Category Archives: National Park or Forest

National Park or Forest

June 16, 2015 Rapid City and Custer S.P. South Dakota

While staying at Mount Rushmore we drove to Rapid City, population 70,000, the second largest city in South Dakota.  The town was founded in 1876 by a group of prospectors who had come to the Black Hills in search of gold and named the town after a spring fed creek which passes through it. We took a 90 minute trolley ride tour which included a visit to Dinosaur Park on a hill overlooking the city.  The park has seven life size concrete dinosaur replicas as well as a spectacular view of Rapid City.IMG_0187

Rapid City is known as the “City of Presidents” because of its proximity to Mount Rushmore but also because of a public art project that resulted in 43 life size bronze presidential statues of all past presidents which are located on street corners downtown.  Using a map to guide us we enjoyed finding the statues.  The figures are displayed in different poses and tries to emphasize a unique part of their personality such as Ronald Reagan wearing a cowboy hat. Rapid City was another small western town we have enjoyed on our travels this year.IMG_0199IMG_0200IMG_0194IMG_0196IMG_0189IMG_0190IMG_0201

Another day we wanted to drive back to Custer State Park to continue exploring the rest of the park. At 71,000 acres, it is one of the nation’s largest state parks. We drove towards the park on the Needles Highway through pine and spruce forests with meadows surrounded by rugged IMG_0206IMG_0203IMG_0210IMG_0207granite mountains. The road gets its name from the many needle like granite formations along the highway. The roadway was planned by former South Dakota governor Peter Norbeck who marked the entire course on foot and horseback. With the aid of 150,000 pounds of dynamite, construction was completed in 1922. We passed through three very narrow tunnels.

The State Game Lodge in Custer State Park was the summer White House for President Calvin Coolidge and was visited by Dwight Eisenhower. A really neat time to visit the park would be the last Friday in September when they do the bison roundup. Some of these bison are auctioned off in November with the money going towards operating costs of the park.

Next we drove to Wind Cave National Park. We had driven through a small section of the park on our way to Mount Rushmore and we wanted to continue to explore more of the park and stop by the Visitors Center.

Wind Cave National Park was established in 1903 and is the eighth national park created. It was the first national park set aside to protect a cave. Wind Cave is one of the world’s longest and most complex caves. Currently there are over 143 miles of twisting passageways under only 1.2 square miles of surface area. Close your eyes and visualize what a maze of tunnels that creates deep below the surface of the land! Portions of Wind Cave are believed to be over 300 million years old, making it one of the oldest caves in the world. Barometric wind studies estimate that only five percent of the total cave has been discovered.

Wind Cave is considered sacred and culturally significant to Native Americans who roamed the area for centuries. You could say it was rediscovered in 1881 by Tom and Jesse Bingham when they heard whistling noises coming from the small entrance to the cave.

We enjoyed touring the Visitors Center where they had a movie and many interesting exhibits about the cave.

As we drove around the park we continued to see buffalo and a lot of prairie dogs. We stopped to watch them and take pictures as they played a game with us of now you see us, now you don’t.  The prairie dogs live in large social groups called towns.  The round mound of dirt that surrounds the prairie dog hole keeps rain water from running into the burrow and serves as an observation post to watch for danger.IMG_0216IMG_0219IMG_0222IMG_0228IMG_0225IMG_0229IMG_0233IMG_0237

Tomorrow we leave Mount Rushmore for the Badlands of South Dakota.

June 12, 2015 Mount Rushmore NP, South Dakota

Bill and I had both waited a long time to see Mount Rushmore so the next morning we eagerly made the drive to Mount Rushmore National Park.  While there is no charge to get in, you have to pay $11 to park with the money going to pay for the large parking garage built to accommodate all the tourists. No federal money was used to pay for the garage. The parking pass is good for a year. We were told that the garage will be paid off in 2016 and the trustees will give the garage to the park service.IMG_0153

Mount Rushmore is an amazing place with an Information Center, Visitors Center, three bookstores, a gift shop, sculptor’s studio, two theaters with movies, nature trails and an amphitheater. A Grand View Terrace to view Mount Rushmore is at the end of the Avenue of Flags where flags from all fifty states are displayed. IMG_0142IMG_0147We enjoyed the exhibits and movie and spent time just looking at the faces of Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln. We had lunch at the cafe there and Bill tried the buffalo chili which he said was good.IMG_0136IMG_0140

