Category Archives: Exploring

Exploring

Alesund, Norway JUN 12, 2023

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After 2 nights sailing in the Norwegian Sea, we pulled into the port of Alesund, pop 67,000, on the west coast of Norway. What a beautiful, picturesque city!

On the night of January 23, 1904, practically the entire town was destroyed by fire. Only one person died but more than 10,000 people were left homeless. After so many homes formerly built of wood were destroyed by fire, the town rose from the ashes with new homes rebuilt using stone, brick and mortar. Most buildings were rebuilt from stone in Art Nouveau style between 1904 and 1907.

A WWI Ship Mine

Alesund was often given the term “Little London” during the occupation of Norway by Nazi Germany because of the resistance work that took place there. 

Alesund also has the most important fishing harbor in Norway with one of the most modern fishing fleets in Europe. It has a large shipbuilding yard as well as a large furniture industry. 

We were thrilled to see temperatures in the early morning in the 60’s and no rain. What a welcome relief after the cold weather in Iceland! 

We had a choice of a Hop On Hop Off Bus, a miniature sightseeing train or exploring by foot. We wanted to see the spectacular view from Mt Aksla but didn’t relish the idea of the 400 steps up and 400 steps down to the viewing platform.

So we decided on the sightseeing train that took us right to the top as well as giving us a nice commentary of the town.

WW2 German Bunkers

After visiting Mt Aksla we rode throughout Alesund, including by The House That Didn’t Burn. The story is during the devastating fire of 1904, this small wooden house survived the fire while others around it were destroyed. The day before the fire an angel visited the owner, Anders Nor, and told him something was going to happen that was very bad, but he was not to be afraid and not to leave his house. If he did not leave, his house would be spared. He stayed and the house is still standing today. Furniture that had been removed from the house caught fire and burned. The miracle house is a museum today and the story of Anders Nor’s miracle is still being shared today.

It was an enjoyable ride. We did a little shopping but found souvenirs very expensive in both Iceland and Norway. So no shirt today but we have two more ports in Norway so there is always hope.  We did manage to find a geocache on our way back to the ship as well as a supermarket for some Diet Coke and Coke Zero. 

Next up: Maloy, Norway

Reykjavik, Iceland JUN 9, 2023

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Our second port was in southwestern Iceland near Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland. The area where the ship docked was industrial and not at all attractive.

This Side Of Ship Was Scenic

The city of Reykjavik was about two miles from the port. Usually visiting a capital city is high on our list, but today we booked an excursion into the countryside to explore why Iceland is called “the Land of Fire and Ice”.

The popular eight hour “Golden Circle” excursion began with cold, windy weather and pouring rain. At times I wondered how the bus driver could see between the fog and driving rain. We really couldn’t see much of anything out the bus windows, but our guide entertained us with facts and stories about her home country of Iceland.

When the Mountains Were pushed up under a Glacier They had Flat Tops

By the time we arrived at our first destination, the Haukadalur Geothermal Valley (Geysir, the Icelandic spelling of geyser) Hot Spring Area, the rain had let up enough that we could get off the bus without getting drenched. Geologists estimate this geothermal field has a surface area of about 1.1 square miles. The area became active more than a thousand years ago and consists of boiling mud pots and more than a dozen hot water blow holes, with the oldest dating back to 1294.

Earthquakes in southern Iceland have caused changes in the geothermal area, creating new hot springs. The most famous and active geyser is Strokkur which spouts water 100 feet into the air every few minutes.

We walked around the area and waited for the geyser to spout. It felt very similar to what we saw at Yellowstone National Park and the geothermal areas in New Zealand. It was so cold and windy!! But since the rain had let up, we had hope for better weather the rest of the day. 

Next up we traveled to Gullfoss Falls for lunch. We were at 66 degrees north of the equator.

A Popular Clothing Line is 66 North

The closest we had been to the Arctic Circle was at our last port of Isafjordur. When we found the geocaches there, that was the furthest north we had ever found a geocache. For lunch, the hot tomato soup was most welcome followed by fresh salmon on a bed of rice and vegetables. Since I don’t eat seafood, lunch was not the greatest for me. After lunch we were supposed to walk down to the waterfall. By now the rain was coming down in sheets blowing sideways in the wind. Even with rain gear there was no way to walk there and not get drenched. Our pants below the knees were wet just walking from the bus into the restaurant. We watched people coming back completely drenched and freezing from the cold wind and rain.  Our guide said she would walk down to the waterfall with anyone who wanted to go. Some brave souls, or crazy people depending on how you look at it, wanted to go. Bill and I decided we had seen a lot of waterfalls over the years and this one was just not worth it. We knew there was no way to keep from getting soaking wet and we would then have to sit the rest of the day with cold, wet clothes. I was proud of us for making a wise decision. Sure didn’t want another bout of bronchitis. 

Those who walked to the waterfall came back to the bus with wet coats, umbrellas, hats etc and no place to hang them to dry. I noticed our guide sat on a plastic bag because her pants were so wet. 

