Category Archives: National Landmark

National landmark or historical place

July 8, 2016 Cape Cod, Mass. Part 2

A man may stand there and put all America behind him.” Henry David Thoreau
After seven days in Sandwich we moved further east in Cape Cod to Nickerson State Park in the town of Orleans.  We only reserved two nights at this park since it was dry camping.
20160707_151108We had a lot to see in this area and a short time so we had no time to waste.  Bill wanted to visit the Chatham Marconi Maritime Center in nearby Chatham.  Here numerous exhibits and short films tells the story of Marconi’s role in the history of wireless communication.  20160707_150752

Marconi’s original 1914 TransAtlantic Wireless Receiving Station where telegrams were sent from ship to shore was on display. Exhibits showed how the U.S. Navy used the station during WWII as well as displaying a highly classified Enigma cypher machine used by the German Navy for communications.20160707_15082320160707_150109
20160709_110033On Saturday we had a busy day exploring the Cape Cod National Seashore Park and the small towns and villages in the upper part of Cape Cod.
Cape Cod National Seashore has two Visitors Centers at each end of the park and we stopped at both of them.  At the first center we toured the museum about the history of Cape Cod and saw a movie detailing how the it  was formed. Cape Cod is a glacial deposit always undergoing natural changes as water and wind move sand along the shoreline, tearing away some places and building up others. The harsh North Atlantic winters contributes to these changes which can quickly take place. Native people began living on Cape Cod about 10,000 years ago. The Pilgrims arrived here in 1620 and briefly stayed before sailing across the bay to Plymouth.
20160709_115333We then stopped at the first Marconi Station Site where the first transatlantic wireless communication was sent from President Theodore Roosevelt to King Edward VII of England. Marconi built his first towers here in 1901. As just described, the forces of nature has eroded much of this high cliff to the extent that the towers and station had to be removed. We visited the plaques and exhibits now placed a safe distance from the edge of the cliffs.20160709_114343
20160709_14025220160709_135347Next we drove to Provincetown at the end of Cape Cod.  Here we found a Pilgrim Tower to commemorate the first landing of the Pilgrims.  We then went to First Landing Park where the Pilgrims first set foot on American soil. (No, it wasn’t at Plymouth Rock).  The area wasn’t to their liking so after a short time on the cape they sailed across the bay to Plymouth.20160709_13543720160709_135310
20160709_15374520160709_153643Afterwards we drove back towards home, stopping at three more historic places.  At Corn Hill there is a plaque commem-orating the place where starving Pilgrims stumbled across a stockpile of corn the Indians had left for later use.  The plaque says the Pilgrims said they didn’t know what would have become of them if they had not found the corn. I am sure hungry Indians were not happy to find the corn missing and we read that the Pilgrims later paid restitution to the Native Americans.
20160709_164611Next was Encounter Beach.  Here a plaque commemorates the place where the Pilgrims and Native Americans first encountered each other.  Bill and I both love historical places like this.
Our last stop of the day, very close to home was Nauset Beach.  It is here at Nauset Beach in Orleans, Mass. that a German submarine fired on a tug, four unarmed barges and sank them during WWI.

20160709_173258Nauset Beach is the only place on American soil attacked during WWI.
At several of the historical sites we visited today we found geocaches. What fun!
I mentioned in an earlier blog about meeting Bob and Sue during our trip to Europe and the wonderful afternoon we spent at a cookout at their house.  Our good luck continued since it turned out Sue’s mother and stepfather live 5 minutes from Nickerson State Park where we were staying.  So Friday night we went to Earl and Bea’s house and had a delicious dinner and were able to spend more time with Bob and Sue.  A great time was had by all!  We could get use to this!
Next stop: Boston area.  Can’t wait for more history coming up!!

 

July 1, 2016 Cape Cod, Mass. Part 1

20160707_153640We left Sturbridge, Massachusetts and headed to our campground at Sandwich, Massachusetts on Cape Cod.  We knew it was the Friday of a long holiday weekend so we left Sturbridge early to beat the traffic.  All was good until we were about two miles from the Sagamore Bridge from the mainland onto the Cape.  It took us an hour in stop and go traffic to get across the bridge.  We were glad to arrive at our campground in Sandwich and get set up.
20160707_120526Sandwich was incorpo-rated in 1638 and is the oldest town on Cape Cod. While in Sandwich we visited the Cape Cod Canal Visitors Center.  The canal is an artificial waterway connecting Cape Cod Bay to Buzzards Bay and is part of the Atlantic Intra-coastal Waterway.  The seven mile long canal moves along the narrow neck of land joining Cape Cod to the mainland.  It is approximately 480 feet wide and 32 feet deep, cutting off 65-166 miles of coastal travel around the tip of the Cape.  Another benefit of the canal was no longer having to sail around the treacherous outer shores of Cape Cod.  At the height of the commercial shipping era from 1880 to 1900 there was nearly one shipwreck every week.   Approximately 14,000 people use the canal yearly.
It was interesting to learn that in1623, Miles Standish of the Plymouth Colony scouted the land for a potential canal route but the idea was too much for the settlers to consider.  Then in 1697 the General Court of Massachusetts considered the first formal proposal to build a canal but no action was taken.  More energetic planning with surveys took place in 1776 with George Washington but none of these actions was completed.
Commercial construction began in 1909, it was first open to vessel traffic in 1914, and has been operated by the Army Corps of Engineers since 1928.  It is designed to be a sea level waterway and is operated 24 hours a day, toll free.  There are no locks even though it connects two bays with very different tidal cycles and ranges.  Two highway bridges and one railway bridge cross the canal from the mainland to the Cape.  During World War I 20160707_120448the canal was used to move shipments when German sub-marines were off the coast of Cape Cod. We enjoyed touring the Visitors Center with their friendly volunteer, movie about the building of the Canal, and numerous exhibits. As a side note, Bill met and talked with some people later in the day who grew up and live on the Cape and they think the canal is too expensive to maintain and keep running and it should be filled in.