Between 1927 and 1941, sculptor Gutzon Borglum carved the memorial with the help of over 400 workers. When Borglum died his son Lincoln Borglum supervised the completion. Work stopped in October, 1941 near the beginning of World War II. It was interesting to read that Gutzon Borglum wanted to build a special place to share important pieces of American history so he planned to build a large room which would be carved into the vertical wall of the canyon behind the faces. This room would be called the Hall of Records and would store important documents like the Declaration of Independence, the U.S. Constitution and the Bill of Rights. Work on the Hall of Records began in 1938 but the U.S. government would not approve funding for the addition and workers were only able to carve a doorway and small hallway before Congress stopped the Hall of Records project.IMG_0149IMG_0150

IMG_0154After leaving Mount Rushmore we drove through part of Black Hills National Forest and Custer State Park along the Iron Mountain Road and the Wildlife Loop Road where we encountered “pigtail curves”. Back in Denver we were excited to see buffalo in the distance behind a fence. Little did we know we would see herds of buffalo here. We saw a lot of buffalo and calves.IMG_0157 The buffalo were right by the side of the road and a couple times we had to stop and wait while they crossed the road. The buffalo were shedding their winter coats so they looked especially scruffy.IMG_0169IMG_0163

Today the park is home to as many as 1,450 head of North American bison, also known as buffalo. There were once millions of bison, but by 1900 fewer than 1,000 bison remained on the entire continent. Peter Norbeck, known as the “Father of Custer State Park”, decided to take action to preserve the bison.  In 1914 the park purchased thirty-six bison which grew to 2,500 by the 1940’s. The bison numbers are great enough today to have a roundup each year and some of the bison are auctioned off.IMG_0159IMG_0161IMG_0162IMG_0164IMG_0166IMG_0171IMG_0175IMG_0176

We came across prairie dogs chattering as they popped up from their holes in the ground, deer and a lazy burro.IMG_0180IMG_0178

Later that evening we returned to the Mount Rushmore Amphitheater for the Evening Lighting Ceremony. IMG_0181IMG_0184IMG_20150612_213230After watching a patriotic movie the faces on Mount Rushmore were lighted, we sang the National Anthem and the flag was then lowered. They invited all past and current members of the military service to come down to the stage. The stage was full and each person was asked to give their name and rank. Several of them participated in the folding of the flag.

Some facts about Mount Rushmore:

  • Each face is 60 feet tall. Each eye is 11 feet wide.
  • Washington’s nose is 21 feet long. All the other noses are 20 feet long.
  • Washington’s mouth is 18 feet wide.
  • Washington’s head is as tall as a six story building.
  • Total cost was $989,992.32
  • Main tool was dynamite and the drill was the jackhammer.
  • The rock is Harney Peak Granite.

June 10, 2015 Cheyenne, Wyoming & Wind Cave NP, South Dakota

We left Denver and continued to head toward South Dakota.  Cheyenne, Wyoming was a convenient place for a stopover on the way.  We stayed two nights which gave us a full day to explore Wyoming’s state capitol.IMG_20150610_150743

IMG_20150610_155151Having just been to Denver, Colorado’s state capitol, we were really struck by the difference.  Downtown Cheyenne was quiet with little traffic and few people milling around.  Finding a parking place or slowing down to take pictures was not a problem.  It looked like any small western city.  We noticed several statues of eight foot tall boots located around the city. Our favorite boot was one with the capitol painted on it.  The boots were created for a fundraiser for the Cheyenne Depot Museum in 2004.  Nineteen boots were painted and decorated by local artists and auctioned off.  We enjoyed finding them as we toured the town.IMG_20150610_152901IMG_20150610_151001

IMG_0097We had planned on taking the route through Lusk, Wyoming to cross over into South Dakota. All the rain and flooding changed our plans. The major bridge in Lusk had been washed out and roads were closed with flash flood warnings still in effect so we took a route across the plains of Nebraska. We crossed mile after mile of farmland and open plains. As we neared the South Dakota line we began to see some interesting rock formations in Nebraska and the weather deteriorated with rain and fog quickly moving in making visibility poor. I wasn’t able to get a picture of the South Dakota welcome sign because of the rain and fog. Rats!! It was a nice one with a picture of Mount Rushmore.IMG_0099IMG_20150611_111712IMG_0103

Once in South Dakota we traveled through a part of Wind Cave National Park. IMG_0108We stopped along the side of the road to look at some buffalo right by the car.  Some were busy drinking from a small mud puddle. With the windows open we could hear them slurping and snorting as they drank.IMG_0127IMG_0118IMG_0121IMG_0122IMG_0132IMG_0135

After a long seven and a half hour drive we arrived at a campground in Hill City, about fifteen  minutes from Mount Rushmore. We stayed at a nice private campground and enjoyed watching the birds who often gathered at the bird feeder outside our door.

