Category Archives: Hiking

hiking

Bandon, OR SEPT 9, 2018

We decided to leave Florence two days early because in our sightseeing travels we stumbled across a really great place to camp right near the beach. The price was certainly right at $12.50 a night with our America the Beautiful senior pass. IMG_4010

Horsfall Beach Campground, a national recreation area campground, was a great place with tall sand dunes. Only problem was they blocked the view of the ocean. We didn’t mind too much since great views of the beach was easily accessible just a short walk from our door. It is also a favorite place for ATV enthusiasts who enjoy racing up and down the dunes. IMG_20180907_142458IMG_3994IMG_3995IMG_3998IMG_4004

While we were there we drove thirty miles to the Dean Creek Elk Viewing Area to see beautiful elk grazing in the meadows. IMG_4011IMG_4017IMG_4035IMG_4015IMG_4016

We certainly enjoyed our two days camping near the sand dunes!

On Sunday we moved further south to Bullards Beach State Park in Bandon, Oregon. We crossed over the beautiful Conde McCullough Memorial Bridge, built in 1936 and once the longest bridge along the coast. We can certainly see why Highway 101 is also called “The Pacific Coast Scenic Byway”. IMG_4045

We were last at Bullards Beach in 2014 and we enjoyed exploring the Bandon area once again. Located in the state park is Coquille River Lighthouse built in 1896.  Located adjacent to the river and lighthouse, it is only forty feet tall and was last operable in 1939. IMG_4053IMG_4047IMG_4055

We enjoyed visiting Old Town Bandon again where Bill returned to the same Bandon Fish Market from 2014 and had some fish and chips. Back in 2014 there was a wonderful bakery owned by an elderly couple and I was really looking forward to going back there. Sadly, it is now out of business. IMG_4052IMG_0614

Bandon is known as the “Cranberry Capital of Oregon” and its main export is cranberries. There is an Ocean Spray plant in Bandon  that receives, cleans and ships from 300,000 to 400,000 pounds of cranberries per day during the peak of the harvest season which is September through November. One interesting tidbit is that when some of the workers work in the bogs they walk on stilts to keep from crushing the berries. The whole process of planting to harvesting is quite fascinating but too detailed to go into on the blog.  We remembered seeing the cranberry bogs last time we were here in June, 2014 and they looked like this. IMG_0615

Don’t know whether it is the very dry weather or time of year, but this time they looked like this. IMG_4097

The beaches here are very popular with rock-hounds since they are strewn with agates, jasper and other semiprecious stones.  In recent years shifting sands have revealed the remains of sunken ships. More than hundred ships, including a 1918 steamship, have shipwrecked in this area.  In fact this area is known as the “Storm Watching Capital of the World”. The beaches with their amazing rock formation sometimes experience winds at hurricane force speed, hurtling sprays of water upon the rocks and shore, sometimes 200 yards straight up.  We could see the power of the ocean with the huge amount of driftwood that lay on the beaches. We read an article where a woman described how people go to the beach and build forts and structures out of the driftwood to be enjoyed during the spring, summer and fall, knowing it will all be destroyed by the winter storms. IMG_4051

One day we drove the scenic Beach Loop Drive, stopping at one of our favorite places we remembered from our last visit called Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint. Here you can see a rock in the shape of a woman’s face. IMG_4068There is a legend to go with Face Rock which was first told by Old Indian Mary, a member of the Coquille Native American tribe.  Legend has it that Seatka, an evil spirit of the ocean, caused all the storms that blew up and down the coast. If Seatka could cause a person to gaze into his eyes, he would possess their soul forever. Chief Siskiyou and his tribe came to the ocean to feast on the great quantities of seafood. His daughter, Princess Ewauna, failed to heed her father’s warning to stay away from the sea.  Seatka captured her and carried her away. She turned her face away so he would not possess her soul and she turned to rock, with her face forever turned northward toward the moon. If you look closely at the picture you can see her face turned with her hair to the left and her nose and mouth visible to the right. IMG_4060

