Category Archives: Exploring

Exploring

Brigham City, UT May 26, 2020

Leaving Provo we drove 100 miles north to Brigham City, Utah pop 19,000. Brigham City is much smaller than Provo or Salt Lake City and we enjoyed the small town feeling of the city. Brigham City was named in 1877 for Brigham Young who delivered his last public address there in 1877.  IMG_20200531_121100

Bill and I felt comfortable enough there to both get haircuts which we really needed. 

We were there for a week and enjoyed touring the area. One day we drove 32 miles to Corinne where we visited the Golden Spike National Historic Site.  IMG_20200527_124309IMG_20200527_125511It was here at Promontory Summit that the Union Pacific (UP) and Central Pacific (CP) rails converged to form the nation’s first transcontinental railroad on May 10, 1869. A golden spike and three other precious metal spikes were placed to commemorate the occasion. Those spikes were then removed and replaced by a regular wooden tie secured to the rail with iron spikes to officially complete the railroad.  IMG_20200527_131556~2

It had taken six million spikes and six years of hard work to complete the railroad. At times distracted by the Civil War, facing rough terrain and raids by Sioux and Cheyenne, they managed to get the job completed. Eight flatcars of material was needed for each mile of track and every rail, spike and locomotive had to be shipped 15,000 miles around Cape Horn. What a logistical nightmare! With the help of unemployed Irish, German and Italian immigrants, Civil War veterans, ex slaves and Native Americans, a total of 8,000 to 10,000 workers laid two to five miles of track a day on flat land. 

The Pacific Railroad Act of 1862 mandated that only American made iron could be used. The demand for iron for building the railroad helped boost the domestic economy. By the 1870’s the iron rail was replaced with sturdy steel rail which had become more widely available after the Civil War. 

Congress authorized Central Pacific to build a railroad eastward from Sacramento and at the same time chartered the Union Pacific in New York to go westward. Due to a lack of precise instructions from Congress as to where the rails should meet and financial rewards for building the railroad, the two railroads prepared rail-beds parallel to each other for 250 miles.  IMG_20200527_130738IMG_20200527_130845

Each railroad received loan subsidies of $16,000 to $48,000 per mile depending on the difficulty of the terrain. Once it was determined the rail-beds were parallel, the railroads were ordered to unite the track. No railroad tracks were ever laid on the parallel beds. Promontory Summit was then chosen as the point to join the tracks. IMG_20200527_140209IMG_20200527_140231big trestle~2

Central Pacific (CP) laid 690 miles of track and Union Pacific (UP) 1,086 miles of track across desert, rivers and mountains to unite the east and west coast with 1,776 miles of rail. This brought big changes to the country. People were now able to travel cross country, there were new opportunities for commerce and it opened up settlement in California, Colorado, Nebraska, Nevada, Wyoming and Utah. What had once been a six month journey was now just a week. The prairie schooner was replaced by a railroad coach with all its comforts.  

Legislation also called for a telegraph line to be strung along the transcontinental route to bring in a new era of instant communication from coast to coast. When word went out by telegraph in May, 1869 that the railroad and telegraph were completed, Americans celebrated in city after city with church bells ringing, cannons firing, parades, prayers, and singing of the “Star-Spangled Banner”. IMG_20200527_131958

Due to the pandemic we were disappointed that the Visitors Center and theater was closed. The working replicas of the 1869 steam locomotives named “119” (Union Pacific”and “Jupiter” (Central Pacific) were in storage and not in view. Last year on the 150th anniversary they were placed nose to nose.

We were able to drive the two mile East Auto tour which followed old railroad grades and showed the parallel grading completed by the railroad companies.  IMG_20200527_135216IMG_20200527_135001~2IMG_20200527_135011~2

We saw the Chinese Arch formed by waves crashing against the ancient shore 300 million years ago which eroded the rock. It is believed it was given the name Chinese Arch in recognition of the presence and contribution made by the Chinese who worked on the railroad. IMG_20200527_135415~2

On the way home we stopped by the Northrop Grumman Innovation Systems Rocket Garden. The garden displays rockets and missiles built from the 1950’s to the 2000’s. IMG_20200527_144045~2

One of the rockets is a shuttle booster that took the spaceship with its astronauts to a speed of 17,4000 miles per second. There is also a Minuteman intercontinental ballistic missile, a Maverick air to ground missile designed to be launched from Black Hawk helicopters and an Atlas rocket motor just to name a few of the 39 exhibits.  IMG_20200527_143411IMG_20200527_142248

Patriot missiles are a long-range, all-altitude, all-weather air defence system to counter tactical ballistic missiles, cruise missiles and advanced aircraft.  IMG_20200527_143503~2

On another day we drove over an hour on the Logan Canyon National Scenic Byway to beautiful Bear Lake. Often called “The Caribbean of the Rockies” because of its intense turquoise blue water, the color of the lake comes from limestone that has calcium in it. IMG_20200531_141230

The calcium, like millions of microscopic mirrors, reflects light from the sky. Bear Lake changes color depending on the weather, wind and time of day. It is believed Bear Lake formed 455,000 years ago. From 1350-1850, thousands of years Native Americans such as the Shoshoni, Ute and Bannock tribes lived in Bear Valley. Bear Lake was discovered in 1812 by trappers returning home from Astori, Oregon. The valley became an important fur trade center. Most of the settlers came from Britain. IMG_20200531_141610IMG_20200531_143951

We enjoyed driving around part of Bear Lake on the Oregon Trail Bear Lake Scenic Byway. Bear Lake is so big it is located in both Utah and Idaho. IMG_20200531_160505IMG_20200531_150836IMG_20200531_153547IMG_20200531_153617

After six weeks in beautiful Utah it is time to move on. IMG_20200531_172629

Next up: Twin Falls, Idaho

Provo, Utah May 20, 2020

We left Panguitch a day late due to high winds with gusts of 55+ mph forecast for the area. We had to drive back over the pass towards Salt Lake City and didn’t want to do that with extreme winds. 