20160703_16083120160703_14114420160703_141039On our trip to Europe a couple months ago we met Bob and Sue, a couple who live near Cape Cod.  When they learned we would be visiting their area this summer, they invited us to stop by and visit.  On Sunday we were invited to a cookout at their home.  We had a great time meeting Sue’s mom and step-father, some of their friends and neighbors and of course their adorable bulldog Stella.  Thanks Bob and Sue!!

Another day we drove 34 miles along beautiful, scenic Route 6A (Old King’s Highway), passing through quaint towns and villages. Centuries ago the Route was a Native American Trail and then as Colonial settlements grew, this route became an extension of the Plymouth Colony and later a major route for Cape Cod. Route 6A ranks among the top scenic byways in the country. One thing that struck us was how patriotic all of Cape Cod looked for the Fourth of July holiday with so many homes and businesses displaying red, white and blue buntings and flags. Back in the days of the early settlers the wealthy merchants and sea captains did not covet waterfront property like people do today, so most of the older homes are along this highway rather than the shoreline. Needless to say the area has strict town codes and many efforts have been made to preserve these old homes. It is the newer homes you see along the waterfront.
20160705_13212320160705_12350620160705_12194320160705_12192020160705_13004720160705_13205220160705_14331820160705_143326Cape Cod is divided into fifteen towns, and within those towns are villages. For example Hyannis is a village in the town of Barnstable.
We stopped in the village of Hyannis to visit the JFK Hyannis Museum. This is not the Kennedy Presidential Library but a small museum focusing on the Kennedy family and their time on Cape Cod.
We stopped by the JFK Memorial at Veteran’s Beach. While there we looked for a geocache at the nearby Korean Memorial. We quickly discovered a young couple from Germany were also hunting for the same geocache so we had fun finding it together!
We took pictures in picturesque Wychmere Harbor, one of the most photographed places on the Cape.
The town of Yarmouth is the Cape’s second oldest town with more than 600 buildings of historic architectural significance. At one time more than fifty sea captains had homes in Yarmouth and a one mile stretch of road was known as Captain’s Row. In South Yarmouth we found an eight sided windmill. The windmill was built in 1791 in North Dennis on Cape Cod by Judah Baker to grind corn. In 1886 it was moved to South Yarmouth. Since 1953 the town of Yarmouth has been responsible for the windmill. It has undergone extensive restoration but still contains the original mechanical equipment. It is located in a beautiful setting near the Bass River adjacent to Nantucket Sound.

Our next blog posting will be about our day on Martha’s Vineyard.20160707_16101320160707_16113920160707_15375720160707_153705

June 28, 2016 Springfield, MA & Hartford, CT

We left the campground in Accord, New York and drove to Sturbridge, Massachusetts.  The campground was full and crowded and we were thankful to be placed in one of the few satellite TV friendly sites.  We can tell the northeast is going to be a big challenge to find satellite TV friendly sites among all the beautiful trees.
20160628_131622Our stop in Sturbridge was related to Bill’s interest in guns and radios.  On Tuesday we made the drive to nearby Springfield, Massachusetts to tour the Springfield Armory.  For almost two centuries this place overlooking the Colorado River was an important place for the development and manufacture of arms for American soldiers.  It started as a place where skilled craftsmen built piece by piece one flintlock musket at a time into a center pioneering mass production techniques into finally an institute famous for weapon research and development.
In 1777 a major arsenal was established here after early Revolutionary War battles in the northern states showed the need for a place to store weapons and ammunition that was within reach of the American troops but out of British hands.  A smaller armory for the south was built at Harper’s Ferry but destroyed during the Civil War.   In 1795 the Springfield Armory began weapon production.
20160628_145612In 1891 The Experimental Department was established at the Springfield Armory with the job of examining and developing all subsequent U.S. rifle designs.  In 1936 the Armory began mass production of the first successful semi-automatic rifle to be put in military service, the M1 rifle designed by John Garand.  During WWI the Armory produced over 265,000 bolt-action Model 1903 rifles for American troops.  It is still considered one of the most accurate weapons ever made.  The installation of mass production machinery in the early 1930’s allows for the manufacture of 3.5 million M1 rifles through 1945.  20160628_145547 It was deemed by General George S. Patton to be “the greatest battle implement ever devised”.  In 1943 the workforce at the Armory totaled 13,500 employees, of which 43% were women.20160628_150038
In 1964 the Defense Department decided that private suppliers could provide necessary weapons and in 1968 the Armory was closed.  In 1960 this “Arsenal of Freedom” was designated a national historic landmark and in 1974 Congress named it the Springfield Armory National Historic Site.
20160630_110658On Thursday we drove into Windsor, Connecticut so Bill could tour the Vintage Radio and Communication Museum of Connecticut.  The museum showed the history of electric communication and how it has changed our lives over the years, including radios, records and television.20160630_11080520160630_11090320160630_11124720160630_11192120160630_11203320160630_12061120160630_11150720160630_11243920160630_11250320160630_11294520160630_11302920160630_113155
20160630_102414We were quite surprised to find a lobster roll on the McDonalds menu in Connecticut so Bill couldn’t resist having one for lunch.  He said it was quite good.
20160630_152536We then made the short drive to Hartford, passing the state capitol building, so Bill could tour the ARRL (American Radio Relay League) headquarters.  He enjoyed visiting with some fellow amateur radio enthusiasts.20160630_141231