Speaking of Native American legends, we read that the town had almost been destroyed twice by fire, once in 1914 and 1936.  The second fire in 1936 devastated the town, destroying the entire business district and most of the residences. They do not know how the fires started, but the surrounding shrubs, dead leaves and trees quickly fueled the fire.  The people headed to the nearby beaches to escape the fire, with some people burying themselves in the sand to escape the flames. Legend has it when the white men took the land from the Native Americans, they put a curse on the town and that is why the town has almost been destroyed twice. IMG_4059IMG_4061IMG_4062IMG_406320180911_150020

Another day we drove to Cape Blanco Lighthouse which is the most western point in Oregon. This lighthouse built in 1870 is still an operational lighthouse and is the oldest operating lighthouse in Oregon. It is 256 feet high and can be seen for more than twenty miles out to sea.  IMG_4070IMG_4072IMG_4073IMG_4074IMG_4075IMG_4078

Next we drove to Port Orford which is geographically the westernmost incorporated city in the contiguous United States.  Established in 1851, it is the oldest platted town site on the Oregon coast. By the time we got to Port Orford the sea mist was rapidly moving in and we were unable to get good pictures.

Next up: Brookings, Oregon, our last stop in Oregon before returning to California.

Central OR Coast, Part 2, AUG 24, 2018

Continuing with our time in Yachats at the Tillicum Beach Campground, we were relieved to finally have the smoky haze gone and see sunshine and clear skies. We drove seven miles south to the Cape Perpetua Headland which at 800 feet is the highest point accessible by car on the Oregon coast.  It was a fairly clear day and there were beautiful views extending 37 miles along the Oregon coastline. Captain James Cook first sighted the Headland in 1778 and named it after Saint Perpetua. 20180824_140451IMG_20180824_141448

In 1933 President Franklin D. Roosevelt formed the Civilian Conservation Corps and Cape Perpetua was a base camp.  The CCC’s built a stone structure which we were able to stand in at the overlook. They chose to build this structure here because of the magnificent views. The stone structure served as a lookout for enemy ships and planes during WWII. IMG_3822IMG_20180824_141755-EFFECTS

One day we were out geocaching and whale watching and stopped to pick some blackberries.  In a short time we had enough for a cobbler. Oregon produces nearly 100% of the nation’s commercial blackberries, black raspberries and boysenberries. They also grow more than 70 million pounds of blueberries a year. 20180824_15491820180824_154949

We spent quite a bit of time stopping at viewpoints looking for whales, often with much success. IMG_20180824_155933IMG_3825IMG_392920180825_161412IMG_3931

One day we took chairs and sat at a viewpoint watching and waiting. As you can see from this picture, it was very chilly.  20180825_133906

We could see whale watching tour boats circling around which meant whales were close by. It takes time and patience when watching for them. IMG_3875IMG_3921

Their pattern is usually they surface and blow or spout to replenish their oxygen supply.  The number of blows depends on how many minutes they have been down, one blow for every minute down. The spout or blow shoots nearly twelve feet high, expelling 400 liters of air in a single blast. They then dive below the surface for three to five minutes and swim 300 to 400 yards. They then come up for another series of blows. IMG_3937

If they are frightened or sense danger they may stay down for 30 minutes. Sometimes they dive and can reappear a quarter of a mile away, so you really have to have a keen eye as you search the horizon. Some whales “spyhop” which means they lift their heads above the surface of the water to get a better view of their surroundings and spy on local whale watching tour boats. Whales have the largest brain of any animal on earth and they are very intelligent and curious. Those whales sure are quick which makes it really hard to get a good picture! IMG_3877-ANIMATIONIMG_3887-ANIMATION

the whales pass twice a year while migrating north in the early spring and south in early winter. Those are the best time to see the whales but there are some resident gray whales who hang out in this area year round, feeding close to shore.  There are volunteers at 24 viewpoints along the coast from Ilwaco, Washington to Crescent City, California to answer questions and help visitors spot whales. IMG_3938-ANIMATION