Our next stop was in Provo, pop 119,000 about 45 miles south of Salt Lake City. We were once again treated to beautiful views of snow capped mountains. The first thing we noticed at the campground was all the green trees and grass. After being in southwest Arizona for so long, we had forgotten the sights and smells of green trees and freshly cut grass. IMG_20200520_155442IMG_20200520_155603IMG_20200520_155630

We also noticed tiny white seeds falling from the cottonwood trees. If it had been winter we would have thought it was snow flurries. After an especially windy day the ground was covered in cotton seeds that looked like snow. We learned that this shedding of the cottonwood seeds occurs in late spring and early fall. In the past Bill and I have both had allergies from the cottonwood trees in Arizona. Thankfully this time they didn’t bother us.  IMG_20200526_102720IMG_20200526_102725IMG_20200526_102749

During our time in Provo the weather was very chilly with nighttime lows in the 30’s.

Utah continued to be under a yellow advisory and we were still careful and wore masks when going to the grocery store. Other than grocery shopping we stayed away from stores and public areas. 

When we planned our summer travels last fall we planned to visit the Utah state capitol building in nearby Salt Lake City. When we were in Salt Lake City five years ago we drove by the outside of the capitol but didn’t take the time to tour the inside. Unfortunately, this time the building was closed to the public due to the pandemic. IMG_20200525_132239-EFFECTS

We did manage to visit Bridal Veil Falls, a short drive from the campground. It was a beautiful drive with the snow capped mountains around us. The falls is a beautiful natural 607 foot tall double waterfall in Provo Canyon along the Provo River. In 1961, a tram was built, supposedly one of the steepest in the world which took visitors to the top of the falls. The tram was destroyed in an avalanche in 1996 and was never repaired. Such a shame as that would have really been fun to ride! IMG_20200523_142650IMG_20200523_142641

One afternoon we drove around the campus of Brigham Young University in Provo. Opened in 1877 and with a 634 acre campus, it is one of the largest church related private universities in the country.  IMG_20200523_144655

We saw the 112 foot Centennial Carillon Tower where 52 bells ring at intervals during the day. The university was closed and the campus empty due to the pandemic.  IMG_20200523_150848-EFFECTS

Next door to our campground was an interesting area with antique gas station signs. IMG_20200523_135622IMG_20200523_135812IMG_20200523_135838IMG_20200523_135933IMG_20200523_140056_MP

We even saw Elvis and Marilyn! IMG_20200523_135858

Next up: Brigham City, our last stop in Utah

 

Bryce Canyon N.P. May 8, 2020

We left Cedar City, Utah and traveled north on Interstate 15, still during the isolation rules of COVID-19 Pandemic. Since it was a short distance and we would be traveling over a steep pass, we decided I would follow behind in the car rather than towing. Look! There is Bill ahead of me with snow capped mountains in the distance. IMG_20200506_125325

We arrived at our campground near the tiny town of Panguitch, Utah. Its claim to fame is Butch Cassidy was born just down the road. Butch Cassidy and his gang once had their photograph taken in Panguitch. We last camped here in late August, 2015.  It is a no frills and very reasonably priced campground. We settled in for a two week stay. The first few days the temperatures were perfect during the day but too cold at night. One night the temperature got down to 21 degrees! We left the faucet dripping during the night and fortunately had no problems. 

Since our last visit here in 2015 we had been anxious to visit Bryce Canyon NP again. Of the five national parks in Utah, this was our favorite. While many Utah national parks remained closed, because of the virus, we were very fortunate to have Bryce reopen with some restrictions. The Visitors Center, most restrooms and most trails were closed. 

On Friday we made the 25 mile drive from our campground to Bryce Canyon. To get to Bryce Canyon we drove on Highway 12, The All American Road. We passed through Red Canyon, part of Dixie National Forest with its beautiful red sandstone and limestone formations and through two tunnels. IMG_20200508_140026IMG_20200508_140439IMG_20200515_162353-EFFECTSIMG_20200508_142051

The fee booth at the park entrance was not manned but they had maps and park information available. 

Our goal today was to do the eighteen mile scenic drive and stop at the fourteen overlooks. Bryce Canyon isn’t really a canyon but a plateau with a series of horseshoe shaped amphitheaters carved in the edges of the eroding plateau.  Bryce Canyon was settled by Mormon pioneers in the 1850’s and is named for Ebenezer Bryce, a Mormon settler who homesteaded the area in 1874. It became a national park in 1928.