Some facts about Cheyenne:

  • With a population of 62,400, it is still the most populous city in Wyoming.
  • It is named for the Cheyenne nation, one of the Great Plains Tribes.
  • It began in 1867 during the construction of the Union Pacific Railroad and as a headquarters for cavalry troops protecting pioneers and railroad workers. Originally called Fort Russell and later renamed F. E. Warren Air Force Base, it is one of the nation’s oldest continually active installations.
  • Back in the mid 19th century it was overrun with gamblers, cowboys and speculators, earning it the name “Hell on Wheels”. By 1869 it had been cleaned up and became the capitol in 1890 when Wyoming became the 44th state.
  • Nellie Tayloe Ross, the first woman governor in the country is from Cheyenne.
  • Wild Bill Hickok and sportscaster Curt Gowdy are from Cheyenne. We were unable to get a reservation at Curt Gowdy State Park because it was full.

June 5, 2015 Denver, Colorado

Bill and I calculated that since we were at the Grand Canyon the beginning of May we have had rain everyday. What a crazy spring this has been weather wise and the crazy weather continued to follow us through Colorado.IMG_20150607_120939
We drove from Colorado Springs north to a state park campground just outside of Denver. We have been very happy with the Colorado state parks, and this campground, Cherry Creek State Park, was another winner. We had a large pull through site with full hookup and a lot of green space between each site. Everyday we had rabbits playing around the RV.
The first day the weather service was calling for severe weather so we decided to stay home. The day was spent listening to tornado sirens and the sound of heavy rain and thunder. The tornado siren would sound and after the storm passed the all clear siren would sound. In a matter of minutes another storm would roll in and the tornado siren would sound again. This cycle was repeated several times throughout the day. We listened to continuous coverage on the local TV station and Bill listened to ham radio operators helping the sheriff departments on his ham radio. We never had to evacuate the RV, but we were ready just in case.IMG_20150607_114039IMG_20150606_134014
The next day brought sunny blue skies in the morning but the forecast called for severe storms during the afternoon. We made a quick drive on the Lariat Loop Scenic and Historic Byway. Due to the weather forecast we did not drive the entire loop but we saw some beautiful views of snow capped mountains and stopped by to visit the gravesite of William F. Cody, known as Buffalo Bill. The museum and gravesite is located in Lookout Mountain Park. The area has great views of the plains and Rockies, however our view was limited due to the clouds quickly rolling in. As we made the short walk to the gravesite, thunder rumbled in the distance. Buffalo Bill earned his nickname because of his skill as a buffalo hunter and he traveled the world with his Buffalo Bill Wild West shows.
On the way home we passed through some charming little western towns with tall tree covered rock cliff walls and streams with rushing water from recent rains along the roadway. We noticed a Buffalo Overlook area on the map and were surprised when the overlook was nothing more than a pull over on busy Interstate 70. It seemed like a pretty dangerous area to encourage people to stop, but we pulled over and got out and were rewarded with a herd of buffalo (American Bison), including some babies nuzzling their mothers.IMG_20150606_143327IMG_20150606_143312IMG_20150606_143113IMG_20150606_143055IMG_20150606_142821
The next day we took advantage of it being a Sunday with less traffic and drove into downtown Denver. We had originally planned to go on Monday so we could tour the U.S. Mint in Denver. When we went online Friday to reserve a tour, we found out all tours were full for at least the next 30 days. Since they give six tours a day Monday thru Thursday, that is pretty amazing. We put the Mint tour on our list to do on our next visit to Denver.IMG_20150607_114745IMG_20150607_115923
While downtown we drove by the Mint and the capitol building. We spent some time driving around just getting a feel for the city. IMG_20150607_120405IMG_20150607_120422IMG_20150607_120432IMG_20150607_122119We ended with a stop at the Sports Authority Field at Mile High, home of the Denver Broncos. We made it home before the first of two thunderstorms rolled through the area.IMG_20150607_123026IMG_20150607_123108
We saved Rocky Mountain National Park for Monday, our last day in the area, when the weather forecast called for the best weather. The day turned out to be beautiful with no afternoon thunderstorms, the first day without rain in a long time! IMG_20150608_105457This park was created in 1915, the nation’s 10th national park, and they are celebrating their centennial this year. The park is so large there are several visitors centers and we stopped by three of them. We drove the Trail Ridge Road to the Alpine Visitors Center, at one point the road took us atop the alpine tundra to an elevation of 12,183 feet. The road is the highest continuous paved highway in the U.S. Because the IMG_20150608_131527IMG_20150608_130927deepest, wettest snow occurs in the spring, snow plow operators work hard to have the road open each year by Memorial Day. Tall poles along the side of the road is the only way the snow plow operators know where the edges of IMG_20150608_121728the road are. Even in June the road can occasionally be closed due to snow or ice. The views of the Rocky Mountains along the Trail Ridge Road were breathtaking!IMG_20150608_113301IMG_20150608_114830IMG_20150608_115721IMG_20150608_115818IMG_20150608_120234IMG_20150608_134908
We really enjoyed our time in Denver. The area is prettier than Colorado Springs due to more beautiful views of snow capped mountains. Huge pot holes continued to be a problem. Colorado definitely has more pot holes than any other state! Denver traffic can be challenging. They do not have HOV lanes so the morning and afternoon commuter traffic is pretty bad! Regardless of the traffic and bad roads, we will add Denver to our list of places we would like to visit again.