After that ordeal we had one more stop which turned out to be the most enjoyable of the day. The skies began to clear and the sun actually made an appearance. This stop was at Pingvollum National Park.

The region is part of the Atlantic ridge that runs through Iceland.

You can see the consequences of the sliding of the earth’s crust in the cracks and fissures of the area. We walked along a path where we could see the huge walls where the earth had cracked. The sun was out but it was deceiving. With the strong wind, it was really cold.

Our guide did a great job keeping us motivated and happy regardless of the weather. When we were walking along the path where the earth had cracked, she said she could remember walking on that same path with her father and how happy her father was because Iceland had just achieved its independence in 1944.

I would guess her age at somewhere in her 80’s. She certainly was energetic and spry in all that rainy, cold weather. I guess doing all those tours and getting so much exercise keeps her young. The Icelandic people must be a hearty people to deal with all that cold weather!

We found a waterfall crossing under the path.

As for us, we’ll take Florida! 

Some Iceland facts courtesy of our guide :

  • Reykjavik, Iceland is the northernmost capital in the world
  • Iceland is one of the youngest countries on the earth, if not the youngest, because it was formed from relatively recent earthquake activity
  • Where we were riding on the bus was the ocean floor 10,000 years ago
  • 5.8% of Iceland is uninhabitable 
  • At the turn of the century, 90% people farmed and fished. Today 7%. Tourism has overtaken the fishing industry
  • Icelanders are Scandinavian and Irish. Their language is from Nordic and Celtic origin
  • Women are 65% Celtic bloodline and 35% Scandinavian, Men are 65% Scandinavian and 35% Celtic
  • Most houses are heated with geothermal water
  • In 2008 all the banks went bankrupt
  • In 1989 it became legal to drink alcoholic beer 
  • There is a waiting list to get into prison because they have small prisons 
  • Crime rate is increasing due to more gangs but it is still a relatively safe country 
  • 87% of their energy is renewable 
  • Most of the oil is used for fishing boats
  • There are lots of greenhouses and Iceland has the biggest banana plantation in Europe
  • Because of earthquakes there are strict building codes
  • In towns with geothermal activity, there are no basements and cemeteries because of what is hot underground. People are buried in nearby towns. 
  • Iceland was ruled by Denmark for a long time. In 1918 they became sovereign and in 1944 became a republic. 
  • In 1986 they elected their first woman president
  • The national parliament of Iceland is the oldest legislature in the world that has been abolished and subsequently re-established. founded in 930.

Next up:  Alesund, Norway

 

Isafjordur, Iceland JUN 8, 2023

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Leaving Scotland, we had two sea days before reaching Isafjordur, Iceland. After cruising all night and most of the day in the North Atlantic Ocean, we were making good time to Iceland. Each day at noon the Captain comes on the loudspeaker to update us on our location, sea conditions, weather forecasts, etc. It is a routine daily update everyone expects. We also know from past cruise experiences, if the captain comes on the loudspeaker at any other time, it is never good news. Sure enough, at 4:00 in the afternoon, the captain made an unexpected announcement. A passenger on the ship was very ill and needed immediate medical treatment. Since we were in the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean and out of range of a rescue helicopter, the captain had no choice but to turn around and head back towards Scotland. When he got within range, a helicopter would fly out and pick up the critically ill passenger. 

Four hours later we spotted a helicopter in the distance headed for the ship. It was a British Coast Guard long range military rescue helicopter. It hovered over the ship and had to abort the first rescue attempt and make another circle around the ship. There is no place large enough on the ship for a helicopter that size to land. They had to lower a cradle basket down for the patient to be placed in and then raised into the helicopter. A dangerous and tricky operation. The winds were light and the sea was relatively calm, which helped reduce the risk of failure.

On the second try the mission was successfully completed and the helicopter flew off towards Scotland. Our ship’s captain slowly turned the ship around and we were headed once again towards Iceland.

The next day we were invited to a Captain’s Cocktail Party. The captain and many officers were there. The captain said the passenger had made it safely to Scotland and was recovering nicely. He received applause and cheers from the passengers for successfully getting the patient treatment. He said he was putting the pedal to the metal so to speak and we should still arrive in Iceland at the scheduled time. I will say that of all our cruises, this is the youngest ship’s captain we have ever had.

We could definitely feel a change in temperature around the ship, especially when walking outside. Temperatures outside were now in the upper 40’s to lower 50’s as we steamed in the North Atlantic towards Iceland. 

We are now very close to the Arctic Circle so sunset is 53 minutes after midnight and sunrise is 2:09 A.M.! A little more than an hour of darkness each day. 

Our first port in Iceland was Isafjordur, located just below the Arctic Circle. Isafjordur, meaning “ice fjord” in the Icelandic language, is a tiny town in northwest Iceland, population 2,600.  It is characterized by dramatic fjords, rugged cliffs and remote valleys.