Some viewpoints could be seen from the road while others required short walks, usually on paved walkways. The views were all amazing. Our favorite was the many hoodoos, which are towering rock formations sculptured over time by ice freezing and thawing, some as much as ten stories tall.  There are approximately 200 days of freezing/thawing at Bryce Canyon each year.  IMG_20200508_152548

It was fun to let our imaginations run wild and imagine faces or figures in the formations.  The Paiutes, original inhabitants of the area, believed that the rock figures were people turned to stone by angry gods.  If you look closely you can also see fairy tale castle formations. Iron oxide gives red, yellow and brown tints to the limestone. IMG_20200508_145640

One overlook was at 9,100 feet and it was very chilly. The number of tourists was low and it was nice to be able to drive through the park with very little traffic and no crowds at the overlooks. IMG_20200508_145744IMG_20200508_150116IMG_20200508_150148IMG_20200508_150238IMG_20200508_150314IMG_20200508_150443IMG_20200508_152218IMG_20200508_153110IMG_20200508_153217IMG_20200508_153235IMG_20200508_153320IMG_20200508_154015IMG_20200508_154043IMG_20200508_154144IMG_20200508_160624IMG_20200508_161030IMG_20200508_162234

The following Friday we went back to the park. This time there was a person at the fee booth with the window closed, not taking fees but handing out information through a slot. Unlike the previous Friday the Visitors Center was open with limited capacity but the theater was closed. We wanted to see the informative movie about the park we remembered from 2015, but since the theater was closed we didn’t stop. IMG_20200515_141150IMG_20200515_141200IMG_20200515_141606IMG_20200515_141611IMG_20200515_144258IMG_20200515_144434

There was more traffic than the previous Friday. We passed by the prairie dog natural habitat area with signs warning of wildlife crossings. A prairie dog ran out in front of us and we stopped. He ran to the center of the two lane road, got confused and stopped. He then ran toward our car. We were unable to move until he moved to one side or the other. An impatient driver behind us honked his horn, and when we didn’t move, he zoomed past us on our right hand side. Not knowing where the prairie dog was we held our breath that he didn’t get hit. Usually when somebody does something irresponsible like this there are no police around to see it. But fortunately there was a Ranger headed in the opposite direction and saw what happened. He made a u-turn, turned on his lights and pulled the driver over. The Ranger looked pretty annoyed when he stepped out of his car. I never can understand why people come to places like national parks and are so impatient and in such a hurry. As for the prairie dog, he ran to the side of the road and lived happily ever after! IMG_20200508_163834IMG_20200508_164532

Our main focus today was to walk the rim trail along the top of the canyon. When we were here five years ago we made the arduous hike on the Navajo Trail down into the canyon. On this day the Navajo Trail was closed indefinitely due to severe damage from winter weather. We talked with a Ranger who said they were going to have to call in a geologist for advice on how best to repair the popular trail. IMG_20200515_151127IMG_20200515_151140IMG_20200515_154702IMG_20200515_154944IMG_20200515_155054IMG_20200515_153837

Our last days in Panguitch were very windy with gusts up to 45+ mph. We delayed leaving by one day because of the windy conditions since we would have to go back over the pass on the way to our next destination. Most of Utah is now open for business but physical distance and masks are required.

Next up: Provo, Utah

Kaohsiung, Taiwan FEB 4, 2020

And so the trouble began… . When we left Hong Kong we were scheduled to visit Manila in the Philippines. We sailed south all night and all the next day. Still in the South China Sea, the seas were very rough during the day. The dishes were clattering on the tables in the dining room at breakfast. Bill was fine but I had to double my motion sickness medication. People were getting seasick medication at Guest Services. I spent the day lying on the bed trying to sleep and ignore my queasy stomach. I started to feel better at dinnertime as the seas calmed. 

In the afternoon everyone had to report to the main stage to have our temperatures taken, a requirement of the Philippines government. Everyone passed and we were all set. We were looking forward to our private excursion the next day which was a tour titled “Manila: Old and New”. 

Just as we sat down to dinner, we heard the ship-wide DING DONG chimes which always announced the captain was about to speak. Usually we heard the chimes daily at noon as the captain announced our current location, speed and weather conditions. But this time it was not a weather report. It was bad news. In the days ahead we would come to dread those ding dong chimes!

This time the captain announced the president of the Philippines had denied us admission into the country. The denial was because the ship had docked in Hong Kong and was now “compromised”. 

The captain cheerfully announced he had secured a berth for the ship at a new port in Hualien Taiwan and we would enjoy two days there. The ship turned away from the Philippines and headed north towards Hualien. IMG_20200203_123317

Once again we sailed all night and day. The next night just before dinner we heard once again the dreaded chimes. The captain announced that Hualien had denied us entry because it was a very small port and they were ill-equipped to handle the necessary screening. We were now sailing to Kaohsiung, Taiwan where the captain had secured a berth for two nights. Originally the cruise was to stay nine hours at this port. At this point Bill and I started calling it “The Cruise to Nowhere”. 

The next morning we docked in Kaohsiung, which is Taiwan’s largest port and second largest city. Every passenger had to pass through Immigration and a temperature check. We made it through immigration and headed out to explore Kaohsiung. It was good to be on land again! IMG_20200204_104609

We had become acquainted with a very nice couple on the ship and we decided the four of us would explore the area together. We started walking and must have looked a little confused or lost because a lovely family enjoying the nice weather asked if we needed help. IMG_20200204_125351

After some discussion they suggested we take a taxi to the Dream Mall. Opened in 2007, it is the largest shopping mall in Taiwan and the 15th largest in East Asia. 

