation of 7,980 feet.             IMG_0859                 Of course I had to have my picture taken in the snow with my flip flops. IMG_0863Bill bought a shirt at the gift shop which said “The Mountains Are Calling and I Must Go” IMG_0875which is very appropriate for him since he is drawn to the mountains.  I am drawn to the ocean which is very ironic since I grew up in Virginia and Bill grew up in Florida!  We toured the Visitors Center which you can see in the background in one of the pictures. One interesting thing we learned from the movie there was that the mountains in this area were not formed by volcanic activity as are most of the mountains in the Pacific Northwest, but instead by the moving of tetonic plates which pushed the ocean floor up and formed the mountains.  They are not continuing to grow, yet they are also not eroding as do most mountains. While driving up to Hurricane Ridge we passed a deer along the side of the road, as well as seeing numerous elk and deer at the Visitors Center. IMG_0856 IMG_0879                       Knowing my love of the water, Bill ended the day by finding a beautiful waterfall in the park on the way home.  Madison Falls is a wondrous 60 foot waterfall in a peaceful setting with only a short walk on a paved trail to get there. IMG_0928 IMG_0921 IMG_0912                         Our last day in Salt Creek Recreation Area ended with a glorious sunset.  IMG_0942 IMG_0954 IMG_0991

June 16, 2014 Pacific Beach and Forks, Washington

Once again we awoke to the sound of raindrops on yet another travel day.  We headed up the coast to Pacific Beach, passing several cranberry bogs along the way.  Pacific Beach Washington is a tiny fishing village with a population slightly less than 300.  We stayed at the Pacific Beach State Park with a site overlooking the ocean.  Our first day we walked down to the beach which is a very wide beach.  There were a few people walking on the beach but for the most part it is deserted.  In this part of Washington they allow cars to drive on the beach and the we did drive our car down to one of the beach access points and enjoyed the view.

The next day we drove an hour to the Quinault Rain Forest in Olympic National Forest.  This rain forest is often called “Valley of Rain Forest Giants” because it is home to some of the state’s largest trees.  Here rainfall is measured in feet, not inches!IMG_0792

 

 

 

 

 

After visiting the small Visitors Center we walked across the parking lot to the historic Quinault Lodge which has a beautiful view of the Quinault Lake, a glacier carved lake.  On October 1, 1937 President Franklin Roosevelt had lunch at this lodge and nine months later signed a bill creating Olympic National Park.

We then drove on a 31 mile loop around the Quinault Lake  and Quinault River, stopping at several points along the way.  The Quinault River was very wide with large gravel bars.

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20140619_103341We hiked a short distance to the World’s Largest Sitka Spruce

 

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IMG_0787and drove past several beautiful waterfalls, including Merriman Falls.

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We finished the day by hiking a rather challenging trail to Washington’s largest tree, a 1200 year old Western Red Cedar. IMG_0802 IMG_0804 IMG_0806

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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We were amazed by the epiphytes, which are plants growing upon other plants,20140619_103602 20140619_103609 as well as all the moss, lichens and ferns.

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We also were in awe of the “nurselogs” in which dead and downed trees support new life in the constant eternal cycle of life and death.  IMG_0778 IMG_0783 IMG_0802

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Olympic National Forest is 632,324 acres in size and surrounds Olympic National Park which has over 901,800 acres and was created in 1938 to protect and preserve the forests and herds of native Roosevelt elk. The first people to live in this area were Native Americans who came from Asia by way of Alaska.  Archaeologists estimate they lived here for many centuries before the white men arrived.  Olympic National Park is really three parks in one with its rugged mountainous areas, the 73 mile scenic ocean strip of the Olympic Peninsula which is one of the longest spans of wilderness coast in the lower 48 states, and the lush temperate rain forest which is the only true rain forest in the continental U.S.  The rain forest has been recognized internationally as a Biosphere Reserve and World Heritage Site.  The tree most often associated with the temperate rain forest of North America is the Sitka Spruce.

We had originally planned to stay four days at Pacific Beach, but when we saw all that Olympic National Forest had to offer, we decided to cut short our time in Pacific Beach and head further north to Forks, Washington so we could hike the Hoh Rain Forest before heading even further north as planned.

Fortunately our travel day from Pacific Beach to Forks was sunny and we enjoyed the two hour drive.  After arriving at a private campground and setting up we headed over to the Chamber of Commerce where a very helpful lady filled us in on all there is to know about Forks.  The town of Forks, population 3,500, is best known as the setting for author Stephenie Meyer’s “Twilight” book series and five subsequent movies.  Evidently Twilight fans come to Forks from all over the world to have their pictures taken at different locations mentioned in the book but the funny thing is the only part of Forks actually filmed in the movie was the town sign!  While we were in the Chamber of Commerce several people came in and admitted they were there because of the Twilight book series.  The town was quick to use this to their advantage and along Main Street are many small shops and hotels with the word “Twilight” in the name.

The next day we headed to Hoh Rain Forest, also in Olympic National Forest.  Along the way we had a view of snow capped Mount Olympus. 20140619_10490620140619_105024 How amazing is it to be headed to a rain forest and see snow capped mountains in the distance!  I told you the United States is beautiful!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

The drive from Highway 101 into the park was lengthy but well worth the drive.  We visited the small Visitors Center here which was much like the one at Quinault.  Due to the mild winters, cool summers and up to 12 feet of annual precipitation, the giant trees in this rain forest are some of the most spectacular examples of old growth temperate rain forests in the world. The trees here can grow to be up to 300 feet tall.  We hiked two trails, the Hall of Mosses which led us through an old growth temperate rain forest where the maple trees were draped with moss,

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and the Spruce Trail which led us down to the Hoh River. 20140619_124921 20140619_124735 20140619_124720 The Hoh River is 50 miles long and begins high on glacier capped Mount Olympus and descends 7000 feet to the Pacific Ocean as it is fed by snowmelt and rain along the way.  Hoh is a Native American term meaning “fast moving water”.  Members of the Hoh Indian tribe still lives in the area.  In fact Washington state has more major cities with Native American names than any other state.