May 24, 2015 Albuquerque, New Mexico

Sunday we made the short drive to Old Town Albuquerque.  This area was not as large as Old Town Santa Fe and was mainly restaurants and souvenir shops.  Both Old Towns had a central Plaza where tourists seemed to gather to listen to live music or magic shows.  In both Old Town Santa Fe and Old Town Albuquerque we saw chilies hanging to dry.  Chilies are a staple in IMG_20150524_123529IMG_20150524_122828

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Chilies hanging everywhere
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San Felipe De Neri, oldest church in Albuquerque, serving since 1706

IMG_20150524_131937almost every southwest dish.  Bill enjoyed chatting with two men who served in World War II as Navajo Code Talkers.  They were signing copies of their book.  During World War II the Japanese were able to intercept radio military communications so Navajos spoke their own code in the Navajo language and the Japanese were unable to break the code.

Saturday while on the way to Santa Fe we stopped by the Sandia Peaks Aerial Tram.  Since it was a Saturday and a holiday weekend there was a three hour wait to ride the tram so we decided to return Tuesday.  On Tuesday there was barely a line and we were able to get on the next tram.  We don’t know why they call this a tram since it seems much more like a gondola to us.  It is advertised as the world’s longest single span aerial tramway.  We rode 2.7 miles across deep canyons with rocky walls to the top of the Sandia Peak at an elevation of 10,400 feet.  It was much colder at that elevation and we had a view of 11,000 square miles, including Albuquerque in the distance.  This is a double reversible passenger aerial tramway so we passed another tram both going up and coming down.IMG_20150526_105611IMG_20150526_105759IMG_20150526_113729PANO_20150526_112314IMG_20150526_110448IMG_20150526_112925IMG_20150526_114440IMG_20150526_115432IMG_20150526_115826

Also on Tuesday we drove to Petroglyph National Monument.  Here they have the world’s largest accessible collection of prehistoric rock art.  There are more than 17,000 ancient petroglyphs carved into the remnants of boulders of dormant volcanoes by Native American and Spanish settlers 400 to 700 years ago.  The monument was established in 1990 to protect the petroglyphs and surrounding area.  No, we did not find all 17,000 petroglyphs, but Bill did take pictures of a few.IMG_20150526_132658IMG_20150526_135517IMG_20150526_135829IMG_20150526_140657IMG_20150526_141240IMG_20150526_135900

May 20, 2015 Los Alamos, New Mexico

We left Mancos, Colorado and drove five hours to White Rock, New Mexico just outside of Los Alamos.  There is plenty of nothing between Mancos and White Rock in the way of towns, but the scenery was beautiful.  Southwest Colorado looks very much like New Mexico.  The snow capped Jemez Mountains provided a gorgeous backdrop to the towering red rock formations in northern New Mexico.IMG_20150519_143826IMG_20150519_143837IMG_20150519_144041IMG_20150519_144517

We arrived at the White Rock RV Park which is located next to the White Rock Visitors Center. The park only provides electrical hookups, but since we had originally planned on dry camping in the area and the nights were cold, we were very thankful for the electricity.