But first we walked to a nearby pier shopping complex, mainly looking for souvenirs. We did find some Chinese knock off Lego kits of American attractions. IMG_20200204_130615IMG_20200204_130622

Finding no souvenirs, we stopped at the information desk to see if they could exchange our large Taiwan dollars for smaller bills to pay for the taxi. After finishing that business we asked where to get a taxi. One of the workers called a taxi, walked us to the taxi pickup location and told the driver where we wanted to go. Very nice! IMG_20200204_151218IMG_20200204_151236IMG_20200204_151504IMG_20200204_134757

The seven floor mall was huge and we discovered malls around the world are pretty much all alike. The curved and automated entrance doors were pretty cool. IMG_20200204_144022IMG_20200204_144023

We walked around for a couple hours, finding no souvenirs and after stopping in several pharmacies we found no masks or hand sanitizer. We were so glad we had brought both from home.  And of course no visit is complete without a stop at McDonald’s in the mall for an Oreo McFlurry. The $55 Taiwan price was equal to $1.83 US. IMG_20200204_143618

Directly next to where the ship was parked was a carnival. We enjoyed seeing the colorful lights from the rides at night. IMG_20200204_153058IMG_20200204_205020IMG_20200204_205034IMG_20200205_134858

The next day we had booked an excursion in Kaohsiung to visit a large Buddhist Monastery. About 4:30 A.M. I got up to use the bathroom and noticed a letter had been slipped under our cabin door.  A letter arriving in the middle of the night probably wasn’t good news, and it wasn’t. The letter announced that the Taiwan officials had held an emergency meeting and decided we were not going to be allowed off the ship the second day. All excursions were canceled. IMG_20200205_134903IMG_20200205_134903aIMG_20200205_134911

At breakfast the dreaded ding dong chimes brought the announcement that we were also not welcome at our next port, Taipei, the capital of Taiwan. The captain said we would continue on to Ishigaki, Japan. At this point we could all see the writing on the wall. A hush fell over the ship. Little did we know how difficult the days ahead would become. 

Next up: A ship with no home!

Hong Kong, FEB 1, 2020

Originally we were supposed to be in Hong Kong for two days. Due to the corona virus and the fact that many tourist attractions were closed, the Holland America corporate office in Seattle made the decision to only be in port for one day, arriving at 6:00 A.M. and leaving at 5:00. I think the main reason Holland America stopped in Hong Kong was because some passengers were due to get off. They had only booked two weeks of the voyage. We also picked up passengers who were doing the final two weeks of the cruise. Our thirty day cruise was really two contiguous 15 day cruises. 

We got up earlier than usual to see the sail in to Hong Kong. The cruise ship terminal is on the mainland area known as Kowloon. Our excursion today is located on Hong Kong Island and is accessed by a tunnel under the harbor. IMG_20200201_060926IMG_20200201_060843IMG_20200201_072734IMG_20200201_111918IMG_20200201_113247IMG_20200201_160015_MPIMG_20200201_150127

While some were leaving the ship and new passengers embarking, we took a Holland America excursion in Hong Kong. Wearing our masks, we took the 45 minute bus ride from the pier into Hong Kong. Also included in the cost of the excursion was a ticket on the Hop On Hop Off bus, and transportation back to the ship. IMG_20200201_085356IMG_20200201_085932_MPIMG_20200201_085957_1_MPIMG_20200201_091404IMG_20200201_101005IMG_20200201_101047

We had heard so many things about Hong Kong and our expectations were high. We expected something similar to Singapore. We were sorely disappointed. We have ridden Hop On Hop Off buses in many places, including Singapore and many large cities throughout the United States. This was the worst Hop On Hop Off bus we have ever taken. Usually you hop on a bus, hop off when you want and then can catch another bus after a short wait. The Hong Kong buses ran a route and then waited 45 minutes before running the route again. We struggled to even find the stops and once we missed a stop we had to ride to the end of the line and wait 45 minutes to ride the route again. And it was miserably cold on the upper deck! In retrospect there were very few people moving around the city so The Hop On buses may have been on a reduced schedule for this reason. The big buses were empty except for cruise passengers. IMG_20200201_105631IMG_20200201_112457IMG_20200201_112806IMG_20200201_112833IMG_20200201_115152IMG_20200201_115207IMG_20200201_115322

Right before we arrived in Hong Kong the captain announced that because of the corona virus we would not be ending the cruise in Shanghai mainland China as planned. Instead we would be flying home from Tokyo. Bill spent part of his time in Hong Kong on the phone with American Airlines trying to change our flight. Little did we know it would be the first of many flight changes in the days to come. 