Our last day in the area we drove north to Cape Foulweather which was discovered by Captain James Cook in 1778.  The weather was particularly stormy the day Cook arrived with winds of 100 MPH so he named the area Cape Foulweather.  Winds of 100 MPH are not uncommon here during storms. 20180825_14181120180825_141746

This area is the first geographic location named on his voyage to the north Pacific coast.  Captain Cook’s accounts of this voyage were published and aroused world wide interest which was followed by the fur trade. The views here are stunning. IMG_393620180825_143432

BYE! IMG_3828

Next up: Florence, OR and huge sand dunes

Central OR Coast Part 1, AUG 21, 2018

After two and a half months in Washington state it was time to continue south back into Oregon. We really hated to leave gorgeous South Beach and our campsite overlooking the ocean. As we pulled out early in the morning there was already someone waiting to grab the site.

We headed south down highway 101.  We spent one night at the Elks Lodge in Hoquiam, WA and the next morning we crossed the Astoria-Megler Bridge which spans the Columbia River. It is the longest continuous truss bridge in North America. In the middle of the bridge is the state line between Washington and Oregon. And just like that, we were back in Oregon!  20180819_111436(0)20180819_112009

Unfortunately it was a foggy morning and we were unable to get good pictures of the bridge or view from the bridge of Astoria. 20180819_11184720180819_111911

We stopped in Seaside for a two night stay and then drove to Tillicum Beach Campground located in the Siuslaw National Forest for a five night stay.  

IMG_3584

US Highway 101 on the Oregon Coast

Along the way we passed the 45th Parallel, the halfway point between the Equator and the North Pole. We were last at the Tillicum campground in June 2014. Our view of the ocean here wasn’t quite as nice as South Beach, but we could see the water and hear the waves crashing.

Tillicum National Forest campground is located just a few miles from the tiny town of Yachats, pop 700. Our first couple days there the sky was hazy and smoky from the Canadian wildfires and we were under an air quality alert. We drove around the beach at Yachats but it was hard to get any pictures through the haze.

We definitely prefer the Oregon coast over the Washington coast. The views driving down the coast are better, the beaches are sandy rather than rocky and the beaches are much more accessible. The beach at the Tillicum campground could be easily reached by walking down some steps. IMG_3760

Even though the haze was still in the area the next day we drove north to see two lighthouses. We crossed the beautiful Yaquina Bay Bridge into Newport and visited the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, the second oldest standing lighthouse on the Oregon coast.  IMG_3772IMG_3773IMG_3769

Built in 1871 it was decommissioned in 1874. Yes, after only three years! It is the only existing lighthouse with the living quarters attached and the only historic wooden Oregon lighthouse still standing. It was restored to a working lighthouse in 1996 as a privately maintained by the Oregon Parks and Recreation as a navigation aid for the United States Coast Guard. Today a steady white light shines from dusk to dawn. IMG_3764IMG_3767

Next we drove to Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area.  The Yaquina Head Lighthouse located there, is also called the Cape Foulweather Lighthouse because when it was built they mistakenly thought they were at Cape Foulweather. At 93 feet, it is the tallest lighthouse in Oregon. It was first lit in 1873 and was automated in 1966.  It is still active today. IMG_3778IMG_3801

We first stopped at the Interpretive Center where we saw exhibits on whales and watched a movie about the area. 