We had two main reasons for visiting this area.  One reason was to visit Bandelier National Monument.  Established in 1916, this park is one of the National Park Service’s oldest sites.  Evidence of Ancestral Pueblo people is shown by petroglyphs, multi-story adobe dwellings and dwellings in the rock cliffs going back over 11,000 years.  The park is made up of over 33,000 acres of canyons and mesas.  The Rio Grande River, a mere trickle now, flowed nearby.  To reach the park entrance you have to drive up an elevation change of 1,000 feet and then down 800 feet to the visitor center.IMG_20150520_123526

We first stopped by the Visitors Center in Frijoles Canyon to see a movie about the park.  They had a large area of exhibits about the Pueblo people.  We noticed on the time lines they had BCE or CE after the dates.  I walked over and asked one of the rangers about the initials.  He told us the initials BCE stood for Before Common Era and CE stood for Common Era and those initials now took the place of BC and AD.  Bill and I both found that troubling and will make a point from now on to see what appears on other park displays around the country.

We walked the main loop trail that took us past the remains of ancient homes called the Tyuonyi Village.  IMG_20150520_134508IMG_20150520_135632IMG_20150520_135647IMG_20150520_141119Starting in approximately 1150 AD, the Ancestral Pueblo people began to build homes in this area, the Pajarito Plateau. The interesting walk included walking up and down stone steps through narrow passages which led us to cliff homes built into the rock face.  IMG_20150520_141219We could climb ladders into the homes like the Pueblo did thousands of years ago.  By the mid 1500’s the Ancestral Pueblo deserted these homes and moved further south along the Rio Grande. One thing we especially noticed was the pumice appearance of the rocks in the cliff face.IMG_20150520_140823IMG_20150520_140854IMG_20150520_141440IMG_20150520_141447

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This is a back wall of a three story high adobe dwelling

By the way, the park is named for Adolph Bandelier, an anthropologist who studied and explored much of the southwest.

Our second reason for visiting the area was to learn more about the Manhattan Project.  It was in Los Alamos that some top scientists and engineers, led by J. Robert Oppenheimer, perfected new nuclear technologies in World War II that led to the world’s first atomic bombs.IMG_20150521_160636

Formerly the Los Alamos Ranch School, established in 1917 and closed in 1943, the buildings and roads from the school were just the right remote location for the United States Government’s Project Y of the top secret Manhattan Project.  “One way the Los Alamos school differed from other health schools at the time was its integration with Boy Scouts. Boys in the school belonged to Los Alamos Troop 22, the first mounted scout troop in the country and now one of the nation’s oldest continuous troops.” see History of the Los Alamos Ranch SchoolIMG_20150521_120129IMG_20150521_115616

We made the short drive from our campsite at White Rock up another 1,000 feet in elevation to the mesas of Los Alamos and first toured the Los Alamos Historical Museum with several rooms of exhibits and artifacts of Los Alamos from the times of the Ancestral Pueblo to the Manhattan Project, with emphasis on the latter.  IMG_20150520_154001IMG_20150521_122204We then drove to the nearby Bradbury Science Museum, a magnificent and impressive museum with movies and over 40 interactive exhibits on the Manhattan Project and the ongoing science and research of Los Alamos National Laboratory. IMG_20150521_153706There were three main galleries focusing on Defense, Research and History.  In the Defense gallery they had models of Little Boy and Fat Man, the first nuclear bombs dropped on Japan that ended World War II.  IMG_20150521_152007IMG_20150521_152042IMG_20150521_151014A movie told us about the Los Alamos National Laboratory and its current mission to maintain the country’s aging weapons without nuclear testing.  In the History section of the museum we saw an excellent movie about the Manhattan Project and Los Alamos from 1942 to 1945 that showed us what life was like back then.IMG_20150521_151503

We have visited many museums over the years and almost all of them have charged an admission.  Both the Los Alamos Historical Museum and the Bradbury Science Museum were free of charge.  The Bradbury Science Museum is funded by the Department of Energy, so I guess we are paying admission in a round about way!