We got off and walked to the Hard Rock Cafe so Bill could add to his Hard Rock t-shirt collection. We stopped in several pharmacies looking for more hand sanitizer but every store was out of stock. At one little marketplace a woman was charging over $6 US for one of those tiny purse size bottles. I left in disgust. I had three bottles on the ship, I didn’t need it that bad. IMG_20200201_134201IMG_20200201_132132_MP

Hong Kong has many public toilets throughout the area. You had a choice between a toilet with a seat or a squat no seat stall. IMG_20200201_091301IMG_20200201_130421IMG_20200201_103735IMG_20200201_115833IMG_20200201_115834_MPIMG_20200201_130401

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The largest Man Mo Temple in Hong Kong, built in 1847

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From 1904 The Hong Kong Tramway Company Runs All Electric

The city was dirty with trash everywhere. I kept thinking how this would never be tolerated in Singapore.

There was a lot of Hong Kong we didn’t get to see. We didn’t have time to ride the Green or the Blue Lines of the Hop On Hop Off buses because we had to meet our bus back to the ship at 3:30. Between hunting for bus stops, waiting for buses, eating lunch, being on hold with American Airlines and looking for hand sanitizer, the day passed quickly and before long it was time to head back to the ship. On the positive side we saw absolutely no protesters even though it was a Saturday. Before leaving the United States we had worried a little about the Hong Kong protests which had been reported constantly on the news. Little did we know it would be a virus and not protests that impacted our visit. IMG_20200201_131230IMG_20200201_131240_MP

We may visit Hong Kong again but it is not high on our list of places to return. 

Next up: A stop in Taiwan and the beginning of the end.

 

Ha Long Bay, Vietnam JAN 30, 2020

We caught the sunrise from our Westerdam ship. IMG_20200130_064201-EFFECTSIMG_20200130_064406IMG_20200130_073058IMG_20200130_073220_MP

On our second day in Ha Long Bay we took a small boat cruise around the bay. The tour was on a converted fishing “junk boat”. We had to climb steep wooden steps to the scenic viewing area on top of the boat. I was a little nervous because the wooden floor of the upper deck felt very rickety and we could see in some places where the floor had fallen through. Junk boat was a perfect name! This is a sister junk boat that shows you what our boat looks like. IMG_20200130_093732_MPIMG_20200130_074519IMG_20200130_080234IMG_20200130_094306

We spent about five hours cruising Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We were not allowed to take any plastic water bottles on the boat for environmental reasons. Limestone islands with huge cliffs and arches rising from the misty water amid peaceful coves dotted the landscape. It was a very peaceful cruise and we enjoyed spending time talking with other Holland America passengers. IMG_20200130_074136IMG_20200130_074522

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Occasionally You See Individual Burial Sites


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We did see what was left of an old movie set. Several movies have been filmed in Ha Long Bay including “Kong: Skull Island” in 2017 and the James Bond movie “Tomorrow Never Dies” in 1997. IMG_20200130_074426

This concluded our time in Vietnam. We certainly enjoyed our time here. 

Next up: One day in Hong Kong 

 

Hanoi, Vietnam JAN 29, 2020

Our last stop in Vietnam was the port of Halong Bay. 

Our first day was most certainly a long one. We had a ten and a half hour excursion to Hanoi. Yes, ten and a half hours. The reason it was so long was because it takes two and a half hours to get to Hanoi from Halong Bay by bus. So round trip it is five hours on the bus! But first we had to get a Vietnam Landing Card which we had to present to Vietnamese immigration officials upon leaving the ship. IMG_20200129_074055

Along the way to Hanoi we saw field after field of rice paddies. IMG_20200129_083244

We also saw a main bridge into the city that had been heavily damaged during the war and rebuilt. It is still in use today. IMG_20200129_101429IMG_20200129_101633IMG_20200129_101754IMG_20200129_101821IMG_20200129_101958IMG_20200129_102013IMG_20200129_102911

Hanoi, with 6.5 million people, is the second largest city in Vietnam and the capital city. Located on the Red River, it was heavily bombed during the Vietnam War. During its turbulent history Vietnam has been attacked or ruled by the Chinese, Japanese and French. The strong French influence throughout Vietnam is seen in its architecture and food such as baguettes. 

We had a young male guide named Ang. Every guide we have had in Thailand and Vietnam has been male. Ang spoke and understood English very well. This is the Flag Tower of Hanoi built in 1812. IMG_20200129_140755_1

As we drove and walked through the streets it was interesting to see how the people lived and socialized. Hanoi seemed older and less modern than Saigon. Traffic was not quite as bad but we did see a T shirt in a souvenir shop that said “I Survived Hanoi Traffic”. IMG_20200129_121435

Another popular shirt in Vietnam for tourists is a traffic light laws with GREEN/YELLOW/RED and the three phrases: I can go, I can go, I still can go.

We saw “Grab” which is similar to our the ride-sharing Uber, except Grab uses a motor scooter, not a car. IMG_20200129_101946IMG_20200129_160254

Our guide took us on a walking tour of Ba Dinh Square in Old Hanoi with thirty-six narrow streets where pedestrians and motor scooters fight for space. We had noticed while in Saigon many tiny little tables and chairs sitting around outside stores and restaurants and surmised they were for small children. We were surprised to see adults sitting on these tiny seats eating their lunch. IMG_20200129_115001

Also taking up sidewalk space were motor scooters. With no place to park, they simply park on the sidewalks, leaving pedestrians to walk along the busy streets. Later at dinner a fellow passenger, who had taken this walk with another group, reported seeing a large dead rat in the street. IMG_20200129_121200IMG_20200129_121302IMG_20200129_122000