This area was first settled in the ninth century by mainly Norsemen. Around the 16th century the town grew rapidly as it became a merchant trading post and in the 18th century a flourishing fishing village. Isafjordur and all the tiny neighboring towns share the same history; they were founded on and grew up around fishing, whether you processed fish on land or fished at sea. Isolation has forced the inhabitants to be culturally self-sufficient. The town became a municipality in 1786.  Some of the oldest houses in Iceland are located here. The majority of the population here is of Icelandic descent. There are few immigrants from other countries. Today, tourism is the fastest growing industry in this part of Iceland and therefore English is now widely spoken

True to the Captain’s word, we arrived in Isafjordur right on schedule. The harbor here was too shallow to accommodate a large cruise ship, therefore this was a tender port, meaning we would have to board small lifeboats to go into port from the ship. It is one of our least favorite things to do. Fortunately we were given priority boarding passes for the tender boat, meaning we could go over anytime we wanted. We didn’t have to get up early and get in line for tender tickets.

We did not have an excursion booked for this port, and knowing it was a very small town, we took our time at breakfast, figuring all the people with excursions would be taking the early tender boats. When we went down at 9:15 we were quite surprised to see a long line. It was about a 30 minute wait before we were on the next tender boat. They sure pile people in there tight. Fortunately the water was smooth as glass and it was only a ten minute ride to shore.

We walked through Old Town, with wooden houses built in the late 19th century, which is considered very old in Iceland. For the most part the houses are very well cared for and made for quite a picturesque setting against the fjord and harbor.

Bill found two geocaches, one of which was located in the town’s one and only roundabout.

It was cold, windy and occasionally spitting rain. We walked back to the tender boat and were very glad they took us quickly back to the ship. We were afraid we would have to wait until the boat was full. It was nice on the ride back not to be packed in like sardines. 

Some hot tea and lunch sure tasted good. 

We chuckled at this teenager’s jacket at lunch. Kids!!

As the ship pulled away later in the afternoon, the fog was moving in creating an eerie look.

Next up: A very cold, rainy, windy day exploring Iceland

 

Glasgow, Scotland JUN 5, 2023

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After leaving Southampton and spending two days at sea, our first port of call was Greenock, Scotland. From here we had booked an excursion into nearby Glasgow, pop 1,700,000, the largest city in Scotland. It was about an hour ride from Greenock into Glasgow. We then had four hours to explore on our own before being picked up for our bus ride back to the ship. It seemed like the most efficient use of our time was to use the Hop On Hop Off Bus which was reasonably priced and included a senior discount.

It took over an hour and a half to make the entire loop around the city. Our four hour time limit was disappearing quickly. The second time around we got off at the Glasgow Cathedral. The Cathedral, a parish of the Church of Scotland, is the oldest cathedral in mainland Scotland and the oldest building in Glasgow. The first stone cathedral was dedicated in 1136 and fragments of that building have been found under the present cathedral dedicated in 1197. Much of today’s cathedral was rebuilt in the 13th century. The inside of the cathedral is breathtaking.

Outside the Gallery of Modern Art is an equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, erected in 1844 to mark the successful end in 1815 of the French Revolution and Napoleonic Wars. Since the 1980s it has been traditionally capped with a traffic cone by members of the public to represent the humor of the local people.

The People’s Palace is a museum that tells the story of Glasgow and its people from 1750 to the present. It first opened in 1898.

Outside of the People’s Palace is Doulton Fountain, the largest terracotta fountain in the world. It commemorates the 50th anniversary of  Queen Victoria’s coronation.

University of Glasgow is a public research university founded in 1451.  It is the 4th oldest university in the English speaking world and the largest university in Scotland. It ranks within the world’s top 100 universities.

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum  was constructed in 1888 and opened in 1901.

City Chambers is a Victorian style building which has served as some form of municipal government since 1889.

While the buildings in Glasgow are architecturally impressive, years of pollution and grime have made the buildings look dirty and tired. I couldn’t help wondering just how beautiful the buildings would be if they were power washed and restored to their original grandeur.

With a stop at the Hard Rock Cafe for Bill’s shirt and a lunch nearby of fish and chips while sitting on the steps at George Square, our four hours were up. Time to meet up with the bus back to the cruise ship. We could have definitely used another two or three hours.

We certainly enjoyed our day in Scotland. That evening as the ship was preparing to leave port, some Scottish bagpipers gathered on the dock to play for us as we pulled away. What a nice touch to end our time in Scotland. Select the image below to start the video

or use this link: https://youtu.be/UdEQ6b2YamM

Our last view of Scotland.