Located today in Los Alamos is the Los Alamos National Laboratory.  The facility is called one of the premier scientific institutions in the world.  It has an annual budget exceeding $2 billion, has 2,100 individual facilities across 38 square miles of Los Alamos, and employs 11,000 people.  The Lab is operated for the U.S. Department of Energy by Los Alamos National Security.  The core mission of the Laboratory is national security in regard to ensuring the safety and reliability of nuclear deterrent, reduce the proliferation of weapons of mass destruction and to counter terrorism.

There are no tours of the Laboratory and security around the facility is tight.  When we were driving from Bandelier National Monument back to our campsite the road took us through land owned by the Lab.  As we were exiting the area we had to go through a checkpoint where Bill had to show his driver’s license and explain where we were going.  The guard then said, “Do you vouch?” Bill said, “What?????” The guard then said, “Do you vouch for your passenger?” Strange.  Why didn’t he just ask for my driver’s license too!

We enjoyed our time in the White Rock/Los Alamos area.  We found the drivers to be especially courteous and the people friendly.  We loved our campsite where we could look out the windows at snow capped mountains.  The weather was chilly during the day and cold at night.  During our time there we had some very heavy rain and a few thunderstorms, one of which presented us with a gorgeous rainbow.PANO_20150521_192044

May 14, 2015 Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado

We left Gallup and made the long drive to Mancos, passing from New Mexico into Arizona and then into Colorado.  IMG_20150514_115208We stopped at the Four Corners Monument which is owned and managed by Native Americans since it is on their land.  They charge a $5.00 fee per person to enter the area.IMG_20150514_133410

Four Corners is the only place in the United States where four states meet; Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Colorado.  There is a concrete memorial at the site, provided by the Bureau of Indian Affairs, with the seal of each of the four states as well as their state flags.  This site is also the boundary between two Native American governments, the Navajo Nation and the Mountain Ute Tribe Reservation.  Navajo and Ute artists have items on display.IMG_20150514_134707

One interesting plaque states that the first surveyor determined the location of the four corners.  Later a second surveyor determined the location was over 1800 feet off and wanted to change the four corners location.  A joint resolution by Congress in 1908 to move the monument was vetoed by President Theodore Roosevelt and a lawsuit filed in 1919 also failed.  “In surveying, monuments rule”.  (Quote from National Geodetic Survey organization). The monument disc has been at that location for a century and a quarter and all parties have accepted it.IMG_20150514_135819IMG_20150514_140109

We left Four Corners Monument and headed to our campground at Mancos.  The campground was fairly deserted and not long after we arrived it began to rain.  For the next two days we had rain, thunder, lightning and hail.  We used the time to make some summer reservations and work on the blog. IMG_20150515_191328 We did have a nice view out our front window of Point Lookout located in the national park.IMG_20150517_104326

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La Planta Mountains, Colorado

Our last day in Mancos the sun was shining and we were able to visit Mesa Verde National Park, our main reason for coming to Mancos.  Our campground was conveniently located across from to the entrance to the park.IMG_20150517_110223

After stopping by the Visitors Center we began the 20 mile drive into the park.  This national park was created in 1906 for the purpose of preserving the archaeological heritage of the Ancestral Pueblo people and is the only national park with such a purpose.  The park includes over 4,500 archaeological sites of which 600 are cliff dwellings and is a World Heritage Site.IMG_20150517_110940

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Cliff Palace

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Spruce Tree House

The Ancestral Pueblo people made this area their home for over 700 years from 550 AD to 1300 AD.  From 1200 to 1300 AD the Pueblo people began to build their villages beneath overhanging cliffs.  Their main construction material was sandstone that they shaped into rectangular blocks about the size of a loaf of bread.  Mortar between the blocks was a mixture of dirt and water.  Around 1300 AD they abandoned this area.  The reason is a mystery though historians suspect a severe prolonged drought forced them to leave.  We are fortunate to be able to see the remains of these cliff dwellings today.

The park has an excellent movie about the Pueblo people and many rooms of exhibits, displays and artifacts.