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Eleven Roosters Ready For Sale

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Several Chicken or Roosters Ready To Cook

We continued to be amazed at the huge mess of power lines throughout the city.  We couldn’t imagine attempting to repair these lines. The solution seems to be to leave the old bad wire in place and just put up new wire. IMG_20200129_121131

We saw familiar stores like Circle K, KFC, Burger King, New York Pizza, and of course McDonald’s. IMG_20200129_122822

This advertisement was outside a store. To put it in perspective:

  • 150,000 dong is $6.45 US
  • 250,000 dong is $10.75 US
  • and 220,000 dong is $9.46 US. IMG_20200129_121243

Ang was very proud of our next stop, the Temple of Literature. This is where Vietnam’s first university was built in 1070 and dedicated to Confucius. Since it was a holiday for the Chinese New Year, it was mobbed with people. Contrary to the name, we didn’t see any books! IMG_20200129_103536IMG_20200129_11020300000IMG_00000_BURST20200129110408240_COVERIMG_20200129_112148IMG_20200129_114841

After a five course lunch of traditional Vietnamese dishes at a local hotel, we went to the Ho Chi Minh Tomb and Presidential Palace area. IMG_20200129_150237IMG_20200129_150159

Ang spoke very reverently about Ho Chi Minh and what he did for the Vietnamese people. The tomb was huge with guards standing at attention. A line was drawn on the sidewalk and if anyone stepped across that line one of the guards would blow a whistle. Ang said Ho Chi Minh wanted to be cremated and his ashes spread throughout the countryside. But other leaders wanted him to have a big tomb like leaders in Russia. IMG_20200129_142032

We saw cars given by Russia to Ho Chi Minh and apparently Ho Chi Minh and others wanted to model their lives after Stalin and other Russian leaders. IMG_20200129_143917

We saw the Presidential Palace which Ho Chi Minh used as an office and when greeting foreign dignitaries. According to Ang, Ho Chi Minh refused to live in the palace, instead choosing to live in a smaller house nearby for three years. IMG_20200129_143003IMG_20200129_143420

Later in his life he lived in an even smaller more traditional Vietnamese house on stilts. Nearby was a bunker he could be taken to during an attack. IMG_20200129_144404

This small concrete green block house is where he was living when he died. IMG_20200129_144553

Unlike our guide in Saigon who was critical of life in Vietnam, Ang had nothing negative to say. 

It was a tiring day and a long ride back to the ship. But we were glad we saw this historic city we had read so much about during the Vietnam War years.

Here are some views we saw on our way back to Halong Bay. There were many people selling these fresh fruits by the bag.
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Halong Bay at night.
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After dinner we were passing through the Lido area to walk around outside and were greeted by a huge Chinese dragon who was visiting for the Chinese New Year. IMG_20200129_191936

Da Nang, Vietnam JAN 27, 2020

On our second day in Da Nang we decided to explore the city on our own. Our ship was docked at a busy shipping port. IMG_20200127_124410IMG_20200127_191203

The city offered a free shuttle bus to and from the port into the town. After breakfast we walked off the ship to the waiting bus for the 30 minute ride into the city. The bus conveniently ran every 20 minutes and dropped us off in the heart of the city. A welcome tent had been set up in the parking lot and we asked where the closest supermarket was located. They told us a ten minute walk and pointed us in the right direction. It wasn’t a bad walk except for crossing the busy streets which could be a harrowing experience with all the crazy motor scooters. Fortunately many streets had pedestrian crosswalks with lights telling us when to cross. We reminded ourselves, once you start across don’t stop even if you are scared. We learned not all motor scooters honor the crosswalks. Everyone is always in such a hurry. Some things are the same worldwide, aren’t they. IMG_20200127_111005~2IMG_20200127_111054~2IMG_20200127_111353~2IMG_20200127_112144~2

Since it was the third day of the Chinese New Year many shops were closed. We saw some children’s toys, including Barbie dolls for sale spread out on the sidewalk. IMG_20200127_101208

We enjoyed seeing the New Year decorations. Yellow flowers are a popular decoration as well as the color red. IMG_20200127_101507~2IMG_20200127_111026IMG_20200127_111059

We easily found the supermarket which was located in a shopping mall. IMG_20200127_102006IMG_20200127_102438IMG_20200127_102448IMG_20200127_102538

We took the escalator up to the supermarket entrance and got a shopping cart. Bill was stopped by a security guard because he had on a backpack. He had to go over to a young man and leave his backpack there and get a ticket like a coat check stand. We weren’t too concerned about leaving it since we didn’t have anything of much value inside. IMG_20200127_103339IMG_20200127_103717

We were looking for Coke for Bill, 7 Up or Sprite for me and bottled water. The water on the ship tastes really bad. We asked the ship’s restaurant manager about it and he said they make their own water using a process converting sea water. And believe me, it tastes like it. They also serve tea on the ship which is also pretty bad. No amount of sugar or sweetener helps the taste. The lemonade is actually not too bad though I get tired of it. My favorite is when they have strawberry kiwi or mango lemonade. Pretty good and it doesn’t seem to be affected by the bad tasting water. IMG_20200127_102715IMG_20200127_103219IMG_20200127_103227IMG_20200127_103243

They charge $3.50 for a bottle of drinking water and $2.50 for a soft drink can on the ship. At the supermarket we bought 24 bottles of Danasi drinking water, 12 bottles of Coke and twelve bottles of 7 Up for a total of 19,800 Vietnamese Dong or $5.80 US. It would have cost us $72 for the same amount of water and soft drinks on the ship. But to keep all this in perspective, the average Vietnamese worker gets paid equivalent to $200 US per month. So to them what we bought today for $5.80 US would have been a big splurge to them. 