IMG_3779

Even the Doors have Lighthouse Silhouettes

IMG_3776

We then drove to the lighthouse which has beautiful views. IMG_3781IMG_3804

We could see whales spouting in the distance, seals lounging on rocks and lots of birds. IMG_3799

As we walked up towards the lighthouse we noticed a bad smell. At first we thought it was from the seals. Then in the distance we saw huge rocks with  seabirds sitting on them. The rocks were covered in white bird poop. That was the source of the smell. Yuk! IMG_3802

We read that the common murres bird colonies here are the most rapidly growing on the Oregon coast. IMG_3791IMG_3790

Sunset from our beach side campsite. IMG_3806IMG_3809IMG_3813

Next up : more time on the Oregon coast

Beach 4 Olympic NP, WA AUG 17, 2018

While we were staying at South Beach we drove just up the road (US 101) to “Beach 4” in the Olympic National Park.  We had read there was some great tidal pool viewing during low tide. It is very important to look at the tide charts if you want to do any beach activities on the northwest beaches. Most of these pictures can only be taken during low tide. IMG_3506IMG_3557IMG_3514IMG_3519

We hiked the short trail towards the beach which abruptly stopped at the end of a small bridge.  From here you had to climb down an uneven rocky cliff to the beach. 20180817_110507

I am not ashamed to say I was too scared to do it. It is not only steep but the rocks are tilted at odd angles due to continental movement over the past 15 million years. We were shocked that the national park did not provide a safer way to get to the beach. Even though several people came by and carefully picked their way down, I refused to try. I just do not like rock scrambling. I encouraged Bill to go ahead without me and I was more than happy waiting on the bridge. At one point a park ranger came by leading a nature walk and helped his group down the worst part of the rocks. I was still not willing to do it. 20180817_111146

Bill walked down the beach to some rock outcroppings and took some great pictures of many anemones, lots of starfish, a jellyfish and an eagle. I enjoyed seeing the pictures just as you are now. Bill said he had to do a lot of rock scrambling to get the pictures and even if I had gone down to the beach I probably would not have wanted to climb on the rocks to see anything. IMG_3507IMG_3515IMG_3516IMG_3527IMG_3528IMG_3530IMG_3531IMG_3537IMG_3538IMG_3544IMG_3548IMG_3554IMG_3556IMG_3560IMG_3563IMG_3567IMG_3569IMG_3576IMG_3578IMG_3580

Yep, happy just to look at the pictures! While the Washington beaches are rugged, wild and absolutely beautiful, they are not easily accessible. They all require a degree of hiking; some short hikes, some challenging hikes and as I found out, occasionally some rock climbing. I prefer beaches where you park and walk right out across the sand to the water. IMG_3581

 

IMG_3505

Another Example Of A Nurse Tree

We were happy to see Destruction Island and a lighthouse built in 1891. IMG_3520IMG_3526

Next: As fall approaches we head south back to Oregon

South Beach Olympic NP, WA AUG 12, 2018

After Forks we had a reservation for one night at a campground in Olympic National Park.  However I read about a first come first serve (no reservations) campground, also in Olympic National Park, with campsites that overlooked the ocean.  This campground is at one of several beaches in Olympic National Park and some of the last protected wilderness beaches in the contiguous United States. Since it was first come first serve we got up early Sunday morning and drove the 45 minutes to South Beach campground. This is one Pacific Ocean viewpoint along US-101. IMG_20180817_121518IMG_20180817_121509

We found the perfect site and asked the current occupants if they were leaving and if we could claim it by putting a folding chair on the picnic table. The current occupant said no problem. In the meantime we pulled into a less desirable site and waited. And waited. For five hours. Even though checkout was 11:00 AM, they finally pulled out around 2:30. With this view I can see why they hated to leave. IMG_3483IMG_3484

We stretched what was originally going to be a one night stay at the other campground to six nights here. Who could resist staying longer at this site with ocean views and the sound of the ocean right outside your window? A short distance from our campsite was a path down to the beach. IMG_20180813_180927IMG_20180813_175803IMG_20180813_175931

And can you believe with our national park senior pass the price was $7.50 a night? We were thrilled. Only drawback was it had no hookups. Small price to pay in our opinion. While we were there it was very hazy and we were under a poor air quality alert for many days. The Seattle TV News said it was due to wildfires in Canada with the air pressure system pushing the air down into our area. IMG_3488IMG_3497IMG_3503