We finished the day be doing several geocaches.  20140619_142946

 

 

 

 

 

 

Additional facts about Olympic National Park:

  • 60 named glaciers and many many more small ones
  • 650 archeological sites
  • 130 historical structures
  • 3,000 miles of rivers and streams
  • Butterflies are found in almost all areas of the park with some unique to this area

June 12, 2014 Ilwaco, Washington

We awoke to the sound of showers which is becoming a more frequent occurrence in this part of the Pacific Northwest.  We prefer not to pack and move in the rain, but you do what you have to do on move day.  It was not a steady rain but intermittent showers, so it could have been worse.

This was an especially exciting day because we were finishing our time in Oregon and entering Washington, the Evergreen state.  We passed through Oregon rather quickly in our quest to finish our travels before the cold weather returns in October.  We will continue our travels in central and eastern Oregon in the coming weeks and months, as we return south.

We traveled up Highway 101, also known as the Pacific Coast Byway.  The two lane road became more and more winding as we headed north, with farmland and cattle along the roadside.  We passed through many small villages advertising upcoming chainsaw sculpting contests and rodeos coming to town.  We saw a small lumberman museum but didn’t take the time to stop.  I suffer from motion sickness which doesn’t usually affect me in the RV, but for some reason this road made me feel very nauseous and we had to pull over while I took some Dramamine and waited for my stomach to settle.

We reached the large port town of Astoria, the northernmost Oregon city on Highway 101.  Astoria, the oldest settlement west of the Rockies, dates back to the winter of 1805-1806 when the Lewis and Clark Expedition made camp at nearby Fort Clatsop.  We crossed the four mile long Astoria-Megler Bridge which joins Oregon and Washington and is the longest continuous three-span, through truss bridge in the world.  When it was finished in 1966 it completed Highway 101 and made it an unbroken link between Canada and Mexico.  The Welcome to Washington sign is located about two thirds of the way across the bridge.

We arrived at our destination, Cape Disappointment State Park near Ilwaco, Washington.  Ilwaco is a small fishing village near the mouth of the Columbia River.  This area was named Cape Disappointment by John Meares who was trying to find the mighty Columbia River. After a storm he turned his ship around just north of the cape without finding the Columbia and therefore named the area Cape Disappointment.  The area is far from a disappointment with its stunning ocean views and unspoiled beaches.

IMG_0767 We had a great campsite and certainly enjoyed staying in the park, even though we could not get cell phone service or satellite TV in the park.  It was amazing camping at the location where the Corps of Discovery had their first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean.  Our campground was located in the Cape Disappointment State Park which is also part of the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park.

The park had a nearby Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center and after settling in we stopped by for a visit.  It was a pretty steep walk from the parking lot but we were rewarded with beautiful views as the Center sits on a cliff with views of the Pacific Ocean and nearby Cape Disappointment Lighthouse. IMG_0771

The Center was built here because it was also the site of Fort Canby established in 1875 to protect the mouth of the Columbia River from enemies.  The fort continued to be improved until after World War II and there are still gun batteries visible in what remains of the fort.  At the Interpretive Center we were greeted by enthusiastic, friendly volunteers and enjoyed touring the Center and seeing the movie there.

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Since the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park is located in both Oregon and Washington, the next day we drove back across the bridge to Fort Clatsop in Oregon. This is where Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery ended their 4,000 mile westward journey.

Here they built a fort and

IMG_0751rested during the winter of 1805 and 1806 before their journey home.  At Fort Clatsop the Park Service has a replica of the fort as well and an interpretive center and exhibit hall

IMG_0761with an excellent movie and many interesting exhibits about their journey.   It just so happened that the day we visited was Flag Day and they had a special flag ceremony down at the fort. IMG_0757 IMG_0759 Ranger Larry gave a dramatic retelling of how Francis Scott Key, after watching the bombardment of Fort McHenry during the War of 1812, wrote the poem “The Defence of Fort M’Henry” after which part of the lyrics later became our national anthem.  We then all sang “The Star Spangled Banner” together which was a very moving experience.  Ranger Larry pointed out that without Jefferson’s vision and the bravery of the Corps of Discovery led by Lewis and Clark, we would very likely have been standing on land owned by British Columbia rather than the United States.

While in Astoria we also rode on the historic Riverfront Trolley, a restored 1913 trolley that runs 4 miles along the Columbia River.

IMG_0762 For the big sum of $1 each we got to ride the trolley and listen as the conductor gave us information about the history and attractions in the area.

We also learned that the movie “The Goonies” was filmed in Astoria as well as “Kindergarten Cop”.  The conductor pointed out the elementary school used in the film.

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Some thoughts:

In the Eastern U.S. signs say “Hurricane Evacuation Route”.  In the Pacific Northwest the signs say “Tsunami Evacuation Route”.

In the Pacific Northwest a sign that says “Slide Area” can mean the hillside and rocks are sliding OR the road is sliding.  We saw a road that had slid off the side in our travels.