Just to give you an idea:

  • Barilla pasta is 54,100 dong. That is equal to $2.33 US
  • A pack of Oreo cookies is 11,900 dong or $0.51
  • Lipton tea is 27,700 dong or $1.19
  • Danish butter cookies is 105,500 dong or $4.54

We didn’t take too many pictures while walking. We were too busy carrying all our bottles, dodging motor scooters and watching our footing on uneven sidewalks. We did take some pictures from the shuttle bus to share with you. 

We made our way back to the shuttle bus stop and there was a bus waiting to take us back to the ship. This lady has stopped in front of a decorated wall to check her phone. IMG_20200126_085733~2

On our way back we talked to a fellow passenger who had served two tours of duty in Vietnam. He had come back to see how it had changed. We have met several former servicemen on the ship doing the same thing. On the other hand we met a woman traveling alone. She said her husband had served in Vietnam and wasn’t ready to come back. She had always wanted to see the country so she traveled there alone. It sounded like her husband had suffered some permanent injuries while here. 

We saw Quonset huts remaining which had been part of a 1965 US  helicopter base. This hospital was built in 1966 and became the largest combat casualty hospital in Vietnam with nearly 600 beds. Today it is known as DaNang Hospital for Women and Children. IMG_20200126_124019~2IMG_20200126_124026~2

Sometimes we would see open fields used to grow rice – rice patties. IMG_20200126_092003

Because of the New Years holidays many and many fishing boats were docked. IMG_20200127IMG_20200127_111818IMG_20200127_111451

I will close by saying if you should ever doubt that you live in the best country in the world, you only need to come to this part of the world to see how truly blessed we are to be Americans! God Bless America! 

Hoi An, Vietnam JAN 26, 2020

This is a continuation of our Asian cruise blog entries before everything went crazy. We were delayed getting these done because of very limited internet on the ship as we wandered around in the South China Sea for 14 days. Most of the internet on the ship was taken by people either trying to make an airline reservation or trying to cancel one. Things constantly changed on a daily basis. But more on all that in a future blog post.

Sailing up the South China Sea, our next port of call was Da Nang, Vietnam, the fifth largest city in Vietnam. During the Vietnam War soldiers went to nearby My Khe, known as China Beach for rest and relaxation. China Beach was featured in the television show “China Beach” as well as the movie “Good Morning Vietnam”. We were in Da Nang for two nights, giving us time to explore the area. 

The first day we had booked an excursion through Holland America. Little did we know the excursion would bring an unfortunate experience. 

Our tour guide was Melin, who had broken English and understood English even worse than he spoke it. This caused him to have a confused expression on his face most of the time. 

Today’s main excursion was a five hour tour of Hoi An, located about an hour’s drive from the ship. Hoi An is a tiny riverside town that has remained unchanged for centuries. IMG_20200126_104410~2IMG_20200126_103836~2IMG_20200126_103844~2IMG_20200126_104126IMG_20200126_103803IMG_20200126_104033IMG_20200126_104403~2IMG_20200126_104959~2IMG_20200126_105051The town is made up of many narrow streets and our guide took us on a walking tour. IMG_20200126_094917IMG_20200126_095026IMG_20200126_103343Throngs of townspeople were out celebrating the second day of the Chinese New Year so the narrow streets were even more crowded than usual. IMG_20200126_094219IMG_20200126_094834IMG_20200126_094821IMG_20200126_095309

Add the presence of many motor scooters weaving through the crowd and it made for a nerve-wracking walking experience. I wonder how many people throughout Asia are killed by motor scooters. Even more shocking is to see three or four people, including babies and small children riding on these scooters. While we were told it is against the law to ride a scooter without a helmet, we saw many young children without them. IMG_20200126_100223IMG_20200126_101311IMG_20200126_103143~2IMG_20200126_095400IMG_20200126_102611~2IMG_20200126_104841

Early in our walking tour our guide stopped at an old Chinese school. While he was talking we heard a crash and a woman in our group had fainted. As she was helped to her feet, she fainted again. Thank heavens we had a retired nurse named Susan in our group and she stepped forward to help. Our tour guide looked panic stricken and helpless. After a few minutes it was suggested we all continue touring the area while they decided what to do about the lady. 

This really was a pretty little scenic town and the New Year decorations and festive dressed locals added to the charm. IMG_20200126_100302~2IMG_20200126_103103IMG_20200126_095436IMG_20200126_103156At one point a  friendly older Vietnamese gentleman stopped Bill and asked if he was American. He proudly told Bill he had once been a captain in the South Vietnamese army. IMG_20200126_102415

We learned the ill lady and her husband had been put into a rickshaw and taken back to the bus to rest until we all returned. IMG_20200126_093606IMG_20200126_103423~2Nurse Susan suggested three times she should abandon the tour and take a taxi back to the ship where she could see the ship’s doctor. She refused. 