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June 26, 2016 Hyde Park, New York

Our 2016 summer plans were unexpectedly delayed for health reasons.  As some of you know, when we returned from Europe I had a biopsy done on two thyroid nodules.  We were shocked when the results came back showing possible cancer.  So we canceled our plans on the New Jersey coast and sightseeing in Philadelphia and I had my thyroid removed on June 10 at the Martha Jefferson Hospital in Charlottesville, Virginia.  During this unexpected delay we were blessed to be able to stay at my dear friend Jamie’s house.  After a tense ten days of waiting, the pathology report came back with no cancer.  We were once again on our way!
After a short stay in Northern Virginia to have a minor repair done on the RV, we headed north to Pennsylvania.  We stayed two days in Lebanon not far from Hershey.  Since we both had been to Hershey and didn’t want to get in the summer tourist crowds and I was still technically recuperating from surgery, we were content to just relax at home.
20160625_193130Next stop was in Accord, New York. We arrived on a Saturday which happened to be the weekend of the ARRL (Amateur Radio) yearly Field Day.  I stayed home and rested in the air conditioning and Bill made a short drive to the location of the nearest Field Day and enjoyed a few hours with fellow amateur radio enthusiasts.20160625_193218
20160626_12290020160626_122927Sunday we drove to Hyde Park to visit the Franklin D. Roosevelt Birthplace and Presidential Library and Museum.  One of our goals in our travels is to visit as many presidential libraries as possible.  On the way we crossed the Hudson River on the Franklin D. Roosevelt Mid-Hudson Bridge.  The Roosevelt Library opened in 1941 making it the first presidential library and the only one used by a sitting president.  20160626_165256It was designed by FDR and is on the grounds of the Roosevelt estate and a short walk from his birthplace.  This year is the 75th anniversary of its opening.  20160626_170110When Roosevelt donated his papers to the Library, he set the precedent for public ownership of presidential papers.  The library has over 17 million pages of documents and over 150,000 photographs.  20160626_134506The Museum which is part of the library has many exhibits detailing the lives of Franklin and Eleanor, the Great Depression, the New Deal, and World War II.
First we took a guided tour of the home where FDR was born and lived throughout his life.  20160626_145916He deeded his home to the National Park Service in 1943. We learned he was a collector of stamps, coins, rare books, ship models, and birds.  As an only child, he led a very privileged childhood and details were given on the role his domineering mother played in his life and marriage.  20160626_153333His physical struggles due to paralysis from the waist down due to polio in 1921, and the great efforts to hide it from the public were discussed.
The Presidential Museum had many exhibits focusing heavily on the New Deal and World War II, including his unprecedented four terms as president.  It was from the museum he held some of his “Fireside Chats”.

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FDR Oval Office Desk

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Eleanor Roosevelt’s role as reformer, teacher, journalist, political activist, advocate for the underprivileged and delegate to the United Nations was detailed.  Today, she is known as “First Lady of the World”.
20160626_164445The Museum did not hold back as they described Eleanor’s difficult childhood with a critical mother, her struggles with a domineering mother-in-law, and her anguish over FDR’s long time relationship with Lucy Mercer, who was with FDR when he died in 1945 from a cerebral hemorrhage.
20160626_150149We also visited the gravesites of Franklin and Eleanor in the nearby Rose Garden.  At his request, the markers are plain white markers with only their names and dates.  FDR’s grave is the one with the flag.
While this was not our favorite presidential library, we certainly learned a lot about the life of Franklin Delano Roosevelt and came away with a greater knowledge of this time in American history.

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September 18, 2015 Flagstaff and Phoenix, AZ

It was hard to leave Page with beautiful Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend and Monument Valley.  What a gorgeous area of Arizona!!  The weather was really hot so we decided to spend five days in Flagstaff, which at an elevation of almost 7,000 feet was going to be cooler.

We thought we would just hang out in Flagstaff and enjoy the weather, but there turned out to be more to do than we expected.

A short drive from our campground was Wupatki National Monument, Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument and Walnut Canyon National Monument.