During our six days we spent a lot of time enjoying the beach but one day we drove to another rain forest.  Last week it was the Hoh Rain Forest and this time we visited Quinault Rain Forest south of us in the southwestern edge of Olympic National Park. Last time we were here was 2014.  IMG_3482IMG_3477

We drove the 31 mile loop around Lake Quinault and Quinault River through the Quinault Rain Forest. We took a short hike to the World’s Largest Sitka Spruce. IMG_3461IMG_3460IMG_3466IMG_3462IMG_3464

It is 191 feet tall, diameter of 18 feet, 9 inches and a circumference of 58 feet, 11 inches. It is estimated to be about 1,000 years old.

Along the drive we stopped at Merriman Falls and IMG_3468

Bunch Falls. IMG_3471

We ended the day by hiking the Maple Glade Trail.  We really enjoyed our walk because it was far less crowded and seemed more green and lush than the Hoh Rain Forest we visited less week.  All of Washington state is really hurting for rain. The local news said that in the last 120 days the state has received less than an inch of rain. All areas are under a fire ban. 20180814_12564220180814_130741IMG_3478IMG_3480

Four years ago we took a difficult trail to see the large Quinault Cedar Tree here but we learned that it has now fallen over. IMG_20180814_133046
Here is our pictures from 2014:

IMG_0804IMG_0802

Next up: A visit to Beach 4 and some amazing sea life

Hoh Rain Forest, WA AUG 9, 2018

Washington state, nicknamed the Evergreen State, has so much natural beauty with three national parks: Mt Rainier NP, North Cascades NP, and Olympic NP. For the past several weeks we have been enjoying the diversity of Olympic National Park. Encompassing 922,651 acres, it has three distinct and very different ecosystems:

  • glacier capped mountains, 
  • more than 70 miles of rugged coastline and
  • a temperate rain forest.

In previous blogs we described our visit to mountainous Hurricane Ridge, and in the past two blogs we talked about the rugged coastline. This blog is dedicated to the Olympic rain forest.

On Thursday we visited the nearby Hoh Rain Forest an hour away from our campground in Forks.  The Hoh Rain Forest is one of the last old growth temperate rain forests in the Western Hemisphere. It averages fourteen feet of rainfall annually.  The trees here can grow up to 300 feet tall. IMG_3402IMG_3408

As we approached the fee booth at the entrance to the park we were met by a long line of cars. We wondered why the line was moving so slowly and when it became our turn to show the ranger our pass, we found out why.  The ranger told us the parking lots were all full and we had to wait for a car to leave so we would have a place to park. We didn’t mind chatting with the friendly park ranger for a few minutes until we spotted a car coming from the opposite direction and it was our turn to enter. The ranger said they have been this busy all season. I can’t imagine what it is like on the weekend! (The cost to visit a national park is now $30 per vehicle and luckily we both bought senior passes when we became 62 which never have to be renewed)

Our goal was to take two hikes in this area of the park. We started with the Spruce Nature Trail which led us among moss covered trees and banks of ferns IMG_3409IMG_3414IMG_3416IMG_3417IMG_3418IMG_3422

IMG_3424

This tree has two ears

IMG_3426IMG_3427

which eventually led us past the Hoh River.  IMG_3434

This river is fifty miles long and begins high on glacier capped Mount Olympus and descends 7,000 feet to the Pacific Ocean. Hoh is a Native American term meaning “fast moving water”. Members of the Hoh Indian tribe still live in the area.  By the way, Washington state has more major cities with Native American names than any other state. IMG_3435IMG_3438

We then hiked The Hall of Mosses trail. We were amazed at the strange shapes the roots of trees formed as they spread through the forest. As you can imagine, the trails were very crowded.  IMG_344020180809_142548IMG_3442IMG_3443IMG_3444

We were last here in 2014 and we were somewhat surprised in this visit. Washington state has been very dry and it certainly shows in the rain forest. The area did not have the lush rain forest feeling we remembered from our visit four years ago. Instead it was hot, dry and the trails were dusty. 20180809_143557IMG_3445_stitch20180809_144115

IMG_3450

Not sure what to call this animal with a hat

20180809_144601

An amazing part of old growth forest is nurselogs: a fallen tree which, as it decays, provides ecological facilitation to seedlings to grow on it. 20180809_14585420180809_14403320180809_14471620180809_145706

The trail passes many large downed trees. IMG_3452IMG_3457IMG_345620180809_150357

Though we were surprised we still enjoyed our two rain forest hikes.

