Continuing with our time in Yachats at the Tillicum Beach Campground, we were relieved to finally have the smoky haze gone and see sunshine and clear skies. We drove seven miles south to the Cape Perpetua Headland which at 800 feet is the highest point accessible by car on the Oregon coast.  It was a fairly clear day and there were beautiful views extending 37 miles along the Oregon coastline. Captain James Cook first sighted the Headland in 1778 and named it after Saint Perpetua. 

In 1933 President Franklin D. Roosevelt formed the Civilian Conservation Corps and Cape Perpetua was a base camp.  The CCC’s built a stone structure which we were able to stand in at the overlook. They chose to build this structure here because of the magnificent views. The stone structure served as a lookout for enemy ships and planes during WWII. 

One day we were out geocaching and whale watching and stopped to pick some blackberries.  In a short time we had enough for a cobbler. Oregon produces nearly 100% of the nation’s commercial blackberries, black raspberries and boysenberries. They also grow more than 70 million pounds of blueberries a year. 

We spent quite a bit of time stopping at viewpoints looking for whales, often with much success. 

One day we took chairs and sat at a viewpoint watching and waiting. As you can see from this picture, it was very chilly.  

We could see whale watching tour boats circling around which meant whales were close by. It takes time and patience when watching for them. 

Their pattern is usually they surface and blow or spout to replenish their oxygen supply.  The number of blows depends on how many minutes they have been down, one blow for every minute down. The spout or blow shoots nearly twelve feet high, expelling 400 liters of air in a single blast. They then dive below the surface for three to five minutes and swim 300 to 400 yards. They then come up for another series of blows. 

If they are frightened or sense danger they may stay down for 30 minutes. Sometimes they dive and can reappear a quarter of a mile away, so you really have to have a keen eye as you search the horizon. Some whales “spyhop” which means they lift their heads above the surface of the water to get a better view of their surroundings and spy on local whale watching tour boats. Whales have the largest brain of any animal on earth and they are very intelligent and curious. Those whales sure are quick which makes it really hard to get a good picture! 

the whales pass twice a year while migrating north in the early spring and south in early winter. Those are the best time to see the whales but there are some resident gray whales who hang out in this area year round, feeding close to shore.  There are volunteers at 24 viewpoints along the coast from Ilwaco, Washington to Crescent City, California to answer questions and help visitors spot whales. 

Our last day in the area we drove north to Cape Foulweather which was discovered by Captain James Cook in 1778.  The weather was particularly stormy the day Cook arrived with winds of 100 MPH so he named the area Cape Foulweather.  Winds of 100 MPH are not uncommon here during storms. 

This area is the first geographic location named on his voyage to the north Pacific coast.  Captain Cook’s accounts of this voyage were published and aroused world wide interest which was followed by the fur trade. The views here are stunning. 

BYE! 

Next up: Florence, OR and huge sand dunes

After two and a half months in Washington state it was time to continue south back into Oregon. We really hated to leave gorgeous South Beach and our campsite overlooking the ocean. As we pulled out early in the morning there was already someone waiting to grab the site.

We headed south down highway 101.  We spent one night at the Elks Lodge in Hoquiam, WA and the next morning we crossed the Astoria-Megler Bridge which spans the Columbia River. It is the longest continuous truss bridge in North America. In the middle of the bridge is the state line between Washington and Oregon. And just like that, we were back in Oregon!  

Unfortunately it was a foggy morning and we were unable to get good pictures of the bridge or view from the bridge of Astoria. 

We stopped in Seaside for a two night stay and then drove to Tillicum Beach Campground located in the Siuslaw National Forest for a five night stay.  

US Highway 101 on the Oregon Coast

Along the way we passed the 45th Parallel, the halfway point between the Equator and the North Pole. We were last at the Tillicum campground in June 2014. Our view of the ocean here wasn’t quite as nice as South Beach, but we could see the water and hear the waves crashing.

Tillicum National Forest campground is located just a few miles from the tiny town of Yachats, pop 700. Our first couple days there the sky was hazy and smoky from the Canadian wildfires and we were under an air quality alert. We drove around the beach at Yachats but it was hard to get any pictures through the haze.

We definitely prefer the Oregon coast over the Washington coast. The views driving down the coast are better, the beaches are sandy rather than rocky and the beaches are much more accessible. The beach at the Tillicum campground could be easily reached by walking down some steps. 

Even though the haze was still in the area the next day we drove north to see two lighthouses. We crossed the beautiful Yaquina Bay Bridge into Newport and visited the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, the second oldest standing lighthouse on the Oregon coast.  

Built in 1871 it was decommissioned in 1874. Yes, after only three years! It is the only existing lighthouse with the living quarters attached and the only historic wooden Oregon lighthouse still standing. It was restored to a working lighthouse in 1996 as a privately maintained by the Oregon Parks and Recreation as a navigation aid for the United States Coast Guard. Today a steady white light shines from dusk to dawn. 

Next we drove to Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area.  The Yaquina Head Lighthouse located there, is also called the Cape Foulweather Lighthouse because when it was built they mistakenly thought they were at Cape Foulweather. At 93 feet, it is the tallest lighthouse in Oregon. It was first lit in 1873 and was automated in 1966.  It is still active today. 

We first stopped at the Interpretive Center where we saw exhibits on whales and watched a movie about the area. 

Even the Doors have Lighthouse Silhouettes

We then drove to the lighthouse which has beautiful views. 

We could see whales spouting in the distance, seals lounging on rocks and lots of birds. 

As we walked up towards the lighthouse we noticed a bad smell. At first we thought it was from the seals. Then in the distance we saw huge rocks with  seabirds sitting on them. The rocks were covered in white bird poop. That was the source of the smell. Yuk! 

We read that the common murres bird colonies here are the most rapidly growing on the Oregon coast. 

Sunset from our beach side campsite. 

Next up : more time on the Oregon coast