IMG_1364Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument is a 2,200 square mile volcanic field with more than 400 cinder cones.  Sunset Crater is the youngest volcano in the area, having exploded in 1065 AD.  Because it was pretty hot and we had already experienced a lot of lava fields at Craters of the Moon in Idaho and in Hawaii, we didn’t spend a lot of time here.  We saw a movie at the Visitors Center and we found a really cool geocache.  The geocache was located inside an extinct fumerole (an opening in the earth’s crust which emits steam and gases).  Since the fumerole was extinct it was no longer emitting steam and gases, but I was still surprised Bill jumped down into the fumerole to find this geocache.  Really, Bill??!!IMG_1362IMG_1361

IMG_1360Within Wupatki National Monument are 800 ruins, the homes and villages of the Sinagua and Ancient Puebloans.  These ancient people felt the warning tremors before the volcano erupted in 1065 AD.  The lava flows forced them to vacate the land they had cultivated for over 400 years, and they moved to Wupatki and Walnut Canyon.  Here they lived for another 100 years before moving to other areas of the Colorado plateau.  The agricultural potential of the area actually improved after the eruption because the thin layer of ash absorbed moisture and helped prevent evaporation in the hot, dry landscape.  By 1250 AD the pueblos in Wupatki stood empty.  While there we walked a paved trail which took us up close to several dwellings.IMG_1352IMG_1353IMG_1355IMG_1358

In the early nineteenth century settlers and visitors to the Flagstaff area explored the Wupatki and Sunset Crater National Monuments, looting the area for souvenirs and damaging the landscape.  In 1928 filmmakers planned to use explosives at Sunset Crater to create a landslide for filming.  This led to a public outcry and a push to preserve the area.  In 1930 President Herbert Hoover established Sunset Crater National Monument as part of the national park system.  Wupatki had already been designated a national monument in 1924 after extensive looting of the dwellings.

IMG_1365I think our favorite trip was to nearby Walnut Canyon National Monument.  Here there are dwellings sheltered by overhanging cliffs inhabited here in Walnut Canyon for over 800 years.  The people, known as Sinagua, meaning without water in Spanish, lived by farming, hunting deer and small game, and gathering plants.  It is amazing how they were able to turn this dry land into a homeland.  It is not known why they left, perhaps due to a severe drought.  It is thought they traveled southeast and assimilated into the Hopi culture.

In the 1880’s the railroad brought souvenir hunters to the region, and like Wupatki and Sunset Crater,  looting and destruction of the area caused alarm and dismay.  In 1915 Walnut Canyon was protected as a national monument.IMG_20150921_113003IMG_20150921_105715PANO_20150921_120825

We intended to only walk the Rim Trail around the top of the canyon which would have given us a distant view of the cliff dwellings.  The day was cloudy and cooler, so we decided to walk the Island Trail which was listed as a strenuous trail mostly because of the 240 steps each way which would take us closer to some of the cliff dwellings.  As it turned out it was more moderate than strenuous and we found the walk pleasant and very informative.IMG_20150921_115331IMG_20150921_110159IMG_20150921_111032IMG_20150921_112243IMG_20150921_111259IMG_20150921_112607

We left Flagstaff and drove to Phoenix and our elevation dropped 6,000 feet.  Boy could we feel a difference in temperature!!  Now the temperature climbed to 111 degrees during the day.  After several days of this, the local weatherman said it was going to be cooler with temperatures “only” around 100 degrees.  We were practically the only ones in the campground resort.  The snowbirds will not be arriving for at least another month.

PicsArt_10-08-06.54.23While in Phoenix we did drive into the downtown area on a Sunday to see the state capitol building.  We found some geocaches including one at the Liberty Bell located on the capitol grounds.  This Liberty Bell is identical in dimensions and tone to the Liberty Bell in Philadelphia.  The bell is one of 53 cast in France in 1950 and given to the United States government by several copper mining companies. PicsArt_10-08-06.58.20 It is dedicated to us, free citizens in a free country.  Every September the Bell is moved to Gilbert, Arizona where it is displayed as part of Constitution Week.  Close to the capitol grounds we found Wesley Bolin Memorial Plaza where there are many memorials honoring important people in Arizona history as well as memorializing wars and significant historical events.  We found a geocache at the USS Arizona anchor (see our post of the USS Arizona memorial).   The 16,000 pound anchor was part of the ship which was bombed and sank during the attack on Pearl Harbor.  The ship still lies at the bottom of Pearl Harbor.  In the plaza is also the USS Arizona signal mast and gun barrel.  Inside the capitol museum is a superstructure salvaged from the ship and the US flag which flew on the battleship when it sank.PicsArt_10-08-06.55.00PicsArt_10-08-07.00.19

Next we head to Yuma, Arizona for a few days before we begin our slow trek back east.