May 11, 2015 Petrified Forest and Painted Desert, Arizona

We left Winslow and made the short drive to Holbrook, Arizona.  We had heard about a gift shop right near the South entrance to Petrified Forest National Park that had free dry camping or electric RV sites for $10.00.  We got there early enough to get one of their electric sites and after getting the RV all settled we drove our car into the park.IMG_20150511_134640

During the Triassic period over 200 million years ago, northeastern Arizona was located near the equator where the country of Panama is today.  This region was located on the southwestern edge of the earth’s largest existing land mass, Pangaea.  The tropical climate and environment was very different from what you find in this part of Arizona today.  After the super continent broke apart into today’s continents, Arizona was located in a place with the dry, arid environment we know today.  Fossils and beautiful petrified wood which are evidence of the environmental changes are found in the Petrified Forest National Park.

During the tropical time period, rivers and streams flowed through the area and in this lush tropical landscape trees up to ten feet in diameter and over two hundred feet tall grew.  Over time the trees died or were knocked down and carried by wind and water downstream.  Along the way branches broke off and tree trunks came to rest on river banks.  Most decomposed and disappeared but some of the trees were petrified.  The logs were buried in sediment, ash from volcanoes was carried by the wind and settled in the sediment.  This solution filled the cells of the logs, crystallizing as mineral quartz.  Iron and other minerals combined with the quartz during the petrification process creating brilliant rainbow colors.

About 60 million years ago the region was uplifted by earthquakes and tectonic movement and became part of the huge Colorado Plateau.  During this movement petrified logs were exposed.  Erosion today continues to wear away the land and expose more logs, while freezing and thawing over time break down the already exposed logs.IMG_20150511_171033

While petrified wood is found in every state and many countries, this is the largest and best preserved concentration of petrified wood in the United States.  There are signs throughout the park warning people not to remove any wood from the park, including the threat of prosecution if you do so.  Before the National Park Service took over the park many people came in and removed many logs, including digging for logs, crystals and gems.  We saw where much of the same vandalism had occurred at the Hopi dwellings at Homolovi State Park near Winslow.  Another sad example of this was at an area in Petrified Forest National Park called “Crystal Forest”.  They had a nice paved walkway that led among the petrified logs.  A sign said at one time the logs glistened in the sunlight with amethyst and quartz crystals.  But no more since vandals removed almost all the crystals from the logs.IMG_20150511_145804IMG_20150511_145755IMG_20150511_171217

Paleontologists have studied fossils in the park since the 1920’s, finding one of North America’s earliest dinosaur fossils.

While in the park we stopped by the Visitors Center where they had a large area with paved walkways through the largest area of petrified wood.  I took Bill’s picture beside one log known as ” Old Faithful”, the most massive log in the park.IMG_20150511_145054IMG_20150511_144628IMG_20150511_150857

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These look like teepees

We drove part of a 28 mile road through the park with beautiful views of the Painted Desert, stopping at various viewpoints along the way.IMG_20150511_164719IMG_20150511_163925IMG_20150511_163831IMG_20150511_162145

When we arrived back at the gift shop, quite a few campers had joined us for the night.

The next morning we headed to our next stop, Gallup, New Mexico.  We chose the route that took us through the Petrified Forest National Park and we were able to complete the rest of the 28 mile drive which took us through more of the Painted Desert.  The colors were beautiful, with colors coming from bands of sediments deposited during the Triassic period millions of years ago.  The effects of millions of years of erosion, earthquakes and uplifting was evident.IMG_20150512_133338IMG_20150512_132054

Such an incredibly beautiful place!

May 5, 2015 Grand Canyon National Park, Part 4

We continued to explore more areas of the park.  It is a huge park with so much to see.  We rode the shuttle bus to the western most point of the park which is only accessible by shuttle bus.  Our first stop was Hermit’s Rest.  In the early 1900’s a French Canadian took up residence in the canyon for twenty years and became known as “the hermit of the Grand Canyon “.  He ended up being a valuable source of information and one of the area’s primary guides.  Hermit’s Rest is named in his honor.  The building is one of seven in the park designed by southwestern architect Mary Jane Colter.  She is known for her Native American architecture and use of materials from the area.IMG_20150505_152001IMG_20150505_152414IMG_20150505_143648IMG_20150505_152759