Next up: Iceland 

Basingstoke, England May 27, 2023

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Today was a long, hard, tiring day for us, made worse by my still being ill with bronchitis. The ship arrived back in Trieste and we were assigned to the first disembarkation group because we had an early ride booked to the Venice airport. We went through the disembarkation gauntlet of people but when we finally arrived inside the terminal (just before the final exit door) I came to the panicked realization that I did not have my cellphone. I knew immediately what had happened. I laid it down on the bench beside me while waiting for our group to be called. When they called our number, I jumped up leaving my phone behind.  I guess I will blame it on not thinking clearly due to being sick. While Bill waited on the sidewalk with the luggage, I tried to get back on the ship, fighting my way across the tide of people going the opposite direction. Security is always very tight getting on and off the ship so I had to convince three security officers to let me back onboard. I raced to where I knew I left it and it wasn’t there. My heart sank. I asked where Lost and Found was located. Guest Services, deck 5. Once again I was going against the tide, with people rushing down the stairs and me up the stairs. As always there was a long line at Guest Services. I was in panic mode because I knew our reserved ride to the airport would be leaving soon. When my turn finally came the lady checked the computer and sure enough a black phone had been found. She casually sauntered over to a drawer and retrieved it. Yes, I said, it is my phone. I had to prove it was mine by typing in the security password. Just when I thought I could go on my way, no. Paperwork had to filled out. Always paperwork. Shifting impatiently from one foot to another, finally the paperwork was signed and I rushed away. When I reached Bill, our four dinner companions were there with him, concerned about my phone and wanting to tell us goodbye. How sweet is that! They were all headed to Venice for several days before returning home. 

We then discovered our reserved shuttle wasn’t going to pick us up at the port. Instead we had to take a taxi to a parking lot in Trieste where we would be picked up. We were concerned when we reached the parking lot and no shuttle bus was there. Even the taxi driver seemed concerned about leaving us there. After several minutes Bill received a text message from the driver that he was running late. Eventually he arrived and we were on our way to the Venice airport, a ninety minute drive. 

Thankfully our flight from Venice to Gatwick airport in the United Kingdom was uneventful. When we arrived at Gatwick we went through passport control, collected our luggage and then figured out how to get to the railway station located at the airport. After buying the tickets we caught the train to Basingstoke, with one train change on the way. Due to a tight connection we missed our connecting train but another one soon arrived. Both trains were crowded and the entire trip took about two hours. We arrived in Basingstoke just before 7:00 P.M. and walked from the train station to our hotel. After stopping at an express market for bottled water, we finally arrived at our hotel around 7:30.  We had been going nonstop since before 6:00 AM that morning. and changed one time zone 

We chose Basingstoke, pop 186,000, for this five day stay because it was centrally located and a convenient home base to explore the UK. But we quickly realized that even though we had the will and desire to explore, our bodies were shutting down and had other ideas. After almost six weeks of traveling, we desperately needed some time for rest and relaxation. We had a nice apartment with a kitchen and washer/dryer so after getting groceries, we took it easy for the next several days. Located within an easy walk were places to eat and a beautiful, huge mall. We had a short list of things we needed at this point in our trip, and we easily found everything. We discovered they have a store in the UK called Poundland, which is just like our Dollar Tree. They call theirs Poundland because a pound in the UK is like our dollar.

We Did Not Stay Here, Just Took A Picture

Basingstoke claims to be the birthplace of author Jane Austen. They have a sign proclaiming it as her birthplace and a statue of Austen as a young girl is located in front of their history museum. However all the research I found says that Austen was born in the nearby village of Steventon and often visited Basingstoke as a child.

St Michael’s was a beautiful church located just down the street from our apartment. We admired it everytime we walked by. It was built in the 16th century of stone and glint. Sadly time passed quickly and we never had a chance to go inside.

We had a nice meal at a Thai restaurant where Bill enjoyed some of his favorite Thai foods.

Our time in Basingstoke passed quickly. We were disappointed we didn’t get to see more of England, but our bodies had other ideas and we feel certain we will be back someday soon.

Corn Exchange now Haymarket Theatre since 1951

On Thursday, June 1st we walked from the apartment back to the train station and took a train to Southampton. This journey was only 30 minutes and once again the train was very crowded. We walked from the train station to our very small apartment. This apartment was tiny, cramped and on a very busy, noisy street. It was disappointing small but only for two nights.

Southampton is a port city of over 255,000, making it one of the most populous cities in southern England. The Titanic left Southampton on her fateful voyage and 500 of the people who died were from here. On August 20, 1620 the Pilgrims left Southampton on their voyage to a new life in America. Did you know there were two ships, the Mayflower and the Speedwell? They both left Southampton but after the Speedwell began leaking badly they stopped in Plymouth for repairs. The Speedwell was declared unfit to continue so some people dropped out and only the Mayflower continued on from Plymouth.

Around Southampton are the remains of defensive structures built around the town in the tenth century to defend its prosperous trading center. In 1338 it was raided by French forces and the walls were extended and reinforced, eventually fully enclosing the city with a 1.25 mile long stone wall with 29 towers and eight gates. By the 17th century the wall’s importance declined and they were slowly demolished through the 18th and 19th centuries. Like many things from the past, in the early 20th century their historical importance was recognized and steps were taken to preserve what was left.