September 15, 2015 Page, Arizona Part 2

PANO_20150915_140001After our Antelope Canyon tour we drove over to the trailhead to Horseshoe Bend.  We had seen pictures of this beautiful place and it was another place high on our list to visit.  Though not a long hike, this wasn’t an easy hike since it was a hot day and involved a steep climb up, then down a sandy hill and a steep climb up the hill back to the car.  Horseshoe Bend is a horseshoe shaped turn of the Colorado River.  Once you reach the end of the trail you are standing on a rocky overlook 4,200 feet above sea level.  IMG_20150915_135944IMG_20150915_135927The Colorado River is 3,200 feet above sea level so there was a dizzying 1,000 foot drop from the viewpoint to the water below.  With the rocky ledges and no handrails or fencing, it made me more than a little nervous.  IMG_20150915_140210I was definitely out of my comfort zone and Bill had to encourage me to smile for this picture.  Do you see the fear on my face?   Bill wasn’t fazed by the height or the drop.  Horseshoe Bend is a beautiful place but I was glad to get back to the car.IMG_20150915_140535

A video for you: https://youtu.be/fyWAPgM_9nM

IMG_20150915_123250We also visited the Glen Canyon Dam, which was started in 1957 and didn’t reach full capacity until 1980.  Lake Powell reaches a depth of over 500 feet and is capable of producing 1,320,000 kilowatts of electricity.  The Dam serves as a major water source for a number of states.
Lake Powell is 186 miles long with over 2,000 miles of shoreline, more than the west coast of the United States.  It has over 90 canyons with five rivers feeding into Lake Powell.  Major John Wesley Powell led an expedition into the area in the summer of 1869, exploring the area now known as Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area on his way to exploring the Grand Canyon.IMG_20150915_125333IMG_20150915_123043IMG_20150915_123621

IMG_1273We are also including pictures of the Navajo Bridge, a lovely bridge we crossed on our way to Page from Jacob Lake several days ago.IMG_1281IMG_1275IMG_1280IMG_1277

August 15, 2015 Canyonlands N. P. & Dead Horse Point S.P. Utah

20150816_065519Our last day in Moab we set out very early to try to beat the heat.  The red rock walls surrounding our campsite were beautiful in the early morning light and at sunset as the sun lit up the walls to a bright red.  We had early morning guests to greet us as we were getting in the car.20150816_065759IMG_1013

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These Buttes are named after the Civil War ironclad ships

IMG_1020Canyonlands National Park and Dead Horse Point State Park were both about 45 minutes from Moab in the same direction so we decided to visit both in one day.

Canyonlands National Park, established in 1964 by President Lyndon Johnson, has canyons, mesas and buttes carved by the Colorado and Green Rivers and their tributaries.  There are four areas of the park with “Island In The Sky” being the most accessible, hike-able and favorite of tourists.  Island in the Sky sits atop a massive 1,500 foot mesa with beautiful views and a twenty mile scenic drive, making it truly feel like an island in the sky.IMG_1021IMG_1024IMG_1028IMG_1034

Once again we used Gypsy Guide as our tour guide as we drove the scenic drive through the park.  We were able to get in two hikes before the heat became unbearable by starting early.  First we did a short hike to Mesa Arch.

IMG_1058A much longer hike took us to the Grand View Point Overlook with amazing views.  We had to climb at times over “slickrock” which is the name the early settlers gave the rock because their horses’ metal shoes couldn’t grip the rocks’ surface.

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The trail is well marked with three square blocks

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Zoomed in view of Green River, the Colorado River was not view-able from the trail

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Here is a video of the view: https://youtu.be/smzHZQlX49s

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A jeep trail that leads to the Colorado River

IMG_1075On the way home we stopped by Dead Horse Point State Park.  The overlook, 2,000 feet above the Colorado River, provides breathtaking views of Canyonlands National Park in the distance.  From the viewpoint we could look across the canyon and see the cliff where Thelma and Louise drove their car off the edge at the end of their movie.  Legend says that around the turn of the century cowboys herded wild mustangs roaming the mesa top, surrounded by sheer cliffs on all sides, across the narrow neck of land only 40 yards wide and onto the point.  The neck was then fenced off with branches and brush to make a corral.  However one time, for some unknown reason the horses were left corralled on the water-less point where they died of thirst with the Colorado River within view below them.IMG_1080IMG_1085

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Colorado River

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Colorado River

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Movies filmed in Dead Horse State Park include “The Lone Ranger (2013), Mission Impossible II, Thelma and Louise”.
Here is a video of the view: https://youtu.be/cdQ6LFRX88w

Colorado River Trivia:

  • The Colorado River supplies water to the states of Utah, Colorado, Arizona, California, Nevada and New Mexico.  It starts as a small trickle of snowmelt high in the Colorado Rocky Mountains and begins a 1,450 mile journey through mountain canyons and three deserts.
  • More water is exported from the Colorado River’s 250,000 square mile basin than any other river basin in the world.
  • Seventy percent or more of its water is siphoned off to irrigate 3.5 million acres of crops.
  • At one time every drop of water was pumped or diverted to cities and farms in the U.S. and Mexico before it had a chance to reach the end of its 1,450 mile journey to the ocean.
  • Today that has been changed due to federal laws, court decisions, contracts and regulatory guidelines, including agreements between the U.S. and Mexico which allows Mexico to store water in U.S. reservoirs.

August 14, 2015 Arches National Park, Utah

We left Salt Lake City and headed to Moab, Utah.  We originally planned on staying in Salina, Utah overnight because of the long distance to Moab.  But when we stopped for lunch Bill felt we were making good time and decided he would like to continue the rest of the way to Moab.  We passed through some interesting scenery along the way.

We arrived in Moab with temperatures in the upper 90’s to 105 everyday.  We had looked at the weather forecast and were worried about the heat spell for the next week.  We knew from looking at the campground online that there was no shade.  With all that in mind we reduced our reservation from 7 to 4 days when we arrived.  Just as expected we were directed to a nice site which had no shade.  Even with two rooftop air conditioners it is impossible to keep up with the heat.