Today ( Saturday) we received about a quarter inch of rain. The first rain in a very long time. I could almost hear the grass, which crinkled when walked on, breathing a sigh of relief as it drank in the precious rain.

Tomorrow we move a little further south in Washington for some camping on the beach. Hopefully the marine layer will cooperate!

Ruby Beach, WA AUG 7, 2018

After our strenuous hike at Rialto Beach, the next day we decided to visit another nearby beach slightly to our south called Ruby Beach.  We had read this was a beautiful and easily accessible beach.

When we left the campground at Forks it was a bright sunny day with a temperature around 80.  At Ruby Beach we walked down the short trail from the parking lot to the beach and we were very disappointed to see a heavy marine layer which prevented us from seeing more than a quarter of a mile. IMG_3368

We saw lots of driftwood and a creek by the name of Cedar Creek flowing into the ocean.  In the middle of Cedar Creek was a rather unique sea stack.  : Sea Erosion LandformGeomopology – Scientific Figure on ResearchGate. Available from: https://www.researchgate.net/Sea-Erosion-Landform_fig57_322951064 [accessed 11 Aug, 2018]

Usually sea stacks are only found in the ocean but this one was in the creek water and had two holes worn in the middle.  IMG_338320180808_131623

We walked around for awhile and sat on some driftwood but didn’t stay as long as planned since the mist got worse, reducing visibility to about an eighth of a mile. After we drove a short distance from the beach it was once again bright sunshine and warm. 20180808_125009IMG_336920180808_12540720180808_131658IMG_339020180808_131637IMG_3376IMG_3381

On the way home we stopped at two unusual trees located on state land.  One was named Duncan Cedar and is the world’s largest western red cedar with a height of 178 feet and a diameter of 19.4 feet.  The tree is still living and has a little green at the top but it certainly was not a very pretty tree and had seen better days.  But the old fella deserved a visit and our respect. IMG_3394IMG_3396

The other tree was a very unique twisted tree, we took a picture of both sides of the tree.  IMG_3399IMG_3400

We found geocaches at both trees.

Bill and I were talking the other day about the fact that the west coast of the United States does not have thunderstorms like the east coast.  We have been on the west coast all spring and summer and have not had a single storm with lightning and thunder. I did a little research and it all has to do with the Pacific Ocean being so cold and the air in the west being so dry.

On a different note there has been quite a lot on the local Seattle TV news about the shrinking number of Orca whales in the Bay of Juan de Fuca.  Researchers say it is due to noise from boats and a dwindling food supply due to overfishing  being the greatest factors.  For several days every night on the news they were discussing one whale they were keeping an eye on who was losing considerable weight. They estimated she only has days to live and were trying to figure out ways to get salmon to her without other sea life eating it. You might have also seen on the news about another mother whale whose baby died.  She pushed the dead baby around for many days, refusing to accept it was dead. We learned that whales give birth to one offspring every one to six years. This mother whale was really grieving. So sad.

Next up:  A visit to the rainforest. In Washington state???