Some thoughts on the UK:

At this point we have spent time in Austria, Slovenia, Italy and the UK. We can honestly say that the British are by far the nicest. Always friendly, kind, considerate and helpful, they are eager to please. If they see you need help, they step right up. If you look confused or uncertain, they stop and ask if you need assistance. At the train station the elevator was not working and railway workers stepped right up to carry our bags up or down the steep flights of stairs. Cannot say enough good things about everyone we met. 

On the downside, prices are higher than we expected. We talked with some locals and they say the economy is very bad which is why they are having rail strikes throughout the country. (We were very fortunate in that the two days we had to ride the train, there were no strikes on those days.) The locals also said a combination of Brexit and effects of the pandemic have really hurt the economy and people. 

Another thing that was surprising and sad was the number of homeless people living on the streets, particularly in Southampton. We saw very little of this in Austria, Italy or Slovenia. 

On June 3rd we caught an Uber from our apartment to the cruise terminal. Our next adventure awaits, so stay tuned! 

Next up: A cruise to cold places! 

Corfu, Greece and Bari, Italy May 25, 2023

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Leaving Istanbul, we had gone as far north as planned and now turned south and headed back towards Greece. The next day was a sea day. After three busy port days in a row, we really enjoyed a restful day at sea. We were invited to a Captain’s Reception in the late morning with complimentary champagne and snacks. We were entertained by two of the ship’s dancers doing the tango. We also enjoyed playing Yahtzee with our new dinner friends.

Our next stop was the Greek island of Corfu. There are about 200 inhabited islands in Greece. The island of Corfu, pop. 32,000, is located in the Ionian Sea.

We did not have an excursion booked here and planned to explore on our own. We caught a shuttle which took us to the end of the long pier where we then caught a local city bus into the town center. With roots going back to the 8th century B.C. and after spending years under French and British rule, it became part of Greece in 1864.  It is flanked by two fortresses which did defended the city’s maritime interests against the Ottoman Empire. The Old Fortress was built in the 15th -16th century and the New Fortress in the 16th century.

We took these pictures inside the Holy Church of Saint Spyridon a Greek Orthodox Church.

We enjoyed walking around the city, crowded with cruise passengers, and even found a geocache. 

Our final port of this cruise was Bari, Italy. Unfortunately I was ill and unable to go ashore. Bill took a local bus into town to get me some medicine at the local pharmacy. It was difficult due to a language barrier, but he managed. He snapped a few pictures while he was in town.

Sunset from our Balcony

Next up: Disembarkation day and flight to England 

Spoiler alert! I am feeling better. 

Istanbul, Turkey May 23, 2023

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Our next stop in Turkey was the famous city of Istanbul. We had read that the sail into the port was one of the most beautiful in the world so we were up early for our arrival. The morning was cloudy but it was still an impressive sight.

We had booked an excursion here. Istanbul has a population of 16 million which is 19% of the population of Turkey. It is the largest city in Turkey and straddles the Bosphorus Strait, causing it to lie in both Europe and Asia. Istanbul is the most populous European city and the world’s 15th largest city. As to be expected, it has terrible traffic which we experienced throughout the day.

The first place we went was a mosque. We were required to remove our shoes and the ladies all had to cover their heads with a scarf.

Next was a spice market which is misleading because much more was sold there than just spices. We were given an hour to shop and Bill and I went in search of a second umbrella and a tee shirt. We knew ahead of time the Hard Rock Cafe here had closed permanently. We would have never found it in this massive city anyway. Bill managed to find a shirt he liked. Amazingly, we also found an umbrella.

Stuck in traffic, it took awhile to reach our lunch destination at a Turkish restaurant. One of the couples from our nightly dinners were also on this excursion and we had an enjoyable Turkish lunch. 

Next was a two hour narrated harbor cruise on a ferry boat. It was nice to see Istanbul by land and sea.

Fortress Made in Europe or Westside

Fortress Made in Asia or East
Side

Since our ship did not leave port until 11:00 that evening, we had time to enjoy the lights of the city at night. We felt the real vibes of the city as we stood on deck and listened to the loud calls to prayer being broadcast throughout the city as we watched the twinkling lights shining on the water.

A great day in Istanbul. 

Next up: Corfu, Greece

Ancient City of Ephesus, Turkey May 22, 2023

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On our next port stop on the Aegean Sea we took an excursion to the ancient city of Ephesus in Turkey (as of 2022 the United Nations agreed to change the spelling to Turkiye as requested by the Turkish President)

The ancient city of Ephesus was one of the largest and most important cities in the ancient Mediterranean world. Once an ancient Greek port city, it is one of the oldest Greek settlements on the Aegean Sea. It was the second biggest city in the Roman Empire. Today it is one of the largest Roman archeological sites in the eastern Mediterranean.

The Temple of Artemis, built in 550 B.C., is considered one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. In the 4th century B.C. a fire destroyed the temple. Workers completely rebuilt the temple twice. It was twice the size of any other Greek temple and had 127 columns, sixty feet high and four feet in diameter. It took workers 120 years to finish the temple. Today only the foundations and one column remains of what was once this greatest temple in the ancient Mediterranean.