IMG_1008Moab, population 5,046, overlooks the Colorado River and is located in a valley surrounded by red cliffs and the La Sal Mountains.  It was a visited by Butch Cassidy and his Wild Bunch as well as author Zane Grey who used the town and surrounding area as the locale for many of his western novels.  There is a brochure devoted just to all the sites in Utah used in films starting in 1939 with “Stagecoach” starring John Wayne followed by “Wagon Master” in 1949 and “Rio Grande” in 1950 starring John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara.  In the Moab/Arches National Park area we have movies such as “The Hulk”, “Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade”, “Lone Ranger” (2013), “Star Trek” (2009), “Thelma and Louise”, “Transformers Age of Extinction”, “Mission Impossible 3” and many more!

In the 1950’s Moab was changed from a quiet agricultural town into a bustling mining and prospecting area with the discovery of uranium.  Today tourism is the main industry.

IMG_1007We had two reasons for coming to Moab.  One was to see Arches National Park and the other was to visit Canyonlands National Park.  We got up early the next morning hoping to beat the heat.  Our destination this day was Arches National Park located three miles from our campground.  We usually stop by the Visitors Center first but we were anxious to get started on our outdoor activities before it got too hot.  When we were in Hawaii we purchased several reasonably priced smartphone audio tours of each island from “Gypsy Guide”.  We felt they did an excellent job and it was like having a personal tour guide in the car.  So we were thrilled to discover Gypsy Guide had tours for both Arches and Canyonlands National Parks.  Bill hooked it up to the car’s Bluetooth so it could be played with the radio. The tour automatically advances based on your GPS location.IMG_0960

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Three Gossips

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Sheep Rock

Arches National Park contains the largest number of natural stone arches in the country with over 2,000.  The park also has beautiful red rock canyons, spires and balanced rocks.  Water and ice, extreme temperatures and underground salt movement over 100 million years are responsible for the beautiful sculptured sandstone rock.  The arches were formed by the weathering of openings in the vertical slabs of sandstone.  Park Rangers consider any opening extending at least three feet in any one direction to be an arch.

IMG_0970Our Gypsy Guide gave us a running commentary on the geology and history of the area as we drove the 36 mile round trip scenic road through the park.  We stopped at many overlooks and hiked to Balanced Rock and several arches, including Delicate Arch.  At Delicate Arch we had a choice of three hikes to see this famous arch.  There was a really short easy walk with a far away view, a moderate hike up a rather steep path over rock steps built into the pathway with a somewhat closer view, and a three mile strenuous hike for a close up view.  We chose the moderate hike and still had a view a long way from the arch.  I must say the appearance of the arch was rather anticlimatic since Delicate Arch is the unofficial symbol of Utah and seen on many of their license plates.  Whew it was hot!IMG_0972IMG_0975

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Normal View of Delicate Arch

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Zoomed view of Delicate Arch

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Turret Arch

We stopped at a neat group of arches called the Windows area.  Bill asked a lady to take our picture.  We struck up a conversation with her and the others in her group.  It is always interesting to hear how extensively people from other countries have toured our country and how well they know English.  This group was from Italy.  She told us she was working at the NIH in Baltimore during the 9/11 attack and how badly she felt for our country.  Currently she is a professor at the University of Bologna, the oldest university in the world.  We love chance meetings with interesting people in our travels!

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Sunny Side of North Window

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South Window

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North and South Windows Together

The next day we stayed home and had a “hot day”, our equivalent of a snow day.  Both days the temperature reached 106 outside by late afternoon.  Too hot to go outside plus we wanted to let our bodies recover from the previous day’s hikes since we were hoping to do some hiking the next day at nearby Canyonlands National Park which will be the topic of our next blog.

Trivia:

  • In 1952 Charles Steen, a young geologist, discovered uranium deposits in the Moab area.  This resulted in a rush of miners to Moab increasing the population by five-fold.  By 1955 there were approximately 800 mines producing high grade ore and Moab was nicknamed “The Uranium Capital of the World”.  However by the mid 1970’s foreign competition and federal regulations put an end to domestic uranium mining.  Sixteen tons of uranium remnants formed a massive pile three miles outside of Moab.  Today trains transport these remnants in covered cars to a permanent disposal site 30 miles north of Moab.  We could see in the distance the long line of train cars waited to be loaded.
  • In 1964 one of the large rock towers in Arches National Park was used in a Chevrolet television commercial featuring a car and a Hollywood model.  The car and nervous model were placed atop the tower by helicopter.  After filming, heavy wind prevented the helicopter from landing to take them back down.  The frightened model had to spend hours stranded in the car waiting for the wind to die down.
  • Airplanes are not allowed to fly over Arches National Park because of concern the sound may damage or break the delicate features.  Breaking the sound barrier in and around Moab is forbidden.
  • Arches became a national monument in 1929 and was then designated a national park in 1971.  It is 76,519 acres or 119 square miles.