We hiked part of the way along the Rim Trail and found a few geocaches before hopping back on the shuttle bus.  We were very impressed with the park shuttle bus service during our time in the park.  The bus drivers were friendly and helpful and the buses punctually arrived at convenient stops every 10 to 15 minutes.  Considering it was sometimes standing room only on the buses, they were well utilized by tourists visiting the park.IMG_20150505_152827IMG_20150505_155307IMG_20150505_155318IMG_20150505_155645IMG_20150505_161340IMG_20150505_161550IMG_20150505_161656IMG_20150505_172719IMG_20150505_175119

We stopped at Powell’s Point which is named after Major John Wesley Powell, the first explorer to journey down the entire length of the canyon on the Colorado River in 1869.  This feat is even more amazing considering he lost an arm during the Civil War.  He began the journey with nine men and four wooden boats.  Several months later he completed the trip with five men and one boat.  Several men had deserted the group along the way and were never heard from again and four of the boats had broken up.  Powell made a second trip in 1872.  There is a large monument to Powell and his men at Powell Point.IMG_20150505_181902IMG_20150505_181724

I think the western viewpoints are among the prettiest in the park and we had great views of the Colorado River from the rim.  The Colorado River is one of the only rivers in the world that classifies its rapids on a scale of 1 to 10 instead of 1 to 6 like other rivers.  There are many rapids in this part of the Colorado River with the Lava Rapid being the highest rated commercially run rapid in North America.  The majority of the rapids in the Grand Canyon are caused by debris that is funneled into the river from side canyons.

Another day we drove to the eastern end of the Grand Canyon.  Shuttle bus service does not extend this far.  Along the way we saw a large male elk feeding alongside the road and several other elk close by.  IMG_20150506_135250At the eastern end we visited the Desert View Watchtower, another Mary Colter design and one of the most prominent architectural features in the park.  Built in 1932, it is modeled after ancient Pueblo watchtowers found in the Four Corners region.  The tower is 70 feet tall and since it is the highest point in the South Rim, it provides stunning 360 degree views.  The inside of the tower was amazing with a staircase climbing to the top and walls displaying petroglyphs and murals by a Hopi artist and crafts by local Hopi artisans.IMG_20150506_150228IMG_20150506_144705IMG_20150506_143218IMG_20150506_142701

On the way back from the Desert Tower we stopped at several rim viewpoints.  Here are some pictures from the Grandview Point including a video.

use this if you don’t see the above video “https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoXj2VUueks&feature=youtu.be”

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On our last day in the park we hiked three miles with an elevation drop of 500 feet into the canyon on the Bright Angel Trail.  We had really hoped to do more hiking and biking while at the Grand Canyon, but we both had colds/allergies that lingered for over two weeks, and with the 7,000 foot altitude, we were just not up to it.  But by the last day we were feeling better and were determined to hike a little of the famous trail.  The day was a little cool and windy but had bright blue skies.  The trail is great and the same one is used to take visitors down by mule.  The hike down was fairly easy but the hike back up took twice as long.  We passed two really cool tunnels.  I loved the camaraderie of the people hiking the trail of all ages and fitness levels.  People greeted each other in passing and often asked how far they were hiking or if they had returned from hiking to the river.  We recognized those planning to hike to the river and back since they had large backpacks with supplies.  There were signs warning hikers not to attempt to hike down and back in one day due to the strenuous nature of the hike.  It usually takes half a day to hike to the bottom and a full day to hike back up.IMG_20150507_114638IMG_20150507_115730IMG_20150507_124649IMG_20150507_125323IMG_20150507_131548

Our ten days went by much too quickly and the park is on our list of places to return to someday.

May 1, 2015 Grand Canyon National Park, Part 3

Here are the rest of the helicopter ride pictures.

We were able to see parts of the Grand Canyon from the helicopter that we would not have been able to see from the rim level.  Bill was able to get some amazing pictures from the window of the helicopter in spite of a glare from the sun.IMG_0040IMG_0047IMG_0048IMG_0049IMG_0055

As we flew back towards the airport the song “Drops of Jupiter” played in our headsets.  This was such an amazing experience for both of us and one we will never forget.  We can’t wait to take another helicopter ride!IMG_0063IMG_0067IMG_0074IMG_0079IMG_0080IMG_0087IMG_0090IMG_0091