Other main sites in Ephesus include The Temple of Hadrian, The Temple of the Sebastoi and the Library of Celcius.

Temple of Hadrian

Temple of Hadrian

Library of Celsius

Library of Celsius

In 17 A.D. an earthquake destroyed Ephesus and when the city was built back once again, the library was built and housed over 12,000-15,000 scrolls.

Public Bathroom

Public Bathroom

Ephesus was abandoned because silt built up in the harbor and eventually no ships could reach the city. Without ships there was no trade and therefore no city. 

Unfortunately the day we visited, a steady rain developed during part of our tour. The walkways are made of marble which are very slick when wet. So we had to creep along, trying to stay dry, take pictures, listen to the guide and not fall.

There were several stray dogs and cats wandering around. The dogs appeared friendlier than the cats.

Next we went to the House of the Virgin Mary, located not far from Ephesus, high on a mountaintop. Quite an adventure in the rain and the fog.

Ephesus is an important site in Christianity, mentioned multiple times in the New Testament. It is the site of the first church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Mary, mother of Jesus, spent the last years of her life in Ephesus with Saint John. At the time of his death, Jesus put Mary under the care of John (John 19: 26-27) On this mountaintop is the small house where Mary lived until her death in 48 A.D. (some believe it was 57 A.D.) . The setting is very quiet and peaceful. We were allowed to walk through the simple, modest house but no pictures were allowed.

A water fountain or well from a nearby spring under the house is said to have miraculous healing powers. Some people come here and fill small bottles of water to take with them. There is also a “wishing wall” where people write down their wishes and attach them to the wall.

Our guide said that each year on August 15th, the day of Mary’s death, pilgrims leave home early and walk six miles up the mountain to this site. They have a mass and meal and then make the long trek back home. 

Pope Benedict XVI, Pope Paul VI and Pope John Paul II visited here and held sermons. 

Our guide pointed out a small fortress on a distant mountain where she said Saint Paul was kept prisoner. Paul made several journeys to the area to let others know about Jesus Christ and spread Christianity around the world. (Acts 19:1) He arrived in Ephesus in 52 A.D. and baptized twelve followers of John the Baptist.

Some objected to Paul’s Christian teachings while others who made a living selling statues of Artemis objected to his teachings which they believed took away their business. Paul was brought to the Great Theatre of Ephesus where he was judged and found guilty.

Great Theatre

Great Theatre

He was imprisoned high on that mountain. It is believed that Paul wrote the Books of Ephesians, Colossians and Philemon, known as the Prison Epistles, while imprisoned here. 

On our way back to the ship we stopped by a weaving school and saw how heating silk “eggs” fibers are then pulled into a larger and stronger tread.

It was a fascinating day, in spite of the rain and fog.

Next up: A day in Istanbul

Athens, Greece May 21, 2023

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This is our first cruise with MSC cruise line. Our ship, the Splendida, was built in 2007 and is definitely looking old and worn. It doesn’t have activities like the newer ships such as a rock climbing wall, water park, ice skating rink, putt putt golf, etc. The food is mediocre. There is one area in which it excels and that is the nightly entertainment. It is great. In the past we have looked at price and itinerary when choosing a cruise. We will add the age of the ship to the criteria. Not that we need all the sports activities, but newer ships have cleaner, fresher carpets, furnishings, etc.

We were automatically placed at a table for six at dinner for the duration of the cruise. We would be eating with the same people every night for nine nights. There is always a little trepidation that first night when you meet the new people you will be spending two hours with each evening. We really hit the jackpot with our table companions. Two really nice couples, one from Panama City, Florida and the other couple split their time between New Hampshire and Tucson, Arizona. One was a retired school principal and the other a retired school librarian. How perfect is that! The other, retired military. We had the best time each night with these two couples. We often laughed and talked so long our waiter had to come over and gently remind us we had to leave so they could set up for the second dinner seating. We often all attended the evening show together, had a couple excursions together, and they taught us how to play Yahtzee! What a blessing they were and we looked forward to seeing them each day. Hopefully our paths will cross again someday. 

After our disappointment at missing our first stop.at Olympia, Greece, due to weather, our next port was Piraeus, Greece, the port for Athens. We had booked an excursion here into Athens.

Our first stop was the Acropolis and Parthenon. The Acropolis, the sacred focal point of ancient Athens, is a rocky hill containing the remains of several ancient buildings, most importantly the Parthenon.

The climb up the Acropolis was somewhat steep with deep steps, often without hand railings. Fortunately it was paved. What made the climb the most difficult was the huge crowds of people, everywhere, all clogging the pathway to the top. We were told there were five cruise ships in port, making the crowds worse. Coming down was even worse as the crowds grew. At one point we came to a complete stop as there was a bottleneck of people navigating down the steep steps.