Clallam Bay, WA AUG 2, 2018

After a week at Salt Creek Recreation Area it was time to move on.  On the way out we were treated to the sight of five beautiful deer grazing in the campground field.  They are used to having people around and didn’t pay any attention to us. 20180802_101639

We made the hour drive west to Clallam Bay, Washington (pop 363) for a three night stay.  We were glad it was a short drive because the road was very curvy and hilly with lots of bumps and waves that swayed the RV from side to side. Our campground in Clallam Bay was not fancy, but nothing in this rather remote section of Washington state is fancy or developed.  Pretty much nothing in the way of stores or restaurants which was fine with us because we had stocked up on groceries in Port Angeles. Fishing, logging and tourism are the main industries in the town. IMG_3261IMG_3260

Our main reason for coming here was to visit nearby Cape Flattery, the most northwestern point in the lower 48 contiguous states.  On our drive to the Cape we had beautiful scenic views of the Cape of Juan de Fuca, including a couple cruise ships heading east to either Victoria, British Columbia or Seattle. IMG_3268

The land at Cape Flattery is owned by the native American Makah Indian Reservation and we had to buy a $10 annual permit to hike on their land. IMG_3270IMG_3272 The two mile round trip hike was not easy with narrow, uneven boardwalks and tricky tree roots just waiting to trip the unsuspecting hiker. The worst part of the hike was how crowded the trail was and since the boardwalks were narrow, we often had to stop to let someone pass.  We were also not thrilled that it was mostly uphill on the way back! IMG_3274IMG_3278IMG_20180804_155007IMG_3315IMG_3280IMG_3319

There were three viewpoints along the way, each breathtaking.  IMG_3282IMG_3284IMG_3286IMG_20180804_162258IMG_20180804_162324IMG_3290IMG_3295IMG_3298

At the last viewpoint we could see the Cape Flattery lighthouse located on nearby Tatoosh Island.   Built in 1854, it is a deactivated lighthouse and is the northwesternmost lighthouse on the West Coast in the lower 48.  In 2008 a solar powered beacon fitted with six year batteries was installed by the Coast Guard and the lighthouse was turned over to the Makah tribe which also owns Tatoosh Island. The lighthouse is closed to the public and special permission must be given by the Makah tribe to visit the island. IMG_20180804_163615IMG_3299IMG_3306IMG_3307IMG_3311IMG_3312IMG_3314IMG_3320

This tree looked like an elephant. 

Next stop:  Forks, WA

Rialto Beach, WA AUG 5, 2018

Leaving Clallam Bay in northwest Washington, we turned around and headed south once again.  Our destination was Forks which we last visited in 2014. The town of Forks, population 3,500, is best known as the setting for author Stephenie Meyer’s “Twilight” book series and five subsequent movies.  Twilight fans come to Forks from all over the world to have their pictures taken at different locations mentioned in the book but the funny thing is the only part of Forks actually filmed in the movie was the town sign!  The town was quick to use the Twilight series to their advantage and along Main Street are many small shops and hotels with the word “Twilight” in the name.

Last time we were in Forks it was a short stop so we never had a chance to visit the beaches nearby. This time we booked a week’s stay so we would have plenty of time to explore.

Our first outing took us to Rialto Beach less than ten miles from Forks. We waited to go until the afternoon so we would be there during low tide.  During low tide you have a better chance of seeing marine life in the tide pools and we also wanted to walk to the “Hole in the Wall” which is only accessible during low tide.  

The west coast beaches with their rugged coastline and jagged rocks are so different from the east coast. We walked the short distance to the beach, passing huge piles of driftwood that commonly washes ashore. 20180807_140004IMG_3323

We had a one and a half mile hike to our destination, “Hole in the Wall”, which doesn’t seem like a terribly long distance.  But it was a long, exhausting hike out and back due to the rocky beach. The beach is covered with small rocks and even though we had on shoes it seemed for every two steps we took forward, we slid back a step on the rocks. If we tried to walk closer to the water we sank in deep tiny pebbles worse than sand, we would get wet and the water was cold!!  When we left Forks the temperature was around 80 degrees. On the beach it was 57 degrees with a stiff wind blowing from the north. Even with jackets, we were cold! IMG_332120180808_131430IMG_3322

Despite all this we enjoyed looking in the tide pools seeing sea anemones 20180807_145800IMG_3333IMG_3335IMG_333620180807_150126IMG_334020180807_151050IMG_3360

and even a starfish. IMG_3363

Next we saw a sea stack called “Shark Fins”. 20180807_150144IMG_332420180807_153918