 

August 8, 2015 Salt Lake City, Utah

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Salt Lake City

We made the short drive to a private campground located in North Salt Lake City, about six miles from downtown Salt Lake City which we could see in the distance.   What a difference these private campgrounds are from the state, national and forest campgrounds.  We had to get used to the narrow campsites with close proximity to neighbors that are found in most private campgrounds as well as traffic noise from the nearby freeway.

We settled in and then drove to the nearby Honda dealership to have maintenance done on the Honda.  We were very impressed with the people there.  Even though we were not local, just passing through the area and only having required maintenance done, we could not have been treated nicer.

Our first evening in the area we had a terrible storm with heavy rain and high wind.  Even though the forecast also called for severe lightning and hail, we didn’t experience any of that to our relief.

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Family History Library

We drove into downtown Salt Lake City on two separate days so Bill could do some research at the Family History Library.  The library was founded in 1894 and is one of the world’s largest genealogical libraries.  The collection mainly focuses on the United States, Canada, the British Isles and Europe, including Scandinavia, however there are genealogy records from other areas of the world.  While we were there many people of different nationalities walked through the door seeking information.  All Family History Library original records are kept at the Granite Records Vault in the mountains near Little Cottonwood Canyon.  Fortunately today many of the records are computerized.  Anyone is welcome to use the library and it is all free!  The library is 145,000 square feet and has more than 300 computers.  They have birth and death certificates, marriage licenses, census returns, property, probate and cemetery records.  HOWEVER, the Library’s collection focuses on people who lived before 1930 so you will need some older information on your family to begin.  I noticed they also have helpers throughout the library who speak other languages to help non-English speaking guests.

When we arrived we were given a first timer name tag and saw a four minute orientation movie (also available in many languages) about the five story library.  We were then ushered into a room full of computers where we were each given our own personal helper to get us logged in and to show us the ropes.  Create your account at familysearch.org then you can do about 99% of the research from the comfort of your home. There are over 4,500 branches of the library located around the world if you want assistance and/or if you want to use their equipment.  After about an hour of family research I had had enough and I went back to the lobby to work on our blog and read.  “… genealogy is the second most popular hobby in the U.S. after gardening, according to ABC News …”. Genealogy is really more Bill’s passion than mine.

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On May 15, 1829, Joseph Smith and Oliver Cowdery went into the woods

When he finished for the day we explored the downtown area some.  Salt Lake City was founded by the Mormons in 1847 and lies at the foot of the Wasatch Mountains.  It is a beautiful setting.  The Great Salt Lake lies to the northwest and the Great Salt Lake Desert to the west.  By the way, the name of the religion is The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.  Mormon is just a nickname.  Joseph Smith, Jr. said an angel entrusted him with golden plates inscribed with symbols which Smith translated into the Book of Mormon.  Smith advocated polygamy.  Although no more than 4% of the Mormons practiced polygamy, advocacy of it led to problems with non-Mormons wherever they tried to settle.  In search of a place where they could practice their religion without prosecution, they tried settling in Missouri and Illinois.  Smith was arrested, jailed and eventually shot to death.

After Smith’s death the church split into two groups with the group opposed to polygamy forming a “Reorganized Church” and returning to Missouri.  A larger group followed Brigham Young, the second president of the Mormon Church to Utah in 1847, establishing Salt Lake City.  By 1869 more than 60,000 Mormons had immigrated to Utah by covered wagon or handcart.  Also in 1869 the transcontinental railroad was completed linking Utah to both coasts.  They applied for statehood in 1849 but their request was not granted until 1896 after the church abolished polygamy.  By the 1900’s there were over 400 cities in Utah.

The streets downtown are laid out in a grid pattern fanning out from Temple Square, the spiritual and historical headquarters of the Mormon Church.  The streets were designed to be “wide enough for a team of four oxen and a covered wagon to turn around”.  The streets are named for their directional distance from the Temple, such as West Temple, North Temple, South Temple and then Main Street.  So one street south of South Temple is 100 South, next street is 200 South, etc.

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Utah State Capitol Building

With a population of 186,440, Salt Lake City is the state capital of Utah.  We stopped by the beautiful capitol building which sits high on a hill overlooking the city below. The Corinthian style building was completed in 1915 and resembles the National Capitol.

Temple Square is advertised as the number one tourist attraction in Utah.  Three of the buildings on the square were built by pioneers; the six-spired granite Salt Lake Temple which took 40 years to complete, the domed Tabernacle which is home to the Mormon Tabernacle Choir and organ, and the Assembly Hall.  Only church members may enter the Temple.  The Mormon Tabernacle Choir began with a small Choir in 1847, twenty-nine days after the first Latter-day Saint pioneers entered the Salt Lake Valley.  Today the choir has 360 members.  The Choir’s first radio broadcast took place in 1929.  Today their broadcast is the longest running continual network broadcast in the world.

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Mormon Assembly Hall

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Domed Tabernacle Choir Building

IMG_0949We also drove by a small park wedged between two apartment buildings where we found the Mormon Pioneer Memorial park where Brigham Young and several members of his family are buried.  We were surprised to find Young’s grave in such a plain, isolated park not far from the capitol building. Young died in 1877.IMG_0953IMG_0950

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Eagle Gate

On the way to the capitol we passed under the 4,000 pound bronze eagle with a wingspan of 20 feet atop Eagle Gate.  The structure was erected in 1859 and at one time marked the entrance to Brigham Young’s farm.