The Parthenon is a former temple dedicated to the goddess Athena, who was protector of the city-state and whom Athens was named for. The original statue of Athena has been lost.

It was constructed beginning in the fifth century B.C. Its decorative sculptures are a classic example of Greek Art, as well as a symbol of Ancient Greece democracy and Western civilization. Since 1975 numerous large scale restoration projects have been undertaken and are still going on today.

Nearby is the Erechtheion shrine to Athena and Poseidon, and is said to be the place where the goddess created the first olive tree.

Looking Back As We Walk Down

Next up was the Panathenaic Stadium, the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. We missed the site of the ancient Olympics in Olympia, but got to see the site of the first modern games. It is the only stadium in the world built entirely of marble. It last hosted the Olympics in 2004. It is used today as a multipurpose stadium. We liked how from this viewpoint we could see the Acropolis and Parthenon.

We rode around different sites in Athens but it is hard taking pictures from a bus window. Athens is certainly high density (pop 3,154,000) with lots of traffic, pollution and the city looks rather run down and tired.

We saw the Monument to the Unknown Soldier with guards, just like ours back home.

Behind that is the Greek Parliament, built in 1842. It was formerly the residence of the Greek royal family. In 1929 it was converted into the Greek Parliament. Our tour guide told us that the May election for prime minister did not produce a majority vote, so another election will have to be held in June.

Bronze Statue of Alexander the Great

Alexander died in 323 B.C. after carving out an empire stretching from Greece to India.

Hadrian’s Gate, was erected For Emperor Hadrian 132 A.D.

This is the Hadrian Library.

As usual there was time left for shopping. While everyone else headed off to the tourist area, we found a Hard Rock Cafe within walking distance and set off there. We were given an hour and made it back in plenty of time.

An enjoyable day in Athens!

Too Many Bags!

Next up:  Ancient City of Ephesus, Turkey

Ljubljana, Slovenia May 13, 2023

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We checked out of our hotel in Graz and walked to the nearby modern train station for our journey to Ljubljana, Slovenia. We were still plagued with rainy weather but we were blessed that the rain stopped during our walk. And my cold was getting better. 

On the last train we had seats on what we think of as a traditional train. Once again we had a reservation but no seat assignment. We were pleasantly surprised to see that this train had cars with individual compartments with six seats in each compartment. We were able to get a compartment all to ourselves where we had plenty of room for our luggage. By the way, both trains had a restaurant car which we didn’t use.

This three and a half hour ride was not as scenic as the one from Vienna to Graz. But we enjoyed seeing the agricultural fields, rolling hills and dense forests.

We crossed from Austria into Slovenia. Sometime later, with a stop coming up, we saw a lady with eight children, between the ages of 7 and 9 years old, line up in the hallway outside our compartment, preparing to get off. Since it was the weekend, we assumed she was not a teacher but perhaps a mother with her children and some of their friends. The train stopped and when it started moving again we heard shouts of distress and immediately knew some children had not gotten off in time. Bill jumped up and went to where they were standing in shock and disbelief. Bill did not speak Slovenian of course and they spoke no English. Bill motioned for them to follow him and put them in the empty compartment next to ours. He motioned for them to stay. I watched them while Bill went in search of a conductor. It was a long train with many cars and he went from car to car saying “Does anyone speak English? Does anyone know where the conductor is?” With every passing second we were getting farther from their missed stop. He finally found two conductors sitting in a small compartment doing paperwork. They understood enough English to figure out the problem and jumped up and followed him back to the compartment. They took over and shortly we made an unscheduled stop at a very small railway station where the station master in a red hat was waiting outside. The conductors handed over the children to him and we were on our way again. Thank heavens Bill took immediate action. Hopefully they were all easily reunited. Imagine the horror that woman felt when she realized not all the children had gotten off the train! The automatic doors close quickly.

After all that excitement we reached Ljubljana, (pop 280,000) the capital of Slovenia. Bill and I actually visited here in 2016 while on a bus tour of Europe. Along with Slovenian, the people often speak English, Italian and more likely, German. Slovenia has a relatively low rate of tourism. In 2016, Ljubljana was awarded the title of European Green Capital and in 2017 this small country was named the world’s most sustainable country. We saw many people riding bikes. It is very expensive to own, and park, a car here. The city has a unique feel of both Central European and Mediterranean. It also felt like a university town with many young people walking around. Slovenia is part of the European Union and therefore uses euros like other European countries. Certainly makes it easy on tourists who do not have to exchange currency while in each country. Slovenia was formerly part of Yugoslavia, along with Croatia and declared formal independence in 1991. The city suffered a devastating earthquake in 1895.

There was so much to see here, all within walking distance of our hotel. And the intermittent rainy weather continued. 

Closest to our hotel was the Old Town or medieval area of Ljubljana. The immediate thing we noticed is all the graffiti. Everywhere! Why so much graffiti on such pretty buildings? Why was it allowed? We were told they consider it an art form. Not encouraged but not against the law. They do frown on any graffiti that would be considered offensive or vulgar. After the first shock on day one, by the third day we hardly noticed.