After our long walking tour in the heat we were more than happy to sit down in the coolness of the bus. Minutes after leaving Hoi An and heading to our next destination, the lady became very ill.  Susan jumped from her seat and checked the lady and told the guide we needed to get to a hospital NOW! The guide panicked and started shouting at the driver in Vietnamese. Somehow the bus driver managed to turn the large bus around and we flew through the narrow streets with the horn blaring as motor scooters scrambled out of the way. Three miles later we pulled up to a very small hospital. IMG_20200126_114850~2The lady was removed from the bus along with her husband and Susan. We all felt really bad leaving them behind where language is such a problem and medical procedures are very different. Hopefully Susan will make her way back to the ship and the lady will be okay. I don’t know what we would have done without that Susan. What an angel she was. 

This left us all shaken and pretty much just wanting to get back to the ship, but we did stop at famous China Beach for a photo opportunity. IMG_20200126_125002IMG_20200126_125059~2IMG_20200126_125026

In the distance on the hillside was Lady Buddha Da Nang, the tallest Buddha statue in Vietnam. IMG_20200126_130634~2

We also stopped at Marble Mountain where they carve large figures out of marble. The hit of this stop was the gift shop where we could all purchase cold soft drinks and bottles of water. IMG_20200126_121058

Next up: Our second day in Da Nang and a visit around town 

Last minute update: We saw Susan the next day and she reported the lady is doing well. She was diagnosed with severe dehydration which caused problems with her diabetes. After being pumped with fluids for an hour she felt better and after five hours they were all able to take a taxi back to the ship (an hour away) where she was seen by the ship’s doctor. Susan said being at the hospital was very difficult because the staff were operating on a skeleton crew since it was a holiday and also because no one spoke English. They finally located someone who spoke a little English. We were so glad to hear the lady is doing well! We actually saw her several times much later around the ship. She was so fortunate! 

Lost in Saigon, Vietnam JAN 23, 2020 Part 2

The next stop was the former South Vietnamese Presidential Palace, now called Reunification Hall or Independence Palace. It was here on April 30,1975 the North Vietnamese burst through the gates in tanks, signaling the end of the Vietnam War. IMG_20200123_100347IMG_20200123_100309IMG_20200123_101127

We had to climb many steps inside and it was stifling hot in the  unairconditioned building. At 95 degrees, I was close to becoming overwhelmed by the heat. Inside were reception and dining rooms, the President’s private quarters and in the basement the old American made telecommunications equipment and strategic military maps still in place. IMG_20200123_100854~2IMG_20200123_101007IMG_20200123_101440IMG_20200123_101447IMG_20200123_101525IMG_20200123_101653IMG_20200123_102816IMG_20200123_102607_MP

Regardless of how hot and tired we were we had one more stop before lunch. This was at the History Museum with a collection of artifacts illustrating the evolution of the cultures of Vietnam. We did find a small gift shop where we were able to buy soft drinks which we quickly drank down in several gulps. IMG_20200123_105554IMG_20200123_111455IMG_20200123_125157

It was now time for lunch and we were all more than ready, more from the need to rest in air conditioning rather than from hunger. We had lunch at a very nice five star restaurant with a buffet of Vietnamese delicacies.

When we went to the Happy Room we noticed a Smoking Room. We saw these at the Tokyo Airport and other places in Asia. If the cigarettes don’t kill you, the second hand smoke surely will! IMG_20200123_125126

Next we stopped at a lacquer ware workshop to see how they make the beautiful lacquer based paintings and other objects. They actually use pieces of egg shells to color the paintings.IMG_20200123_133152IMG_20200123_133630IMG_20200123_133812

Finally to finish the day we drove by the beautiful Notre Dame Cathedral dating back to the 19th century and stopped at the post office with its lovely architecture. IMG_20200123_142155~2IMG_20200123_142536

On the drive today Tony shared with us some of his thoughts on Vietnam. He said the government is very corrupt with lots of bribes. The people have to work very hard for an average salary of equivalent to $200 a month. The suicide rate among young people is very high. Alcohol and drug problems are widespread. He said there is a very large discrepancy between those who are wealthy and those who have nothing. While Vietnam has McDonald’s and Starbucks and KFC, most of the people have no money to pay for such things. There is no Social Security, no Medicare. He said the Vietnamese people love Americans and he named all the U.S. presidents who have visited and how many times they have visited. Around two thirds of the Vietnamese people living today have been born since the war was over in 1975. IMG_20200123_144853IMG_20200123_145212~2IMG_20200123_145502

The lights here have timers to tell you when they are going to change.

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After an hour drive back to the ship we were once again greeted with the much appreciated cold towels and lemonade. We rested for an hour before going out on the deck to see a special Vietnamese dragon dance put on for us by a group of thirty young men. A sort of thank you for visiting, please come back again farewell. After their performances they sat patiently on the pavement and waited for us to leave. The ship was delayed almost thirty minutes leaving as we waiting to clear Vietnam customs. As we finally began to pull away from the dock, the young men jumped up and began to dance again and wave goodbye. A lovely farewell to our first stop in Vietnam. IMG_20200123_173020IMG_20200123_173138IMG_20200123_173419IMG_20200123_173640IMG_20200123_173743IMG_20200123_173700IMG_20200123_175100