Unfortunately Salt Lake City has the worst panhandling problem we have seen in our travels.  There are a large number of tourists in the Temple Square area and they are targets of the panhandlers.  While I was waiting for Bill in the lobby of the Family History Library, a lady came in complaining about a panhandler.  Security was called and from what I overheard, it is an ongoing problem with security called almost daily.  Bill and I were approached twice, once when leaving the library and in the parking lot two blocks from the library. Too bad Salt Lake City cannot solve this problem because it is such a turn-off for tourists in an otherwise beautiful city.

Like many cities, Salt Lake City does not have enough parking downtown and what they do have is pretty expensive.  One of the volunteers at the library gave us directions to a parking lot just a couple blocks from the library where the parking was only $1.00 an hour.  We were really glad to find that jewel!

Utah facts:

  • Seven national parks, 45 state parks, 6 national monuments, 8 national forests, 14 ski resorts
  • Population of 2,942,902
  • Symbol is the beehive representing thrift and industry
  • Origin of name is from the Native American Indian Tribe, the Utes

August 2, 2015 Arco, Idaho

IMG_0831It was a long travel day from West Yellowstone to Arco, Idaho with a stop along the way at the Walmart in Idaho Falls to restock supplies.  Arco is a tiny town with a population of 995 and was the first community in the world to be lit by electricity generated by nuclear power.  This occurred on July 17, 1955.  The area is nothing but sagebrush and open fields and the campground selection is very limited so we settled in at a KOA. The local high school paints their graduation year on the rocks above the city.IMG_0829IMG_0832

IMG_0828Our main reason for coming to this desolate area of Idaho was to visit the 750,000 acre Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve located eighteen miles southwest of Arco.  In 1924 President Calvin Coolidge used the 1906 Antiquities Act to proclaim the Craters of the Moon National Monument.  In 1923 geologist Harold T. Stearns described the area as “the surface of the moon as seen through a telescope…. where dark craters and the cold lava were nearly destitute of vegetation”.

IMG_0788While lava flows exist on the moon, astronauts confirmed that most lunar craters resulted from meteorite impacts, not from volcanoes.  But the Craters of the Moon are definitely of volcanic origin.  The vast amount of lava did not come from one volcano but from a series of deep fissures, known as the Great Rift, that cross the Snake River Plain.  Beginning 15,000 years ago lava welled up from the Great Rift to produce this vast area of rock.  The most recent eruption occurred 2,000 years ago and geologists believe future eruptions are likely.IMG_0789IMG_0790IMG_0794IMG_0795IMG_0826IMG_0827

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Satellite view of the lava flows

Years ago the Northern Shoshone Indians passed through this area on their annual migration from the Snake River to the Camas Prairie.  They left behind well worn trails and mysterious stone circles on top of the lava.  Archeological evidence and oral traditions indicate the Shoshones most likely witnessed some volcanic eruptions.

Craters of the Moon can be seen by satellite and we noticed it shows up on the local TV weather maps when we watch the weather.

In the 1800’s European-Americans in search of gold and farmland avoided the lava fields.  In the 1850s and 1860s pioneers followed the Goodale’s Cutoff of the Oregon Trail as an alternate route to avoid conflicts with the Shoshones and crossed through the northern edge of the lava fields.  Idaho was part of the Oregon Territory then.  In 1863 it became the Idaho Territory and a state in 1890.

In 1969 NASA Apollo astronauts learned about volcanic geology here in preparation for their moon missions.

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Splatter cone

After stopping by the Visitors Center we drove the Craters of the Moon Loop Road, stopping at various places along the route.  The final stop had a trail across the lava that led to several lava tubes or caves.  Entering the caves required some tricky rock scrambling so I was happy to leave the cave exploring to Bill.

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Indian Tunnel

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Indian Tunnel

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Indian Tunnel

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Indian Tunnel

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Boy Scout Cave looking deep

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Entrance to Beauty Cave

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Beauty Cave

IMG_0833Also while in Arco we drove to see the Experimental Breeder Reactor #1 (known as EBR-1) at the Idaho National Laboratory.  On December 20, 1951 the reactor became the first nuclear reactor to generate a usable amount of electricity using atomic energy.  From that day until the day it was decommissioned in 1964, EBR-1 generated enough electricity to supply all the power for its own building whenever the reactor operated.

We took a guided tour through the building which explained how atomic energy is used to make electricity.  We had an excellent guide, a University of Idaho graduate student in psychology from the Ukraine.  We were surprised she didn’t have a degree in nuclear engineering.  There wasn’t a question asked she couldn’t answer in detail.IMG_0838IMG_0840

President Lyndon Johnson visited the site in 1966 during a ceremony dedicating EBR-1 as a registered National Historic Landmark.

Among many things our guide told us was that the nuclear waste materials from the Three Mile Island accident site was brought to Idaho to be stored.  It was often brought across the country by train in darkness because of protests by people in states who did not want the waste passing through their states, with some states forbidding the passage.

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Physicist Enrico Fermi was the genius behind the “breeder” concept, but Walter Zinn made it a reality.

The Idaho National Laboratory currently employs more than 8,000 people.IMG_0843

Who knew this desolate area of Idaho could hold such fascinating places!