There are several famous bridges in this area as the Ljubljana River curves and winds through the city. One is the Triple Bridge. The first bridge was built in 1842 and then in 1931 the famous architect Joze Plecnik added two pedestrian side bridges and furnished all three bridges with 642 stone balustrades and lamps, adding a Venetian flair. The architectural designs of Joze Plecnik are found throughout Ljubljana as well as in Vienna and Prague. The Triple Bridge connects the oldest part of town with the more modern area. We noticed that there is no graffiti in the newer, more modern section of the city.

Three Bridges

The city with ornate architecture and cafe lined cobblestone streets has sometimes been compared to a fairy tale, complete with a castle on the hill.

Ljubljana Castle, standing on a hill above the city for about 900 years

A popular meeting place for townspeople is Preseren Square.

Near here is the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation which was built in the 17th century and underwent renovations in the 19th century. The interior has six side altars. A glass fronted coffin contains the remains of Saint Deodatus. We did not go inside.

Dragon Bridge is one of the places we most remember from our 2016 visit. Built in 1901, there are four green dragons or gargoyles crouched on the pillars of the bridge and 16 smaller dragon statues, all appearing to protect the castle in the background. A dragon is on the city’s coat of arms and their flag. It is the symbol of the city, signifying power, courage and wisdom.

Continuing the theme of bridges, Cobblers Bridge was built by Plecnik between 1931 and 1932. It was once a covered wooden bridge providing space for cobblers’ workshops, hence the name. 

The magnificent National Museum of Slovenia was built in 1888.

The  Cathedral of St Nicholas was erected between 1701 and 1708.

The Town Hall was built in the late 1400’s and renovated in 1718.

It was late in the day when we walked around the large Central Market and they were starting to close up for the day.

We walked to the Ljubljana Skyscraper which would make New Yorkers laugh at the term “skyscraper”. Their skyscraper is a 13 story building built in 1933. When it was built it was the ninth tallest building in Europe. We took the elevator to the top floor where there was a viewing deck all the way around the building with nice views of Ljubljana.

Of course we couldn’t miss walking by the U.S. Embassy. Bill asked one of the Embassy workers walking outside why the flag was at half staff but he didn’t know. The building was first conceived in 1897 by Vienna architect Alfred Bayer, the United States Embassy opened here in December 17, 1999.

The National and University Library was certainly a strange looking building. It was built between 1936 and 1941, also a Joze Plecnik design.

Another famous bridge is Butcher’s Bridge. It is here that lovers seal their love forever with a lock and then throw the key into the river. The bridge is full of love locks.

Strangely, one statue nearby is of Adam and Eve, showing them after they were banished from the Garden of Eden. The bridge is named for the many butchers who once lined the bridge selling meat.

While looking for a geocache we found the Slovenian national anthem carved into the middle of a pedestrian walkway. Perhaps if we did that throughout the United States, more people would remember the words of our anthem!

One evening we went to dinner and our young waiter spoke such good English, I asked him where he learned English. Turns out he is a student at the University of Ljubljana and is studying computer science with a concentration in graphic design. He had a great time discussing computer technology and computer programs with Bill. He would have talked longer but had to get back to work. 

The next day we were sitting on a bench discussing where to eat lunch and a lady in her late fifties quickly stopped in front of us. She heard us speaking and said it was so good to hear people speaking English. Three months ago she sold everything and moved to Slovenia. She no longer had any family in the U.S. but had aunts, uncles and cousins in Slovenia so she decided to move there. We chatted for over 30 minutes. She said she loves it there, but she sure seemed happy to hear English. She is taking classes to learn Slovenian. She said she misses her car the most. In Slovenia it is very hard and very expensive to get a driver’s license. You have to pay $1,500 to attend a mandatory drivers school and pass many tests. I think they just don’t want people driving in Slovenia. 

Some thoughts on Europe so far:

  • Everyone smokes too much everywhere – – Italy, Austria, Slovenia. They have cigarette vending machines on the streets and it appears any age can buy them. 
  • It is cheaper to order wine with a meal than a soft drink. 
  • Not as many European’s speak English as we thought. A misconception on our part. 
  • Slovenian men and women are tall. 
  • If you order tap water, and only tap water to drink, they charge you 50 to 75 cents for it. If you order wine or a soft drink, they will also give you tap water at no charge. 
  • A bottle of water that is not carbonated is called “still water”. Took us a while to figure that out in the grocery store. 
  • In Slovenia most stores, including grocery stores, and many restaurants are closed on Sunday. 
  • Whether in Italy, Austria or Slovenia, you will always hear church bells ringing throughout the day. 
  • If you try to eat dinner in a restaurant before 6:00, they will tell you the kitchen hasn’t opened yet. If you wait too late, the restaurants are all full. 
  • The description on the menu doesn’t always match what you get. Surprise!! 

Next up: Train ride to Trieste, Italy and a two night stay there