Once we reached the Hole in the Wall we had to climb over rocks (never my favorite thing to do!) to reach the opening where you could walk back and forth. You really have to know the tide charts because if you don’t return through the opening in time, you are trapped when the tide comes in. We had read stories of unsuspecting people being caught and clinging to the side of cliffs or trees.  We definitely respect Mother Nature and her power! IMG_334220180807_152140IMG_3344IMG_3346IMG_3354

The walk back was just as slow and agonizing as the trip out. By the time we headed back down the beach the marine layer started rolling in.

IMG_3364

We saw two girls using the trees to read their books

IMG_3366

This place is for the birds! 

When we reached the car you could hardly see in front of you. Meanwhile a few miles back in Forks there was bright sunshine and it was over 80 degrees.

Our pedometers showed between the hike to “Hole in the Wall”, walking around the tide pools and exploring the beach we logged a little over four miles. A very hard four miles. We were exhausted.

After that strenuous hike we were starving so we stopped on the way home at a restaurant on the Quinault Indian Reservation and had dinner.  Good food!

Next up: Another nearby beach and hike

Salt Creek Recreation Area, WA July 26, 2018

We left the Port Townsend area and headed west to Salt Creek Recreation Area.  We were last here in 2014. Somehow back then we missed the WW II bunkers at Camp Hayden (built 1942-5).  You can actually drive your car through the bunker! Camp Hayden was used during World War II as a harbor defense military base.  The two concrete bunkers housed 16-inch guns and several smaller bunkers. IMG_20180727_144311IMG_20180727_144556

The huge guns were 45 feet long and shot one-ton projectiles 28 miles. IMG_20180727_144407

The guns were only fired for practice. While in the area we found several geocaches. IMG_20180727_150226

From our campsite at Salt Creek Recreation Area we had a beautiful panoramic view of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Crescent Bay and Vancouver Island, Canada (British Columbia).  Our front window gave us views of cruise ships and barges passing by until the fog rolled in each day during the evenings. IMG_3255

The international boundary between the United States and Canada runs down the center of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. IMG_20180727_142124IMG_20180727_142145IMG_20180727_145933

On Saturday we drove to nearby Port Angeles to meet a friend of Bill’s who now lives in Washington state. Her family went to the same church as Bill in the 1980’s.  We had a lovely lunch and introduced her to geocaching. IMG_20180728_141938

We saw this wall mural of a old car ferry. Port Angeles has regular ferry service to Victoria, Canada. 20180728_142242

While in the area Bill and I went to the Olympic National Park Visitors Center and drove up to Hurricane Ridge. Due to clouds and haze the view of the glaciers clad mountains was not as good as it was when we were here in 2014.  IMG_20180728_16250720180728_163423

Hurricane Ridge, at 5,242 feet is the most easily accessed mountain area in Olympic National Park. IMG_20180728_162351

Hurricane Ridge got its name from the intense wind often experienced in the area. While we were there it was a nice 70 degrees with light winds. We saw a few deer lounging around. IMG_20180728_163652IMG_20180728_163735

On Tuesday we drove once again into Olympic National Park along the picturesque Crescent Lake.  IMG_3252

Our main purpose was to hike to two waterfalls. The first waterfall was the Marymere Falls, a beautiful 90 foot waterfall we accessed along a one mile walk through the forest. IMG_20180731_121414IMG_20180731_121705IMG_20180731_123106IMG_20180731_122516

We then drove to the next waterfall and hiked another mile to the Sol Duc Falls which splits into four channels as it cascades 48 feet into a narrow, rocky canyon. IMG_20180731_145858IMG_20180731_145701-EFFECTS

It was a wonderful day and we got in almost four and a half miles of hiking. IMG_20180731_151014IMG_20180731_130330

Next stop: Clallam Bay, Washington